UPDATE: Skip to my update 5 posts down...

I just noticed there is a shim on the driverside perch, and NOT on the passenger side perch - which could be why there is such a large gap there - and in turn causing my tranny reverse slop.... In any event skip 5 posts down to see what I am talking about...


THANKS!


ORIGINAL POST:

I have been having some problems with my transmission making a horrible CLANK when first shift into reverse and I think I have found the culprit :mad3: Look at this $hit...

What should these rear axle Ubolts get torqued down to? (68 CJ5 w/ stock D44 2piece rear shafts)...

http://www.photodump.com/direct/LostBackpacking/DSCF0276.jpg


http://www.photodump.com/direct/LostBackpacking/DSCF0275.jpg

I usually tighten U bolts to at least 100 ft/lbs.

I would say you should replace the U Bolts. I believe they are a torque to yeild bolt so they are probably stretching at this point. As for the torque values I dont know off the top of my head, but you will need to know the diameter of the U Bolt to get a torque value.

okay, thanks guys... I will pick up some new UBolts on Monday - in the meantime I will do about 90-100ft/lbs for the rest of the weekend unless I hear otherwise from you all... I don't have anything too strenuous planned that would snap them etc...

THANKS!!!

What size u-bolts? That is what should determine the correct torque. My 9/16 ones use around 90ft lbs. If they are 1/2" ones they use closer to 65-75 IIRC.

:eek:

I just noticed that on the rear axle, the driverside has a shim in between the springs and the perch, where on the passenger side, there is NO SHIM and thus - a huge gap... I wonder if possibly the shim fell out on the passenger side and caused that gap?

If there is a shim on the driver side - there had to be a shim on the passenger side right?

Are those shims neccessary? do they control things like driveshaft angle etc???

On monday when I go to the local 4x4 shop I will get a set of 4 ubolts and nuts and bring with me, the shim I have left on the driver side, and get 2 new ones to re-install... If I get the same shims everything anglewise should be okay right???

OH - and the ubolts have a 5/8" nut on them so I assume that means they are 1/2" U-Bolts??? SO do I do about 65-70ft/lbs on them?

Thanks for any insight here...

The shims help control pinion angle...

Don't know about CJ torque though, on a YJ they are 95 foot pounds...

My CJ had aluminum shims in it when I bought it. The soft metal had pushed out of one of the front spring mounts and the U bolts were loose.

The previous owner used a shackle lift and then added shims to correct caster.

Ron

Replace the aluminum shims with steel.
The cast aluminum will break into a thousand pieces and fall out, you're lucky you caught before the other fell out.
The torque of the u-bolt could be figured by the thread size and a chart, mine are 5/8" and I torque them to 100 lbs. I wouldn't go that high with 1/2".

Okay,

GOT SOME NEW UBOLTS AND 2 DEGREE SHIMS!!!

What should I torque my new U-Bolts down to??? They are 1/2" Ubolts (they came in a kit from RANCHO)...

A simple Google search turned up this u-bolt site. Kind of higher than I would have thought compared to the typical torque charts that come with torque wrenches.
U-bolt torques (http://www.youngspring.com/pages/torque.htm)

HMMM??? 92ft/#

That seems like alot?

I was thinking like 65-75? I torqued them down to 75ft/lbs...

The rancho directions have torque specs for the front ubolts, but the rear ubolt directions just say "torque down to spec"??? Why would they leave that out - unless it gets torqued to the same as the front Ubolt?

What would you all torque them down to??? Do you trust that guys webpage???