I'm putting together an axle with the following components for a YJ:

- HP D44 housing (`78 Ford F250 cut down)

- Scout D44 shafting (maybe Waggie inners depending on the final width and spring pad placement)

- Chev flat top knuckles

- Scout spindles, and misc outwards (5 on 5.5" pattern, using 15x8 w/ ~4" BS wheels)

I'm trying to make up my mind about which steering box and arms to go with.

Should I go with the YJ/XJ style stuff or reconfigure the steering to use a Scout box and Scout length arms? I am aware of the differences for front pointing and rear pointing Pitman arms.

Thanks!

r@m

or another option if you want a forward facing pitman arm is an chevy astro box. It bolts in directly to where the stock yj box is. How far forward are you pushing you axle? The scout box mounts to the outside of the frame rail btw

If you are using Scout spindles and knuckles, you'll probably want the Scout pitman arm as well. Scout pitman is longer than usual I am told and the knuckles have a longer steering arm to match.

or another option if you want a forward facing pitman arm is an chevy astro box. It bolts in directly to where the stock yj box is. How far forward are you pushing you axle? The scout box mounts to the outside of the frame rail btw

Hmm, forgot about the Astro box.

I'm not certain where the front axle will end up yet. I was considering using waggie springs in the front - should give 3"-4" difference IIRC.

Are there any real technical differences and/or advantages between the Scout and Jeep boxes?

The Scout box has the longer Pitman but does that mean any leverage advantage if both ends match? The Scout box is physically larger (IIRC, don't ahve a Jeep box in front of me currently) so it should be stronger?

Does it matter?

T!

r@m

If you are using Scout spindles and knuckles, you'll probably want the Scout pitman arm as well. Scout pitman is longer than usual I am told and the knuckles have a longer steering arm to match.
Yes, the Scout arms are quite a bit longer.

I am using Chev knuckles so for arm length I have a blank peice of paper to start with for all intents and purposes.

r@m

why use the scout spindles and outers? Yes you will get 5.5x5 but you are stuck using expensive brake components and weaker external hubs. Use mid 70's chevy or jeep spindles/caliper mounts with f-150 hubs/rotors and you will have a stronger setup with cheaper/easier to find brake parts.

what steering box you use will depend on how creative you can get with the mounting, I'm not 100% sure but doesnt the scout box mount to the outside of the frame? I would imagine this would be a pain on a YJ expecially with a less then full width front axle.

Also are you SOA?

Do you want High steer? it sounds like you plan on making your own arms so I'm guessing you want high steer. I would try and move the stock steering box forward as far as possible and just go high steer and see if that can work.

Scout brake stuff isn't that expensive... I just looked up calipers on AZ's website for a 75 Scout and they have reman units for $13.99 plus $10 core. Brake pads, depending how cheap or not cheap you want to be, are $13.99 to $96.99. Just because Scouts haven't been in production for 25 years doesn't mean the parts cost an arm and a leg.

On a Scout 44 there are 8 bolts that hold the spindle to the knuckle.

why use the scout spindles and outers? Yes you will get 5.5x5 but you are stuck using expensive brake components and weaker external hubs. Use mid 70's chevy or jeep spindles/caliper mounts with f-150 hubs/rotors and you will have a stronger setup with cheaper/easier to find brake parts.

You know, I've seen it mentioned that Scout brake parts are expensive but that hasn't been my experience. When I purchased my current stuff (long time ago in a galaxy far away) it did not strike me as expensive. Maybe selective memory but I remember ~$25 for the calipers and $75 for the rotors - in Canadian metric dollars at that.

If I had my time over I'd go 8 lug Ford stuff, but I've got the parts including Warn Premiums now so I'll use that.

what steering box you use will depend on how creative you can get with the mounting, I'm not 100% sure but doesnt the scout box mount to the outside of the frame? I would imagine this would be a pain on a YJ expecially with a less then full width front axle.

Also are you SOA?

Do you want High steer? it sounds like you plan on making your own arms so I'm guessing you want high steer. I would try and move the stock steering box forward as far as possible and just go high steer and see if that can work.

Yes the steering box mounts outside on a Scout...good call on the clearance with a Jeepish width axle (I figure I'll be around 62" WMS2WMS), I hadn't thought about that.

SOA and high steer are what I plan on doing.

Thanks guys.

r@m

Scout brake stuff isn't that expensive... I just looked up calipers on AZ's website for a 75 Scout and they have reman units for $13.99 plus $10 core. Brake pads, depending how cheap or not cheap you want to be, are $13.99 to $96.99. Just because Scouts haven't been in production for 25 years doesn't mean the parts cost an arm and a leg.

On a Scout 44 there are 8 bolts that hold the spindle to the knuckle.
Yea but the hubs still suck major ass and the brake rotors are still 2.5x more expensive.

So how many six bolt spindles have you see sheared off????

I'm putting together an axle with the following components for a YJ:

- HP D44 housing (`78 Ford F250 cut down)

- Scout D44 shafting (maybe Waggie inners depending on the final width and spring pad placement)

- Chev flat top knuckles

- Scout spindles, and misc outwards (5 on 5.5" pattern, using 15x8 w/ ~4" BS wheels)

I'm trying to make up my mind about which steering box and arms to go with.

Should I go with the YJ/XJ style stuff or reconfigure the steering to use a Scout box and Scout length arms? I am aware of the differences for front pointing and rear pointing Pitman arms.

Thanks!

r@m

Sounds like you haven't researched this enough. Scout spindles won't bolt to chevy knuckles, and wagoneer and scout inner axleshafts are within .25". Spring pad placement is also the same on IH and Wagoneer

Sounds like you haven't researched this enough. Scout spindles won't bolt to chevy knuckles, and wagoneer and scout inner axleshafts are within .25". Spring pad placement is also the same on IH and Wagoneer
Yea they will. You just need to drill a few holes.

Knuckles are already drilled for Scout spindles.

r@m

Like this:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=183006&stc=1

Knuckles are already drilled for Scout spindles.

r@m


Did the same with my chev flat tops. If you are going to build an axle I why put the scout spindles/outers on with the weak hubs and weaker 27 spline outer shafts? This is what I have. I plan on upgrading later with Chev big bearing spindles and ford brakes, the Scout stuff works for now. :D

Tonka-Why did you opt to drill the spindles and not the knuckle? Not flaming, just wondering. I drilled the knuckle figuring there was more "meat" to work with. Any problems with breakage?

Old Scout-I've found new rotors for $30, pretty cheap if you ask me. And yes, the hubs still suck ass. Just did new pads, calipers, one new rotor and turned the other one for about $140. Not bad IMO.

Old Scout-I've found new rotors for $30, pretty cheap if you ask me.
What you found are not scout discs. They will work fine untill you run the pads down to the nubs and then brake caliper pistion cocks sideways in it's bore! :flipoff2:

What you found are not scout discs. They will work fine untill you run the pads down to the nubs and then brake caliper pistion cocks sideways in it's bore! :flipoff2:

:confused: I'm cheap but I don't run my pads down that thin... :D

Tonka-Why did you opt to drill the spindles and not the knuckle? Not flaming, just wondering. I drilled the knuckle figuring there was more "meat" to work with. Any problems with breakage?



Actually I didn't. I bought this axle built by a guy who really knows his shit. I THOUGHT it was all IH parts but when I went to put in my knew Parts Mike flat top knuckles I found that I had the chevy spindles. In the end my setup will be plenty strong enough for me and its really good quality stuff.

I THOUGHT it was all IH parts but when I went to put in my knew Parts Mike flat top knuckles I found that I had the chevy spindles. .

Whoops, I'm a dumbass. Just took a closer look at the picture.