I am prepping the frame to the new rig and was wondering what is everyone coating theres with thats durable and smooth, paint? or ?

I plan to do mine with POR 15......

por 15 is great, but Hammerite is also good.. Hammerite will save a few $$$. Por is just a lil more expiensive.

Ive sprayed Hammerite out of a gun, works great...

POR 15 can also be sprayed, the only thing is its extremly bad for the lungs, not that hammerite id good for ya.. :D

http://eastwoodcompany.com

this is what i plan on using part #10072z 4 aersol cans of chasis black and 2 pints corroless. $59.99

corroless chemically converts rust to a more stable form the surface is completely sealed by a unique interlocking glass leaf system

says minimal prep should be free of oil and grease and wire brush to remove the loose stuff corroless can be sprayed or rolled on it's reddish brown

eastwood is a great paint catalog

Have it galvanized and have your great grand kids worry about the rust :)


Ron

I use zero rust its grate

http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL50/469498/590188/7112651.jpg

]http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL50/469498/590188/7112679.jpg

I read of a study that proved that proved zero rust is better then pro 15 in


www.zerorust.com

its grate:rolleyes:

Originally posted by ironpig70
[B]this is what i plan on using part #10072z 4 aersol cans of chasis black and 2 pints corroless. $59.99


That's what I used and turned out really nice. Been doing touch-ups with Hammerite though. Highly recommend the Corroless, but the final paint I could go either way... Chassis Black or Hammerite.

There's always the powder coating option too.

Thanks you guys. I think I will order the Eastwood gloss black chassis restore kit for myself. Gotta be able to wax the show rig *BLING-BLING*. J/K but I like the idea of it wiping smooth and clean after wheeling, and I already started with the axle housings in gloss black.Thanks again for the advice


P.S. I know I know I am posing as my gal only cause Im too drunk to change it and Im tired:flipoff2:

i use $0.88 a can cheap stuff from wal-fart. it is just going to get jacked up after a few outings anyway so why spend $$$ to do it. plus a can of touch up paint is cheap too:D

Originally posted by high5
i use $0.88 a can cheap stuff from wal-fart. it is just going to get jacked up after a few outings anyway so why spend $$$ to do it. plus a can of touch up paint is cheap too:D

I have learned my lesson about cheap paintjobs...Go with the good stuff (rustoleum) there is more pigment so it covers better. I get the big cans and heat them with a salamander for a real nice fog... : )
There was a time when I painted my frame with a spray gun and did a real nice job, now I just squirt it, and call it good, I am always adding a bracket or cutting one off.

have it powercoated. Hell, there are some cool looking colors now a days!

Thanks, Chief Yelling Alot, for bringing Zero Rust into the discussion AND providing the excellent pics illustrating the look ZR provides.
Guys, when you do your comparison of products to use, include these questions:
Available in Aerosols or bulk? And at Aerosol (black) = $7 & Gallon =$51?
Does it contain Isocyanates which require a fresh air supplied suit to apply safely? Does it offer 2000+ hour salt spray cabinet test results? Is it easily repaired if I ding it up climbing rocks...? Does the label CLEARLY indicate the actual solids contents of the product (ZR is 50+%)? Can it be easily topcoated without taking another step or applying another product ? Does it give an OEM look when I apply it or do I have to topcoat it to obtain that look? All are valid questions for a user to consider and when you do, I venture that you too will want to at least consider Zero Rust as a very viable alternative.
The "results" of the comparison the Chief refers to can be found at: http://zerorust.com/aubodystorepics.htm or go to Len Stuart's www.autobodystore.com and ask Len to repost his study results.
HTH
WK Irish

Originally posted by WK Irish
Thanks, Chief Yelling Alot, for bringing Zero Rust into the discussion AND providing the excellent pics illustrating the look ZR provides.
Guys, when you do your comparison of products to use, include these questions:
Available in Aerosols or bulk? And at Aerosol (black) = $7 & Gallon =$51?
Does it contain Isocyanates which require a fresh air supplied suit to apply safely? Does it offer 2000+ hour salt spray cabinet test results? Is it easily repaired if I ding it up climbing rocks...? Does the label CLEARLY indicate the actual solids contents of the product (ZR is 50+%)? Can it be easily topcoated without taking another step or applying another product ? Does it give an OEM look when I apply it or do I have to topcoat it to obtain that look? All are valid questions for a user to consider and when you do, I venture that you too will want to at least consider Zero Rust as a very viable alternative.
The "results" of the comparison the Chief refers to can be found at: http://zerorust.com/aubodystorepics.htm or go to Len Stuart's www.autobodystore.com and ask Len to repost his study results.
HTH
WK Irish

NICE SPAM NEWBIE! :mad3: :mad3: We don't care for SPAM much around here, and your first post is a facking truck load !

I read of a study that proved that proved zero rust is better then pro 15 in

Bwa ha ha ha...good one :D

I sure hope that's a joke ! :flipoff2:

That's like saying "I read Ford is better than Chevy at www.ford.com

What a laugh:rolleyes:

congrats:flipoff2:

i spent the money on por 15 and would consider myself ripped off. it wasnt worth the money, and definitely dont use it on the axles, it just peel off. i like to use the paintable ruberized undercoating you can buy anywere, it lasts longer applies easier and is cheaper. my opinion is por 15 sucks. i live in a climate were they salt the shit out of roads, maybe por 15 doesnt like salt. didnt even last 1 year for me

Originally posted by yjtj
i spent the money on por 15 and would consider myself ripped off. it wasnt worth the money, and definitely dont use it on the axles, it just peel off. i like to use the paintable ruberized undercoating you can buy anywere, it lasts longer applies easier and is cheaper. my opinion is por 15 sucks. i live in a climate were they salt the shit out of roads, maybe por 15 doesnt like salt. didnt even last 1 year for me

so you don't like spam huh??

I heard it tastes like chicken

and chicken is grate!! in my bwook inmy bwook...

Originally posted by dirtrod
SNIP ... I have learned my lesson about cheap paintjobs...Go with the good stuff (rustoleum) there is more pigment so it covers better. I get the big cans and heat them with a salamander for a real nice fog... : )
What's a Salamander:confused: I don't have an airless gun and wouldn't now how to pull it off anywho. I am rattle-can man! :rasta::D

Well I got impatient and used Rustolium proffessional gloss black. It comes in a tall silver can from Lowes and it adheres really well.If you let it dry for a week it is very tough stuff.

hey wheelinjp

I'll have ya know hte electricity is working fine still

thanks!!! agian...



:beer: