When I was first test driving the cruiser, it was pretty apparent that the front residual valve was holding the front calipers tight. So I took it apart, fished out the residual valve for the front and put it all back together. Well last weekend on Bronco canyon it started doing it again. I was able to open up the bleeder valve and get it to release and then run most of the rest of the day stopping with gears and not the brakes. But the drive back to the trailer was interesting! :eek:

WTF?? I'm about ready to tear the POS toyota booster and master cylinder out, light it on fire, drive over it, the melt it with a torch and turn it into a cool christmas tree ornament. :mad:

Not sure what year booster it is, but here is a crappy pic
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=164417&stc=1

Could the residual valve for the rear be holding up the front? Or could it be that the master cylinder is fubar???

betcha the rod between the booster and the master is a hair too long and is holding pressure...does it gradually build up over the day, and your pedal ends up RIGHT on top?

Butch and I just discussed this on one of the LSLC rigs....

betcha the rod between the booster and the master is a hair too long and is holding pressure...does it gradually build up over the day, and your pedal ends up RIGHT on top?

Butch and I just discussed this on one of the LSLC rigs....

:eek: Dang man, it's like you were riding with me. hahaha. I'll adjust that tonight and see what it does after that. Thanks man! :beer:

had that same prob on my buddies cruiser, the rod was too long and had no more adjustment, so we used a small shim on the bolts. works great now.

My 71 cruiser does the same thing. When i pull the master cylinder how can i tell if the rod isnt adjusted right ?

loosen the bolts on the master a few turns....all 4 of them, but don't remove...if the pressure on the brakes releases that's a sure sign....also, if the master pushes away from the booster...