Need axel info, this may even be tech.

[NVScouter]

OK I was thinking today. If a front D60 is $1K+ most of the time and a rear D60 $2-300 why not use a D60 on the front. Now I know this would only work if you are doing "the works" on an axel.

Alot of Scout people turn the knuckels. They simply grind out the knuckel from the axel tube. So since those are seperated why not switch them end to end. At home with an angle grinder wont produce the cut a machine shop could so even that small fee to save $.

On top of that if you are going to re-do steering with hi-steer and knuckels/gears/carriers. If you also narrow the tube and axels then what all is left that you use?

So why not buy a less expensive D60 cut the tubes to length and add new knuckels for a front?

Some casting differences or anything?


I was mainly thinking about this because I want to upgrade my Travelall's rear D60 to a 14bolt in the future and that would leave a spare D60 for me to play with on my next Scout.

[Hammerlock]

No child left behind? :laughing:

[Diesel Smoke]

OK I was thinking today. If a front D60 is $1K+ most of the time and a rear D60 $2-300 why not use a D60 on the front. Now I know this would only work if you are doing "the works" on an axel.

Alot of Scout people turn the knuckels. They simply grind out the knuckel from the axel tube. So since those are seperated why not switch them end to end. At home with an angle grinder wont produce the cut a machine shop could so even that small fee to save $.

On top of that if you are going to re-do steering with hi-steer and knuckels/gears/carriers. If you also narrow the tube and axels then what all is left that you use?

So why not buy a less expensive D60 cut the tubes to length and add new knuckels for a front?

Some casting differences or anything?

My first thought is you would be turning the gears the wrong direction. Also, have you priced Dana 60 knuckles and inner C's? Custom length shafts, plus all the time to cut, and weld on the new stuff. Personally I would rather spend the money on a Stock 60 and upgrade as I break it, that way I could wheel while I work.

[Ben W]

Don't forget that the rear 60 has no inner axle seals and no spring perch cast into the diff.

Its doable, but you proabably aren't going to save any money.

[Ben W]

My first thought is you would be turning the gears the wrong direction.

Carl... :shaking:

[NVScouter]

My first thought is you would be turning the gears the wrong direction.

So use reverse gear sets. If your going to go to big tires you'd need to re-gear anyways.




Personally I would rather spend the money on a Stock 60 and upgrade as I break it, that way I could wheel while I work.


I uderstand that. But if you went to somebody like Parts Mike the outer kit is like $600. Then you have all new stuff and set up for hi-steer.

This would be especialy true if you didnt want to be full width and were going to narrow it anyways.

So its possible if your going to re-do it all the way but if you want to wheel now just buy a set up front. Cool I was just thinking about it.

[Ben W]

So use reverse gear sets. If your going to go to big tires you'd need to re-gear anyways.


Now its really getting deep.

[NVScouter]

Now its really getting deep

So am I missing the point of reverse gear sets and should I just STFU and research them?

I've never rebuilt my own axels I've had them done. This would be my first. If I even do it.

[Diesel Smoke]

Carl... :shaking:

Sorry it's been a long day following and even longer weekend, and not the good kind. :rolleyes: :(

[NVScouter]

Carl...


NM I get it now.

[Ben W]

So am I missing the point of reverse gear sets and should I just STFU and research them?


Yes.

[NVScouter]

Yup I typed first and thought later. I wholey take back the reverse set shit I spewed. 2 seconds of how a gear works and I pulled my head outa my ass.

[JoshC]

This thread is awsome! :p

I ran a stock neck down 60 and broke an inner (a roughly 15 year old inner) my first time out.

I have a chevy 60 built with a detroit new 4:56 R&P and install kit, Yukon inners and Yukon 35 sp outers. 60 Highsteer arms. Stock spicer u-joints. Warn slugs. New loaded brake calipers. Kingpin rebuild kit. I made a diff protector and bent new brakelines too.

I think that's everything I have into it. It's a lot of money for me. If I had more, I'd have put dedenbear knuckles on it as well as some real u-joints.

I don't know what I'm trying to tell you anymore. I'm dizzy realizing all the money I spent.

Your plan will work and save you the cost of a stock front 60 IF you plan to get all that stuff plus the Dedenbear "C"s... And you have to be able to do most of it yourself to make any sense.

I got everything I needed above from Mike and Rich @ www.partsmikeparts.com and Sean @ www.anythingscout.com

Good luck.

[Urban Wheeler]

Isn't there a difference in axle tube thickness between front and rear?

[orangeamcs]

Isnt thetre a difference in how the gears are lubricated in the front vs rear dana 60. They just did a whole article in JP magazine on making a rear 60 into a front. All said and doen it didnt seem to be any cheaper or easier.

[CSmith]

Is this what you are thinking of? Here is a Blazer with a 14 bolt in the front. The biggest drawbacks I see would be the lack of axle shafts and hanging up on rocks. :flipoff2: I don't know what he's planning on doing for a driveshaft. :rolleyes:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/K5MONSTERCHEV/14b.jpg

[CSmith]

Here are some more pics. Linky (http://community.webshots.com/album/124988550UOsOXn) All of them have clear driveshafts and axle shafts.

[ih4ever]

dana 60 is centered on the rear right? so you wont have a chevy side drop for the diff...??? right, i would even cut the rear... let the rear axles be in the rear

[JoshC]

dana 60 is centered on the rear right? so you wont have a chevy side drop for the diff...??? right, i would even cut the rear... let the rear axles be in the rear

You'd re-tube it to whatever offset and length you wanted.

[Davethorik]

Maybe I missed it already in this post, but 99.9% of Dana 60 rearends have 1.31" 30 spline axleshafts. D60 fronts have 1.5" 35 spline axleshafts (inners, at least). so that means you'd also have to change the side gears or detroit or whatever.

as for the 14 bolt front...if you read that guys posts on CK5, he uses tire shine on his Swampers. I don't think he cares if it has a d-shaft or axleshafts. :rolleyes:

[MochaMike]

HD D60 Rears have 35 spline shafts.

& some of the J series Jeep trucks have offset (Passenger in the rear) D60 pumpkins.

[JoshC]

Did I mention this thread is awsome!

[MochaMike]

Did I mention this thread is awsome!

Did I mention your Sexy.

[MochaMike]

Did I mention your Sexy.

I meant your Rig & Barage.

[Davethorik]

HD D60 Rears have 35 spline shafts.

I guess I should have clarified, since you can't read :flipoff2:

There are 16, 30, and 35 spline D60 rears. I have only ever seen one D60HD rear on the "intarnet" and one in person...compared to hundreds of 16 & 30 spliners.

The 35 spline D60HD I saw was underneath an early 90's GM van cutaway chassis with a small school bus body. All of the D60's under the rear of 3/4 and 1 ton pickups (GM, Dodge, IH, Ford, Jeep, Studebaker) are 16 and 30 spline, and that depends on year.

So basically, good luck finding a 60HD.

[Hammerlock]

So what's your point? Doesn't really matter what the spline count is cuz most people are going to install a locker anyway. If they want to lincoln lock it all they have to do is replace the side gears.

Oh yeah, this thread is awesome. :rolleyes: :flipoff2: