I went to a material warehouse today in Burbank and got some thick aluminm diamond plate to make a rock slider. Then I figured aluminum is soft and might get gashed or hung up because of the diamond pattern. It was also gonna cost more than i thought to bend it into an angle. I'm gonna go back on monday and get some angle iron and return the piece I got. I need to hide the marks where I took off the stock YJ steps now that I have TJ flares. I'm also gonna get thin aluminum diamon plate to cover the outside of the angle iron I think. What kind of angle iron is good for the occasional rock but mostly to lift with the high lift jack?

6"

I had some thick angle iron at work but I didn't like how the inside radius was so big. I thought that wouldn't let the bottom of the tub sit right when put in place.

mine is about like that one in the picture but it goes all the way to the frame and then follows the contour of the frame...it was made custom...personally I would leave the alum out of the equation...like you said before it is soft and will gouge and get caught up more easily...just shoot it with a good paint and you will be fine:D

You can bye those fancy warn rocksliders for something like $250 ! :eek: :rolleyes: Or, you can go get two peicea of 4 in. by 1/4 in. angle iron and some bolts and do it urself...Mine costed all of $22.67 . Looks good and works good. I spent the other $225 on cany and beer !;) :p :D


:jeep: __(OIIIIIIO)__rOkOn:usa:

I think you're gonna get the same reply from everyone, mine are 4x4, 1/4", cost a little over $20. When you attach them use button head alloy bolts, hex heads will catch on stuff. I used 1/4" x 1" alloy allen heads. One other thing, when you go to mount them, double check on the inside of the tub so that you don't drill into a blind spot, there are a couple, and it looks really dumb.

I made mine out of 6x6x1/4" angle and tied them into the body mounts as well as bolting them to the tub,they're really strong and i then weilded 2x4 tubing thats got 3/16" walls to the angle to make a great step and as nerf bars that you can turn the jeep on and not bend them.
MULE

Like everyone says 1/4-4x4 is the way to go.

As far as button head bolts don't bother!! All it takes is one little bump, and the hex gets deformed and you'll never get them off without cutting. Use 1/2"X1" Grade 5 backed up by fender washers on the inside. This is what I have and have never gotten "hung up" on the heads.

One very important thing is to make sure all your boltholes are drilled so they come in ABOVE the level of the floor. If you have them below, the first good hit will fold the bottom edge of the body under.

I got lots of holes left over from taking off my YJ steps to put my TJ flares. THANKS GUYS! :D I'm gonna be getting the material on friday or sat.

Ya, I used a 6" diamond plate also. I also had 1x4 rect. tubing that I milled a slot down the entire top and then stuffed the diamond plate inside and then welded the how thing up. Ya, I was a bit bored that day.. Sits nice on the vehicle and slides nicely on the rocks. Turned out pretty beafy.
:rasta: Have fun :D

Originally posted by WILS29
Ya, I used a 6" diamond plate also. I also had 1x4 rect. tubing that I milled a slot down the entire top and then stuffed the diamond plate inside and then welded the how thing up. Ya, I was a bit bored that day.. Sits nice on the vehicle and slides nicely on the rocks. Turned out pretty beafy.
:rasta: Have fun :D
got pics?
I finshed my TJ flares today at work (except for wiring 1 of the lights). I was supposed to go get my angle iron and diamond plate but someone got a virus on the work computer and I had to fix it :(

YJ4life a material supply house in Burbank? Do you speak of Industrial Metal Supply? I cruise the rem pile regularly. They have got some great scraps for 15 cents a pound!!

Rems rule!!!

Don't bother with either the button heads or hex heads. I used 5/16 18 countersinks to mount my 6x6 3/16 angle iron. I also cut mine to fit the radius of the front wheel well and welded in another piece to the end so when you stuff a tire it won't grab your inner fender. It just rubs on the plate. ( I hope that makes sense):confused: All I know is it works GREAT.You can do the same for the rear but I don't rub the rear wells so I left it alone.

Originally posted by J-Bone
YJ4life a material supply house in Burbank? Do you speak of Industrial Metal Supply? I cruise the rem pile regularly. They have got some great scraps for 15 cents a pound!!

Rems rule!!!
That sounds about right. I gave my artist friend their card. I'm not gonna make the slider go to the wheel. Its gonna stop at the flare. There's a Doringer saw (http://www.doringer.com/) at work that I can get perfect angles on after I measure the angle of the flare. We make almost all the parts for that saw at the machine shop I work at.

Dude hook me up with a saw I'll hook you up some parts.:eek: :D That things killer.

I did mine with 5x5 angle iron that was 5/16 thick and I dropped the whole jeep on it from about three feet and it didnt even dent it. Use carrage bolts through the side so that nothing will catch on rocks.

Does anyone know of any online writeups on making the rock sliders?

Originally posted by IndianaBlake
Does anyone know of any online writeups on making the rock sliders?

That's a joke right?

Just put the angle iron up there and drill some holes...install some bolts and "Presto"..you've got rockers!:rolleyes:

Originally posted by rockcrawler304
Don't bother with either the button heads or hex heads. I used 5/16 18 countersinks to mount my 6x6 3/16 angle iron. I also cut mine to fit the radius of the front wheel well and welded in another piece to the end so when you stuff a tire it won't grab your inner fender. It just rubs on the plate. ( I hope that makes sense):confused: All I know is it works GREAT.You can do the same for the rear but I don't rub the rear wells so I left it alone. Huh, I didn't know you could get 6x6 3/16 angle. Out here or at least Modesto Steel the largest 3/16 stuff is 3x3 then you jump to 1/4 inch thick.

like these http://www.rockdawgs.com/forums/uploaded/orcusomega/DSCN1053.jpg
http://www.orcusomega.com/dan/small_steps2.jpg
http://www.orcusomega.com/dan/small_steps1.jpg

4x4x1/4" 55" long with a step. Still flat but solid as shit.

Tried and true.

Originally posted by 4BANGERYJ
Huh, I didn't know you could get 6x6 3/16 angle. Out here or at least Modesto Steel the largest 3/16 stuff is 3x3 then you jump to 1/4 inch thick.


I have a buddy that works for a steel fab place and has all the computer controlled plasma and laser cutters, breaking and rolling equipment you could imagine. He took a sheet of 3/16 and cut and bent it to what I needed and I just had to plasma cut the ends my self at home. ( Great to have connections:) :D ) I've also slammed mine pretty hard and only removed some paint. For the guy above...I'd still stick with the counter sink bolts. This leaves a completely flat surface. Just my opinion though and we all know that opinions are like a@%holes.....everybody has one.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by dozernad

4x4x1/4" 55" long with a step. Still flat but solid as shit.

Tried and true.

Did you have to cut any of the angle iron portion that goes under the tub? Also, what did you use on the inside of the tub to keep the bolts from pulling through?

Thanks.