Just looking for some feedback on having my tie-rod above the springs before I mount my ram, still need to adjust some things but the hi-steer is done, seems to clear everything (not by much) but can always go back to my old tierod. For those of you that run hi-steer, have you run into any problems that I should watch out for? Do anything different?

http://coloradok5.com/temp/histeer3.jpg

after I went histeer I could barely turn my wheel, as I lost tons of leverage by pulling the draglink from the OEM spot to on top but and less leverage....just bought some arms from Avalanche, they're the cheapest on the market that advertise a price and give you great options for distance.....it you go full hydro keep the OEM mounts and top mounts then tie them together as your going to have serious force at play now....

This is way off the subject but why ae your bumpstops so BIGGGG!!

I was planing on running th smallest bumpstops possible...

not trying to be an ass...just a curious jerk:D

I thought they looked a little big myself, I ordered them over the phone and that's what showed up. They are real soft though and should compress easily.

my steering is VERY tough with the hi-steer, so bad I got hydro assist :p

Do you have to remove the new crossmember to take off your oil pan now? What kind of arms are you using? ORD?

Ryan

Here are a couple pix of mine-my upper control arm mounts are right on the spring pads of a GM D60 front, so the clearance is very similar to yours:

Histeer1 (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/realsquash/vwp2?.tok=bccBYQPBEWi3CT3w&.dir=/Yahoo!+Photo+Album/S10Buildup&.dnm=highsteer2.jpg&.src=bc)
Histeer2 (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/realsquash/vwp2?.tok=bccBYQPBLjj59iYL&.dir=/Yahoo!+Photo+Album/S10Buildup&.dnm=highsteer10.jpg&.src=bc)

I used a 2x8 cylinder, avalanche arms and spacers, the ram is right on top of the axle mounted with 3/4" heims. I used the second hole out on the arms, I might end up moving it all out to the next hole, but I *really* like the clearance i've got now.

And don't mind the black ironium agua pipage, that's all for mock-up.

Squash

Brandon - How do you like hi-steer with hydro assist?

PJCTPW - I don't have to remove the crossmember to drop the pan, plenty of room. New crossmember (http://coloradok5.com/moocrossmember.shtml)
I am using Avalanche arms.

Realsquash - I have my tierod mounted on the 2nd hole out as well, I am thinking about mounting the ram in the sam location as yours, bout the only place I can mount it.

The way I've got mine set up is ,IMHO, optimum. The ram is most protected, the tierod is way up and out of the way, close to the axle. You could avoid some problems by using a shorter ram, say 7". With my setup, I use only 6" of travel out of the cylinder. Both clevises on the cylinder are way too long for this application, and about 1/2" could be cut off of the shaft. So if you got the right ram, you would be way fine. I've got more pix if you'd like to see them.

Squash

how did you get your arms so hi? I got spacers under mine and I still can't use the second hole due to spring clearance..

Haven't driven it with the assist yet, too busy with other stuff right now (damn heep)

Those of you who say you lost leverage when you went to highsteer must have screwed up the steering arm ratios. Either your highsteer arms are too short or your pitman arm is too long.

I am using 1-ton GM (ES2026R) and they sit up in the arm's quite a bit more then the 1/2 ton ends would, this is how I can clear the springs. Below is a pic of the 2026 above and a 1/2 ton (forgot the number) below, you can see that the 2026 is more of a high angle.
http://coloradok5.com/temp/rodends.jpg

Dont taper the TRE too deep, and dont run sooooo much caster, and dont run such archie springs. Tie rod should clear ok.....
Also, try to keep the drag link as parallel to the tie rod as possible if you plan on steet driving.....

P.S. I dont see anything wrong with the size of the bump stops.

Originally posted by coloradok5
I am using 1-ton GM (ES2026R) and they sit up in the arm's quite a bit more then the 1/2 ton ends would, this is how I can clear the springs. Below is a pic of the 2026 above and a 1/2 ton (forgot the number) below, you can see that the 2026 is more of a high angle.
http://coloradok5.com/temp/rodends.jpg


Just a little FYI......

Those are BOTH 1/2 ton TREs (and 3/4 ton, and 1 ton). The upper one is a drag link end and the lower one is a tie rod end.

Yep, your right, thanks

What brand of diff gaurd is that? I looks nice and strong.

Originally posted by Ben W
Those of you who say you lost leverage when you went to highsteer must have screwed up the steering arm ratios. Either your highsteer arms are too short or your pitman arm is too long.

I'll second that! You just can't go slapping this part or that part on because it clears things without paying attention to the pitman arm to steering arm ratio.