Picked up a newer ball joint style D60HP last night, 4:10 gears and such. It has the dually hubs and drivers side drop. It will be going into the front of my 74 FJ40, with stock t-case. Looking at different t-case options, wheel options, and so on. I currently have a set of 38's on it on 15" wheels. Want to get to about 65"'s wide. Looking at a 14B rear to match things up

1. Easiest way to convert to 6 lug 15" wheel? Or just stay 8 lug?

2. Keep the ball joints or get some king pin style outers, or ..? Opinions for high steer options with the ball joint style outers.

3. Should I keep it drivers side drop and get a t-case to match, or cut it up for a pass side drop, experiences?

4. And any other useful information, except for the obligatory :flipoff2: Newbie!

Thanks!

Originally posted by Red FJ
Picked up a newer ball joint style D60HP last night, 4:10 gears and such. It has the dually hubs and drivers side drop. It will be going into the front of my 74 FJ40, with stock t-case. Looking at different t-case options, wheel options, and so on. I currently have a set of 38's on it on 15" wheels. Want to get to about 65"'s wide. Looking at a 14B rear to match things up

1. Easiest way to convert to 6 lug 15" wheel? Or just stay 8 lug?

2. Keep the ball joints or get some king pin style outers, or ..? Opinions for high steer options with the ball joint style outers.

3. Should I keep it drivers side drop and get a t-case to match, or cut it up for a pass side drop, experiences?

4. And any other useful information, except for the obligatory :flipoff2: Newbie!

Thanks!

man you just picked up a big HEADACHE! 1st.You can convert dually hubs to get the "regular" width 2nd. I don't know of ANYONE who uses these types of 60 front they often get the desired "Kingpin" style. 3rd.you can use d-side droop if it's a trail rig. 4th. If I was you sell this 1 and get the "kingpin" style you can do a lot with those..... :D

How are you going to run a drivers side drop 60 in a Cruzah with the stock xfer case? Sell it and get the right set up for your application.....:skull:

the ball jount style is way weaker than the king pin style. you still have u-joints but they are little bitty ones that fit in side the ball. and a 14 bolt rear on 38s? out here in the west we would be dragging that thing across every trail tearing up rocks even high centering alot! how about a king pin 60 front and a Dana 70 for the rear? i woulnt run that closed knuckle 60 imo

Mossberg, he said ball joints - not closed knuckle. Go here
http://www.wagonermachine.com/5_lug_dana_60_hubs.htm
for 5-lug hubs. They'd probably do 6 lug for a little extra.

BTT


What about chopping it up for the rear axle, since this one is so undesirable? Any ideas there to make it full floater?

I would sell it, but couldn't I use for the rear? If I were to do that, I would want to convert to a full floating rear. Can anyone help me here, as to which parts to get etc. Really don't want to sell it, not for what I got it for!

Originally posted by Shaker


man you just picked up a big HEADACHE! 1st.You can convert dually hubs to get the "regular" width 2nd. I don't know of ANYONE who uses these types of 60 front they often get the desired "Kingpin" style. 3rd.you can use d-side droop if it's a trail rig. 4th. If I was you sell this 1 and get the "kingpin" style you can do a lot with those..... :D

What the fawk ? ... Live spindle 60s are all over the place... Don't let these guys spook ya...
We use them front or rear around here.
I made hi-steer arms for mine, and I moved the pig to the passenger side. I had 8 lug on the rear, so I stayed with it...

really! a ball joint 60 may be weaker than a kingpin but as long as you have 35 spline shafts you're fine. the 60 under my cummins dodge (piece of crap small shafts and all) is rated for a gcvw of 18000lbs, you won't break it. I would avoid any newer sixties with unit bearings, can't repack em and they are pricey.

You could make a rear if it is from a ford (high pinion) and sell the outers, you could use it for the front and retube it for a passenger side diff or you could run it as is and get an atlas and whatever trans you want for the drivers side drop. I don't know how built your cruiser is what width wheelbase and height you want to be etc so it is hard to give good advice, but if all the brakes and wheel bearings etc are in usable condition you got a fine deal. If it was me building myself a cruiser I would put it in as is and run some hummer rims on the dually hubs. For the rear I would get a fullwidth non dually 60 to keep the rear a bit narrower than the front. I would run a SBC Th350 and atlas. But that is what I would do for west coast use. Your needs are probably different.

Originally posted by mytzlflick
really! a ball joint 60 may be weaker than a kingpin but as long as you have 35 spline shafts you're fine. the 60 under my cummins dodge (piece of crap small shafts and all) is rated for a gcvw of 18000lbs, you won't break it. I would avoid any newer sixties with unit bearings, can't repack em and they are pricey.

I thought all ball joint 60s were live spindle (unit bearing)...
Is this not true ?

Ford did not start with the unit bearing front hub arrangement until '99 with the snooperdoopy.
Pre-snooperdoopy F350's had ball joint 60's with regular taper roller bearing hubs....... in fact they are exactly the same as the Dana50 TTB brakes and hubs from the lighter duty F250's (meaning that you could un-dual your front with these)

It was around 91 when Ford started with the ball joint front 60's....... prior to that they had Kingpin knuckles (like Dodge +Chev...... except with a different Stub axle and Ford brakes)

As it is I would stay with the Eight lug.........It seems backwards to me to modify a perfectly good wheel hub just to keep some Rims.........

Ball joints started on the Ford 60s the same time as the body change, 92. Now of course in Ford fashion you can find ball jointed 60sjust before the switch late 91s, and you can find king pins in early 92.

Has it really been 10 years ? ... I gotta get out more often

keep the axle and build as nice front out of it. have a machine
shop drill out the welds holding the tubes into the housing. press
them out, and shorten/reverse the tubes as required. keep the
ball-joint parts... (unless you're planning on running 42+ size tires
and alot of steering boost) you should be just fine on 38's, and
some common sense.

You'll be needing some reg-front bearing hubs though... I just
happen to have a spare pair I'll let go for $125.00 You might
be able to sell your dually front wheel-hubs later to recoup
that cost.

--Sherpa send me a pm if you're interested in those hubs..

If the dually hubs are interchangeable with the pre '92 king pin style hubs I'll swap you single wheel hubs for the dually hubs even up. You pay shipping to me and I pay shipping to you.