Ok guys I have a ford d60 front for my yj. Unlike the stock setup I would like to run the ubolts upward.

The stock setup used the ubolts down and used a large CAST iron spacer which allows the ubolts to go around the large webbing on the cast part of the d60 housing. The ubolt then tigthen down against the cast spacer. Exucse my extremely large test ubolts. :flipoff2:

http://www.gotjeep.net/images/temp/front_axle/d60_spring_clamps.jpg

So I was thinking I could cut some relief channels in the stock brackets the run the flat parts of the ubolt under the cast spacer. Without enlarging the holes in the case spacer the flat tops of the ubolts don't even touch the spacer. Then I could just use some spring plate on top to tighten the ubolts down.

Any ides from people who have done this would be appreciated.

I dont have an answer for your question, but.....that looks sweet. What yr/model did you pull that out of?? How much mod to spring perches????

Good Luck!!

I made a 3/8" plate for the top of the spring pack (I'd do 1/2" if I had it to do over again). Then I used standard round end U-bolts over the axle tube on the outboard side and over the casting on the inboard side. I ground a relief in the lower web to fit the U-bolt into. The only negative to this is the relier in the lower web and the difference in size of the Ubolts inner and outer.

You'll need to drill the holes in the plate in the correct location for your application. I held the U-bolt in place and traced around it then drilled. The inner one I had to slot the holes just a little to get it in. I can take a pic and email it to you if you need it.

I can take a pic and email it to you if you need it.


That would be great. I am not sure exactly what to do here. :)

Matt, I'm picking up the HP60 front in 1 day. I was just going to use the stock cast piece as is. I know the nuts might hang down a tad, but they are right next to the housing, so you're not creating too much of a rock grabber.

I do like the idea about recessing the cast pice to run a square u-bolt upside down. I think that is your best bet. I know it might not make a huge difference to notch the webbing, but the guy at Differential Engineering told me not to, so I'm not.

I'll be test fitting the 14 bolt and 60 this weekend, I'll email you pics.

Kev,

I mounted the d60 up and put the knuckles and spindles back on. I am hoping to get a hold of 38.5 tire this week and fit her on. So you are going to get it tomorrow. Cool. I would like to see what pinion angle you think will work for a standard front drive shaft.

Anyway. Yeah.. I have to go and look for attachments for my die grinder so I can cut some reliefs into the cast webbing spacer tomorrow. This bitch is going to be WAY wide. I will post some of the pictures of my later with the end on.

What do you need to do to the d60 before you can mount her up?




Anybody with a ford d60 front running ubolts upward, please give your opions. :beer:

I'm picking it up today with everything I need except my detroit and R&P. Yep this stuff will be way wide. I pulled the 30 out last night and put it beside my 14 bolt, the damn 14 bolt is almost as wide as the 30 with 36's on it:eek: , I'm very happy:D .

I'll be able to bolt it up without steering in the next few days. Looking to have the 14 bolt in next week and then get the R&P and steering done.

I still have to figure out what to do for wheels. I'm torn between beadlocks and cheap old steelies. I just don't know if I can afford $600 for wheels.

Where are you getting your beadlocks from, you are getting MRT's right?

Originally posted by bigdude
I'm picking it up today with everything I need except my detroit and R&P. Yep this stuff will be way wide. I pulled the 30 out last night and put it beside my 14 bolt, the damn 14 bolt is almost as wide as the 30 with 36's on it:eek: , I'm very happy:D .

I'll be able to bolt it up without steering in the next few days. Looking to have the 14 bolt in next week and then get the R&P and steering done.

I still have to figure out what to do for wheels. I'm torn between beadlocks and cheap old steelies. I just don't know if I can afford $600 for wheels.

Where are you getting your beadlocks from, you are getting MRT's right?

there's a set of 16" beadlocks in the FS section right now... he accepted my offer of $650 plus shipping, but I had to bow out - no cash right now :( :( :(

Thanks for the info Mo but I've already got the tires and they are for 15" rims.

Kev
Check these out
Looks like these drifeshaft angles might be ok like this. Just scan through the pics and take a look. :)


http://alien.drumgod.com/predator/drivetrain/

http://alien.drumgod.com/predator/nv4500/

send me your email address and I will send you a Pic on what i did with mine.. I don't even use U bolts.. sabot21@yahoo.com

I dunno if this helps...but here is what I did on my D44.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid3/p6e85f9851bbbe78e8de3d1fa487d4a28/fde7083f.jpg

Keith
I have heard of people saying, a setup like what you have might be a bad idea and lead to cracks ???
:confused:

Thanks for the help, much appreciated. That does look like the easiest setup.

Matt

Originally posted by Matt K
Keith
I have heard of people saying, a setup like what you have might be a bad idea and lead to cracks ???
:confused:

Thanks for the help, much appreciated. That does look like the easiest setup.

Matt

Yeah, I know. People tell me that all the time, but I haven't had any problems so far. :shrug:

Keith,

My 60 setup looks just like yours. 4 years with 36's & 39's and no cracks. The likelyhood of cracking the casting is very low because the load flow through the housing is almost in shear at the spring. There is a very small component of bending but it is very low. Also these housings were designed for 8600#+ GVW's the little Jeeps are around 3000-4000#'s.

If someone else does this I recommend making only a very shallow notch (~1/2 the U bolt thickness) just to catch the U bolt from sliding, Then round both the inside and outside edges slightly with a file or grinder to remove the stress concetrator. If you don't grind the web all the way down to the "round" part you will need to fabricate little spacers otherwise the U bolt will deform at the web and try to conform to the housing.

Does anyone have any pics of a housing that's cracked due to the U bolt notch like this?

Originally posted by lt1yj
Keith,

My 60 setup looks just like yours. 4 years with 36's & 39's and no cracks. The likelyhood of cracking the casting is very low because the load flow through the housing is almost in shear at the spring. There is a very small component of bending but it is very low. Also these housings were designed for 8600#+ GVW's the little Jeeps are around 3000-4000#'s.

If someone else does this I recommend making only a very shallow notch (~1/2 the U bolt thickness) just to catch the U bolt from sliding, Then round both the inside and outside edges slightly with a file or grinder to remove the stress concetrator. If you don't grind the web all the way down to the "round" part you will need to fabricate little spacers otherwise the U bolt will deform at the web and try to conform to the housing.

Does anyone have any pics of a housing that's cracked due to the U bolt notch like this?

Thats kinda what I thought...glad to hear it wored well for you...thanks for the info. I would like to see some pics or real life stories of this being "weak" :rolleyes:

Originally posted by Keith Strong


Thats kinda what I thought...glad to hear it wored well for you...thanks for the info. I would like to see some pics or real life stories of this being "weak" :rolleyes:

Real life huh?! i PERSONALLY HAVE SEEN TWO (sorry capslock) 44's and a 60 housing break with setups just like the one pictured. All ford hp housings. Housing notched just like that for the ubolt. only difference is they were all passenger side drops, and may have been notched slightly deeper, but it's hard to tell from the pic. fyi:eek:

edit: they cracked from the bottom up and pulled the axle tube out when they broke. 1 was caught right when it was a small crack the other when there was a 1 inch gap and the last came all the way apart. on 1 we used a comealong from knuckle to knuckle with a 1 foot long 4x4 on end against the bottom of the diff with the cable over the end of it to form a triangle of sorts to pull it all back together then welded the piss out of it. It held together for another year until the axle was put to rest.

Ford hi pinions retubed for pass? Any chance the retubing contributed? Hmmmmm. I dunno, I am gonna run it, if it breaks I will go 60 :D

Originally posted by Keith Strong
Ford hi pinions retubed for pass? Any chance the retubing contributed? Hmmmmm. I dunno, I am gonna run it, if it breaks I will go 60 :D

Any chance the retubing contributed? I'd say not since you only shorten the long side (the side that broke) to make a passenger side hi pinion thus creating less stress?.

just don't play too rough and you'll be fine. these were on heavier rigs or on rigs that mosh a little.;)

insayn posted this in another thread and is yet another option, the best in my opinion

I see, you use those 2 red X's to mount the spings to the axles. Huhmm. I didn't think about that.

Matt I sent you some more Pic to your email Address..

Hope this helps..

Thanks I appreciate the help.

I got the pictures. They look great

Matt,

Considering the $$$ we are spending on these front ends I'm not going to even risk it. I like your idea about notching that case piece to run the U-Bolt upside down. I might try that. If not I'll leave it with the stock set-up for now. I know my Jeep is light but the mere thought of cracking a $3000+ axle makes me want to :barf:

Kev

Check these out.

http://alien.drumgod.com/predator/ubolt_d60_spacer/

You can see if relief cuts were made to the bottom of the cast piece then, the ubolts could be flipped and plated used a top the springs. :)

I see it bro. I picked up my 60 last night and examined those pieces. Plent of room to grind a small relief to keep the u-bolt from sliding.

By the way I rented a garage at my complex to finish all this in. I'm reassembling the Jeep tonight for the short move to it's new home. Too bad I have to move that 14 bolt also:eek:

Damn those are heavy.

Originally posted by Aggro


Any chance the retubing contributed? I'd say not since you only shorten the long side (the side that broke) to make a passenger side hi pinion thus creating less stress?.

Good point. But the side I am dealing with then becomes the long side if you make it pass drop. That would put way more leverage on the spot I cut. I think you are right, other than bein a throttle jockey, I am not gonna worry too much, and just keep my eye on it.