That's were I was contemplating putting it. Easy for anyone to reach. :D
By the way that F-toy you guys built is :smokin:

Attention F-toy owners! Were did you mount your battery master switch? I thought I remember seeing somewhere that the switch has to be easily accessable from the outside. Is that true?

I read that too when I built mine. I thought I saw it in the CalRocs Rulebook. It's less specific as it currently states.
Here is what it says under the CalRocs 2005 Modified Stock Class:



4.10.4: A “Master” kill switch that shuts down every electrical system is required to be mounted on the dash, clearly labeled and in proper working order. This switch must kill the engine when switched to the “off” position

When wiring your master switch, make sure to put the output of the alt and the battery on one side of the switch and everything else on the other side.

Jesse,
Is this thing done yet? It seams like a year ago since we last wheeled together. (Not including the Fordyce trip we did in my rig last Oct) Wait, this month does make a year since it was rolled when we were at Niagara. Got to get that thing done. You’re missing out on this weekend’s trip :-( and things are starting to pick up for this summers runs. Swamp Lake, Fordyce and Rubicon are all coming up fast :-)

I did have a good time helping with the build a couple of weekends ago and would be more then happy to assist some more when you can get away from work. Just let me know.

Eli

Well it's been a while since I posted pics. of progress. So I'll get you up to speed.

She fired up today!!!!!! :smokin: :smokin:

It's not all over yet but, this was monumental.

I would like to thank the following people who helped out on the build weekend.
Steve - wiring master and chief technician
Eli - wiring, brakes, and everything in between
Robin - brakes
Brad - wiring master
Dean - great to have you there

So here are the pics.

First dash version didn't work out. Can't reach anything. Also realized that the gauges won't work because they are mechanical. :shaking:

Engine is wired and it works killer. Everything still has to be put in wire looms. :smokin:

Maste kill switch mounted so it can be reached.

:smokin: Brakes are run. Easy to reach and destroy prop. valve and line lock.

More brake craziness. :rolleyes:

Brake line run down the spring. :smokin:

Propane and engine wired. More pics. and description of this install to come.
Big thanks to Cary at GotPropane. Great guy and very helpful. Best service you could ask for. :smokin: :smokin:

More pics. of Propane. :smokin:

Can't get enough of it?

Tanks mounted. A big thanks to Dave for the FREE propane tanks and a free fill up! :smokin:

Custom header. :barf:

Flex tube. This was a major help :D

Exhaust all bent up. Thanks to Sherman of Air Support for the bender and notcher. :smokin:

Flowmaster's sound so good. :) I kinda like the go-fast angle. :flipoff2:

I hope that the muffler doesn't rub the tire too much. I also hope that the muffler is far enough away from the propane tanks. May have to make a heat shield.

nuther.

Center console. :flipoff2:

Tach mounted with roll pod. Also ordered matching roll pods for all the other gauges. :smokin: :smokin:

:smokin: Brakes are run. Easy to reach and destroy prop. valve and line lock.


i hope you put something thick to protect those switches...

i have slid all sorts of nobs across my side panels

Holy hydraulic hoses Batman :eek: Gonna have to come up with something else. This looks kinda horrific :shaking:

Mocked up fire wall to hang everything on. Gonna be replaced soon with the real one. Going to have the sheet metal professionally fabbed and installed by someone with more skills. :D

The battery is held down by a super lightweight gravity clamp. :flipoff2:

More pics to come with better lighting. More info on the build as well. :smokin:

I hope that the muffler doesn't rub the tire too much. I also hope that the muffler is far enough away from the propane tanks. May have to make a heat shield.


Lookin good. I wouldn't worry about the heat on the tanks. My dual Flowies are a lot closer to my tanks. I did make a heat shield, but that was cuz the sun was getting the black tanks too hot.

i hope you put something thick to protect those switches...

i have slid all sorts of nobs across my side panels

I'm gonna put a small plate across that area just to keep them from getting completely killed :D

Right On!!! It lives :-)
Missed you at Deer Valley this weekend but am super glad you were able to start it up. Do you think you may be able to run Rubicon as a test run on the forth of July? I hope so :-) Let me know if you want to have a work night one day after work this week or perhaps this weekend. Talk with you soon.

Looks like you guys had a good time. Wish I was there.

It fired and runs. :smokin: Now there's just a bunch of little stuff before I get it over to the sheet metal guy. I've got to take a look at the wiring. Once it's running you can't shut it off. :shaking: The ignition switch won't turn it off and the master kill switch won't shut it off either. Have cut it's throat with the coil wire. I should just leave it like that. Not much time to work on it this week. Have to get ready for a little camping trip next weekend. I'll let you know when we have another work day.

FORMULA OWNERS!
How many of you Formula guys are running X-bracing? Send me some pics. of were you located it. Also if you have any pics of your firewall and floor panels it would be much appreciated. :D
Need some pics to show the sheet metal guy some ideas.

FORMULA OWNERS!
How many of you Formula guys are running X-bracing? Send me some pics. of were you located it. Also if you have any pics of your firewall and floor panels it would be much appreciated. :D
Need some pics to show the sheet metal guy some ideas.


No X-bracing here. But I do have two tubes running across from side to side. IMO, The cage is stout enough not to need the full X-brace, but that's just my .02
http://www.sandtastictoys.com/FT_RearSeat2-.JPG

As for the firewall and floor panels, I tunneled mine just to be more family friendly and it was also how I had interpreted the CalRoc rules way back when.


http://www.sandtastictoys.com/Floorboard2.JPG

If you look hard enough, you can see that I used .25" thick Lexan left and right of the bell-housing to create more visibility.
http://www.sandtastictoys.com/Dash4.JPG

http://www.sandtastictoys.com/SafetyEquip1.JPG

BTW,
Your build is coming along awesome :D
Nice work too!

Thanks for the help Hammer Hog. That looks really clean. I don't know how you came up with that much room to make the tunnel.
I have just enough room to fit my seats. The seats almost rub both the cage and the t-cases. I can only cover the tranny. :shaking:
Do you have a flat bottom on your rig? My floor is going to be a pain to sheet.

Thanks for the help Hammer Hog. That looks really clean. I don't know how you came up with that much room to make the tunnel.
I have just enough room to fit my seats. The seats almost rub both the cage and the t-cases. I can only cover the tranny. :shaking:
Do you have a flat bottom on your rig? My floor is going to be a pain to sheet.

I had a flat bottom at early on in the build and found that it was a bit heavier than I wanted. I did brace up from the belly-pan in just a few key locations. I then had Bud from BudBuilt modify one of his crossmembers.
Here is the floor frame work when I had the full belly-pan installed. You can see one of the three post type supports resting on the belly-pan.
http://www.sandtastictoys.com/FloorSupport1-.JPG
I did not frame up and over the trans/t-case due to the fact that the breaks in the sheet metal is self supportive.
Now that I have the custom BudBuilt in place, I welded a few diagonal truss braces to help support the floor frame. Unfortunately, I don't have any clear photos of the added bracing.

In this next photo you can see that my floor is a two piece unit. The left piece is not in the photo. Left of the tunnel is a 1" flat lip that the left panel overlaps. The tunnel and the passenger side floor panel is one piece for extra rigidity and it works very well. I figured it would help reduce the added weight of the frame work and mostly made for extra seat room without the added frame work.
http://www.sandtastictoys.com/FloorSupport2-.JPG

Here is the custom BudBuilt, but it's just prior to retro-fitting the floor bracing.
http://www.sandtastictoys.com/BudBuilt1---.JPG

Nice work Hammer Hog! That will help me out. It looks like you have the tranny and t-case about 1.5" - 2" lower than the frame. It also looks like the seats are narrower than the PRP units. This might expain why I have no room for a tunnel over the T- cases. Hopefully we can come up with something creative. Also, what type of rear seat are you using?

Nice work Hammer Hog! That will help me out. It looks like you have the tranny and t-case about 1.5" - 2" lower than the frame. It also looks like the seats are narrower than the PRP units. This might expain why I have no room for a tunnel over the T- cases. Hopefully we can come up with something creative. Also, what type of rear seat are you using?

Bestop from Summit...Link (http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=304169&autoview=sku)
PN BST-39333-09

I think if you delete the upper frame work as I did, and break your sheet metal similar, your PRP seat may still work fine.

xbrace not needed but good helmet is.

since you already have the PRP front seats, why not go with their rear bench (http://prpseats.com/seat-gallery.html) its only $125 more but they can make them pretty much what ever width you want. i got the narrowest one cuz i only have to fit my two 6 y/o boys back there. and as you already know, they are quality.

since you already have the PRP front seats, why not go with their rear bench (http://prpseats.com/seat-gallery.html) its only $125 more but they can make them pretty much what ever width you want. i got the narrowest one cuz i only have to fit my two 6 y/o boys back there. and as you already know, they are quality.


Probably going with the PRP but just wanted to see what other people were running. Trying to hard to be a cheapo. Might as well match the front. Gonna have to re-route the exhaust to fit a rear seat. :shaking:

xbrace not needed but good helmet is.

My head is about 5" away from the bars. Maybe 6" if I squat a little.

In regards to the X-bracing. I'm sure someone has rolled one of these things fairly hard. If so, did you have any major cage deformity without the bracing?

The guy that told you it's not needed has probably had the hardest roll out of any F-toy, and he doesn't have the X brace either. I rolled Sean's pretty good during a comp, and it just left a couple small dents. And he's flopped it a bunch, too.

Here's some details of what we did on #020
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=193487&stc=1

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=193491&stc=1

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=193490&stc=1

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=193489&stc=1

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=193488&stc=1

Im4yotas :D
Thanks for the pics. Gonna probably skip the x-brace for now, until I find out how the removable rear seat will go.
Also like the flooring in that thing. I'm going to probably go with the expanded metal in front of the pedals for visibility. In the winter just throw a rubber mat over the area.

Started putting things in there place and had a problem with the starter button. Longacre got another one coming. Hope to have it driveable by next week.
Anyone know when the next event is?

Anyone know when the next event is?Still working the issue :( :(

I didn't know there was an issue. What's the word? Problems with the class? The dates?

Once it's running you can't shut it off. :shaking: The ignition switch won't turn it off and the master kill switch won't shut it off either. Have cut it's throat with the coil wire.


Did you ever fix this? Make sure the big wire from the alternator to the battery that supplies the charge goes straight to the battery and not on the off side of the switch. Otherwise, the alternator will just keep feeding the coil. Had the same problem with Heywood's :D

I didn't know there was an issue. What's the word? Problems with the class? The dates?Go to competitor forum

Go to competitor forum
were is that

were is that

PM camo for access to it

PM camo for access to itPM Lance for access. Let him know who you are, and what rig and class you run.

Did you ever fix this? Make sure the big wire from the alternator to the battery that supplies the charge goes straight to the battery and not on the off side of the switch. Otherwise, the alternator will just keep feeding the coil. Had the same problem with Heywood's :D


Finally fixed that problem :D Now I can sleep at night. I think I just had a brain fart.

It's been a little while since I updated this post. So here are some progress pics. This is actually my favorite pic. :D

It looks so purdy :smokin:

Rear.

The muffler gets rubbed sitting were it is. Moving it caused other problems.

Frontal. It's gonna look much better with the stinger and lights :smokin:

Still have to get the floor and fire wall done.

Muffler getting a kiss from the tire. :shaking:

Sorry, one more from the side. :flipoff2:

Muffler was moved and now it blows right onto the down tube. Now I'm gonna have to move the down tube over a little or mount them at an angle.

Rear shocks mounted. This worked out to be the best way to mount them around the tank. Going to move them again when I get the rear seat in.

Lower rear shock mount. :smokin:
Also found that this thing has a ton of axle wrap with these AP buggy springs.
May need new springs or trac bar.

Noooo flex at all. :shaking: My wifes car flex's better. But flex isn't everything.

Other side with no flex. :rolleyes:

Still have to mount front shocks.

Spent the day wiring in the Auto meter gauges. What a pain in the ass. All the work of wiring them and they don't even work. May have well just used one of those oven temp. gauges like you use on turkeys. The lights come on but no needle movement. :mad3: I have to find a way to bypass the wires on the recall on the tach. Anyone no how? Temp. gauge not working either. All the wires are were they are supposed to be but still not working.
Still have to add the volt gauge, that probably won't work anyway. :mad3:

Cary's purdy kit. :D

Make sure they're grounded properly. Get out the volt meter and start checking power leads and ground sources. I have 3 in my 4Runner, linked together w/common ignition and grounds. The lights are also share common hot/grounds. At first, I'd hit the key and they'd all peg out. It turned out to be a bad ground. Are they electrical sending units? If so, make sure that any telflon tape is not in the way, preventing current flow. That can be double checked with your multimeter. Positive to the sending unit, ground to the battery. The Autometer volt guage will automatically shoot up to battery voltage if wired properly. You know have it when it reads right. Something's not right. And I seriously doubt your sending units are all bad from the factory. I thought I had fried two mine but they work fine now. Feel free to post up a wiring diagram of what you have.

The worst part of the day is that the engine just started to die :mad3: :mad3: :mad3: :mad3:
It's making the death clak. :barf: The sound of more $$$ going down the crapper. It's sound like the bottom end.

Anyone in the santa cruz or bay area have an engine?

I have a 82 or 83 Celica 22RE and wanted to know if I can use the 22RE block, head, and intake with the propane? Or can I bolt the intake from the 22R onto the 22RE? Anyone?

Anyone read this stuff?

1 step forward, 2 steps back... isnt that how it always goes? Any plans to increase flex?

First I have to fix this engine problem. Then I'll work on fixing the flex. Gonna change the springs a bit and make some hybrids. :D

After doing a little research, it looks like I can use the 22R head on the 22RE block. Any input?

After doing a little research, it looks like I can use the 22R head on the 22RE block. Any input?My understanding is that the cam timing is the only difference. I did this last year when mine made the death clack after TDS. Lasted until the 3rd course, day 1, at Donner :( . Yes, you can change rod and main bearings in camp and finish a comp, thanks to my POR (not BB) friends :beer: :beer:

I don't even know the condition of the RE block. So I may just buy a rebuit engine and save the hassle.

Anyone installed an ATTARCO (rebuilt) engine in their ride. They want $850 for a rebuilt and $650 for a (re-condintioned = meaning they came straight from Japan as is). The rebuilt one has a one year warranty and the 6 month warranty for the re-conditioned. A local yard has one that is not rebuilt and has a 195 compression across the board for $650. TAP has the same price for their non-rebuilt engines. However, TAP has rebuilt engines for $1250.
What should I do? Need to make a decision fast.

I was also told that a '84 intake off a 22R would bolt onto an '83 22RE Celica engine. Will this work?

Damn, That sucks big time!!! Don't forget that Brad has that rolled toy in his front yard he was telling us about at your buggy work day. Perhaps it could be your new engine? I wish you the best for your continued build.

Hey, I called and left a voice mail on your cell after I got back from the con on the 4th of July and have not gotten a call back yet. What up with that?

Are you going to make the club meeting this week? People have been waiting for an update on the shirts / hats / trail jackets from you for a couple of months. Hopefully you will be able to make it as people have been asking me about the status. Anyway, I hope all is well with you and hope to see you Thursday.

Eli

A little update on the engine. Pulled the engine and found the source of the loud noise. Turns out the bolts to the flywheel backed themselves out. :shaking: A first for me. Getting it back together and should be on the trail in about a week. :D

A little update on the engine. Pulled the engine and found the source of the loud noise. Turns out the bolts to the flywheel backed themselves out. :shaking: A first for me. Getting it back together and should be on the trail in about a week. :D

That's great! The flexplate bolts on my small block would back out periodically and I know how you feel: the sound is almost identical to a rod knock.

This time use red Loctite on those sucker so you don't have this scare again!

Your F-toy is looking great! Lack of flex? It looks more like lack of an appropriate obstacle. The incline puts more weight on the rear, so naturally the rear is going to do all the flexing. Try backing onto the same obstacle and see what the front does.

I like the lower shock mounts. How thick / what size is the tubing they were made from? Looks beef!

On the muffler issue, why move tube before moving the muffler? It seems like you could find another place for it where it wouldn't dirty up your frame or you could just make a turndown/turnout for it.

Well keep up the good work. I love eyeballing these F-toy buildups. All the F-toy guys are making some kickass rigs!

Used lock-tite on the bolts. The blue crud and torqued the hell out of it. Put the clutch housing on the flywheel and snapped two of the bolts off in the fly wheel :mad3: Tried to remove the broken bolts and messed up the threads and didn't feel like tapping them so I tack welded the clutch to the flywheel. :laughing:
The tubing is 1" inside dia. and is 1/4" thick. Flex is better than I thought and not too worried about it.
Just can't wait to get this thing back and running.

Your rig is coming along well and I am glad to hear all your motor problems were in the flywheel cause that thing sounded rough last year.
Tried to remove the broken bolts and messed up the threads and didn't feel like tapping them so I tack welded the clutch to the flywheel.
Dude, given a lack of patience and a little frustration I can see saying "screw it" I am welding this thing but I still can't believe you accually did it :shaking: after all the other time eating things you have already done. Oh, just FYI my rig is ready is yours??? :smokin: Then get back to work we got to hit the trail before the end of summer. See ya, FB

Got the rig out on the trail this past weekend and it worked awsome! :smokin: Very impressed with its performance. Still have finishing touches but should be done within the month. Going to Fordyce this coming weekend and give it a little more of a challenge.

Here are some pics. of Fordyce. It's first real run. I can't believe how well this thing works. :smokin: :eek:

:d

This thing goes just about anywhere you point it. I was very impressed with how well everything worked, with the exception of a few design flaws.

Added a stinger, had to do it. :D

Engine cage bent up. Mounted on poly bushings on both ends so it can be easily removed :smokin:

Cut down a hood and mounted up some fenders I had laying around. It looks more like a buggy now. The engine cage supports the hood and I have no idea how I got the thing to look like that on the first try. :D

Nuther view.

:smokin:

From the cockpit.

Steering problem I ran into. :rolleyes: The pitman arm hits the spring under full compression.

I moved the front crossmember up into the frame opposed to were it was, welded to the bottom of the stock crossmember. That moved my front mount higher than the rear mount, which also brought the spring closer to the pitman arm. Another down side to this is that the pinion angle points down a little further as well. I think I may add longer mounts off the ends as opposed to cutting the whole thing off and making a mess.

i love the 3rd gen fenders, sick

Can also run some bumpstops that I got from Marlin the other day.
I am running 5" AP front springs and thought about taking out a few leaves to achieve some more flex and lower the ride height as well. I think moving the front hanger ends down 2" will help. Or maybe I'll buy the matching 3" buggy springs from AP. Anyone have any input?

Or do you think I should just run bump stops and be done with it. The 5" springs used to flex awsome under the 4-Runner. Now with no weight they hardly move. The rear springs flex the tire into the chassis. :eek: The fronts need a little help.

What do you think about removing some leaves? Will this cause possible breakage?

Just another fun pic. :D

:D

:confused: Fronts won't budge.

Findin' out how far she'll go. :D

Found that point a few times

Looking good!!!

Are you coming to the comp this weekend?

Or do you think I should just run bump stops and be done with it. The 5" springs used to flex awsome under the 4-Runner. Now with no weight they hardly move. The rear springs flex the tire into the chassis. :eek: The fronts need a little help.

What do you think about removing some leaves? Will this cause possible breakage?I don't know the answer. I'm trying to remember how I solved my pitman arm to spring clearance problem. I think it depends on the mounting angle for the box.


You coming this weekend??

Can also run some bumpstops that I got from Marlin the other day.
I am running 5" AP front springs and thought about taking out a few leaves to achieve some more flex and lower the ride height as well. I think moving the front hanger ends down 2" will help. Or maybe I'll buy the matching 3" buggy springs from AP. Anyone have any input?

Pulling some leafs will help but you may end up with axle wrap, but maybe you can put a half leaf on top of the pack to help counteract that. As far as I recall we can't have a front traction bar for some reason

Don't think I'll make it this weekend. Was hoping everything would come together. Doesn't look like it though. Most likely the next one. No firewall yet, among other things to meet the rules. Plus it would be nice to iron out a few issues. :D Look forward to meeting you all some time and having some fun on the rocks.

Does anyone know if the firewall has to be full without cutouts? What materials are approved? And if I remember correctly the roof has to be either expanded metal (welded at every contact point) or metal (fastened every 12"). Is this right? Also, do we need to have the tranny completely covered? I only have a short tunnel. Anyone?

Does anyone know if the firewall has to be full without cutouts? What materials are approved? And if I remember correctly the roof has to be either expanded metal (welded at every contact point) or metal (fastened every 12"). Is this right? Also, do we need to have the tranny completely covered? I only have a short tunnel. Anyone?Firewall needs to protect the driver from an engine fire. Roof is right. What tranny cover??

So I can scratch the tranny cover. Sweet :D Roof is next and I'm gonna try to make most of the firewall out of sheet metal and the outsides with polycarbonate.

Also having a brake problem and need help.
I barely touch the brakes and all four tires lock up. Is this just because my rig is lighter or did I screw something up. It seems to be hooked up right. The only thing that I can think is that the vacuum line comes right off the side of the intake manifold straight to the brake booster. Can the line I installed between the two be too large? Or could the vacuum port off the intake manifold be to big? Anyone have a picture of the stock location were the brake booster vacuum line comes from?

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/ Might fix your pitman arm problem.....

I lowered the front hanger which helped the clearance issue a little bit. Lowering the hanger also helped correct my pinion angle. Next I will be using that straight pitman arm, but first have to move my box a little bit.
Will be updating this post shortly with new pics and tech.

Fyrdude got any more pics with the front skins on? I like the look of it with fenders and the hood.

What are the dimensions, frame to ground, ground to top of cage.

POOK,
I have many more pics. of the front fender and hood. I'll be home tom. and will post those pics.
As for the measurements, I can get those tom. as well. The cage was set 2" above the frame and this seems to work perfect. The bottom is a flat belly and affords much ground clearance. Once you go flat you'll never go back.:p
Can get all the specs. posted up, just can't remember them all right now.

cool thanks.

btt ;)

So I haven't had much time to bring you up to speed on whats been happening with the F-toy. Not a whole lot until now. Going to be at the Cougar Buttes event and have a lot to do in very little time, so I'll try to keep you up to date on what I'm doing. Here are some pics. of its last run before I ruined a few things. Including turning Longfields into Twizlers. Need them 30's:D

Poser pic.:shaking:

How I broke a few things!:smokin:

Nuther view.:D

There's a long list of things to do and parts are arriving everyday. It's like Christmas! Will update soon.

Good straping on the cooler and gear.

I like that front clip. It'd be cool to install some bed sides like the old allpro truggy.:smokin:

I saw that you signed up for wrecking ball, cool I did too.

I saw that you signed up for wrecking ball, cool I did too.

Bitchen ass, me and desertoy are leading that one, should be a good time:smokin:

After much head scratching, finally got one side of the firewall / floor done. Pics. to come tomorrow. Should have the other side done soon. Window net, roof, Longfields, ARP knuckle studs, parking brake, and anti-wrap bar are on the way.

Attention F-toy owners:
Who's running an anti-wrap bar in the rear? And do you have any pics. Right now I'm building one similiar to Blue Torch Fabworks pre-manufactured unit. Wanted some other ideas/pics.
I have serious axle wrap in the rear with the AP buggy springs that has to go.

I like that front clip. It'd be cool to install some bed sides like the old allpro truggy.:smokin:

I saw that you signed up for wrecking ball, cool I did too.

I don't think that I had signed up for the run. Must be somebody else. Would love to go though. Have to get the details. :D

After much head scratching, finally got one side of the firewall / floor done. Pics. to come tomorrow. Should have the other side done soon. Window net, roof, Longfields, ARP knuckle studs, parking brake, and anti-wrap bar are on the way.

I don't think that I had signed up for the run. Must be somebody else. Would love to go though. Have to get the details. :D


your right my Dyslexia must of kicked in its ftoy 27... thought it as 23, still you should go :D

www.Tinbenders.org for the jambo info

Attention F-toy owners:
Who's running an anti-wrap bar in the rear? And do you have any pics. Right now I'm building one similiar to Blue Torch Fabworks pre-manufactured unit. Wanted some other ideas/pics.
I have serious axle wrap in the rear with the AP buggy springs that has to go.
I am, still at work for the week, but when I get home I'll post some.

Man, I like your build...Nice work. I have a Q though...how is the rear spring mount (shackle) workin' out mounted like that? Mine is going together the same way..just curious.

mark

I am, still at work for the week, but when I get home I'll post some.

Would definately appreciate the pics. Here is what I was going to build. Minus the brackets top.

Man, I like your build...Nice work. I have a Q though...how is the rear spring mount (shackle) workin' out mounted like that? Mine is going together the same way..just curious.

mark

The Johnny Joint shackle works awsome. Definately works. Only one observation. The rear springs tend to move to one way or the other, depending on the last way they flexed. I think this may be a result of my no u-bolt design and the spring pack moving in the clamps. So the axle does shift from side to side a little. Maybe an inch or so. Thought about running a panhard bar.:shaking:

Finally got the firewall / floor pan finished. What a pain in the ass. Started with foam board and transferred the shapes to 16g sheet metal. Here's the foam Drivers side.

Passenger side foam.

Finished product drivers side.:smokin:

Passenger side finished.

Front side of passenger.

Front side of drivers.

Side by side.:D

The whole thing is going to get Line-X coating.:smokin:
That would be the do-it-yourself Line-X, Herculiner.:laughing: Then it will be fastened with top :shaking: grade sheet metal screws. But it will work great.
Next is the flat dash, hopefully that won't take too long. Then the roof, still trying to decide on the material to use. Also have the team stickers on order.:D Thank you West Coast Designs! :smokin: Very custom, can't ruin the surprise.
Still a long list of things to do! One at a time. More pics to come.

Also finished beefing the x-member that I cracked. Will post the beef tomorrow.:D

Here's the firewall / floor Herculined. Came out better than I thought it would. :D

Had to beef the x-member. with a 1/2 horseshoe of metal. This should stop the flex.

Nice:smokin: And thanks for the reply on the rear spring set up. I noticed you have the Hendrix Dashbar, have you tried tilting it down at all? I saw that trick on another Ftoy with the dash bar. Trying to figure out how to mount my guages.

haven't tried rotating it. Just get the Auto Meter gauge pods that are on mine. Look kinda trick. And they can be moved around.

Got it masked off and the primer coat applied.:D A big thanks to Steve.

How do you like the new color?:flipoff2: Just the primer.

Should have the paint, skins and roof done by this weekend.

Attention F-toy owners. How did you mount your roof to make it comp. legal. Bolts/fasteners? I know that it has to be fasted every 12" it just doesn't state how. I'm thinking about those large sheet metal screws right into the chassis. Let's see those pics. if you've got 'em.:D

Have spent the last week getting the skins together. Originally I planned to follow the pack and run what everyone else was running. Of course I always have to be different.:shaking: When I set out on this idea, I had no idea how it would turn out. Well it turned out better than I had hoped for. I continued with the 3rd generation look in hopes that it would someday pass as a street legal "truggy". That's the plan right now. So, fender, hood, doors, sides, roof, dash, firewall, and floors are all done.:smokin: What a pain in the ass! As soon as the weather changes, I will be shooting the paint. Then Familybeast will be making me a custom wiring loom.:D :D
More to come.

Here are the 3rd gen. sides.:D

Getting in and out of this thing is a pain in the ass. Worse than the Dukes of Hazard.

From the back.:D

From the back.:D

are you going to build some bedsides?

Looks awesome. :beer:

Passenger side.:D

Roof is done. I love sheet metal screws.:barf:

Just need to add the gauges and the sheet metal screws of course

From the inside. See what I mean about the tight fit through the door. I need a shoe horn and some grease to get myself in there.

Hopefully I'll get some paint on this thing soon. Stay tuned for more.:smokin:

excellent, that right there is how you could make a ftoy street legal. its all in the appearance. i love the idea.

are you going to build some bedsides?

Looks awesome. :beer:

Until Pick-N-Pull has a nice bed that I can cut up, this is what I have. Been trying to find a tailgate that I can hack up as well. So the answer is yes, someday. Anyone have a 3rd gen. bed and tailgate they want to hock?

excellent, that right there is how you could make a ftoy street legal. its all in the appearance. i love the idea.

That is the plan right now. The turn signal box, wiper kit, mirrors, LED turn signals/running lights,windshield and mud flap/fender flares are all on their way. Hopefully this thing will be on the street soon. :D Have a CHP friend helping me with the logistics. And now I better put my flame suit on and ear plugs in, so I can filter all the negativity.:D

whatd you do about the vin on the firewall? you still have all your emissions or have another friend also?

I cut all VIN #'s off the truck before hacking it to pieces (Firewall, door jamb, and even the dash). As for emissions, according to the Cal. DMV smog ref. it still needs to be smogged, just with different standard since it is propane. Then I called the local smog shop and he said he would smog it as long as it met all of the criteria. He said he would give me the check off sheet that they use, so I can use it as a guideline so there will be no problems.

Why not make the doors look like half doors? That would make it a *little* easier getting in and out. I like the concept of it though. Gives the squared off chassis some more shape.

RE: Bed sides. You could try and hack up some 3rd gen front fenders and put them on backwards. Seen them done before and they look pretty good. Nice work regardless.

Why not make the doors look like half doors? That would make it a *little* easier getting in and out. I like the concept of it though. Gives the squared off chassis some more shape.

RE: Bed sides. You could try and hack up some 3rd gen front fenders and put them on backwards. Seen them done before and they look pretty good. Nice work regardless.

I actually did use those front fenders and reversed them onto the rear and temporarily hung them. They did look great, however there was a significant gap between the door and the rear fender. I think using the bed sides and a hacked tailgate will give it a more street legal look.
May also try to manipulate some sheet metal to match the door and one of the front fenders reversed. May go that way first. :D

You could try fiberglass fenders like the All Pro Truggy.

Were those rear fiberglass bed sides? Have to see some more pics. Might be $$$.

Until Pick-N-Pull has a nice bed that I can cut up, this is what I have. Been trying to find a tailgate that I can hack up as well. So the answer is yes, someday. Anyone have a 3rd gen. bed and tailgate they want to hock?

Ive got a tailgate you can have.

Ive got a tailgate you can have.

Definately interested, will shoot you a PM.:smokin:

Glassworks Bedsides are $475, so might be too high.

All Pro Truggy pics.

http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/wheelin%20trips/JVAllprorun/photos/photo100.html

http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/wheelin%20trips/JVAllprorun/photos/photo101.html

Glassworks Bedsides are $475, so might be too high.

All Pro Truggy pics.

http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/wheelin%20trips/JVAllprorun/photos/photo100.html

http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/wheelin%20trips/JVAllprorun/photos/photo101.html

Thanks for the pics. Are those bedsides from Glassworks Bedsides. They look awsome. May need some trimming to fit the F-toy. Definately nice. Thanks again.:D

this thing is gonna look fawkin awesome. wait, it already does.:D

Thanks for the pics. Are those bedsides from Glassworks Bedsides. They look awsome. May need some trimming to fit the F-toy. Definately nice. Thanks again.:D

I'm not sure. You'd have to ask All Pro.

I know Boatec, Hanneman, and Glassworks all sell Fiberglass bedsides. I guess it comes down to how much flare you need.

Here's what I found at Pick-N-Pull today for $150 :eek: :eek: :eek:
A big thanks to Steve for all his help.:smokin: Decisions, decisions, decisions. What should I do with this. If I am going to compete it can't go on the F-Toy. But if I don't compete it can. Hmmm. Let's just look at it for a while and think about it. That's a Dana 60 out of a '78 Dodge by the way.:smokin:

One more, just cause it's a thing of beauty.:D

Unfortunately it's a dually, but we can fix that.:smokin: Love the Selectro locking hubs.:smokin:

Sometimes I wonder -- are we wheeling dudes or treasure hunting dudes? Both are fun. The next treasure hunt should be for a Chevy 4.3 Syclone or Typhoon. Then you can ponder Turbo Power!

Steve

Don't give me any more ideas. Your making my decisions harder and harder to make. But it does sound like fun, so Pick-N-Pull tomorrow.:D We'll make the circuit and come back happy hunters. Thanks again for your help Squarewheels:smokin:

Time for an update. Stripped her down and added a fresh coat of safety red and a little flat black. Finished up with dash/wiring, floorboard/firewall, doors/panels, and a ton of other misc. shiat. I was a little skeptical at how it would turn out, but it looks alright. Also got a little shipment from the man, Mr. Longfield.:smokin:

Another side view. Had to ad the holes in the doors so I could get in. Still a pain in the ass getting in and out of it with the stock window opening. It redefines the Dukes of Hazard entry.

Dash all finished up with the gauges. The floorboards/firewalls installed and matching center console. My favorit addition is the shifter knob. Finishes it off nicely:smokin:

that is pimp as hell. good work. it looks like a caged truck.

Bobby's awsome shifter!:smokin:

Rear view:D

I still think I will add the chopped up bedsides and tailgate. Still trying to decide. I guess it all depends on what PNP has to offer.:D

My favorite pic. of all. :smokin: :smokin: I can't wait to try and break these. I'll give 'em my best Bobby but I think I will fail miserably:D
Nothing says beef like the 30's:smokin:

So I get the thing all together and am as excited as hell to get it fired up and pull it out of the garage. Hit the switch and all I get is the starter and no runny. So I think I have to pull the wiring apart again and go through it and find the prob. Which sucks because everything is tucked behind the dash and console which have to come out in order to get to the wiring.:mad3: :mad3: Another day.:shaking:

that is pimp as hell. good work. it looks like a caged truck.

Thank you. :D The plan was to make it as street legal looking as possible but still maintain that buggy thing. Soon it will have all the stuff to get it on the road, just one step at a time.:D

wow!!!! cant wait to see it in person :)

That thing is bad ass!!:eek: great work!

wow!!!! cant wait to see it in person :)

Hows it going Hobie? Looks like you had some fun at the ProRock event.:smokin: Love the pics. of you on your lid.:D Looks like you guys had a great time. I look forward to the next event. Most likely the June event. Did anyone get any video of the F-toys competing? Would love to see some vids. By the way, did you add an X-brace to that thing? Thinking about adding one to mine.

Nice work :smokin:

right on i love how the doors turned out. nice job man.

later tj

Thanks for the compliments guys. I can't wait until it's done.
Anyone have a 3rd gen. bed they want to get rid of? Preferably in the Bay Area. PNP beds always look like they were hit by a dump truck or were used as a roadside bomb.:laughing:

Hows it going Hobie? Looks like you had some fun at the ProRock event.:smokin: Love the pics. of you on your lid.:D Looks like you guys had a great time. I look forward to the next event. Most likely the June event. Did anyone get any video of the F-toys competing? Would love to see some vids. By the way, did you add an X-brace to that thing? Thinking about adding one to mine.


yep had a blast. no video though. and yes i had an X brace. then i cut it out.

Why did you cut it out? Not needed? In the way? How well has your chassis held up in rolls without it?

looking good really like the skins.

how easy is it going to be to make replacements?

Gorgeous.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=237082&stc=1&d=1143679502

I take back a lot of what I said about F-Toys not looking like Toys.

Gorgeous.

I take back a lot of what I said about F-Toys not looking like Toys.


It's just skins. You could run s-10 body panels and have the same effect.

But it does look bad ass. Maybe I'll do the same with my leftover tacoma sheetmetal from swapping on fiberglass.

It's just skins. You could run s-10 body panels and have the same effect.



X2 Mine is turning out like a FJ40 and goes to show you can use some imagination and make whatever you want to put the time into.:smokin:

Again, (.) (.) & :beer: Fyredude...looks awesome.

:grinpimp: It's just skins. You could run s-10 body panels and have the same effect.

But it does look bad ass. Maybe I'll do the same with my leftover tacoma sheetmetal from swapping on fiberglass.

I've always thought the F-toys looked a little funky. Don't get me wrong, I think the concept is awesome, just the look was "off" to my eye. I like Toyotas, but the tube buggy never appealed to me because in my mind, they looked nothing like a Toyota. Always looked like a K-car on Toy running gear to me.

Seeing FYRDUDE's 3rd gen door skins fit the tube work exactly shows me the body lines are damn similar. Belated props to Air Ride. :grinpimp:

Cronus, Tacoma skins would look sick! :smokin: S-10 skins would fit only if the A-pillar angle were the same; if not, lots of sheet metal work to make it look as good as this bolt-up does.

NRT, your hood is going to be sweet--but you'll never get an FJ40 door to fit as easily as these 3rd gen doors fit!!! :D

Fyrdude can you get us some inside pics of what it took to cut the doors up and make them fit?

lookin' good dude!

Thanks for the compliments!:D
Believe it or not the skins were fairly simple.

The front fenders (3rd gen stock) mount flush with the front of the chassis and the upper back bolt hole lines up with the A-pillar. I used sheet metal screws to mount them. Once hung you have to trim the bottom portion of the fender to match the bottom of the chassis. Approx. 4" or so.
Time: About an hour to get them all lined up and cut.

After mounting both fenders I then measured the inside front and inside rear to get the measurements for the hood getting cut like a "V" also removing much of the under bracing for weight.
Time: About half hour
Note: The hood sits on hood adjustable hood pins mounted on custom removeable hood cage.

After getting the hood and fenders mounted I then took the doors and cut the outer skin off. Removing everything except the very outside makes the doors very flimsy and prone to bending. I just lined up the factory lines and temp. hung the doors by attachin the top only. Then I welded spacers (Two 3/4" pieces of square tubing welded together) to get the correct distance between the fender and the chassis. I just evenly place 4 spacers across the the door. Then you have to cut approx. 2" off the bottom to be even with the chassis. Then I just figured were to cut the foot holes and used a jigsaw to do so.
Time: About 2 hours.

Everything was pulled from Pick-N-Pull for cheap!

They will be easy to replace if needed but why when you can just pound it out.
Next I will show the install of the pick up bed sides and rear tailgate being gutted. Going to stick with the Toy bed and tailgate. Sorry, no s-10 stuff.:D The body panels are surprisingly lite.
I will update more pics on how tomorrow.

Fyrdude can you get us some inside pics of what it took to cut the doors up and make them fit?

Will send them out tomorrow.

Hey FYRDUDE, I was wondering if I could maybe come check this thing out tommorrow. I will be in santa cruz all day.

Fyrdude,

Maybe I missed it but did you do this as an expansion on your hydro??

I didnt get time to cut and weld my reservoir before leaving the guys place that does my welding and I thought this wasnt a bad idea "if it works."

Have you kept this thing on there and if so, have you had any problems?

One last question, what the hell is it called? :laughing: I went to Lowes but couldnt find anything like that but then again, I didnt go through every isle.

Thanks,

Aaron
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/fatasstoyota/hydroexpansion.jpg

That thing you are looking at is an inline auto tranny filter. Not only filters the hydro. system but also gives me a little extra fluid.

Well after nearly two years of building it finally came together and I was able to put it through its paces on the Hammers. Here are some of the pics. Only thing left to do is add a PSC pump and maybe some new meats.

From the back.

:d

Backdoor:smokin:

Four cylinders of fury!:smokin:

The oil all over the face further aided in my denial on backdoor. Not to mention the fact that I tore the 3rd member out of the housing.:nuke: There's always tomorrow. Which brings me to my next question. Are there any aftermarket studs that are stronger than stock for the housings?

Also, what WB are you F-toy guys running. I sit at 105" if I remember right. Can still go back 2"

FROR - brian should be able to help you out with the studs. you runnin 35s?

I just bought some stockers. But if I'm gonna drill out the old ones, I would rather put in some beef so this doesn't happen again. Thanks for the lead, I'll give him a call tomorrow.:D

Sorry Mobil1Syn. I forgot to say that those are 37's. Want to go bigger but don't now if I want to risk it.

Thinking about running these.

Maxxis Trepador Comp. vs. the Krawler. Don't know which way to go.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470128

post #23

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470128

post #23

Thank you for the info. Definately calling them tomorrow. You da man!:smokin:

you gonna bring that thing out to vegas?:)

Very impressive build! Ever get the bed sides on. I would love to see some pics of that.:D

Rig turned out really nice.

I like the skins.

A few pages back, you said you were going to make some hybrid spring packs. After wheeling on it for a while, have you goeent any more travel out of the buggy leafs/hybrids?

Its a good looking rig, I cant say I am too fond of the OE Toy skins, but it does add its own attitude to the rig and completes it.

So how did your steering work out after the pitman arm change etc.... Was thinking of mounting my spring hanger the same way, then thought the springs would hit the pitman arm. Read that yours hit and you were going to change some things, so how does it work now? Could you post a pic of it? Thanks.....Nice build, it came out really nice :smokin:

So how did your steering work out after the pitman arm change etc.... Was thinking of mounting my spring hanger the same way, then thought the springs would hit the pitman arm. Read that yours hit and you were going to change some things, so how does it work now? Could you post a pic of it? Thanks.....Nice build, it came out really nice :smokin:

Thanks,
The arm hit all the time and had to be careful until I moved the front mount down another 2". After that I never hit again. I will post up pics. of the dropped front hanger. Also, check out my sig for the new buildup. :smokin:

A few pages back, you said you were going to make some hybrid spring packs. After wheeling on it for a while, have you goeent any more travel out of the buggy leafs/hybrids?

Its a good looking rig, I cant say I am too fond of the OE Toy skins, but it does add its own attitude to the rig and completes it.

Ended up losing the 2 bottom leaves out of the front pack and that ended up helping a ton, along with a longer shackle. The rear 3" buggy springs from AP flex unbelievable.:D Didn't need to change them after a couple runs to break them in. They just needed to stretch out a little.:D

you gonna bring that thing out to vegas?:)

As soon as I finish the new buildup I plan on getting out to some runs but as for comps., probably not. Now I've got a kid and she takes up a lot of time and money. But she sure is worth it.

Rig turned out really nice.

I like the skins.

Thanks Shamb, now I'm trying to keep up with you:D

Very impressive build! Ever get the bed sides on. I would love to see some pics of that.:D

I did find some bedsides. However, they are going to take a lot of work to get them on and look good. The pics. will posted up on the new buildup in my sig.

Just went through your whole formula toy build. Good job, I really liked the custom non-u-bolt rear perches and the sheet metal you finished it off with.

Good job.

Thanks for the compliments. Just to let you know that the U-boltless setup isn't all its cracked up to be. Was constantly tightening them, like twice a trip. Switched to U-bolts. The sheetmetal was pretty simple and ended up using standard panels until I get the doors reworked to make getting in and out easier. Kinda a pain to crawl through a window on an already cramped buggy.

That thing looks good are you gonna bring it out to the Tin Bender jambo?

Unfortunately not. I'll actually be out there the weekend after TinBenders.