: voltage regulator output


thomaskeefer
02-21-2002, 07:56 AM
Anyone hve experience cranking up the output of the stock voltage reg? I heard that you can bend an 'adjustment rod' inside?? help!!
thanks a bunch:)

Pin Head
02-21-2002, 11:58 AM
Originally posted by thomaskeefer
Anyone hve experience cranking up the output of the stock voltage reg? I heard that you can bend an 'adjustment rod' inside?? help!!
thanks a bunch:)

Back in the old days of generators, you had to adjust the voltage regulator by adjusting the arm or the spring tension on the relay. You probably can still adjust it that way, but it is probably easier to just replace the regulator because there is no guess work. You don't want it any higher than 14.7 V or you will be boiling electrolyte out of your battery.

thomaskeefer
02-24-2002, 05:05 PM
thanks alot!!!

yoda
02-26-2002, 12:03 PM
Its been a while since I was rebuilding alternators, but there used to be aftermarket regulators that had an adjustment screw. We used to install these on certain vehicles, then cover the adjuster so the owner wouldn't mess with it later. It could be adjusted up too high and damage electronics.

David :usa:

burnt03
04-14-2005, 02:30 PM
Going to have to revive this old thread....

I'm having some overcharging problems. I changed out the voltage regulator and then the alternator (lights don't dim when I turn on the heater anymore now :D ) Ammeter has been bouncing all over the place.

With the new volt regulator - 16V at idle
Put old regulator back in - about 15V at idle

Someone on mud mentioned that they had the same problem and it was solved by adjusting the voltage regulator. I'm not exactly clear on what I'm supposed to bend and which way. Could someone look at this pic and sketch it out for me??

Thanks!!

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/268000-268999/268833_77_full.jpg

Pin Head
04-14-2005, 03:28 PM
The FSM has a picture showing how to do it. There is a metal tab at the base that a spring attaches to that you bend with needle nose pliers. Less spring tension is lower voltage. The needle jumping is pretty normal with mechanical regulators. You could also get a solid state regulator from NAPA or the junk yard. I think that Chrysler products use them.

burnt03
04-14-2005, 04:46 PM
I see my pic didn't work, whoops.

Ok, I fiddled w/ the little spring deal a bit and got the voltage down. It's about 13.4 at idle and as high as 15 at high idle with no electrical load.

Is that back down into normal parameters?

Also, how can I check my battery? It's been running at high volts for quite a while so I imagine it's taken quite a beating.

Pin Head
04-14-2005, 05:32 PM
As long as it will maintain 13.8 V with a normal load, like the headlights on, you are OK. If it is a lead acid battery, check the specific gravity of the electrolyte and add water if necessary

burnt03
04-14-2005, 06:40 PM
It doesn't seem to want to maintain a set voltage, it is constantly fluctuating between approx 13.5-14.5.

Along with this I'm getting lights that are dimming and brightening.

Is this something that might be solved with a solid state regulator or could the flickering be because of a fragged battery? Oh yeah, I wired up the relays to the headlights today and that didn't change the flickering.

Thanks again PH, I really appreciate all your advice.

Pin Head
04-14-2005, 07:49 PM
The lights are flickering because the voltage is. Welcome to the world of mechanical voltage regulators. Solid state regulators are steady. I doubt the battery is toast unless it spit all its acid out. They aren't supposed to flicker that much, but it isn't unusual. It isn't going to hurt anything. The people driving ahead of you will think you are a couple of motorcycles.