I am trying to decide which axles to run on my set-up, here are some details: Early cj5 that will be wheeled hard, but, I am only going to run a 35 Krawler tire. I want to keep it low and light, I am hoping to keep the weight around 2500lbs. I will be running the Dauntless, sm420, and Dana300. I have either narrow trac waggy 44's or wide trac cj 30 and rear flanged 44 from a commando. I was really considering the super 30 front with arb and detroit rear in the flanged 44 or should I just build the waggy 44's. I want to keep it narrow so I can pick more lines on the trail. What do you think? Will the super30 and flanged commando 44 hold up with chromo shafts? Thanks...

Jess

My 30 is in the shop getting a new R&P put in,after I get all my other projects done I will look for a front 60 to narrow.

If it were me, given you are running a V6 and the SM420 I'd probably look at the Waggies or a set of Scout 44s (Cheap, same bolt pattern as the CJ) to swap under it. The Scout axles will re-align the D300 with the rear axle (i.e. both are centered, waggy would be better if you were keeping the D18).

Just my spin.

r@m

[QUOTE=Jess Williams What do you think? Will the super30 and flanged commando 44 hold up with chromo shafts? Thanks...

Jess[/QUOTE]

The D30 is wide track and the rear D44 from a Commando is narrow track. You would be running some nice sized wheel spacers to get the right width. :barf:

I've seen a couple of dana 30's kill the ring and pinion with much less tire then a 35" crawler... no way I would run one even with the super 30 kit. I don't think a dana 44 can way a whole lot more then a 30 and the extra beef on the ring and pinion would be worth it. Or you could always get some toyota axles.

yeah i'll second the toyota axles suggestion if you can get your hands on some. the perch width is real close to what the frame width is i think...i've got a 2A and i know the measurements are real close. They've got the centered rear to match your dana 300, common six lug rims, ability to handle 35s, spring perches on top of the axle, and plenty of parts availability/upgrades. They are 55" from wms-wms so they aren't a whole lot wider than whats already under the jeep, so it'll stay agile. Otherwise go with the waggys.

Go Toys with a welded rear third. Good clearance, Strong, Light & already have good gear ratio for 35s.

If it were me, given you are running a V6 and the SM420 I'd probably look at the Waggies or a set of Scout 44s (Cheap, same bolt pattern as the CJ) to swap under it. The Scout axles will re-align the D300 with the rear axle (i.e. both are centered, waggy would be better if you were keeping the D18).

Just my spin.

r@m


What makes you ASSume that the rear Waggy D44 is offset ?

What makes you ASSume that the rear Waggy D44 is offset ?
Aren't all narrow track waggies offset rear? If not, feel free to correct.

r@m

Aren't all narrow track waggies offset rear? If not, feel free to correct.

r@m


Nope. NT D44's in Waggies were there through 1979. Not all Waggies used
the QT T-case, which would need the offset rear.

Most of the Waggie rears are offset but like in my case 1987 and I believe 88 rears are centered with like a one inch pinion offset to the passenger side.

I like the Yota axle idea myself. Hell, at the very least, it's cool and different. And also, flat top knuckles for crossover and drop out thirds for easy access. Plus, it sounds like you won't have to take the time to outboard the springs with the close perch width.

Do Toy axles weigh less than D30/D44's?

I've been secretly pondering this. I'd like to build a light weight flat fender to be the arch nemasis of my 1ton Wagoneer.

If I remember right, Blame Canada on this board has Toy axles under his CJ.

Even '79 and older Waggies with the Dana 20 tcase (really rare) had an offset rear axle. It's not as far offset as those with Qtrac, but offset more than the centered 44's found in mid-86-91 Waggies.

The offset was necessary to keep the rear driveshaft out of the gas tank for those few, non-Qtrac '79 and older Waggies.

Thanks for the help and opinions. What year model Toy axles do I need to look for? What is the common gear ratio on the Toy axles? I do want to keep it light and narrow to a point, but, I know a little extra width will help out on the offcamber stuff. I have been pondering the idea of maybe competing with this rig in the 35 tire class here on the east coast if it works good. Thanks again...

Jess

Well, if I remember right, you would want any 79-85 front 8" Toy axle but 84-85 are more desirable for the factory trussing. I believe all were 4.10 in the early years. Try and score a matching rear and bolt in a V6 third member from a later model 8".

I have roughly the same rig: short WB CJ-5 (stretched to 94"+), 4.3TBI, SM465, D20 with D18 twinstick guts. I have pass offset front and rear. I am running 36" IROK's on 16.5 H1, re-centered wheels. I want to learn to rock crawl with this setup, and my desire is to keep it light and simple.

To that end I decided on a set of Waggy 44's, but built up. I bought the axles for $60ea, with the front having flat top knuckles. I converted to high steer using FS cheb TRE's via Scott @ Rockstomper. 4.88:1 Yukon gears, ARB's on both axles. I found a nice set of Warn alloy shafts for the front (both inners and outers) right here, on PBB used. I converted the rear to disk brakes using post '88 Cheb 1/2ton front disks and calipers. I fabbed my own caliper mount because of the funky 11mm thread required.

To help with dividing the load for the rear axle, I converted to full float from Mitchell Differential (http://mitchelldifferential.com/pages/3/index.htm). Moser alloy shafts, all the same bearings as the front, which is cool. I am bending 1 1/4" tube for anti-wrap now.

Oh, BTW, I am usiing 7-leaf Waggy front springs on all fours with SOA. Spring width front and rear is 31.5"

Good luck -

To help with dividing the load for the rear axle, I converted to full float from Mitchell Differential (http://mitchelldifferential.com/pages/3/index.htm). Moser alloy shafts, all the same bearings as the front, which is cool. I am bending 1 1/4" tube for anti-wrap now.

First time I've seen Mitchell Diff.

They make FF kits for any axle or just waggie or? Their web site was not clear about that.

r@m

First time I've seen Mitchell Diff.

They make FF kits for any axle or just waggie or? Their web site was not clear about that.

r@m

When I worked with them on getting this kit, they needed all the critical dims. Especially the hole dims of the flange and axle lengths. Which tells me they custom-order the Moser shafts, and machine the spindle housings. But the fit/finish was tight and they saved me lots of time. But now that I've seen it, I could probably have them machined and ordered shafts for about the same cost. While the axle turned out expensive, it is light and stout; I'm not worried about the load the 36" tires will supply.

BTW, I had to turn the inside of the rotors to clear the spindle housing. While that was done, I also added a shear pin to keep the rotor fixed.

:cow:

what about custom 9" front and rears those should be pretty light also

Pretty good.

They are competitive with Warn's FF but if they will make a FF kit for any axle then that would be a good draw.

Not sure why this has been moved either...certainly more relevant tech than "J".

r@m

I think it was moved because it veered off from swapping Chevy, AMC, or International parts and the great gods of the so called Jeep forum would not trail rate it like their Liberties.

I think it was moved because it veered off from swapping Chevy, AMC, or International parts and the great gods of the so called Jeep forum would not trail rate it like their Liberties.
Get over yourself. I really doubt that is the reason.

r@m