Anyone else hate one of there tools more than anything else?

[TheRipper]

I swear everytime I try to work on something lately the damn welder screw's up.... :banghead: ..last time got one seat mounted.This time got 1 mount half way made before it screws up...This is all the welding before it went down.
http://www.headtraumacustoms.com/seatmount2.JPG
http://www.headtraumacustoms.com/seatmount4.JPG
http://www.headtraumacustoms.com/seatmount1.JPG

Then I found the culprit in the problem today and here it is...

http://www.headtraumacustoms.com/zoomtip.JPG
Made more of a xray effect here to see the damage better
http://www.headtraumacustoms.com/xraytip.JPG

So what is everyones else biggest troublesm tool in there shop.

[bspencer]

the tool using the tools........ :D

[oldjeep]

OK, I give up. What is that a picture of?

[TheRipper]

Go out to your garage and look inside your mig welder.Then where the gun stops right at the rollers you will see the little part.It holds the liner in.When I changed the bottle last time I bumped it and pushed the gun in a little to far.So what happened is the roller was touching and wore it thin.Then after I fixed it I geuss it went ahead and wore through.It took a spool and a little extra to wear through it though.I am going to see if I can get one in stainless maybe just so nothing ever happens like this again.When the wire catches the little groove it would hang up and just crumble wire up everywhere inside the welder.

[wheelsup]

then you had the tension on the drive wheels to tight.
that is what the adjustment is for.
if you stick the wire in the tip, or anything else, the drive wheels shold slip.
you want just enough pressure to drive the wire.
I set mine loose as it will go, squeeze the trigger and tighten it just until the wire starts to feed, never had a rats nest in the welder that way.

[TheRipper]

What kind of welder you running?How long is the gun on it?I used to be able to run with less tension but after putting a 15' 300 amp gun on it I could not run it real light like that for some reason.I think it is the distance.The man told me if I bought the 20' gun I would haft to actually buy new drive roller's.Maybe that is the difference.

[wheelsup]

the trick is to tighten them just enough to drive the wire.
if there is a jam in the gun or liner, the rolers should slip.
I have had anywhere from a 10' to a 20' gun on my mig's.
all of them i set the same way, never had a problem.
maybe you have the wrong drive rollers for the wire you are using?

[Urban Wheeler]

I want to ask, since you have a 15' whip, are you stringing it out and making it as straight as possible before you weld, or do you leave the extra coiled up?

[wheelsup]

You gotta striaghten it out, try to always keep it as straight as possible.

[DRM]

Any ratchet with "CRAFTSMAN" written on it. Pure and utter junk.

[glfredrick]

I hate any tool that breaks when I need it most - typically something I purchased to "save money" that ultimately costs me stitches, time, aggravation, and broken parts.

Next to that, the tools I hate the most are the ones that are still in the catalog when I actually need them in my hand. :laughing:

Oh - and anything grinding related that says "Norton" on the label... Those grinding and cutoff wheels are pure junk. They make even the best cut-off tools work like HF junk. Home Depot sells Norton junk.

[James_Fendley]

Any ratchet with "CRAFTSMAN" written on it. Pure and utter junk.

Sounds like operator error to me :confused:

[Urban Wheeler]

Any ratchet with "CRAFTSMAN" written on it. Pure and utter junk.
I've broken a few, but they broke after I put a cheater bar on or jumped on the handle to loosen lug nuts :D

[pmurf1]

Any ratchet with "CRAFTSMAN" written on it. Pure and utter junk.

You don't know how much this pains me to say, but I agree with DRM.

I've got three of those knuckle busting pieces of shit ready to go back. I just don't shop at Sears anymore unless I have to after my HDTV buying experience there. (Yes Sears will deliver a 47" widescreen to your new home, but won't send a bill to your new home because it doesn't match their records, even though you are enjoying said TV for almost 2 months and you know you owe them $ for it. :shaking: )

Husky ratchets from now on for me.

[glfredrick]

Husky ratchets from now on for me.

Ummm.... I think that Husky and Craftsman are both made in the same manufacturing plant... I could be wrong about that, but that's what I have heard.

As a tool sales rep, I'm always interested in knowing who makes what - and I know that there are a bunch of really great dudes on Pirate that know a lot of stuff, so I present the stuff below as sort of a learning experience - and ask that anyone that knows better or different make corrections. We all learn that way. :p

Below is another forum posting from some obscure forum where they were talking about tool manufacturing. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the posts below - and I actually know for certain that some of the info is incorrect. Snap On now has controlling interests (or outright owns) Williams, SK, Blackhawk, Proto, and a number of smaller tool interests like KD, etc. how do I know that? Snap On dealers get all the part numbers from those manufacturers in our computer with Snap On part numbers - something that we could only do if we owned at least a controlling interest in those companies. I also know that Snap On now holds a 51% market share of all hand tool sales in the US - which would be logical if we owned all those companies.

Also, I know that any tool "branded" Snap On will be unique without an equal tool in any other line. We sell some of our tools as "Blue Point" that we make in our plants, but which we also sell to other tool vendors - and the reason that they stay Blue Point is due to the branding/unique factor, so though there are other tools made in the Snap On plants, they are not the same tool as a Snap On. That is not to say that they won't work or hold up well - but only that they do not have the premium features that make for a Snap On branded tool.

I'm not the final word on tools by any means, but since I work in the business, I've learned a little bit about it. Okay, here's more than you ever wanted to know.

Lowes now (as of earlier this year) is selling a line of Mechanics Tools called Kobalt which is made by Snap-On. They are good tools.

Home Depot's Husky brand is made by Stanley Mechanics Tools, a division of the Stanley Works. Husky are also good tools and have a good lifetime warranty (they'll even replace your broken Craftsman with an equivalent Husky).

Until 1994 or so, Stanley also made Sears Craftsman tools. Sears Craftsman is now made by Danaher Tools. They beat out Stanley on the contract over price. Danaher also manufactures MatCo Tools, the third largest player in the Mobile Automotive industry (behind MAC and Snap-On). Odds are, if you own any Craftsman tools that are older than about five years ago, they were made by Stanley in plants in Dallas, Texas, Witchita Falls, Texas, and Sabina, Ohio.

Stanley also owns MAC Tools and manufactures MAC tools in the same plants. Now here's the kicker: MAC Tools, Proto Tools (a very expensive industrial brand), Husky Tools, and, (prior to five or so years ago) Craftsman Tools are all made from the same forgings in the same plants. Proto is unique because it goes through addtional testing and certification because it is used by NASA, the military, and industrial customers (including General Motors).

There are three MAJOR players in the USA mechanics tool business: Stanley, Danaher, and Snap-On. Stanley and Danaher (almost identical in sales revenue at about $28 billion each) are the biggest followed by Snap-On. Each of these three manufacture and sell tools under a variety of brands (there are many other brands that Stanley makes that I haven't even named). The quality between these three manufacturers is roughly the same. I know its a bit of a let-down to hear that, but its a simple fact.

There are a hand full of other minor players (Vermont American, etc) and an endless list of Taiwanese import tool companies (some of which Stanley own as well as Danaher to serve the lower end consumer import brands at WalMart, etc). How do I know all of this? I work for Stanley Mechanics Tools, specifically with the Proto Industrial brand. I personally do not think that MAC, MatCo, or Snap-On branded tools are worth the extra markup since they use the same forgings and manufacturing processes that make Husky and Kobalt and pre-1994 Craftsman. Where you need to pay attention are things like ratchets and torque wrenches. There are different specifications of ratchets and you do pay for the difference. Some mechanics require a finer, more precise ratcheting mechanism than guys like me who just bang around in the garage on the weekends.

By the way, Metwrench is basically considered a "gimick" infomercial tool brand that is not considered as a serious competitor to Danaher, Snap-On, or Stanley. Then again, IBM once didn't see Microsoft as a serious force in the personal computer business. Hmmmm....


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Then there was this discourse on FACOM brand tools:

> FACOM has been around forever. French company, says "American" in the name
> though I forget the whole acronym.

FACOM is Franco-Americaine de Construction d'Outillage Mecanique. French for "French-American Mechanical Tool Manufacturing". Got points in my french class for that.

> It's now one of the largest tool conglomerates in Europe.
>
> SK, I think, is an American company that recently has had a large part of
> its stock purchased by FACOM.

FACOM owns S-K outright. You'll notice (if you look through the catalogs from preceeding years) that the tools are becoming more and more alike. The S-K "pro" screwdrivers are now FACOM ergotwist screwdrivers. The "tuff1" ratchets are S-K pro ratchet handles avec FACOM innards. FACOM's ratcheting flare wrench now has S-K stamped on the side of it. I don't like it because we could get FACOM tools from S-K dealers for over 10 years, but now they're getting more and more reluctant to give us FACOM stuff, they'd rather sell S-K stuff. Which is why you get S-K catalogs instead of FACOM. If you specifically request (demand) a FACOM catalog, you get their _american_ catalog, which is abbreviated, along with a note to contact Griot's Garage. I've asked a French friend to get me a French market FACOM catalog, as they have all the good stuff that hasn't yet been absorbed into the S-K line. Ultimate Garage is a FACOM dealer as well as Griots, and I've been told (by richard?) they've got a catalog, dunno if it's FACOM's, but I'll order something and find out.

I was also wondering what the deal was with the S-K foundry? Presumably they still make some stuff stateside? No? I know there are others not mentioned, Cornwell has a foundry in Ohio, I think?

I'd kinda doubt that Williams uses the _exact_ same dies for Koalt and Snap-On. I compared the Kobalt combo wrench to one of my Snap-Ons, and they aren't the same. The Kobalt handle is pretty much rectangular in cross-section, and really does hurt your hand when you pull hard. The Snap-On is more rounded. As well, the Kobalt is visibly looser on the fastener. Maybe these are Snap-On rejects? Can't explain the handle differences, though. The breaker bars seem to share the same grip, though, it just seems the kobalt doesn't have those nifty machined indentations at the base.

I know Stanley owns Mac and Blackhawk (didn't know about Husky), but the Blackhawk stuff doesn't seem similar to the Mac stuff. These look awfully different to be from the same dies, shape wise. So the price difference is different steel in the better tools? Surely they can't be charging Mac prices for better plated Blackhawk stuff?

> FACOM also owns (large parts of) USAG (Italian?) and Beissbarth...

didn't know this. I'd like to find some USAG tools, just to try them.

[TheRipper]

I want to ask, since you have a 15' whip, are you stringing it out and making it as straight as possible before you weld, or do you leave the extra coiled up?

It is strung out everywhere.Most of the time weaved around through the cage.I found out the problem with that part.I have never had to change a liner in any of my welders before.I went to get a replacement part and they had the wrong size.But here is the catch.When I looked at the one for the smaller welding gun the cap that holds the liner in at the driveroller end.It had a larger hole than mine with a piece of liner inside it.See that was the problem mine was all brass and just wore a groove on the inside and has been dragging for a while.It just finally wore out where it made a groove on the outside and that is why the cable would ball up for about 6 inches worth before it stopped.See it had enough force to ball up a little just not much because it would hang in the groove.Then after a few inches the wire would start slipping and stop.So anyway I just drilled my piece out and cut a small piece of liner to insert in there and now the damn welder is welding better than it ever has before.I always felt like something was wrong with that gun just could not narrow it down.

[randii]

Ummm.... I think that Husky and Craftsman are both made in the same manufacturing plant...
Interesting post, but don't confuse made in the same plant with built the same. They may be identical... or they may just be built in the same location to a different spec. For example, IIRCTenneco automotive makes Rancho, Monroe, and Gabriel at the same facility, but there's differences between the brands, and definitely differences between models within each brand, even though some of the part numbers map across between brands.

All that said, it *is* kinda interesting if Husy contract-manufactures for Craftsman, or vice versa. For screwdrivers and such, I prefer Craftsman, but for ratchets and sockets, I prefer Husky.... and nobody holds a candle to Snap-on for crescent wrenches (damn near works of art!).

I have a set of FACOM end wrenches that are damn nice, FWIW, but most of their stuff is out of my price range (the wrenches were gifts).

Keep posting the info, glfredrick :cool2: -- interesting to know, even if translating what it means is anyone's guess....

Randii

[AmigoTJ44]

The scewdrivers Husky and Craftsman sell are forged by Western Forge. Anything that has the craftsman name on it that is forged are Western Forge. I worked there in college hell $15+ an hour to sell tools.

[EMG7895]

I've got an SK ratchet that randomly falls aparts when I use it. The snap ring that holds it together always pops out at the worst times.

[DRM]

Sounds like operator error to me :confused:

I have a 3/8" drive Husky metric set I got in 1993 that is as awesome as the day I bought them.

I have a SnapOn 3/8" druve set that I have had since 1995 that I love like a 3rd child.

But every Crafstman ratchet made in recent years that I have I am SCARED TO USE because they slip.

Oh, and I refuse to use a cheater bar on a Craftsman ratchet, so you can rule that out.

[DMG]

[QUOTE=glfredrick]We sell some of our tools as "Blue Point" that we make in our plants, but which we also sell to other tool vendors - and the reason that they stay Blue Point is due to the branding/unique factor, QUOTE]

Umm, a blue point tool is often outsourced, eg my large blue point pliers that are actually channellocks (sp)

[glfredrick]

We sell some of our tools as "Blue Point" that we make in our plants, but which we also sell to other tool vendors - and the reason that they stay Blue Point is due to the branding/unique factor,

Umm, a blue point tool is often outsourced, eg my large blue point pliers that are actually channellocks (sp)

That's about what I was trying to say... Blue Point could be almost anything - from Snap On making it and selling it to others to Snap On buying it from others and branding it Blue Point. For instance, a lot of our Blue Point vise grips are actually Vise Grips - though some are not. IMO - stay away from the ones that aren't!

[Dan Dibble]

I have a gear reduction 1/2" drill that WILL break your wrists. I hate the muther fawker. But it is the best drill for the notcher. :mad3:

Dan

[EMG7895]

I have a gear reduction 1/2" drill that WILL break your wrists. I hate the muther fawker. But it is the best drill for the notcher. :mad3:

Dan
I got one of those to, it's all fun till it catches :eek:

[haystax]

I've got a 1/2" gear reduction that is almost too dangerous to use - grabs and will rip your arms out of their sockets - plus the trigger only works to shut it off 1/2 the time :D But it's a mean tough old thing and we haven't found a new one that is nearly as tough. Weighs like 20 pounds though, a magnetic base Milwaukee will replace it soon though;)

Craftsman ratchets are absolute piles of shit...period. Snap-On or Cornwell are my favs for ratchets, my IR 3/8 titanium and new set of wobble extensions and swivel impact sockets are absolutely amazing - can't believe I could have lived this long without them - they are soooo badass.

My creeper and my drop light pisss me off on a daily basis and get hurled all over the shop on a weekly basis...other than that, I try to buy good shit so it doesn't piss me off and I can actually get stuff done instead of bust my knuckles and cuss all day long.

[n8damack]

New Craftsman ratchets are garbage. I have some old ones that still work, but the new ones are crap out of the box, and usually leave the garage in a big hurry when they slip and I bust my knuckles.

Depot has the warranty, but they are a pain about it. Say you have a 14mm socket that snaps, out of a 100+ piece kit box you keep behind your truck seat. They don't stock a 14mm individually, and tell you to either leave it there so they can mail order it, or do it yourself because they'll likely lose it (at least the guy was straight with me.) You say screw it, and return the entire 100+ piece kit box for a new one over just one socket. Whatever...

On topic, I've gotten rid of all the crap that irritates me, like my Crapsman ratchets. It makes life a lot calmer.

-Nate

[hotwheelsYJ]

Yep, just felt like I needed to jump in here.

A little insight,
I am ANAL about keeping my tools clean. I wipe them down everyday after using them, nice and organized all that crap.

My 1/2" Crapsman Socket wrench died on me. So I do like everyone else.
No problem just take it back for a new one.

When I hand it to the little worm @ the desk, he reaches under the counter and hands me this grimy, rusty looking POS that looks like somebody left it laying in the yard for a year or two. :mad3: :mad3:
He says that is the only one they have for exchange. I get the manager over there and still get no better service(neither one of them could have been out of HS yet) :shaking:

So now it looks like to trade this wrench I have to drive to another Sears to see if they have a better looking trade in. If they don't I think I will just get the damn repair kit and put the fawker in myself. :mad3: :mad3:

[rant off/]

[glfredrick]

I get to hear about how great Craftsman tools are all day long on the truck. They all say something about how they are "good enough for them" and how Grandpa used Craftsman all his life and was never let down...

Folks - tool manufacturers change.. The Craftsman of today is not the Craftsman of yesteryear -- and you are likely using your tools harder - in tighter places - on more difficult fasteners than dear old Grandpa ever dreamed of...

I'm old enough to remember when you could fix most cars and trucks with a crecent wrench, pliers, straight screwdriver and a hammer. Those days are long gone. Car parts never used to have loctite on the screws - nor did they offer such a wide array of different screw types. Now it seems as if the engineers have to prove their worth by making every single fastener on a vehicle a different type - size - length - whatever.

Yet, when they come on the truck and ask the cost of our Snap On ratchets, they just shake their heads and go back to Sears. I guess some dudes will never learn.

[BamaJeeper]

Oh - and anything grinding related that says "Norton" on the label... Those grinding and cutoff wheels are pure junk. They make even the best cut-off tools work like HF junk. Home Depot sells Norton junk.

So what do you use that puts Norton abrasives to shame?
I like the Norton grinding wheels I use alot better than black&decker and the Nortons have the screw-on center.
Just curious as to what is out there that really kicks ass for grinder abrasives.

[glfredrick]

So what do you use that puts Norton abrasives to shame?
I like the Norton grinding wheels I use alot better than black&decker and the Nortons have the screw-on center.
Just curious as to what is out there that really kicks ass for grinder abrasives.

Almost every other brand that I have tried puts Norton branded grinding wheels to shame, including the HF cheap stuff.

When I use a Norton wheel in my cut-off saw it just sits there and makes the metal melt - it simply does not cut, and I've tried at least 3 of them with the same results. Stick in a DeWalt, or a Mibro, or even a HF chop saw blade and it cuts great.

I haven't used the Black and Decker stuff... I generally avoid that - and yes, I know that DeWalt is still Black and Decker, but they seem to be a tad higher quality.

Most of the time I use HF stuff - especially when I can get it on sale. Even if I use more of it, it cuts and I can get 2-3 times as many wheels for my money as the competition.

I too would be interested in hearing which of the cut-off/grinding manufacturers are the best - both for longevity and for speed of cutting.

[cruiserbrett]

Pferd. I think thats how it's spelled. Their cutting wheels for the chop saw last much longer and cut much straighter than norton or other cheapo's. I get mine from a welder friend who cant use them once they are smaller than a certain DIA. which is just right for my cutoff saw. Try a welding supply house, or local abrasives dealer.

And as for the tool that pisses me off the most, it has to be hands down the stoopid Snap On pitman arm puller(CJ119b IIRC) I sprung for that cost about $100 and breaks everytime I use it. Gotta love the warranty. I actually found a $35 KD tools one that works everytime the SnapOn doesnt, so I now intentionally break the snapon one before getting out the KD one which hasnt failed yet.

And SnapOn has some nice tools but they are a RIPOFF on some shit. Transfer punches, sold as Bluepoint. $50 some odd dollars off the truck, in the EXACT same box(with a $0.10 Bluepoint sticker) and same punches as you get, at Harbor Freight of all places. For $9.99.



So what do you use that puts Norton abrasives to shame?
I like the Norton grinding wheels I use alot better than black&decker and the Nortons have the screw-on center.
Just curious as to what is out there that really kicks ass for grinder abrasives.

[SHERPA]

I don't really like my dewalt abrasive cut off saw very much, but it does what
it was designed to do......

I really hate any self-locking pliers (vice-grips) that are NOT VICE GRIP....

I used to have about 5 of them foreign made POS's, but I tossed them all

because they simply don't work.......

another gripe: My 300 dollar Optrel welding helmet.... the "non-battery-powered delio won't charge anymore, and the helmet is useless now.....

it is/was by far the msot comfortable helmet/headgear assy I have ever
used, I'm just bummed I gotta go get another one now..... and the factory
"replacement" kit for the battery-cell-thingy costs almost as much as a new
complete helmet sold on the net.....

--Sherpa

[BamaJeeper]

Almost every other brand that I have tried puts Norton branded grinding wheels to shame, including the HF cheap stuff.

When I use a Norton wheel in my cut-off saw it just sits there and makes the metal melt - it simply does not cut, and I've tried at least 3 of them with the same results. Stick in a DeWalt, or a Mibro, or even a HF chop saw blade and it cuts great.

I haven't used the Black and Decker stuff... I generally avoid that - and yes, I know that DeWalt is still Black and Decker, but they seem to be a tad higher quality.

Most of the time I use HF stuff - especially when I can get it on sale. Even if I use more of it, it cuts and I can get 2-3 times as many wheels for my money as the competition.

I too would be interested in hearing which of the cut-off/grinding manufacturers are the best - both for longevity and for speed of cutting.

I guess I should have specified. You are talking chop saw and I was thinking 4.5" angle grinder. I love their grinder rocks and cut-offs.

To contribute to the thread, I hate my B&D angle grinder! The shaft some-how warped after two months of use!! There have also been lots of times when I wished I had a 6" Metabo angle grinder with a cut-off wheel where the 4.5" DeWalt just did'nt get it done.

[n8damack]

To the 4.5" grinder/ cutoff wheel point:

Metabo cutoff wheels are sweet. They last at least 4 times as long as HF crap, 8 times Norton crap, but they cost more than 4 times more than HF crap and less than 8 times Norton crap.

I pick up a bunch when I'm feeling wealthy, or when The Company is buying.

I know nothing of chop saw blades, sorry.

-Nate

[blown4x4]

They break as soon as you put any and I do mean any pressure on them. Complete waste of money. I wish I would have thrown my money in the street then to have bought them :mad3: :flipoff2:

I like craftsman tools better because if you do have a problem with something they take care of it no questions asked. Snap-on will give you the run around and play 20 fawkin questions about how it broke, and how it was your fault. Snap-on can piss off :mad3:

[Goat]

Miller 175...the wire speed feature is a pain in the ass to dial the arc length. If I had to I'd buy a SP175+

[CrustyJeep]

I like craftsman tools better because if you do have a problem with something they take care of it no questions asked. Snap-on will give you the run around and play 20 fawkin questions about how it broke, and how it was your fault. Snap-on can piss off :mad3:That depends on your snapon driver and your sears store. I've had good luck with both. In my experience, if you show a broken tool to a snapon man, he will grab it and hand you a new one before saying a word. I've heard a few stories to the contrary with snapon AND sears, so YMMV. If you're getting the runaround from your snapon guy, you might try complaining to a higher-up. They don't much like that stuff.

[glfredrick]

That depends on your snapon driver and your sears store. I've had good luck with both. In my experience, if you show a broken tool to a snapon man, he will grab it and hand you a new one before saying a word. I've heard a few stories to the contrary with snapon AND sears, so YMMV. If you're getting the runaround from your snapon guy, you might try complaining to a higher-up. They don't much like that stuff.

Yuppers... I am a Snap On dealer and I just fix stuff. That is what we are supposed to do. Of coruse, sometimes we see that a customer has obviously abused a tool - ground it - used a pipe on it - used it for a hammer, etc., and that is taboo... Also, in the case of ratchets and screwdriver handles in particular, there is no warranty... We REBUILD ratchets and replace blades in screwdrivers - but we can't technically warranty the actual ratchet unless it physically fails (and then with some amount of paperwork) and handles are basically considered consumables - and the customer has to purchase them.

Basically, most of us will do whatever we can to keep our customers happy - to the point of taking stuff out of our own pockets to make a deal. That happens pretty regularly, and we in turn appreciate some sales to make up the difference. We, just like you, like to get a paycheck at the end of the week... The markup on tools isn't anywhere near what most of our customers think it is... And, remember, as independent contractors (franchisees) we have to pay all of our operating expenses out of the profits on the tools we sell. Typically, we operate around 20% markup and make somewhere around 6% after everything is taken off the back end of the deal (truck - insurance - inventory - promotional items - stuff we give free, etc,). Try to find another business where they operate on a 6% margin...

[jpnjim]

Husky is now made in Tawain garbage :shaking:
might as well buy K-mart brand.


Current Craftsman ratchet internals swap piece for piece with current Matco ratchet internals.
The only part that doesn't swap is the Craftsman main gear doesn't fit the Matco body, because there's no hole in the Matco handle for the Craftsman quick disco button.
All Matco parts do fit inside the Craftsman body though.

Yep, these 'newer' ratchets have a lower torque capacity than the earlier stuff, it sucks, but it looks like that's what Craftsman had to do to stay competitive with shit made in China/Tawain.

There's really no excuse for Matco using the cheaper internals though.




I have mostly Matco, Craftsman & Snap-on hand tools, with some Mac, and a few made in USA Husky's that aren't worth shit, since any replacements will be foreign garbage now :mad3:


I still buy Craftsman whenever possible, though I don't like some of the things they've done lately:

'regular' Craftsman screwdrivers have almost no hardening anymore.
My 10+ year old ones keep on lasting, but anything made in the last few years wear out before I even have a chance to break them :D

They're now making some Craftsman hand tools in China
Just got a Craftsman pocket style razor knife, that was made in China. :mad3:

Craftsman isn't the only company that's cut way back on quality.

Klein hand tools has gone way downhill.
I wear out a pair of their "extra hardened" electrical side cutting plyers (HD2000's) every year.
The pair I bought 18 years ago, and used for 10 years has no grips, and a blowout, but the rest of the blade is perfect compared to a pair of current Kleins after only a few months.

Two years ago, instead of buying another pair of Klein plyers for $30, I paid $50 for Snap-On's, and they're still working great (and are sharpenable).
When they finally do wear out, the Snap-On guy will actually replace them (unlike Klein's bullshit "lifetime warrenty").

[jpnjim]

Two years ago, instead of buying another pair of Klein plyers for $30, I paid $50 for Snap-On's, and they're still working great (and are sharpenable).
When they finally do wear out, the Snap-On guy will actually replace them (unlike Klein's bullshit "lifetime warrenty").

glfredrick,
Since your a Snap-On dealer......

These Snap-On 9" electrical side cutters (I don't know the 'real' name) had that lazer etched "Snap-On" engraving on the side, which lasted maybe 6 months.
Most Snap-On guys don't sell many of this tool, what do you do if you don't recognize a tool as Snap-On, and the marking is gone?

I guess I'll just have the guy compare them to the new one (that he'll have to order, like he did this pair), hopefully they doon't change the design by then.

[Urban Wheeler]

I was also wondering what the deal was with the S-K foundry? Presumably they still make some stuff stateside? No? I know there are others not mentioned, Cornwell has a foundry in Ohio, I think?
My SK dealer tells me that the wrenches are made in Ohio. I have a set, they are nice, but some of them seem to have an arc in the handle. I don't know if this is supposed to be like this or not. I haven't asked my tool guy about it, either.