I figured I would start a new thread on the Rover to Toy conversion. I used Keith's (Revor) template and drilled the housing for the Toy studs. They are considerably smaller than the rover studs. I think 10mm, but I'll check for sure tomorrow as I can't remember right now. You can't use the stud nearest to the upper and lower gear cutout in the housing, so you are left with 8 out of 10 studs for mounting. We are tapping the other 2 studs with 1/8" NPT to plug them. Seems to work well so far, although there is no oil so I won't know about leakage til later this week.

We welded the studs into the housing from the backside. Of course we cutout the diff cover to do this. When finished we welded in the "pipe cap" diff covers in place of the very thin stock cover. Should be pretty tough now!

Front is High-pinion FJ80, rear is V6 type diff. A 4 Cyl rear will work as well, the only difference is the V6 diff has 50mm bearings and the 4 cyl has 42mm (I think) bearings. Also, rumor has it that the 4 cyl R & P is slightly stronger, I do not know why yet. I also hear that it will fit in a V6 diff as well. I am using 4.88 gears with ARB's front and rear. The toy stuff is 30 spline and I think the axle diameter is something like 1.318".

Front High-Pinion mounted, minus axles and spindles.

http://pics.montypics.com/lwg/2005-02-16/1108537362_pict0308.jpg

Rear V6 diff mounted.

http://pics.montypics.com/lwg/2005-02-15/1108536705_pict0305.jpg

You'll notice TONS of Right Stuff. I am hoping that there won't be any leakage, we'll see.

I have the rear axles and somewhat put them in to check and see if the rear diff was centered. It looks pretty damn center, unfortunately I never did this with the rover axles for comparison, but I think it will work out just fine.

Now to get both driveshaft lenghts properly adjusted and get Toy flanges mounted on the axle ends.

Go rovota. Git er done Larry. Looks close to the end now.

JP

As long as you were welding, you could have built that relief up a bit and drilled and taped your weld. But really, the nine studs left should be enough. The studs are 8mm for the V6/Turbo rear but I've noticed that the T100 and newer Tacomas use a 10mm stud (and a very heavy one-piece bearing cap) but you can't get them with an e-locker. The 30 spline axle diameter is 1.290. I like the idea of the high-pinion front but couldn't use it for my truck as it would have had a clearance problem with the Benz engine so I'm just running a rear one up front.

Here's a picture of my front done. They're 4:56s...The lowest you can from Toyota with a locker. This is a great conversion and I can see it's going to become popular pretty quickly.

http://seriestrek.com/axle/front1.jpg

But the guys on Discoweb say it won't work!

(:flipoff2:)

But the guys on Discoweb say it won't work!

(:flipoff2:)
Only Kyle says that.
But if they sell kits for this at EE they'll be innovating mofo's!
Oh btw, Dweb is back up if you need some REAL tech! :flipoff2:

I've gotten enough flames from KVT on this subject in the past year! All I can say is that I've been butchering my Disco on 36"s for 9 months with one 25$ cheapo CV giving up - THAT is cool...

This is why rumors ar ebad, because theyre usually wrong.

A V-6 R+P is approx 30% stronger because it is thicker than a 4 cylinder. You can use a 4 cyl R+P in a V-6 housing with the use of a spacer. Most V-6 Toy diffs are also 4 pinion vs the weaker 4 cyl. 2 pinion. There are also more ribs on a V-6 diff housing making it stronger also.

With all that work, you shoulda just gone with E-lockers. :rolleyes:

Also, rumor has it that the 4 cyl R & P is slightly stronger, I do not know why yet. I also hear that it will fit in a V6 diff as well. I am using 4.88 gears with ARB's front and rear. The toy stuff is 30 spline and I think the axle diameter is something like 1.318".

Front High-Pinion mounted, minus axles and spindles.

http://pics.montypics.com/lwg/2005-02-16/1108537362_pict0308.jpg

Rear V6 diff mounted.

http://pics.montypics.com/lwg/2005-02-15/1108536705_pict0305.jpg

You'll notice TONS of Right Stuff. I am hoping that there won't be any leakage, we'll see.

I have the rear axles and somewhat put them in to check and see if the rear diff was centered. It looks pretty damn center, unfortunately I never did this with the rover axles for comparison, but I think it will work out just fine.

Now to get both driveshaft lenghts properly adjusted and get Toy flanges mounted on the axle ends.

As long as you were welding, you could have built that relief up a bit and drilled and taped your weld. But really, the nine studs left should be enough. The studs are 8mm for the V6/Turbo rear but I've noticed that the T100 and newer Tacomas use a 10mm stud (and a very heavy one-piece bearing cap) but you can't get them with an e-locker. The 30 spline axle diameter is 1.290. I like the idea of the high-pinion front but couldn't use it for my truck as it would have had a clearance problem with the Benz engine so I'm just running a rear one up front.

Here's a picture of my front done. They're 4:56s...The lowest you can from Toyota with a locker. This is a great conversion and I can see it's going to become popular pretty quickly.

http://seriestrek.com/axle/front1.jpg

OK, I stand corrected, 8mm it is. It was late and I was tired...

I thought about fixing the other 2 studs or at least fixing one, but I didn't. FWIW the 4.88 ring gear is HUGE. It barely fit through the existing ring gear cutout as it is. It might not have fit through a smaller cutout had I welded it.

BTW, for the rear V6 you can get 4.88 from toyota, but not for the FJ80 high-pinion front.

With all that work, you shoulda just gone with E-lockers. :rolleyes:

I had thought long and hard about this. The main reasons I didn't were, in no particular order.

-Would have to jury rig up some electrical wiring harness for them. Not hard, I know, but I am down to the last minute as it is.

-Already plumbed for ARB's

-Didn't really want something hanging off of the 3rd, particularly in the rear as I plan to beat the shiat out of this truck.

-It really would have only saved me around $400 after the gear changes. Kind of wanted to stay away from Genuine Gear due to their inherent brittleness.

I have been looking for an affordable set of e locker complete housings for years. things are gold. Good job on the centres Larry.

j

Get friendly with a dealer and buy new ones. Cost is just over $700 for the complete e-locker third-member and any of the three ratios. Roughly the same price as an ARB alone!

Get friendly with a dealer and buy new ones. Cost is just over $700 for the complete e-locker third-member and any of the three ratios. Roughly the same price as an ARB alone!

or, go to InchWormGear (http://www.inchwormgear.com) and order them from Jim. He has the best prices I could find. I think the price on E-lockers just recently went up $100 as well. The only downside to ordering them with factory gears is that they basically use Genuine Gear which is widely believed to break easier than the Yukons or Precision Gear sets. This is due to the designed use. Genuine Gears are designed more for long term highway use and thus are harder than the Yukons or Precisions that are designed more for Off-Road use.

Before anyone starts flaming :mad3: , this is based on a few conversations with Bobby Longfield. Not saying the Genuine gears are bad or anything, just something to think about.

That site shows high pinion. Could you run high pinion front and rear?

The high pinions have reverse cut gears and are made to run in the front. I guess you could run them in the rear in the same way that most front third members are just rears turning backwards. It's not the way it's meant to turn and you'd be driving on the coast side of the gears but you'd probably be OK for a while.

80 and 100 series are notorious for breaking the high pinion front diff when reversing under load.

I would stay away from using one in the rear.

Toy guys have already proven that hi-pinion e-lockers :nuke: when run in the rear. Sammy guys seem to get away with it though due to the light weight.

Get friendly with a dealer and buy new ones. Cost is just over $700 for the complete e-locker third-member and any of the three ratios. Roughly the same price as an ARB alone!

yeah, but I want the housing and all. Toy hubs, wheels and housings. If I can't find a 93-95 myself to buy

This is cool!

I wanna do it !!!!!

Now if I could only get all these Fawkers out of my shop so I can work on my own junk!!!

Hey Rock God, why bother with a whole housing when this is as easy as it is? If you do find a pair of full housings with lockers they’re going to have a billion miles on them and still cost you a pretty penny and then you’ve got to go through all the trouble of getting them in your truck. Even with new thirds re-geared to 4:88 you're still only talking around $2000 to do the front and $1500 to do the rear. I'd bet you'll pay close to a grand for each of the used housings. The housings you’ve got are already where they’re supposed to be and besides, the Toyota bolt pattern would look :rainbow: under a Rover!

These pictures are from a Series housing but it’s the same as a coil-sprung truck. Like Larry was talking about, you’ll see where you might want to weld the ring gear slot a bit so you can grab the extra two studs, though I guess it’s not a big deal if you don’t. I used 8mm threaded studs with a SK6 interference thread on one side so they’ll stay put. You could also use a press-in stud like Larry did.

This is a picture of the mounting face off the Toyota sitting on the Rover housing. You can see that area that's got to be removed for the locking mechanism.

http://seriestrek.com/axle/housingwelded1.jpg

This shows the housing welded, ground and ready to be drilled for the new chuck.

http://seriestrek.com/axle/housingwelded3.jpg

The front diff together and ready to go in. The pinion flange is the only "machine work" you'll have to do in the front. The rest of it fits inside the Rover housing.


http://seriestrek.com/axle/frontdiff.jpg

Hey Revor, get those dicks out of your space and get it done!

jim