New Corp4ff 1410 pinion yoke install ??

[Doug Grant]

Ok, got a new rear driveline made by High Angle Driveline. I opted to swap out the stock strap style 1350 rear Corp14ff pinion yoke for one of HAD's 1410 u-bolt style yokes. Here is my question, in an article Billa Vista wrote detailing the swap, he says that his is a trail rig. As a result, he doesn't worry about the pinion pre-load. However, he qualifies that statement by saying that if you run the street, he recommends doing what the manual suggests. So, I print out the section of the manual on setting the pre-load. My queston is, will simply measuring the amount of ft. lbs. it takes to back off the pinion nut, then add 1-5 lbs. of additional torque when I swap out the yoke, be good enough to take the pre-load back to the original spec? And, if I just had the diff rebuilt with all new stuff, will I need to swap anything new in or can I just leave it as is?

I also see in the manual that they use a special tool that bolts to the yoke. What the heck is that thing? Is that simply a bar that keeps the yoke from moving while you back off the nut? And, why would you need it if the pinion won't turn anyway?

[bggrnchvy]

Im pretty sure you are going to need a new pinion nut as they are a yield type fastener. Also you are not supposed to use a torque wrench to break fasteners, even if you are measuring as, either way, it won't give you a good reading and could damage the accuracy of the instrument.

[overkill48]

Take some touch up paint or some white out and mark a line across the pinion nut and the pinion to mark the "index" of the nut to the shaft remove the nut replace the yolk you can knock it off with a hammer or use a steering wheel puller to pull the yolk off install the new yolk put loctite on the nut and tighten the nut till its tight and the paint mark lines up then tighten it up just a little bit more just enough to offset the paint line and your good to go.

[u2slow]

You can grind a notch across the threads on the pinion. After you have the nut on as tight as you want, peen the edge of the nut into the groove with a punch.

[KWTMECH]

Pull the 6 bolts out that hold the pinion housing in place and take it to someone that can do it right with a new crush sleeve and nut. A good shop can do it in less than 1/2 hour.

[Doug Grant]

Well, I have to have a new front driveshaft built. I was going to drive it over to Bayshore Truck and have them fab one up and slap it in. Maybe I'll just tow it over and have them do the rear hook up while I'm there. I already attached the new HAD adapter to the TC and bolted up the front of the shaft. I'd rather err on the side of caution and do it right.

[HeyBeerMan]

This weekend I just installed new 5.13's in my 14bolt. After brakeing a Husky breaker bar, I got out my long Snap On with a 2' cheater. I would guestimate it took 500 ftlb to get that thing to crush to tolerance. I would bet you can tourqe the pinion down and not change the crush sleave at all.


beerman