220 plug on a lincoln 225 ac/dc

[jheady]

I need to hit the experts before I attempt it myself, just to make sure I have it covered.

I acquired a 225 ac/dc buzz box at an auction. The company that had the unit had it direct wired into their electric so I need to replace the plug on the end. I just plan on heading over to Lowes and getting a male plug to put on, but I wanted to make sure I have the wiring correct. Of the 3 wires I know they green is the ground, but how do I identify the other two for correct attachment?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Murph]

The other two are black and white, right? Attach them to different phase hot lines in the breaker box.


Andy

[aloharover]

Is there a data plate ont he thing that tells you how many amps it draws?

Do you already have a 220 socket in the garage?

Mine is a dryer socket

/ \
0

/ white
\ black
0 green
The / and \ each go to their own circuit breaker in the box. The 0 goes to the common (where the 110 white wires are) not the ground (110 bare copper)

Pete

[jheady]

If I remember correctly, since it is at home, the wires are both black and the ground (green) is stripped back more for how they had it wired. I planned on picking up the plug today after work and getting it fixed up tonight.

I don't have 220 in the present house garage, but in the process of building an external garage that will have it. I also have 2 - 20ft+ long 220v cables from one of our MDF upgrades that I am replacing plug ends in the case I need something at the house instead. With the extended cables I should be able to make it from either the stove (wife would love that) or dryer.

[steveh]

Most of the time in a home, a romex type product is used, and the 220V is as follows:
Black & Red are the hots
White is the Neutral
Green or bare copper is the ground.

But, I have seen other colors used for hots if the wire used is individul conductors in conduit.

I'm sure our resident electricians will chime in and provide the expert advise.

[PAToyota]

Neutral is only on four-wire devices such as an electric stove. Only reason for the neutral is for the 120V circuts -- clock, outlet, lights. A 220V welder has no need for the neutral. So you have the two hots and a ground. Connect the ground to the ground in the plug and the hots to the other two terminals. Doesn't matter which hot goes to which side.

[D60]

Connect the ground to the ground in the plug and the hots to the other two terminals. Doesn't matter which hot goes to which side.

Ditto! Hot is hot, don't matter.

Also if you're using steel conduit or have a steel building you can just run your ground to that instead of all the way back to the box. I'm also told your ground doesn't need to be as large as your supply wires. For instance, I ran #6 for my hots but only a #10 pigtail for my grounds. I was told this is allowed - haven't died yet - and it's sure easier than trying to pull three wires when you're already pulling two #6!

[maddog]

If this will help.For maximum safety, use a four-wire cord and do not bond the grounded
conductor ["neutral"] to the frame ground in the appliance.
But if you are using an existing three-wire circuit that you cannot
upgrade to the current standard, then verify that the frame ground (sometimes
a green screw or wire, or bare jumper) is bonded to the "neutral" (white wire,
silver screw) in the appliance. Test appliance and circuit to verify proper installation and effective grounding.
NEC 2002 Article 250.142(B) prohibits grounding via the grounded
conductor ["neutral"] of load-side equipment frames except as
permitted for existing installations only per Article 250.140
and only if that branch circuit originates from the service equipment.
A new installation must have an equipment grounding conductor in
addition to the grounded conductor, i.e., four wires.