Cheap Doubler for a 727?

[ChiScouter]

I read the post about doublers below and have never read about anyone trying this out. What if you used Dodge truck parts to hook up a 203 low range box to your 727? I am making my own doubler to mate a 4L80E to a 203, and then a dodge 241. That has it's own can of worms, but consider this and tell me where I am going wrong here.

Get a dodge 203 , 727 tailshaft and adapter from the pick& pull $75

Get a jeep 300 or a Dodge 241, around $200 or 50 at the p&p

Make friends with a machinist, a homemade adapter from a 203 to a 300 or 241 is a rather simple piece, after looking closly at the 300 and 241 I saw many advantages to the 241 and used it. I'm guessing 200 to 500 for that.

Get a second shaft from a 203 at the pick & pull, put it in the bottom of your tool bag, forget it is there.

Send out the 2 shafts to Moser to get cut to size and resplined, $100 for both including shipping

Modify your crossemmber and get your driveshafts done, $100?

Other stuff,
get 203 shifters from a chevy and dodge and see which will be easier to modify to work on your rig. $20

Get chevy shifter from a 208 or 241 to shift your 241, its easier to work and mounts to the body as opposed with than the dodge shifter that mounts to the tcase adapter $10

Most 241's are 23 spline impute, but some are 29, on the diesels. Good luck finding one, but JB conversions will sell you a 29 spline imput for 90 dollars, it is huge,and bolts right up to the 241. I am told that the 29 spline is bigger than the Chevy 32 spline.

Send your resplined shafts to 300 below Cryogenic services for tempering, for me this was piece of mind as they can't be heat treated, they charge a buck a pound with a $49 dollar minimum. so send some more stuff to get up to 50. I sent that 29 spline impute coupler also

By going with a later transfer case, you get the round bolt pattern which is easy to clock, and the front of the Tcase is sealed so no seal is necessary to seperate the oil in the 203 from the 2nd case.

the shifter from a 300 would be much harder to make work right than the 241 setup

If you go with the 241 grab the front drive shaft with the case, it has a square front flange, and the dodge has a CV front shaft. The 241 also has more offset than a 20 or 300 for trans to driveshaft clearance.

My 203 and adapter to the 241 are just about 12 inches long.

I am guessing about $1200 worst case, for the whole deal, but prices and avalibility may vary. I scrounge a lot and have a large tool bag, so a lot of my little stuff was pro bono.

Just another possibility for a very strong and relativly cheap doubler.

My can of worms with my deal is I am using a 4L80E with the setup above, and the 4L is 11 inches longer than the 727, and I had to make a special adapter from the 4L to the 203 as the old style 400 to 203 adapter wouldn't work by itself. That added another 2 inches. I haven't droped in my setup yet, but I have just finished the 2nd to last major hurdle and hope to drop everything in when the weather moderates. My next hurdle is going to be to try to open up the fender supports and use a late model 41 inch x 21 wide Chevy truck radiator. That will be done at the same time as the rest work

[RustoleumWhite]

hmmmm a VERY intreging idea for the slush-box guys...


Well thought out too.


What are the specs on the 241? I'm not familular with it. And what "advantages" did you find it had....

[jdjanda]

I see you've put a lot of thought into this. Another thought, with the 203 adapted to the back of the 727 you could also run the ORD 203/205 doubler. Granted you would not have the low range options of the 300 but you'll have an off the shelf doubler.

Joe

[Mechanos]

Isn't the 241 a chain drive? I would personally rather have a gear driven case.

[ChiScouter]

Well my fondness for the 241, it is a replacment for the NP208. It has been used in Dodges and Chevys since 1988. It oils much better than the 208,and is easier to work on. It has a low range of 2.72 to 1, it uses a 6 pinion design as opposed to the 3 pinion on the 231. Its ofset is a couple of inches farther out than a 300 making more clearance for a CV front shaft. It is rated to handle 5500 lbs of input torque. It has a conventional rear U joint output. Its output shaft I believe is the same diameter as an Atlas. They are still being used behind the Cummins diesels in Dodges. Try that personally with your Dana 300 gear drive.
When using as a double Tcase the Dana 300s shifters are in the way of the adapter, this could be remedied by making a longer 203 to 300 adapter, but that would shorten your rear shaft. Because the 300s shifter is affixed to the case moving the handle to a semi stock forward position would be a Rube Goldberg engineering challange.
I looked into the ORD doubler, but you either have to go on a scavenger hunt as I did to find the right components or the cost from ORD goes sky high in a hurry. Finding 205's with conventional rear yokes, and 32 spline imputs is near impossible around my parts. They are also almost 3x the weight of a 241 and you have less gearing options. I also think that clocking options are limited unless you use the ultra rare very late 205s that had a round pattern. With my setup I will have a series of holes and be able to set the angle of the 241 exactly where I want it.

[Ben W]

What is the overall length of the NP241, from the front mounting face to the rear yoke?

Is the input spline on the 241 male or female?

[ChiScouter]

Now I am stumped, I can't get to my 241 right now, but if memory serves me well the 241 is 4 inches longer than a Jeep 300 and 2 inches longer than a Atlas. It uses a female spline imput. I will update the length of the 241 when I can get in the garage, big snowstorm today.

[Ben W]

Thanks, no hurry. :)

[Scoutaholic]

You could save a few inches by using Jeep 727 outputs rather than dodge stuff. This is what I did. You would have to clock the 203 to mate it up though.
Your right about the round pattern 205 being ultra rare. I got lucky and found mine on the shelf in a junck yard. They didn't even know they had it or what it was other than just another 205.:D
Your plan you describe sounds like it should work. Like to hear from someone who had done this.:)

[Brandonw]

Very interesting ideas. I just bought a J**p 300 to put behind my 727, I was thinking about going to a Klune V 4to1 since It would bolt up using the J**p tailshaft/adapter and Tcase. But the Klune is rather expensive. What needs to be done to adapt the 203 to the 300? Does just the shaft on the 203 have to be modified?

[Cliffy [JD]]

A newbie with a Clue. I'll skip the HAZING and just say Welcome:cool: Interesting Idea.

[ChiScouter]

I don't know about a clue, maybe delusional, but I seem to think like you Cliffhanger. On the front side of the 4L80E will be a 52,000 mile takeout 72 500 Eldo motor. Mild cam, rebuilt Qjet, pertronix, Eldelbrock intake. I bought Sanderson street rod headers, but am thinking about leaving them in the box and going with the stock manifolds to begin with and fabbing up BBC headers on flanges from MTS.
I would like to go to a HP 44 later and am concerned about interference from the center dump block hugger Sandersons. What are you planning on using for the exhaust?

[ChiScouter]

I just measured that Dodge 241, 16 inches from the front of the case mating surface to the back of the rear yoke.

[Cliffy [JD]]

Originally posted by ChiScouter
I don't know about a clue, maybe delusional, but I seem to think like you Cliffhanger. On the front side of the 4L80E will be a 52,000 mile takeout 72 500 Eldo motor. Mild cam, rebuilt Qjet, pertronix, Eldelbrock intake. I bought Sanderson street rod headers, but am thinking about leaving them in the box and going with the stock manifolds to begin with and fabbing up BBC headers on flanges from MTS.
I would like to go to a HP 44 later and am concerned about interference from the center dump block hugger Sandersons. What are you planning on using for the exhaust?

I'm going with the block huggers (I don't feel like reinventing the wheel) they are close and don't drop down past even the oil pan I belive. With a lift and a HPD44 you should be fine. You can see a good pic of some block hugger headers if you get the new JP mag, They put a '70 500 into a FLATTY (that's cool)

My caddy came with HEI and I'm keepin' it, I'm gonna put a "torquey" cam in it, Eldelbrock intake, and I'm going with my current QJ (I just rebuilt it, but probably will again whenthe time comes) There's a local machine shop that does some "secret shaving" to drop weight and add Torque. :confused: But I don't know if it'd be worth the money, or necessary with a caddy engine. Then I'm gonna grab a short-shaft & FIxed-yoke TH400 from some BOP style vehicle, and add a 3.8:1 atlas and call it good.

[RustoleumWhite]

Originally posted by Cliffhanger

Then I'm gonna grab a short-shaft & FIxed-yoke TH400 from some BOP style vehicle, and add a 3.8:1 atlas and call it good.

dig around in the bone yards for a 60's Jeep J-truck, with a Buick 350...

you will get a TH400 MATED to a D20 (with CV). The addapter can be hard to come by sometimes. I'll have to check when I get home... but I (think* its a jeep style (round) pattern, so an atless (or jeep D300) should bolt on...


Scoutillac has the TH400 and adapter that I used to have (long story on how I got it, basicly it came with my house :rolleyes: ), but I still got the t-case at my place.....

[Ben W]

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite



you will get a TH400 MATED to a D20 (with CV). The addapter can be hard to come by sometimes. I'll have to check when I get home... but I (think* its a jeep style (round) pattern, so an atless (or jeep D300) should bolt on...



1. All Jeep Dana 20's are the texas bolt patterns, not round.
2. It is not 23 spline so the Jeep D300 will not bolt on either.

[Brian E]

ChiScouter,
Another option for you since you too are a 241 fan. Find another 241, and a Grand Waggie 727. Swap the tailhousing to your IH 727 to get the round bolt pattern. Next make friends with a machinist like you mentioned, then take your extra 241 and build a planetary crawler, just like a Klune-V. They are really very simple. I built mine for under $200 total. I do have CNC equip. availible though. The ratio will be much lower with a 2.72 box, and a 2.72 t-case.
Just another suggestion.

[ChiScouter]

Brian where were you at when I was getting started in on this whole thing 2 years ago? It is too late for me to turn back now, but I am quite fascinated by your 241 based doubler. Do you have any pictures? Was that 200 just for materials? How much shop time was involved?

[Brian E]

Sorry I wasn't around for ya. Here is a good link that helped me. Mine ended up looking and working just like one of the early Klune-V's.

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/bryce/tcase/tcase.cfm

I built a new housing out of a 1" wall steel tube, witha front half and a rear half. The whole thing is 6 1/2" long, and will bolt to anything with the round 6 bolt pattern (D300, 231, 241, 208, ect..) I didn't to the welded shaft thing, I built my own and hardened it. The materials cost was $200, and It took me about 40 hours in the lab here at school. We are buliding a few more for our senior design project. The new ones are aluminum, and completly CNC. Thanks for the interest.
Brian

[ChiScouter]

Ahhhha Brian,
I spent a lot of time studing all those dual setups on B&C before I did mine. Very clever project. My cousin is the machinist, and I couldn't cut him enough firewood and buy him enough beer to do that much work for me.

[Brian E]

It took so long because it was the first one, and i was doing it step by step on a CNC lathe. I didn't write a program for it. We are writing a program now for the CNC mill. we should be able to do each part in about 10 minutes. The total box will take less than a day.

[RustoleumWhite]

Originally posted by Brian E
It took so long because it was the first one, and i was doing it step by step on a CNC lathe. I didn't write a program for it. We are writing a program now for the CNC mill. we should be able to do each part in about 10 minutes. The total box will take less than a day.

hmm.... you makeing these??


Howabout a new IH t-19-t-case addapter that converts it from the D20 "Texas" pattern, to the Jeep D300 "Round" pattern... build it into one of your planatary adapters then bolt on a Jeep D300....

If you could build such a beast, better yet under $500 (better than that under $300), you would sell a bunch.

You*could* just build the addapters and the cases and shafts, then the buyer would have to scround the internals...

[Brian E]

I have been thinking about it. Th eproblem with the adapters is that the length adds up in a big hurry. I made this one as short as possible. I have a jeep t-18 that I might try to build one for. Trust me I will let you know if I can come up with something that works. What is the IH tranny output like? Male/female, spline count, length?

[RustoleumWhite]

Thats why I sujested replaceing the stock adapter.... but I can see your not familular with the IH trannys...


Scout t-19's used a 3/4" thick spacer from the back of the tranny to the t-case... changeing bolt patterns at the same time. Replaceing this space could save that much more room.

The out put is a 6-spline male shaft. Not very long, the width of the bull gear.

It would be nice NOT to mess with the output shaft.... then the tranny could alwasy be changed back...


t-18's and t-19 are different... I think... have to look and check.


Anyone got a spare t-19 and/or a t-18 close to this guy so he could check them out??


-mark

[Brian E]

I see. There would have to be a spud shaft to convert to 21, 23, or 32 spline. This is where the extra length would come from. It would be way too much to have a new 6 spline input for the crawler made. I think my old roommate might still have a old IH tranny and T/C. I will have to hunt him down and find out. Are the Jeep and IH T/C patterns the same? You will have to forgive me, I am not too good with the IH stuff (I just know it is heavy and seems to rust really well). I would really like to build one to fit a Jeep Dana 20/18? I think the 203 box might be a little easier to keep short, but the ratio isn't as good as the 2.72. I am going to look into these a little more.

[TxScout]

Originally posted by Brian E
we should be able to do each part in about 10 minutes. The total box will take less than a day.

I would definatly be interested in buying one of these from you if do you have it all set up. I have a '79 with a 727 and a ?D20? I still haven't craweled under there to make sure, but I hear they didn't put D300's in until '80. Anyway, I'm interested, if you are serious, PM me about details. Thanks.

[Brian E]

The way it is set up now it only works with the 6 bolt round pattern. From what I understand you would have the Texas pattern. After I get these under control I will look into the Texas pattern for IH and Jeep. I think we have enough parts and material to build three more crawler boxes.

[TxScout]

I think all D20's are texas bolt pattern. The Scout D300 differed from the Jeep D300 because the Scout had the Texas pattern. Anyway, sounds really cool, if you build one for my 20, I will buy it. Thanks.

[Brian E]

I will work on it. It would be ideal if I could build a new output shaft for the t-18. This would be more work to install, and build, but it would keep the length real short. Does anyone have a pic of one before I tear into my tranny? I will check out AA to see how the adapt a t-18 to a D300.

[Ben W]

Novak's T18/T19 to Jeep Dana 300 kit comes with a new mainshaft for the tranny. It would be 23 spline.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_183.htm

[Scoutaholic]

Originally posted by Ben W
Novak's T18/T19 to Jeep Dana 300 kit comes with a new mainshaft for the tranny. It would be 23 spline.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_183.htm
I just read the writeup on the Novak page. I'm not sure I understand why they offer different kits for different engines.
Isn't this just a rear output kit?
What gives?:confused:

[Tony Sobrito]

anyone know what the difference is between jeep/dodge 23 spline and ih 727 23 spline?? or do i have the spline count wrong on the ih 727?

[Scoutaholic]

Originally posted by Tony Sobrito
anyone know what the difference is between jeep/dodge 23 spline and ih 727 23 spline?? or do i have the spline count wrong on the ih 727?
The splines on the shaft are the same. Other things are different like the adapter & bolt pattern, threads on the end of the shaft for bull gear or not, length the shaft sticks out the adapter.:)

[muskyman]

hey all wanna see helmers progress pics?


http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data/009/42/E6/7C/E3/5QdontKJDUfrIie8iOuTC6lXJUfKq+bm0180.jpg



http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data/005/7C/F0/75/98/wrQAeEgPOmEmQIKEnkivZI-uF6RpgO8q0180.jpg

http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data/004/29/83/BD/86/fgxTSg3+VBHc5AKVvJAZd2jA-9n6R-NG0180.jpg

and heres what it will look like once the clocking ring is cut

http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data/001/16/BE/B1/99/KVGlCfe1V9n02VQNfpp4iATm6yJ4BCwo0180.jpg

chiscouter(helmer) will have to answer all questions


and heres ones of helmers truck...farmland cow pusher inplace

http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data/00F/62/CB/CC/BB/MHHW9UTqv+8uOUWjt1kC0A3ZQD3ydmB30180.jpg

[Scoutaholic]

Nice job.:) I want to hear how well it works.

[ChiScouter]

Muskie thanks for posting the pics and for the :beer: Too bad the front "cow catcher" was a bit lost in the shadows, down on the south side we have another name for it, but Ill keep that one to myself. Next time your rig crosses the Cheesehead/FIB line give me a ring, I am anxious to check it out

[muskyman]

no propblem on the post

and theres always cold:beer: at my house ...all scout guys welcome

I cant wait to see it all bolted togather!

going wheeling saturday on the pipline...truck may come home after that

just so easy to leave it in wisconsin and drive the cushy rover up and back .

cant put it on a trailer that would be sacrilage

[The Fleckster]

Nice work there.Keep us posted.

Fleckster

[R290]

Anybody mate an NP241 to a NP205?

Trying to figure out some low gear options.

The NWF black box and the Kluine-V are a bit pricey. I know you can do a 203, but I would like the 2.72 better.

[guidolyons]

I don't see why you couldn't use a JB conversions SYE (or get the stock shaft cut down and resplined) and make the adapter a-la Mechanos (chuck of aluminum and a router).
At one point, D.D. Machine was thinking of working on an NP241-205 doubler but I don't think he ever did it.

Not sure if you have the WB to do it, but Tawl Boy ran a divorced NP 205 behind his in his big ass muddin' truck. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6673539&postcount=438

[binderbound]

Jeezes Craig! Going deep. For a second there I thought Chi had a head injury and was asking really newb questions again.:laughing:

[larboc@hotmail.com]

CUSTOM DOUBLERS ARN'T WORTH IT!

trust me, don't do it yourself. My 1356-205 setup was a ton of work. not worth it. wish I had just bought the 203/5 adapter.

[ChiScouter]

Jeezes Craig! Going deep. For a second there I thought Chi had a head injury and was asking really newb questions again.:laughing:

Most, but not all of my head injuries occured before I started this thread :D

That combo of mine just turned out to be too big and long to fit in my scout.:(

The custom adapter was no big deal to construct at all, I guess it all depends on what ones skills and vision are capable of. I would think that using the existing diy 231 or 241 doublers as a starting point and adding a round pattern 205 wouldn't be improbable. From what I remember when researching them the hot ticket was to use a 231 case because it is smaller, and stuffing 241 planataries in it.

[R290]

Most, but not all of my head injuries occurred before I started this thread :D

That combo of mine just turned out to be too big and long to fit in my scout.:(

The custom adapter was no big deal to construct at all, I guess it all depends on what ones skills and vision are capable of. I would think that using the existing diy 231 or 241 doublers as a starting point and adding a round pattern 205 wouldn't be improbable. From what I remember when researching them the hot ticket was to use a 231 case because it is smaller, and stuffing 241 planataries in it.

That's what I found out too, since Mad Roster and D.D. Machine only make 231 box4rocks. The 231 has 3 pinion planataries vs the 241 having 6, but swapable between the two.

The 203 would only get me 2 to 1, my dana 20 is 2 to 1 and to tall for most trails with 38" tires. 3 to 1 would be nice and then a doubler for the tougher stuff.

larboc, I know what you mean. I would need to pull a 241 and 231, then swap the planataries in the JY, and buy a round patten 205. The issue then is shifting the 205, you could use the normally longer 205 input with a spacer, or rear shift it with the shorter input. I need to add up all the different lengths as Scout is only so long.

I'm getting ahead of my self as I still need to pull the tranny and put the round tail shaft on there.


Edit... Looks like most people are putting a D300 behind these box4rock doublers. As the shifter is not in the way.

[DieselS10]

I built my own 241/241 doubler with a steel adapter plate instead of aluminum, since I'm not setup to weld aluminum I had a local shop weld the side that I made into the front case. It was all surprisingly easy to do and nets a fairly good crawl ratio. I can post some pics if anyone is interested.

[larboc@hotmail.com]

That's what I found out too, since Mad Roster and D.D. Machine only make 231 box4rocks. The 231 has 3 pinion planataries vs the 241 having 6, but swapable between the two.

The 203 would only get me 2 to 1, my dana 20 is 2 to 1 and to tall for most trails with 38" tires. 3 to 1 would be nice and then a doubler for the tougher stuff.

larboc, I know what you mean. I would need to pull a 241 and 231, then swap the planataries in the JY, and buy a round patten 205. The issue then is shifting the 205, you could use the normally longer 205 input with a spacer, or rear shift it with the shorter input. I need to add up all the different lengths as Scout is only so long.

I'm getting ahead of my self as I still need to pull the tranny and put the round tail shaft on there.


Edit... Looks like most people are putting a D300 behind these box4rock doublers. As the shifter is not in the way.

Rear shifting the np205 ain't too bad. I did it.

[R290]

I've seen the 241/241 doulbers, you have one on a Scout II, or full size pickup?

looking around found this, just need to keep my second job a bit longer.
it's the new mini 3 speed, same size as a D300

[DieselS10]

It's actually in my S10, but it is all fullsize drivetrain.

[larboc@hotmail.com]

$2500?
that's as much as 25 scouts!

[Mechanos]

$2500?
that's as much as 25 scouts!

Hell, you probably spent that much in welding rod plating the frame in your contraption. :flipoff2:

[Harvester of Sorrow]

I built my own 241/241 doubler with a steel adapter plate instead of aluminum, since I'm not setup to weld aluminum I had a local shop weld the side that I made into the front case. It was all surprisingly easy to do and nets a fairly good crawl ratio. I can post some pics if anyone is interested.

Please do post photos...I am going to be going the 241 route...just not sure what I want behind the 241. It will either be a 300 or another 241.

Please post your photos.

:)

[ChiScouter]

Please do post photos...I am going to be going the 241 route...just not sure what I want behind the 241. It will either be a 300 or another 241.

Please post your photos.

:)


That 241 is long and wide, you won't want it as your 2nd. BTDT i have a klune, a 205 and a couple of 300's laying around, and the more I think about it the better it seems to sell them all and go with a stack mini or an atlas 3 sp.

I still would like to see the pics of the forementioned 241/241

[uglyscout]

Hell, you probably spent that much in welding rod plating the frame in your contraption. :flipoff2:


HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa...


I'm still laughing at that one.... :D

Tech: This hobby costs money, if you aren't willing to spend it --be willing to do 10x the work to do it yourself.

[DieselS10]

Please do post photos...I am going to be going the 241 route...just not sure what I want behind the 241. It will either be a 300 or another 241.

Please post your photos.

:)


Here is the case with the side welded in.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02459.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02460.jpg

Here is the adapter that was originally mounted between the rear 241 I'm using and the 4L60e that it was mounted to. I parted off the the front part of it with the lathe and turned it down to a half inch thick.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02461.jpg

Here is the steel adapter I made to mount them together. It's 1/2" plate steel. If anyone is wondering why it has the additional 1/2" plate welded to it, it is because that made the new doubler the exact same length as the one I removed, so now the driveshafts will work perfectly as they are. The flat area at the bottom left of the second pic is where I will mount the mount that mounts to the crossmember.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02466.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02467.jpg

And finally, all of it bolted together.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02468.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02469.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02470.jpg

I didn't take any pics of the shaft, but all I did was part the original shaft off just past the planetary, then I got another shaft that was the correct spline count and parted it off 1" longer than what it needed to be then I turned that extra 1" area down until it would tightly fit into the hole in the original shaft. That centered it perfectly, then I chucked it up in the lathe holding it perfectly straight while I welded the two together. I can't say for sure that it will last, but I was willing to try it and so far so good.

[just4cuz]

So now your low/low is 2.62 plus 2.62 for a total low of 5.24?

[DieselS10]

So now your low/low is 2.62 plus 2.62 for a total low of 5.24?

It's 2.72 x 2.72 for a total of 7.39:1

[uglyscout]

I didn't take any pics of the shaft, but all I did was part the original shaft off just past the planetary, then I got another shaft that was the correct spline count and parted it off 1" longer than what it needed to be then I turned that extra 1" area down until it would tightly fit into the hole in the original shaft. That centered it perfectly, then I chucked it up in the lathe holding it perfectly straight while I welded the two together. I can't say for sure that it will last, but I was willing to try it and so far so good.


Yikes -- This is the only part of the build I don't like.... Some guys have great luck with welding stuff like this together -- some guys have no luck.

[Mechanos]

Yikes -- This is the only part of the build I don't like.... Some guys have great luck with welding stuff like this together -- some guys have no luck.

Depends on the welding process... I have high hopes for my inertia welded T19 shaft. Maybe I'll find out one of these days. :rolleyes:

[larboc@hotmail.com]

Depends on the welding process... I have high hopes for my inertia welded T19 shaft. Maybe I'll find out one of these days. :rolleyes:

wasn't that like, three years ago?

[MochaMike]

Please do post photos...I am going to be going the 241 route...just not sure what I want behind the 241. It will either be a 300 or another 241.

I'm leaning toward a 241/205 (ford) combo.
205=:nuke: proof.

Not as low, but more options: 2:1, 2.72:1 & 5.4:1.

Biggest issue is the 205 shift rail being really close to the bolt pattern.

[Mechanos]

wasn't that like, three years ago?

Actually, it was 666:evil: days ago. Still has broken yet. :laughing::laughing:

[RustoleumWhite]

Hey HOS, did you pick up your 241 case[s] yet? I still got this 241HD taking up room, I'd be VERY generous on the price (what I paid for it).


HD as a PTO gear in it as well, so its like 1/2-1" longer than a non HD 241.... from what I've been able to tell. Duffy should be able to make you a shaft.


Does he still have any of the 241 doublers left?

[Harvester of Sorrow]

Hey HOS, did you pick up your 241 case[s] yet? I still got this 241HD taking up room, I'd be VERY generous on the price (what I paid for it).


HD as a PTO gear in it as well, so its like 1/2-1" longer than a non HD 241.... from what I've been able to tell. Duffy should be able to make you a shaft.


Does he still have any of the 241 doublers left?


I will call you about this this weekend...:homer:

[RustoleumWhite]

I will call you about this this weekend...:homer:
Heard that before :flipoff2:

[Eagle-Mark]

Here is the case with the side welded in.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02459.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02460.jpg

Here is the adapter that was originally mounted between the rear 241 I'm using and the 4L60e that it was mounted to. I parted off the the front part of it with the lathe and turned it down to a half inch thick.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02461.jpg

Here is the steel adapter I made to mount them together. It's 1/2" plate steel. If anyone is wondering why it has the additional 1/2" plate welded to it, it is because that made the new doubler the exact same length as the one I removed, so now the driveshafts will work perfectly as they are. The flat area at the bottom left of the second pic is where I will mount the mount that mounts to the crossmember.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02466.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02467.jpg

And finally, all of it bolted together.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02468.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02469.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC02470.jpg

I didn't take any pics of the shaft, but all I did was part the original shaft off just past the planetary, then I got another shaft that was the correct spline count and parted it off 1" longer than what it needed to be then I turned that extra 1" area down until it would tightly fit into the hole in the original shaft. That centered it perfectly, then I chucked it up in the lathe holding it perfectly straight while I welded the two together. I can't say for sure that it will last, but I was willing to try it and so far so good.Weak spot on the 241 is the tailshaft, you'll need a SYE that JB conversions makes.