Alright, I got the knuckle off.

What do I need to do to get the lower grease cup and whatnot out?

My best guess is that I need to tap it out from the inside out (from the axle shaft towards the ground).

You will need a hammer and a set tool to knock the race out.You will need to pound on it around the edges from the "inside" side of the knuckle like what it sounds like you are thinking.The dust cover will be demolished..But that is why a new one comes in the kit.. You may have to beat the crap out of it because sometimes the race can be a little stubborn.:Hope this helps.D

Hitting it didn't work for me. I had to go to the Zone and rent a ball joint puller/press. It worked eazy-peazy.

J. J.

Originally posted by Mo
Alright, I got the knuckle off.

What do I need to do to get the lower grease cup and whatnot out?

My best guess is that I need to tap it out from the inside out (from the axle shaft towards the ground).

Man, was that thing sitting in a swamp:flipoff2: really I would suggest just getting some type of a puller, should come out pretty easy:D

Swamp? It's just wet from the liberal dousing of PB Blaster. You should see the crud that came off. Here in the Rust Belt, PB blaster is one of the more commonly used tools. :D

Alright, so I'm thinking pressing it out... I'll be trying a big ass C clamp tomorrow. Then clean everything with a wire wheel, put it back together, and do the other side.

Originally posted by Mo
Then clean everything with a wire wheel

dont forget

http://www.zerorust.com/zrgallon.gif

or somthing similer

Originally posted by Mo
Swamp? It's just wet from the liberal dousing of PB Blaster. You should see the crud that came off. Here in the Rust Belt, PB blaster is one of the more commonly used tools. :D



Man now that sucks...to be on the rust belt that is...I thought it was bad here...guess I have nothing to complain about:D

I actually made a die that fit in on top of it and tried knocking it out with a hammer and it wouldn't budge.So I took a punch and knocked the center of the dust cover out and then went around the edges hitting it with the punch and hammer just like when you knock a bearing race in..Presto..I have never had one I couldn't get out this way..including one 60 that had been burned and sat in the rain for a year afterward...it wasn't easy,but, it came out the same way.But, i fyou think that race is hard to get out try seperating the lower knuckle plate from the knuckle for kicks....Good luck either way.:D

Lower knuckle plate came right off.

about an hour with a persuader and a punch did the trick. Thanks.

Now about putting the new race in... Just pull it into place with the lower plate bolts?

Originally posted by Mo
Lower knuckle plate came right off.

about an hour with a persuader and a punch did the trick. Thanks.

Now about putting the new race in... Just pull it into place with the lower plate bolts?

Well you got lucky on the plate as they are notoriously hard to seperate..AS for the race. Take a punch and hammer and knock up into the bottom of the knuckle like a reagular bearing race..Don't forget to put the dust cover in first and you might even put a little permatex between the dust cover and knuckle..Good Luck:D

Speaking of those lower knuckle plates, are they something that I can get at NAPA or somewhere. Mine would not come for anything, so I cut it off with the sawzall, then put it in the press and pressed the rest of it out. Now I need to get a new one, any opinions on this???

Originally posted by BlueJeep
Speaking of those lower knuckle plates, are they something that I can get at NAPA or somewhere. Mine would not come for anything, so I cut it off with the sawzall, then put it in the press and pressed the rest of it out. Now I need to get a new one, any opinions on this???


Cut the plates of with a sawzall???? :eek: I really hope that you are kidding..You don't have to even seperate the lower plate to get the bearing off or put a new one on if your crafty....I would suggest hitting the junkyards or contacting a gm dealer to see if they can still get them...their pricey little fellows...Good Luck:D

Nope, I'm not kidding. I couldn't figure out how to get the outer knuckle off the inner knuckle without doing that. After heating pounding, heating again, pounding more, I pretty much had the plate all F@#ked up. At that point in time I didn't realize that the upper cone thing unscrewed from the inner knuckle. I'm going to get a dana 70 for the 35 spline outers so I can use one from that axle, but I was just wondering. Thanks.

Originally posted by BlueJeep
Nope, I'm not kidding. I couldn't figure out how to get the outer knuckle off the inner knuckle without doing that. After heating pounding, heating again, pounding more, I pretty much had the plate all F@#ked up. At that point in time I didn't realize that the upper cone thing unscrewed from the inner knuckle. I'm going to get a dana 70 for the 35 spline outers so I can use one from that axle, but I was just wondering. Thanks.

Not to add to your frustration,but, unless that dana 70 front you are talking about getting is an open knuckle disc brake 70(they are extremly rare,more so than the closed knuckle 70, but they exist) then the plates probably won't be the same.I might be wrong..You aren't planning on buying a complete 70 front for just the stubs are you? Stubs new run anywhere from 60-80 dollars from several places...Then again it might be free which is always hard to turn down...Good lock.:D

Yes, it is an open-knuckle dana 70 and I'm buying it for the stubs, the knuckles, and the spindles...and now one of the kingpin things. It's also very reasonably priced :D :D so that makes it easy to tear it apart for parts for my 60. Then I'll have to find some GM hubs since I don't like the dodge-style that it has on it.

i would have assumed the open knuckle 70 would be new enough to share the same hubs as 60s?
is yours external or something?
basically want to know the difference between your dodge 70 hubs and chev 60 hubs

The dana 70 front I'm getting does have the same hubs...as a dodge 60 with the studs that hold the drive flanges for the 35-spline stubs. I have a ford HP 60 with the internal spline lockouts. I'm going to use the ford housing, the dana 70 knuckles, spindles, and stubs, and get Chevy hubs with the internal splines so that I can have lockouts. I ordinarily wouldn't care about the hubs, but I drive the Jeep a lot so I want to be able to unlock the frontend and I may turn them and re-drill them to 5 on 5.5.

Originally posted by BlueJeep
Yes, it is an open-knuckle dana 70 and I'm buying it for the stubs, the knuckles, and the spindles...and now one of the kingpin things. It's also very reasonably priced :D :D so that makes it easy to tear it apart for parts for my 60. Then I'll have to find some GM hubs since I don't like the dodge-style that it has on it.

Sounds good.:D I have never seen an open knuckle 70 with external style bearing hubs...But, it wouldn't suprise me though since there is only 33 versions (last time I checked ) of a 70 axle...good luck with your project..:D

you cant find external hubs for that ap?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mo
[B]Swamp? It's just wet from the liberal dousing of PB Blaster. You should see the crud that came off. Here in the Rust Belt, PB blaster is one of the more commonly used tools. :D

I'll second that, that shit is the shit, I go through a can a job!