I'm trying to get the SOA and axle swap done in time for the Winter Nationals (March 8-10). So I talked Josh C into helping me do the rear SOA on Saturday. I think I went tooooo big! Used a custom spring pack the PO had made, removed the bottom spring and put in an add a leaf. Oh shit, the thing is huge. Might as well have done the SOA on the four inch springs. Oh and the front is not done, so I'm driving around with the ass end way up in the air.

Up front I'm building just over an inch of lift into the new spring mounts for the SOA. I still need to order the new drag link and tie rod, bushings for the front, and extended brake lines. Install shocks front and rear. New bump stops all the way around. And a whole bunch of other sheet. I've got next Sun, and the following weekend to wrap it up. I'll keep you all posted, and I'll try and get a photo or two up tonight.

BTW, anyone running AAL's, how much will they settle, if at all.

Joe

Dude why didn't you just use stock springs :rolleyes: :flipoff2: Good luck straightening,....er....leveling, things out.:beer:

I bet you will like the height after the front is completed. I'm thinking about going the 4" route if I can find some cheap.

This is what I got done this weekend.

On board air: pressure switch, tank mounted in bed, pop off at compressor and tank, guage at compressor and tank, quick connect at compressor and tank, Craftsman lawn mower air filter on intake. All I had to purchase was air filter= $5 and a few pipe nipples and fittings=$10. Had all of the other stuff laying around already except for the pressure switch that I got from skeetshooter.

Shocks and towers: used waggoneer towers that I got from skeetshooter, had to remove the shock bolt from them and weld in a larger one since my new shocks required 3/4".

Shackles: built one inch longer than stock,(built them last weekend), repaced bolts with new ones.

Carburator: had carb rebuilt in town, put it back on and installed pressure regulator, and manual choke, and a high flow air breather, Runs a lot better now.

Misc: removed the under dash A/C unit, repaired a busted body mount, and grooved the center lugs on the swampers. Installed the tailgate that I made a couple weeks ago.

It's a good weekend when you fall asleep under your scout:D

Originally posted by Hayraker

It's a good weekend when you fall asleep under your scout:D

Dayum :eek: I guess you were busy. I need a weekend like that.

I spent all weekend under my truck trying to envision how I was going to get an axle wrap control system under there. My mufflers take up a lot of belly space. Run right against the inside of the frame rails, and over pretty close to the driveline.


Guess, to make it work, I will have to swap some narrower mufflers in....

I looked at putting the wrap bar outboard of the frame, but the spring hangers get in the way, so it would have to be outboard of those, and then you run into leverage problems being that far away from the frame....

Hoop,

Try what I run. Leaves lots of room. 12" x 2 1/2" cherry bombs w/crossover.

Not too loud at first.

After a few years, ya don't wanna be standin' behind it when I romp on it.

YeeeeeHaaaawwww!

"Cherry Bombs" are the WORST mufflers for a trail rig. They are not spark arresting. What are you trying to do, start a forest fire?

Originally posted by scoutver5.7
Hoop,

Try what I run. Leaves lots of room. 12" x 2 1/2" cherry bombs w/crossover.

Not too loud at first.

After a few years, ya don't wanna be standin' behind it when I romp on it.

YeeeeeHaaaawwww!

What did they run you? Something the muffler shop has to install? Reason I ask is that my exhaust is spliced together with flexitube right now, and any shop will make me replace the whole thing back to the mufflers (muffler out is fine). I'd like to find an application I can install myself (non welder) or something someone can weld on real quick for me....

http://www.ihssii.org/Hooper/Images-Misc/AxleWrapShackle.jpg

What about an axle wrap shackle mount like this? Still have to deal with the attachment on the axle end, but would a shackle setup like this work? Doesn't seem like there is a whole lot of stress on the shackle, some vertical force, but at the end of a long lever arm, that is minimal....? I drew it with a single bar for simplicity sake, but it would be with a ladder. Could go one side, or two side...... heims on the shackle cross bar,,,,

Originally posted by Hooper


What did they run you? Something the muffler shop has to install? Reason I ask is that my exhaust is spliced together with flexitube right now, and any shop will make me replace the whole thing back to the mufflers (muffler out is fine). I'd like to find an application I can install myself (non welder) or something someone can weld on real quick for me....

http://www.ihssii.org/Hooper/Images-Misc/AxleWrapShackle.jpg

What about an axle wrap shackle mount like this? Still have to deal with the attachment on the axle end, but would a shackle setup like this work? Doesn't seem like there is a whole lot of stress on the shackle, some vertical force, but at the end of a long lever arm, that is minimal....? I drew it with a single bar for simplicity sake, but it would be with a ladder. Could go one side, or two side...... heims on the shackle cross bar,,,,

I don't know if that setup would twist too well, have you ran it though the arcs to see where things are going to bind?

BenW,

Dem cherry bombs been on there 18 years and I ain't never started a fire.

I actually have 2 brand spanking new Flowmaster Series 40 ready to install.

Originally posted by jdjanda


I don't know if that setup would twist too well, have you ran it though the arcs to see where things are going to bind?

Like I have whizbang software to do that!!! <g>

Hmm, axle will swing side to side, only minimally, so if I ran the bar inboard as it travelled (have to dodge the muffler somehow) it should run through the arcs just fine. As long as the shackle is longer than the distance the axle moves front and rear, it will not bind in that direction. The heim will allow enough twisting, I already looked at that. This is not a reverse elip suspension, so I don't have quite as much movement as Kevin.

This is not something I am going to start putting together this weekend. I am still brainstorming ideas.

Originally posted by scoutver5.7
BenW,

Dem cherry bombs been on there 18 years and I ain't never started a fire.

I actually have 2 brand spanking new Flowmaster Series 40 ready to install.

Regardless, they are still bad mufflers for any vehicle. Here in WA state if you are caught on a Forest Service road with glasspacks aka cherry bombs, you can be ticketed and given a hefty fine.

Originally posted by Ben W


Regardless, they are still bad mufflers for any vehicle. Here in WA state if you are caught on a Forest Service road with glasspacks aka cherry bombs, you can be ticketed and given a hefty fine.

Hmm, Tom M says his thrush mufflers work well. But, I need something narrow......

I wouldn't get glass packs, not only for the reasons BenW stated, but the IH 345 sounds terrible with them, it doesn't have that sweet sound like a 350 chevrolet, more of a school bus with a hole in the muffler sound. I know this because I have glass packs on mine that were installed by the PO.

I want something quiet, so it doesn't sound like I'm trying very hard to get over stuff.

Try a cross over pipe as close as possible to the engine side of the exhaust. That will take out the drone you will get with the 345 with glasspacks or straight pipes and help scavange the exhaust.

BenW,

I never heard of glass packs not being legal anywhere. I lived in Montana and Nebraska for 15 years and spent a lot of time in the prairies and grasslands on Forest Service and BLM land.

I had 2 1/2" exhaust with a crossover directly behind the t-case. I would like to have had it farther forward, but room is at a premium under a Scout. It actually sounded pretty sweet. A real deep, mellow sound. Off-road it was just loud enough for me to hear what the engine was doing. At 70 mph just a deep rumble.

BTW, I was just kidding about cherry bombs in the first place.

:D

Originally posted by Hooper


Hmm, Tom M says his thrush mufflers work well. But, I need something narrow......

Y'know, with enough body lift you could always turn the mufflers on their side, straight up n' down.. without having them hang down too far.

I do like the Thrush Turbos.. cheap and effective, and I HATED the glasspacks.

They were alright on the race truck for a short while, but the open headers are cooler. ;-)

My Travelall sports a Midas Turbo that's "barrel shaped".. bigger than a glasspack, but smaller (narrower, anyhow) than the Thrush Turbos.

I had it replaced because the original muffler was only half there, and I needed the "head" pipe replaced, too.. and I'm DONE doing exhaust work with clamps and chunks of tube.

I'll cut the pipe and weld in a new muffler, but that's 'bout it..

Originally posted by scoutver5.7
BenW,

Dem cherry bombs been on there 18 years and I ain't never started a fire.

I actually have 2 brand spanking new Flowmaster Series 40 ready to install.

I run 40 series Flowmasters on my Scout. They sound really good, alot better than glasspacks do. A little loud when cruising 75 down the freeway but between those and the swampers its sounds sweet goin down the road:D

For what its worth....I run stans headers and
right where they end I sprial loop the exhaust
over the frame and outside. They end up right
under the driver and passengers feet kinda like
the jeep guys do. I'm running Flowmaster Delta
3 chamber mufflers. 2.5" in/out, center in/offset out.

This way I don't even concern myself with any
lack of space inside the frame rails.

I have a 2.5" body lift so there is tons of room.

I took it first to a muffler shop and after two
hours and much wasted tubing they gave up.

I went home and grabbed a bunch of short exhaust
pieces that I had for my race bike and made them
work perfectly.

If you want to know how to do it then email me
directly at: afm19@pipeline.com

I ended up using three short curved pieces.