I've just got done putting my new ARB Bumper on and I replaced my 55w factory fog lights with some 55watt ProComp spot/narrow beam lights. I want to run another set of 55watt flood/wide beam lights to the same factory fog switch. All this would be done using all existing factory relays and wiring. I basically just want to splice the two floods onto the wiring that are now running the spot lights. Is this going to mess up the existing factory relay, and is the skimpy factory wiring going to be able to handle the wattage? Give me your thoughts and hopefully experience! Thanks!

it'll work...but why? I understand the floods, but why spots? Ya wantta light up the next ridge line? Your not going to find them useful on the trail...sell em and get some rock lights.

Originally posted by Cutter
it'll work...but why? I understand the floods, but why spots? Ya wantta light up the next ridge line? Your not going to find them useful on the trail...sell em and get some rock lights.

Dude I agree. Especially on the same switch. I can't count how many people I pissed off because my "Spot lights" where on the same switch as my rock lights.

If you need em, put em on a different switch. You will like the lights better that way. I currently have 10 lights on and under my rig and they are run off 5 different switches. :D:D

Originally posted by StoutOne
and is the skimpy factory wiring going to be able to handle the wattage?Umm, I have no idea what you drive etc etc etc...

But if it's a recent vehicle most MFG's do not put a lot of juice through the firewall. Almost everything is switched via relays and the ground wire (no juice) that way you don't make toast when your soaked.

If you've got some juice, it's most likely still going to a relay and relays can switch typically as much as 30 amps.

If you can wire relays this is the best method, use the little juice or the ground in the factory switch to trigger a relay that gets the juice from the source.

Most likely the factory wireing is near max on load carrying, use the relay and add more wire. Better safe than sorry.

Your asking for a :nuke: :nuke: :mad3: if you wire all of those lights on that switch.... I dont know of any factory wiring that could handle that much juice...You are alot better off wiring a system with a relay... this way no real amperage goes through the switch....

milkman

You could run a whole town of lights off that switch if it's controlling a big enough relay.
I always wire my aux circuits with a relay and a seperate fuse. Doing it this way means your not have to string any high current into the cab. Individual fuse for each one from the BATTERY or a AUX fuse box.
So many people screw up by trying to run their accessories of the fuse box and end up frying the box or the factory wirering.
Hit your local Stereo shop. They sell AUX fuse boxes with 5 fuses in them if your going to be adding several circuits. Easy to mount. Get a main fuse of like 40amps between the box and the battery if your going to mount the box inside the vehicle. I don't like to run a wire without a fuse in the first 6 inches of the circuit from it's power source. That is so if the wire gets damaged at say the fire wall then you have a safety device between it and the power source. This will prevent you from having a wire catch your rig on fire or fry the battery.
For a Bosch style relay here is how to wire it.
terminal 30 fused from the battery. Couple 55watt fogs should be fine with a 10 or 15 amp MAX. couple 100's then 15-20.
Terminal 27 to the light or what ever your controlling. Some rellays will have a 27A in the middle....forget it you don't need it. That will be a connection with the relay not powered. Good to make power door lock controller but not needed to control a set of AUX lights. Some have two 27's. They are joined inside so as long as it doesn't had "a" you could run one light off one terminal and the other light off the other terminal and it will work fine.
Now you have an option on the trigger wire. If your just running a unlighted switch then the easy thing to do is jumper terminal 85 to 30.
86 will go to the switch. The other side of the switch will go to ground.
The other option if you have a lighted switch is to Ground 86 and run 85 to the switch. Since your only going to draw a 1/2-1 amp your fine tagging the fuse box for power for the trigger and the light in the switch. Again fusing is a good idea or picking up your power from the fused side of a circuit like Cig lighter will also be fine.
The switch will have instructions on how to wire it. One terminal will be 12v. One will be ground for the light in the switch and one will go to the relay trigger.
Or in your desire you need to figure out if the dash switch is going ground or 12v and wire it that way.
Me....I might tag that switch for another switch but I sure would not wire both sets of lights together. Also if you smash a light with them all ganged together and cause a short you going to loose ALL the lights instead of just one set.
Do it right...seperate circuits and a second switch.
There are tons of options. Like if you wanted the lights only to work when the head lights were turned on you can do that also by where you tag power for your trigger wires.
Figure out what you want to happen and I'm sure myself or some of the others can tell you how to wire it.
I personaly like to tag into the maing parking light circuit. That way I can kill everything with one switch if I'm stopping.
Rock lights I wire constant. That way I can turn off the rest of the lights so my spotter can see under the truck without me blinding him the the head lights.
Figure out what you want to happen and post back.

Originally posted by Cutter
it'll work...but why? I understand the floods, but why spots? Ya wantta light up the next ridge line? Your not going to find them useful on the trail...sell em and get some rock lights.

No kidding. Way-back-when I bought a pair of KC Daylighters for my rig...

useful for lighting up the next ridge (or chasing a fox around a field).. but worthless on the trail.

OTOH, they're legal to run on the highway in Montana - as long as you turn them off 1000' oncoming and 300' following.

When you high-beam someone with the Daylighters they DO turn down their lights. :D

I'm going to yank the beat-up KCs off my trail rig.. and I have one more set new in the box that are going on my tow-rig.

*IT* has a use for pencil-beam lights. :D