Harbor Freight isn't working well with my schedule.. (I wonder if my JD2 will be here before the stupid nibbler..) so I started to tear into it tonight anyways..

Nice to actually have my rig fit in the shop..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic034.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic035.JPG

Pulled it in, then fired up the 80,000BTU propane heater for 15 minutes or so.. really took the chill off.. shut 'er down and had a comfortable night o' workin'.. I just need to find where I stashed the CD changer for the stereo.. sometimes the radio gets old (they don't play NIN, Metallica, Zombie, or any other fun music here..)

Virgin fender with the 33.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic037.JPG

Here's the passenger side with the 36.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_17_2002/DCP_0066.JPG


Started drawing out some curves..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic038.JPG

I tried to make a cardboard template, but that failed.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic039.JPG

I think I'm going to cut it at the 2.5" mark, then slit it and fold it over to the 3" mark.

That translates out to enlarging the wheel opening by about 3" all around.

Except at the top center, where it'll be raised about 2.5" and flat for a little ways.

This horizontal line is roughly were the inner fender shelf is.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic040.JPG

When the outer fender wouldn't come loose thanks to a stubborn bolt...

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic045.JPG

Too bad it made a heckuva racket.. but it did heat up the bolt enough that the next attempt with the wrench broke the bolt.

I had this fender off in '98.. but look at the junk.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic047.JPG

And on my clean shop floor, too!!

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic048.JPG

And here's the inner fender..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic049.JPG

Tossed my gloves on to make sure you can see the shelf.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic050.JPG

I measured the outermost edge of the inner fender to come out to just shy of 5" from the vertical wall.

I then broke out the aviation snips.

I cut a few slits in the outer / lower arch, then cut up both ends.

Once I got it free enough, I started using a hammer to flatten it out.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic051.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic052.JPG

I found it best to pull up on the outer edge while hitting at the bend.

I then taped off a line about 5" from the "wall" and snipped away.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic054.JPG

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic055.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic056.JPG

Another shot of the fender lookin' all innocent over to the side..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic058.JPG

Set the fender back in place - not quite "in place" since I didn't fight the door jamb n' such.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic059.JPG

This is looking UP at the new flat shelf inner fender with the outer sorta in place.

The black cracks in the "middle" are where the paint/dirt/mud cracked when I flattened it out.

The part I'm concerned about is where the shelf meets the outer fender, trying to keep that relatively "tight"

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic060.JPG

Looking to the rear/firewall. Next time I'll be more careful about cutting this out - it would've been nice to keep the shield for keeping mud out of the vents.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic061.JPG

Looking forward.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic062.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic063.JPG

Up and towards the rear again.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic064.JPG

Took the fender off, set the 36 in place..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic065.JPG

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic066.JPG

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic067.JPG

Firewall/rocker area. With my SUA and stock shackle setup, I don't think this will be a problem with just 36s.. in the future that might change though.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic068.JPG

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic069.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic070.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic071.JPG

Assuming the tape measure is about 2" tall I have about 7" of up-travel available here. The bump stops give about 6.5" of up-travel, but they're more inboard on the axle.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/pic072.JPG

I didn't start on the outer fender yet.

The plan is to cut it out at the 2.5" radius mark. Keep the top/center "flat" for a ways.

Then slit the lip in about 0.5" to the 3" mark.

In the center, fold the "flat" portion under and wrap it up against a piece of 1x1x.120 wall square tubing that I'll tack to the back of the fender.

On the curved portions, just fold it back over into a "V" shape.

Then ideally when I put the outer fender back on the box tube will sit over the modified inner fender shelf.

I can then run bolts up through the inner fender and into the box tube.

That should give the outer fender back some strength for when I lay it against a tree, plus it should keep it from flapping.

The remaining fender should be "small enough" or cut in the right manner that it shouldn't really flap (I hope).

Whaddya think? How am I doing? Should I cut more, cut less.. make a prettier arch to cut? (the garbage can lid isn't big enough..)

A few more pics and a slightly different write-up..
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_19_2002/fender_cut.html

Tom,

looks good, the inner fender shelf worked out okay i think, even though it's not as tight as you wanted against the outer fender. Tight is good!! :D

How are you going to shape the front trimming on the outer fender into the front grill area? I think a nice inflection point and radius it down around into just under the turn signal would work well and give you good lift.

When are ya gonna go soa on the front of Tigger? With the trimming you've done, soa on stock springs and shackles would fit those 36's NO PROBLEM. 2" body lift would do a LOT to clear them too, particularly that firewall thing...

Can't wait to see how the outer fender turns out; I'm sure you'll be back to post the results.

Sean

Originally posted by Bindernut
Tom,

looks good, the inner fender shelf worked out okay i think, even though it's not as tight as you wanted against the outer fender. Tight is good!! :D


The only parts I screwed up are the rear "mud guard".. I think it'll be a tighter fit when I put the fender fully in place. I tried to cut it "long" so I should have to trim a bit for final fitment.. plus it only needs to be close enough that I can get the 1" tubing over the inner shelf.



How are you going to shape the front trimming on the outer fender into the front grill area? I think a nice inflection point and radius it down around into just under the turn signal would work well and give you good lift.


Yeah, I need to figure that part out. I'd like a nice clean radius'd bend.

I think at the rear it should come down right about to the edge of the firewall hopefully avoiding a lot of work. I see a few test-fits in my future when I get to the very ends (bottom front, bottom rear).


When are ya gonna go soa on the front of Tigger? With the trimming you've done, soa on stock springs and shackles would fit those 36's NO PROBLEM. 2" body lift would do a LOT to clear them too, particularly that firewall thing...


A body lift would be helpful with some bigger tires.. but I need to replace the body mounts first.

My plan has been to make the 36s fit with 'no more lift" then I won't have to build the SOA around tires - just build it for clearance and flex. I want a nice low rig that won't flop over. :D

In any case, there's a line of things in front of the SOA even if I only count the stuff I want to do to Tigger.

Fix body mounts. Tub out the rear quarters and install all of my new sheetmetal (I have more or less a new tub from the firewall back except for one inner quarter that I'm keeping)

I want my doors to close, my tailgate to open, and I want to be able to put my steel top back on during the winter. :D

Wwith that done.. the other requirement is to finish building the new axles (or find a 60F). At the moment it looks like HP44 front/60 rear.

I *want* to do the front SOA.. but I want to do it once. And I want to be able to take full advantage of my toy when it's done - and that means putting the top back on and using the tailgate to load things again. :D


Can't wait to see how the outer fender turns out; I'm sure you'll be back to post the results.

Sean

Yep.. try to do some carving on it tonight and cross my fingers that it turns out half as nice as I hope it will. I've had poor luck making pretty things. :)

Thanks, Sean.

I'll be posting more pics..

-Tom

Tom,

How about riviting a thick piece of rubber, like a tire sidewall to the new inner fender "shelf", just bumped up against the fender.

I'm using Bushwhacker late model Dodge flares. I just made the templates today. I think all I gotta do is cut 'em 3/4" smaller than the flares and bend the lip in for a mounting flange.
For the rear I have '68 GMC wheelwells which are 38" long and bolt in on the floor. Got a tin bender friend whose gonna make whatever I need to attach the wheelwells to the outer fender. It won't have to be very neat 'cause the flares will cover it.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tsm1mt
(I wonder if my JD2 will be here before the stupid nibbler..)

Hey Tom
What model bender did you get? I bought the model 4 about a year ago and haven’t looked back yet. Also what size dies? I got
One 8inch radius 2inch (for roll bar and frame stuff)
One 6inch radius 2inch (for roll bar and frame stuff)
One 6inch radius 1.5inch (for steering and linkages)

The 2 inch dies put a perfect bend in 2”OD –DOM and put just as good a bend in 1.90 SCH 40

After doing a few projects with DOM and then a few with SCH, I will probably never use DOM again for cages. I just can’t see the benefits of DOM.

BTW: It took JD2 about 3 months to get the bender to me and then to boot the junction block on the motor had been mis-machined. However, They were very nice about replacing the part.

And one more Q: what Cylinder and pump will you be using??

Now back to fender chopping. I like the front so far, looks good! Do you have a plan of attack for the back yet? Allotta work to get 36’s in there with minimal lift.

Originally posted by cornfedred
[QUOTE]Originally posted by tsm1mt
(I wonder if my JD2 will be here before the stupid nibbler..)

Hey Tom
What model bender did you get? I bought the model 4 about a



Order the JD2 Model 3. Just a single 2" 6.5" die for the time being (I showed some restraint).

I see a 1.5" die in my future for sure - it's the largest size I can buy "off the shelf" at the local steel shop..

I'm going to use the 10T PortaPower I bought to run it. Hand-pump, resetting the cylinder and all. Probably be a big PITA.. but it's a start and I can work my way up to the foot switch and pump n' such..

$561 just for the bender n' die as it was..


The 2 inch dies put a perfect bend in 2”OD –DOM and put just as good a bend in 1.90 SCH 40


That's good to know. I can buy 1.5"/1.9 Sch40 all day long..

OTOH, the 1.5" Sch40 is $1.40/ft, while 1010 HREW 2"x.120 is $1.67 ft.


After doing a few projects with DOM and then a few with SCH, I will probably never use DOM again for cages. I just can’t see the benefits of DOM.


I hope I never have to find out the benefits of DOM. :D But I hope to order some 1020 for my racer's cage.


Now back to fender chopping. I like the front so far, looks good! Do you have a plan of attack for the back yet? Allotta work to get 36’s in there with minimal lift.

For now, in the back.. the bottom of the quarter is going to get trimmed back and then I'm going to re-install my bump-stops. :D

The springs will still be negative before I halt up-travel. I've already trimmed both wheel wells a fair bit - short of tubbing.

A little trimming and the 'stops will get me wheelin' on Sunday.

Can't wait to show up for the run.. most of the club is in the dark.

Last month - 33x12.50 ATs.. this run? 36" Swampers. Wheeee!

Later I want to cut out the tubs and stretch 'em to about 40" long. I think I can go that far (4" forward, 6" rear) without needing to rework the mid cab-mount and without relocating the fuel tank filler neck.

Call me lazy if you want.. :D I think a 40" tub will be big enough. Even if I wanted to go to 44s I could just raise the body a bit and/or stop up-travel before the tire if fully halfway into the tub.

That would definitely depend on me finding a 60 front though. At the moment it's looking like I'm building a HP44.

The shop looks good Tom. I also like the way you approached the inner fender, Lookin good. Gonna be ready for RMIHR??

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
The shop looks good Tom. I also like the way you approached the inner fender, Lookin good. Gonna be ready for RMIHR??

Thanks.

THIS modification will be ready by Sunday so I can go wheelin'. :D

Whether anything else happens to this rig before RMIHR.. *shrug* Might not even take it.

I want to do some work on my crewcab and take *it* to RMIHR. :)

Found out last night that the weekend of RMIHR is also the weekend of my GF's 10yr HS reunion.. d'oh!

Originally posted by scoutver5.7

How about riviting a thick piece of rubber, like a tire sidewall to the new inner fender "shelf", just bumped up against the fender.


That's not a bad idea.. I even have some of my "radiator mounting bushings" left over..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_13_2001/13.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_13_2001/15.jpg

:D

OTOH, I expect the tire will still rub against the outer edge of the "shelf" - square tube would provide some strength to the assembly WHEN that happens.

But the rubber isn't a bad idea.. even if just to help fill any gap.


-Tom

good work Tom,excellent pics and captions.:)

Damm Tom, I think you missed the links to a couple of pics:D

Looking good can't wait to see the finished product.

Joe

Originally posted by R O
good work Tom,excellent pics and captions.:)

Woo-hoo! Thanks! :D

First time I've attempted something like this.. I was a little nervous when I make the first few cuts with the snips. :D

yeah, I attacked chunks of the racer with the sawzall.. but that was "lightening" (or demolition of parts donors) and I never figured any of it was going back on.

I remember "I need to get behind the dash to get the ignition wired up.. argghh.. hmmm.. fawk it.. where's my prybar n' grinder? Who needs a dash!" :D

Hopefully the outer will turn out half as well as the inner did. I'm pretty happy with how that worked out.

Food for thought for others.. you might also be able to bend the shelf UP instead of just FLAT to gain another inch or two of clearance at the "outer edge". Especially useful with a wider front end.

Originally posted by jdjanda
Damm Tom, I think you missed the links to a couple of pics:D

Looking good can't wait to see the finished product.

Joe

Shoulda been up at 1am when I posted.. I DID forget a few pics. :D

Actually I took more - they're in the linked web-page, but some of them didn't show the Sharpie lines too well or just weren't all that useful.

Figured I'd share as many pics as I can to make it easier for everyone else. :D

We'll see how bad I can butcher the outer tonight.. might miss BinderChat even. :D

Very nice... I like what you've done with the front fenders. I gotta start cutting mine out... think I'm gonna do something to at least halfway match the back. Instead of leaving the inner fender intact as you have... I'm going to cut just the very front part off... and weld some tubing to it in 2 places... so basically I would have a tube front fender.. but the front plate is left so you can still mount your front clip to the body and still mount your fender to the front. Thats kind of confusing I guess.. I need to draw a diagram... basically no inner fenders, but theres still a little bit of support there.. not much. My batteries, etc. have been moved inside the cab... so I don't have to worry about having a place for them to sit... and anything else can just be mounted to the firewall. The only thing that bugs me about all the rest is the possibility of getting mud up in there... but guess I'll just hafta do more waterproofing..

Originally posted by ScoutsHonor
Instead of leaving the inner fender intact as you have... I'm going to cut just the very front part off... and weld some tubing to it in 2 places... so



The front (lower front corner) will probably end up goin' bye-bye before I'm done.. we'll see.


basically no inner fenders, but theres still a little bit of support there.. not much. My batteries, etc. have been moved inside the cab... so I don't have to worry about having a place for them to sit... and anything else can just be mounted to the firewall. The only thing that bugs me about all the rest is the possibility of getting mud up in there... but guess I'll just hafta do more waterproofing..

At this point in time, I'm not moving the battery, heater, et-al into the cab.

You WILL get mud into the engine. I ran a Mud-bog about a week or two after I put my new motor in..

When I came out of the pit there was a BLOCK of mud where my engine used to be.. $40 at the carwash I found the motor.. it was another $40 and 3 hours a week later before I got it halfway cleaned. :D

Ran fine though..

If you're going to ditch the inner fenders, you might as well go tilt front clip. That's how my racer's setup.

The hood, fenders, grille are bolted together like usual. The hood is welded to the fenders.

I then used rivets at the time (now I'd MIG it) to attach some .75x.75x.120 angle down both fenders at the top.

Where the grille and fenders bolt together I bolted some 1x1x.120 angle.

I then used more angle to go from the "grille uprights" to the "fender supports" to sorta bridge the corner gap.

I then added two stiffeners. One goes from the bottom of the "grille upright" to about 2/3 back to the firewall, attached to the fender support.

The other goes back maybe halfway then angles inboard to triangulate.

Some 1x1 box tubing runs from one side of the grille to the other. I then attached my hinges there.

Hood pins on the firewall.

I pull the two hood pins and the front clip tilts forward. I have cable "stops" to stop it just past 90-deg, but you can unhook 'em and open it 180-deg.

Need more room? Pull the bolts (which replaced the hinges pins) in the front, pull the hood pins, and lift it off.

Works very well for what it's used for.

but that rig doesn't have a heater or a windshield or a washer bottle.. the battery is on the passenger floor to offset some of the driver's weight.. etc.

Still, it would be quite convenient. Just a lot more work than I'm prepared to do this week. :D

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/tilt_clip_1/Image7.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/tilt_clip_1/wide_corner.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/tilt_clip_1/full_front.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/tilt_clip_1/opp_corner.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/tilt_clip_1/front_view.jpg

Still no nibbler...

So.. more with the shears..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic073.JPG

Problem is I have to keep stopping to use pliers to move the cut metal away..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic074.JPG

Backside.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic075.JPG

First hunk removed..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic076.JPG

Test fit.. make sure I'm on the right track..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic077.JPG

Got some more cut off the rear now..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic078.JPG

I stopped a little short in the lower rear corner - I wanted to try and retain both "bottom" mounting bolts.

Put the tire on..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic080.JPG

Some folks weren't clear on where the box tubing was going..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic081.JPG

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic082.JPG

I then proceeded to cut slits around the curved portion, then grab my linesman pliers..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic083.JPG

Test fits are GOOD..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic084.JPG

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic085.JPG

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic086.JPG

Because I wanted to keep the bottom mounting bolts, the firewall/inner fender / rocker area may be visible from the side.. I can always cut it up or beat it into submission with my sledge later I guess..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic087.JPG

The front, folded..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic088.JPG

The "shelf" - you can see where the inner shelf sits just under (or nearly so) the folded "L" lip where the box tube will go.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic089.JPG

Took a couple "wide views".. again, the fender isn't *quite* on - I didn't fight it into the door jamb.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic090.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic091.JPG

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic092.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic093.JPG

Here's the back side - see all the folded edges? Eventually all but the center will be folded into Vs.. but that's AFTER I apply POR-15 tomorrow..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic094.JPG

Shake can of 3M Weld-thru coating..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic096.JPG

and apply.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic097.JPG

Practice bad welding (really bad until I remembered to turn on the gas..)

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic098.JPG

Put it back on for another test fit.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic099.JPG

Here's how I did the front corner - again, kept both mounting bolts.
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic101.JPG

Unfortunately, while pulling the passenger tire off to pull the fender, I found a stripped wheel stud..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic102.JPG

Guess I'm pulling the rotor off tomorrow..

Got it down to the inner fender before I called it a night..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_20_2002/pic103.JPG

Wow that looks REALLY good. I'll be sure to bring my scout to you when it's my turn.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
Wow that looks REALLY good. I'll be sure to bring my scout to you when it's my turn.:flipoff2:

:D Thanks! I'm pretty happy with how it's turned out so far.. REALLY surprised my self. ;)

Of course, Rustoleum White emails me and tells me I now need to weld all of my little bent tabs back together, go over the whole thing with a flap-disk, and make it all look *really* perdy...

Meanwhile my GF came by last night to check on progress.. with a big frown, "You won't be done in time to go wheelin' Sunday!"

Oh YES I WILL. :D

I just hope the passenger side fender turns out this good..

I also told you to PULL THAT DENT!!!!


:flipoff2:

Tom,

instead of bending the edges over, get yourself some 1/2" steel split tube conduit, and bend to shape. then tack weld on. should cost under $10 for all 4 wheel wells

NQS

Originally posted by NotQuiteSane
Tom,

instead of bending the edges over, get yourself some 1/2" steel split tube conduit, and bend to shape. then tack weld on. should cost under $10 for all 4 wheel wells

NQS

Shhhh! that's round 2, Joe.

Sometime in the future.. (at least sometime after the Model 3 shows up) I want to chuck some 1" round tubing into the bender and make a flat-bottomed semi-circle much like I've already cut.

Then roll the fender around the tube.

use the tube for a strong backing, but it *won't* be bat-wing tube-fender-flare looking.. just a stock fender cut with a nice smooth radiused bend.

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
I also told you to PULL THAT DENT!!!!


:flipoff2:

What dent?? :D

You mean this one in the front fender?

http://walnut.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/77/test33s/19sm.jpg

I did..

see?

http://walnut.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/77/test33s/24sm.jpg

That was my first attempt at body work.. it involved putting the fender in the grass and beating on it with a rubber mallet until it was more or less back into shape.

I was pretty proud of that repair!!! :flipoff2:

Now you're going to make me look through the bins behind the garage and find my hammer n' dolly set I've never used..

Are you going to do the rears before sunday too? Or is that a project for another time?

Originally posted by TORC
Are you going to do the rears before sunday too? Or is that a project for another time?

Funny.. that's why she figured there was no way I was getting it done. :)

Back is getting the "easy" fix..

I'm cutting the bottom of the quarter off just behind the wheel well to eliminate the "fold under".

Then I'm putting my new bump stops in place and calling it DONE for the time being.

Tubbing out the rear is just TOO much work at this stage.

It can happen after the bender is here and I can rework the 4pt rollbar..

FINALLY my nibbler arrived.. COOL.

As expected, my air compressor isn't so happy about it..

Got the passenger side "done" in one night (vs two for the driver).

Used the sawzall on the inner.. short work.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic104.JPG

Then broke out the new nibbler for the outer. I had to use the snips at first to cut out the stock "L" lip - the nibbler didn't want to go around that bend..

Eye protection is not optional.. sure makes the metal chips fly!

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic105.JPG

Nice n' easy to make a sweeping curve, too.. not as loud as the sawzall on a vibrating flapping fender, and easier to control/see.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic106.JPG

After cutting and folding the tabs.. I wanted to see how close I came.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic107.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic108.JPG

Note that they're not standing up together "just so"..

In this pic they are tho'.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic109.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic112.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic113.JPG

Pretty darn close!! I couldn't believe it. The bottom/front corner on the passenger side needs a little more TLC.

This test fit I did fight the fender into the door area.. this is "it"..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic114.JPG

At Rustoleum's suggestion, I even welded up and ground down (somewhat.. wasn't going to spend all night) the slits back together.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic115.JPG

Only bummer was AFTER I managed to stuff the fender into my drill press, drill the holes, and weld the nuts to the back.. looks like the mounting setup won't quite work.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_21_2002/pic116.JPG

Plan B.

I'm going to weld some 1x1x.120 angle to the "back" side of the box tube. I'll drill it on the press FIRST. Then weld some 3/8" nuts to it.

Trim the inner fender shelf back another 1/2" or so so it'll be "inside/behind" the box tube. Then push the inner fender shelf up a bit more and bolt it to the angle. That'll leave a slight lip from the "shelf" to the wheel opening.

I need to clean up the welded slits on the driver's fender, test fit and determine how much to trim from its inner fender..

Break out the Acetone, wipe things down, and try out the POR15...

Bought the new wheel stud I need to fix the passenger side. Maybe i'll R&R that while I wait for the POR-15 to dry on Saturday (or I could try to get the paint down tonight and let it cure overnight)

Still need to trim the rear quarters just a bit.. but no big deal. Do that on Saturday when I can make as much racket as I want with the Sawzall. :D

Put some POR-15 on the fenders Friday night.. took pics on Saturday morning. I was in too much of a hurry and got sloppy - got some POR-15 on the outside of the outers.. :(

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0089.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0090.JPG

Got the driver's side on.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0097.JPG

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0098.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0099.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0102.JPG


My mounting tabs welded to the box tubing didn't work as planned - the welded nuts broke loose. Driver's side has two bolts that are still holding in there, but they're not threaded into the nuts.. passenger side I skipped it entirely. No flapping..

They put stick-on wheel weights on the inside of the rims..

I tried to grind enough off the caliper to make a difference, but I couldn't. They came off on the first revolution of the tire. :(

On the plus side, the unbalanced swampers weren't too bad on the highway at 40 and 55mph.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0103.JPG



All done, tire mounted...

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0105.JPG

I trimmed the rear quarters just a touch, but didn't get the bump stops installed.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0110.JPG

Everything went really well - got the wheel stud replaced, etc.

Right up until I tried to re-re-reuse my Gr8 hub bolts and tightened them with the butterfly impact.. snapped two. Thought "Fine, I'll run 4 bolts" and got out the torque wrench for the last four.. broke another. :(

Had to waste another hour getting some screw extractors, new bolts, and drilling out the remains of the old hub bolts. *sigh*

Stopped at the gas station to fuel up before the Sunday trail ride.. had enough light for a few pictures.

I wasn't sure the Scout would still look like this after another full day of me behind the wheel in the trees with snow. :D

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0114.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0115.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0116.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0117.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/2_22_2002/DCP_0118.JPG

And on the trail..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/trail_rides/2_24_2002/DCP_0165.JPG
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/trail_rides/2_24_2002/DCP_0168.JPG

For a while I had folds in the tires. I opened up the new RAD valves and aired down.. I kept looking for a bulge/ "pooch" in the tires but didn't really get one. I checked the pressure.. 3psi! Well.. let's try it..

THEN they developed folds in the sidewalls once I drove on 'em.

Worked GREAT right up until I got turned sideways on sheet ice and tried to turn around to go back and all of the 345 weight on the nose pointing downhill and side-hill caused me to lose both front beads.

10psi was fine for the rest of the day, but I was also at the back of the pack now (I WAS trail-leader, became "tail-gunner" when we turned around)

Only once did the tires rub!! And that was in the rear, when I went over a twisty up-hill section at the beginning. I expected the rears to rub at some point since I didn't get the bump-stops installed.. but the front cleared with no problems all day. Woo-hoo.

I think I'm going to be buying another pair of new tires though.. the siped new tires on the front definitely seem to work better than the 'wear-bar" unsiped rears do.. oh well. :D

-Tom