OK,

I JUST DON'T GET IT. The wiring of my 1600 8v swap.

I paid to have my harness rewired from Trail Tough and have it here.

The 1600 8v has been mated to the Samurai transmission with a trail tough adapter and has been swapped into the engine bay. All the mechanicals of the hookup of the motor has gone well except for the throttle cable. It being a '92 all my fuel issues are behind me.

I'm having issues with the wiring.

The harness is laid out well, everything is marked so making the proper connections arent the issue.

The issues I am having is how to connect the single wires that need to be spliced in and connecting the ECM. I've made a bracket with Samurai ECM bolt pattern so the tracker ECM can be lashed to it with Zip ties so that it is easy to swap ECMs in the future.

Trail tough told me not to remove any wiring till I have the motor running, which makes sense but I am having a serious BRAIN FART when it comes to figuring out how I can make the connections. Do I solder them or will quick clamp type connectors work?? I just dont know.

Do you peel back the black covering and make the single wire connections INSIDE THE ENGINE BAY and then feed the ECM connector into the passenger compartment, somehow getting past the big rubber grommet??

Or Do you pull out the big rubber grommet out and feed the single lines and the ECM connector inside and make the connections inside there?
And once I did make the proper connections and all is working what is the proper way to remove the Samurai wiring that isnt needed?

I'm happy with the wiring harness that Trail Tough provided with me, I believe that they would help me with getting it working if I called them and camped out on the phone with them for a step by step but with the timezone differences, my work schedule, and my overall ignorace of wiring it would make for long time on the phone.

I can certainly splice wires, I'm not colorblind and could do the job with some coaching.

Trail Tough gave me wonderful instructions for installing the engine adapter and I didn't have a problem with it at all. Why they couldn't/wouldn't take the time to put together a set of instructions is beyond me. I'd have even paid a little extra, within reason for a decent set of instructions.

I'm frustrated and searching hasnt given me the detail I think I need.

Hell, if there was someone in my area (Northern VA) that has done it before and wouldn't charge me an arm and a leg I'd pay them to do that part of the swap.

Why bother?
I just peeled back the intake and exhaust on my '91 , swapped the motor (with the adapter kit) and slapped them back on the head. No wiring changes. You have to clearance the exhaust at the heat shield, and the air tube to clear the hood, and your done...
I've run it that way for the last 5 years... runs great! The EFI takes care of the change.

OK,

I JUST DON'T GET IT. The wiring of my 1600 8v swap.
Do you peel back the black covering and make the single wire connections INSIDE THE ENGINE BAY and then feed the ECM connector into the passenger compartment, somehow getting past the big rubber grommet??

Or Do you pull out the big rubber grommet out and feed the single lines and the ECM connector inside and make the connections inside there?
And once I did make the proper connections and all is working what is the proper way to remove the Samurai wiring that isnt needed?

I didn't do either one.

What I did was drill a 2'' hole in the firewall, about in the middle, on the passenger side.

I ran my new harness through that hole, leaving the original harness and grommet alone.

I then spliced the appropriate wires into the factory Samurai harness as per Brents instructions.

I can't see the advantage of removing any of the original harness from the rig.
(other than cutting off the loose ends you don't use in the engine bay)

I can take some pics later to better understand what I did if you like...let me know.

Why bother?
I just peeled back the intake and exhaust on my '91 , swapped the motor (with the adapter kit) and slapped them back on the head. No wiring changes. You have to clearance the exhaust at the heat shield, and the air tube to clear the hood, and your done...
I've run it that way for the last 5 years... runs great! The EFI takes care of the change.

Bill,

This would have been a fine solution if the original Samurai ECM wasn't blown and useless, and I didn't have a spare.

It was more cost effective for me to spend my money on $250 for the rebuild of the harness than the same amount of money, or more to repair or replace my Samurai ECM. Tracker ECMs, and every part of the fuel injection is more available and CHEAPER. I can get tracker ECMS for $40 all day long out of junkyards, try that for a Samurai ECM.

Running the 1600 EFI on the 1600 8V motor is a more economical route in my book than to keep replacing Samurai fuel injection parts that can cost 200% more and are tough to find.

I didn't do either one.

What I did was drill a 2'' hole in the firewall, about in the middle, on the passenger side.

I ran my new harness through that hole, leaving the original harness and grommet alone.

I then spliced the appropriate wires into the factory Samurai harness as per Brents instructions.

I can't see the advantage of removing any of the original harness from the rig.
(other than cutting off the loose ends you don't use in the engine bay)

I can take some pics later to better understand what I did if you like...let me know.


At this point in the game I will take any and all suggestions to help me get this truck running and using my new motor. It's frustrating that there isn't more information out there for doing this.

The info is there you just need to search alittle harder reword things a couple of times and you will find what you are looking for

I would connect everything,get it running,then disassemble everything again and SOLDER EVERYTHING!.
If not, propane it :grinpimp:

At this point in the game I will take any and all suggestions .


Here's a couple of pics of how I did mine.

These are before I cleaned up the wiring under the dash, and installed a grommet in the new hole in the firewall.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=178203 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=178205

Bill,

This would have been a fine solution if the original Samurai ECM wasn't blown and useless, and I didn't have a spare.

Gotcha. Some things just aren't meant to be easy I guess.
:D

The info is there you just need to search alittle harder reword things a couple of times and you will find what you are looking for

Then give me the proper words to use in the search.

Hi Banjoman -

First of all, there is no cut and dry instructions that will handle ALL applications - there are many combinations - which is why there is not an ALL INCLUSIVE set of instructions. The 1992 vehicle will be particularly easy for you to do. All of your splices will be at the old ECM connectors and/or the old relay plugs. There is no need to cut a new hole in the firewall. Remove the grommet from the hole, split it and remove it from your original Samurai harness. SAVE it for future use. Feed the connectors of the new harness through the hole - one at a time. Locate the wires of the same color at your old ECM connectors and/or relay connector and clip them - now butt connect each stubbed out wire from the new harness to the matching colored wires that you clipped from the old ECM connectors. DO NOT use wire taps. Seamless vinyl butt connectors or soldering would be preferable. Once the connections are complete, reinstall the rubber grommet - starting at one end and working it around with a screw driver until it is back in place. Nothin to it! If you have more questions please feel free to email me directly at blbradshaw@msn.com. :)

Hi Banjoman -

First of all, there is no cut and dry instructions that will handle ALL applications - there are many combinations - which is why there is not an ALL INCLUSIVE set of instructions. The 1992 vehicle will be particularly easy for you to do. All of your splices will be at the old ECM connectors and/or the old relay plugs. There is no need to cut a new hole in the firewall. Remove the grommet from the hole, split it and remove it from your original Samurai harness. SAVE it for future use. Feed the connectors of the new harness through the hole - one at a time. Locate the wires of the same color at your old ECM connectors and/or relay connector and clip them - now butt connect each stubbed out wire from the new harness to the matching colored wires that you clipped from the old ECM connectors. DO NOT use wire taps. Seamless vinyl butt connectors or soldering would be preferable. Once the connections are complete, reinstall the rubber grommet - starting at one end and working it around with a screw driver until it is back in place. Nothin to it! If you have more questions please feel free to email me directly at blbradshaw@msn.com. :)


"Nothing to it" is hardly a statement that I would make for this swap. But that is my opinion. Vehicle wiring is something that not everyone understands or feels comfortable with but with the pictures I have gotten and the above message I think I have what I need to move forward. I have never seen a swap like this first hand or even in pictures so it was hard for me to wrap my brain around the concepts.

I spent a good hour this morning going over and tracing each wire that is in place now and cable tying up the connectors that I now see will remain unused. In my case with an EFI harness off a '92 It is really only 2 clusters of connectors, off the intake and the sensors at the front of the motor. The connectors for Map sensor, Coil, ignitor will remain unconnected and are too short to be in the way.

I have the harness and ecm connectors through the firewall hopefully I can complete this. It makes more sense now that I have seen photos and have been given more information.

The farther I move with this project the more I am finding that there are modifications that need to be made that nobody ever talked about.

I now have to take a piece of 11ga steel 1.5" x 3" and drill 4 holes in it, add 2 new nuts/bolts to push the throttle cable bracket farther away from the throttle body toward the battery for proper cable adjustment. I tried swapping the bracket off the 1.3 EFI but it doesn't move the bracket away enough either. It leaves the cable loose and I won't get full use of the pedal.