Ive got a york off a ford van and I'm having a hell of a time keeping my air lines on. I have some pretty sturdy 3/8" line held on with worm clamps and they keep either blowing off or blowing holes in them after the compressor is on for about 15 min. They are blowing off because the compressor is getting hot and heating up the hoses allowing them to squeeze off. Why is it getting so hot? One thought is because my radiator hose to the intake runs around it and barely touches, I thought that could be one possibility but why else would it get sooo hot???

that is normal air get hot when compressed. get a better hose

Originally posted by JIM3030
that is normal air get hot when compressed. get a better hose

What he said. Cheap air hose can't handle heat. I run rubber hose used for tranny cooler lines. No problems so far and it's cheap to buy (well cheap compared to steel braided line etc).

yep, it is also common to use hydrauilc hose for the first couple feet.

Like the other guys eluded to, the technical term is "heat of compression." Pretty technically unadvanced huh?

You'll need to run a high temp line from the York's output to the tank, preferably a stainless braided hose. You'll probably need a threaded port at the York to do this correctly. Check out www.onboardair.com, they have the bolt on ports.

You can try and mess around with plain rubber hose and worm clamps. There are some rubber hoses that can handle the heat, but they can be tricky to find. The braided stainless is a surefire way to go.

cm "CFPPS" k

I'm going to use copper piping just like you see on a normel compreser :rolleyes:

Thanks, I'll see what i can do

Heck yeah, copper hard line is even better for its heat dissipating properties. It's rare that people have the flare and bending tools to work it. That's why I mentioned "bolt on" braided line.

cmk

i use braided metal lines on my york that i got off of a big rig and it works great

I've got copper fittings with my check valve, pressure reuglator, and filter, then I just have a regular air hose line running down to my tank. Never had any problems except my front output line got rubbed on and blew :D

Originally posted by cmk
Heck yeah, copper hard line is even better for its heat dissipating properties. It's rare that people have the flare and bending tools to work it. That's why I mentioned "bolt on" braided line.

cmk


no no just use the compresion fittings get them at any hard where store

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
no no just use the compresion fittings get them at any hard where store

Ah, I did not think of that. 99% of the work I've done with pneumatics has been in automation where "push to connect" fittings are the norm.

What sizes are hardware store compression fittings available in? I know I've seen some water line stuff that's like 1/8". Do they get as big as say 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2"?

cmk

I think when I do mine, I'll use black pipe, thats what they used in the shop :flipoff2:

:eek: Ive seen this

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
I'm going to use copper piping just like you see on a normel compreser :rolleyes:

Be careful with copper, or any hard line, if the tank is frame mounted, and the compressor is engine mounted, the different movements between the two may crack the copper a lot quicker than the heat will take out the rubber hose. Maybe you could run copper out of the compressor to the back of the engine mounted off the engine then go to rubber, or braded hose back to your tank. I personally came out of my compressor with a check valve, then a small filter/water seperator, then a valve, then a fitting and then a good quality rubber hose. It still gets hot, but hasn't failed yet...

chad

...when using hard line is mounting. Keep in mind that the compressor will move with the engine as it torques on the motor mounts. If you come off of the compressor with hard line and mount it to the body, something somewhere is going to break. You have to have some kind of flexible line in there somewhere to take the vibrations and movement.

Originally posted by TORC
...when using hard line is mounting. Keep in mind that the compressor will move with the engine as it torques on the motor mounts. If you come off of the compressor with hard line and mount it to the body, something somewhere is going to break. You have to have some kind of flexible line in there somewhere to take the vibrations and movement. not if you mount your engine solid to the frame, then you won't have to worry about worn out motor mounts

Originally posted by Brent Orton
not if you mount your engine solid to the frame, then you won't have to worry about worn out motor mounts
This is true.... that would eliminate the movement of the engine relative to the body. However, the frame is going to flex around some when you flex the suspension and there is still going to be vibrations to deal with that would probably shorten the life of a hard line mounted from the compressor to the body. The best bet is some sort of flex line between the compressor mounted components to the body mounted components.

Originally posted by chadl
I personally came out of my compressor with a check valve, then a small filter/water seperator, then a valve, then a fitting and then a good quality rubber hose.
chad

Dude, move the filter downstream of the tank. Unless you're running Viton seals, you're probably cooking the Buna ones with the heat from the compressor.

cmk

Originally posted by cmk


Dude, move the filter downstream of the tank. Unless you're running Viton seals, you're probably cooking the Buna ones with the heat from the compressor.

cmk

Okay what I got is a small glass tube with an inlet and outlet, and a small filter inside the tube. The inelt and outlet are sealed with teflon, I don't know what the filter is, but seems to be holding up just fine. The thing only cost $8 at the parts store. You do make a good argument, and when I redo my halfed-a$$ onboard air setup this spring, I'll probably move it downstream of my new tank....

chad