Does anyone have measurements (especially taper) and pictures of the wagoneer pitman arm and the YJ pitman arm?


(I'm going with a high steer set up and using Avalanche Arms. They recommended to use the wagoneer pitman arm but I wanted to see the differnence between the two first. Thinking it might be easier to re-taper the YJ than find one in a junkyard. A picture of the waggy arm so I can find one in the junkyard if the YJ re-taper proves to be not an option.)

No measurements, but I re-tapered my YJ arm to fit the larger waggy joint with a Unibit and it worked slicker than snot... Actually, it wasn't a stock arm, but the 3" dropped pitman arm that comes with the RE 4.5 XD kit... Anyhoo, I don't see any reason why you couldn't do the same with a stock arm.

Just make sure you do a lot of test-fitting as you drill a little at a time so you don't go too far.

HTH,
Jake

:beer:

Do you remeber what size bit it was? I found:

Unibit I - 13 1/8" to 1/2" TMT-UN1 $20.50
Unibit II - 6 3/16" to 1/2" TMT-UN2 $21.50
Unibit III - 9 1/4" to 3/4" TMT-UN3 $38.50
Unibit IV - 12 3/16" to 7/8" TMT-UN4 $45.50

For those prices, might be cheaper to get a pa from the jy! Any MD Jepers own the kit?





:beer:

Originally posted by RSQJEEP
Do you remeber what size bit it was? I found:

Unibit I - 13 1/8" to 1/2" TMT-UN1 $20.50
Unibit II - 6 3/16" to 1/2" TMT-UN2 $21.50
Unibit III - 9 1/4" to 3/4" TMT-UN3 $38.50
Unibit IV - 12 3/16" to 7/8" TMT-UN4 $45.50

For those prices, might be cheaper to get a pa from the jy! Any MD Jepers own the kit?

:beer:

I can't remember for certain, but I'm pretty sure it was the Unibit III I got mine from Harbor Freight for around 30 bucks... But you're right... you'd almost be better off buying a new arm to fit your application. I already had the arm (came with my suspension kit) and I already had the Unibit, so I just did what came naturally. :D

If you do use the unibit method, make sure you use plenty of thread cutting oil and a drill press or you're in for a helluva chore...

Good luck,
Jake

This topic seems fairly similar to the one I had a few days ago and got no reposnses..... Yall don't like me or something? :D

I think the reason that Avalanche wants you to use the waggy arm is because it a 1" longer than the CJ,YJ arm and you will get a tighter turning radius with it.

Can't help you with the taper, I use big arse GM draglink TRE's and had to taper mine even larger :flipoff2:

HTH