Just bought an old (1987 I think) Warn 8274.

Commencing a total strip down and rebuild - will be doing an article.

Called Warn and got exploded parts diagram.

need to know:

- type of lubricants and where?
- anyone have an "owners manual" that could be scanned in?
- for testing solenoids - procedure is just to apply 12v to small terminal, ground other small terminal, and check for continuity between the 2 large studs?
- stupid quaestion - can I use my battery charger for the 12v source? (scary how ignant i am of electrons!)
- How do I remove the motor? It isn't obvious and I don't want to force it.

Thanks

Oh, This should be a interesting article...lol

Hey BV, just F'n widga...

While you are gathering 8274 info. I need to know if anyone has fixed one that jumps out of gear at real heavy loads.
I'm thinking it might be a bent shift fork or a detent, if it is i could pull the shifter and fix it easy...if not, it will have to wait until I get some ambition...

BV just start taking things off. they are a pretty simple machine...

Oh, This should be a interesting article...lol
:D :D

LOL

Yea - I wonder how overly complicated and uselessly technical I can make it !:p

At least I'll take a bazillion pics, and it might help you sort out what's up with yours!

It's simple? that's my problem.....now I'm bound to break something :flipoff2:

For my M8000, Warn says use use any Molly Lube base grease or High Temp Brake grease. The 8274 is different to some extent cuz it has an oil bath that takes 6 ounces of SAE 30 (non-detergent) oil, but for the other parts the Molly Lube is probably the thing to use.
The 12v charger wouldn't hurt anything but it might not have the amps needed to turn it. However, since you'll be testing at no load, it might have enough amps.
Another tricky point on the M8000 that might or might not apply to the 8274 - the solenoid pack has to be grounded to the motor chassis for it to work. I tested mine on my table and thought it wasn't working but when I put it back on the jeep it worked. Then I disconnected the solenoid pack from the base and just held it and it didnt work again, so that's why I think it needs to be grounded.
On the electrical stuff, there's a guy named Willis on (whisper) jay ewe who has an 8274 and seems to know his stuff. I think I've seen a Willis post on this board once in a while but I'm not sure if its the same guy.

Here's a couple links that might help, with some good pictures.

8274 rebuild (half) http://www.blueox.demon.co.uk/Ibex/winch.htm

9000 rebuild http://www.jonfund.com/winchteardown.html

Bill,

To remove the motor, remove the two bolts (mine had screw heads) from the end of the motor.

Then remove the pull knob and it's base.

Then pull the motor out (small gear on motor's shaft will come out too)

I just tore mine completely down and replaced the pinion shaft and cam gear (there are two cam gears).

And while it was completely apart, I painted the whole thing.

Charly......

What kind of pre-paint prep did ya use, and what kind of paint / colour? Did you do primer first?

I was thinking of polishing everything and just coating with clearcoat??

Well, I just finished it.

I lightly roughed the aluminum, then used a primer (recommended by Masterchem, the makers of Hammerite) called Kilz 123 (or something like that).

Then used Hammerite -smooth, flat black-, let that cure for 10 days, then used Aervoe's #987 WWII OD.

All in all, a lot of work. I hope it holds up.

Just a warning, make sure the 3 bolts that hold the top half of the case on (the ones you would have to remove to check the oil level) are tight. I lost one of mine, and another had backed out--end result was broken parts (as I recall, the pinion gear broke in half, among other things, and I had to replace the top aluminum part with some of the gears in in. Total cost was ~250 in parts).

As for the painting, I'd suggest you just chrome the dickens out of it. Or maybe gold. :flipoff2:

Pete

If you go here: http://extranet.warn.com/internetApps/ReplacementParts.nsf/findpart?OpenForm&SRWinches you can find a exploded view and a parts list with part# from Warn. Don't know if it will be any different/more usefull than what you already have??

That's a cool link Jason !

Charly,
1) Pics...we want pics !!!!!!

2) - Did you drop the gears from either the upper or lower housing? Worth the bother? What's the trick.

So far - everything looks good - all solenoids are good too. Haven't tested the motor off the winch yet - don't want to make the armature jump out of the housing, doh!

http://www.dsiwarn.com/service_parts.htm

got this from a similar thread that i started i think form 92xj

DSI is where I got my new pinion shaft/cam gear from. It was sealed in bag when I got it, but it was covered in surface rust, it appears that whomever packages these things is not aware of cosmoline. The thing cost $90 too.

I removed the gears from the lower case (top case was in fine shape so I just cleaned it).

First you must remove the brake assembly. Be careful to catch all the ballbearings in there (they are held in with grease/assembly lube).

Then you need to hammer the pinion shaft out from the inside of the case. Use a brass punch. You will need to holdup a locking plate that keys to the shaft at the same time (not as hard as it sounds). You will be pushing the cam gear out, and it will push the brass bushing and seal out ahead of it. This is the shaft the intermediate gear rides on, so it will be easily removed after that.

Then pull the drum out of the lower case (the other mounting end has to be removed to remove the drum, of course). With the drum removed, the drum drive gear can easil be pulled from the case.

The drum rides on bushings, and the case end has a plastic thrust washer and a seal.

It's actually super simple to tear down and put back together.

It's one of the things I like most about it. It's user serviceable.

I do have some pics of it back together, but no way to post them.

Oh, and I was looking for the wiring diagram for the solenoid to female remote plug wiring....I didn't take pics of that before I tore it down, and now I can't remember where the three wires go. Anyone have that...or pics?

Thanks,

Charly

Charly,

Good description. I figured the locking plate - just didn;t want to hammer the shaft blindly :)

What did you use for the ball bearings and other wear surfaces? I'm thinking of a anti-sieze for everything that wers except regular synth grease in the brake pawl, and of course 30 wt in the gearbox.

pics of wiring inbound to your mail

some preliminary pics

http://billyxj.tripod.com/winch/8274.htm

Dirtrod....anal enough for ya, or should I add a little more detail and take more pics :flipoff2: ;)