Looked on woodys site and also searched, Didn't really find what I wanted so here goes.....

Got the chevy 400 small block installed and mounted up ready to run, problem is I need to do something with the cooling stage for the engine...

What is the radiator of choice for the v8 conversions?

I have seen the Griffen 27.5" x19" used.

Which one are is being used from summit?

They have 2 griffen, GRI-25242-x and a GRI-155242-x* (*denotes two rows of 1 1/4" dia tubing) Quite a price diff also, 181.95 vs 285.95

Could the Stock Radiator be taken to a shop and be recored? Does it pay to try and do anything with the stock one or should one just go to an after market?

From what I hear the 400 is a PITA to keep cool, I would rather have it done right the first time. :beer:

i'd try to find a radiator from whatever car/truck you got your 400 from...that way you know that radiator was supposed to keep that engine somewhat cool,,,cant have engines overheating from the factory can you?...if that dont fit, i'd find the biggest radiator w/ the most rows you can find at the junkyard and either put it in or get it recored to make sure its in good conditoin..i know i'll be swapping to a very large and/or very efficient radiator as soon as i get money and it heats up more..

When I worked at a 4x4 shop in CO. we almost always used Griffen rads on V8 conversions in cruisers,jeeps,broncos they are fair priced and they always worked for us. Most of these rigs we used electric fans as well.

Thanks for the replies.

Is anyone actually using either of these from summit?

They have 2 griffen, GRI-25242-x and a GRI-155242-x* (*denotes two rows of 1 1/4" dia tubing) Quite a price diff also, 181.95 vs 285.95

The stock rad that was on the 400 looks the same as any other 70-80's pickups, but Stock GM is way too long to fit into my cruiser

I was planning on running the stock fan and then possibly a elec in front if need be.

I am taking my stock 2f rad down to the radiator shop to have them look at mine and tell me my options on using the stock one. The guy builds radiators for race cars, so I guess I will find out if it will work. Didn't one of the pics of Jimmys rig have the stock rad in front of a 350?

I run the stock tanks and mounting on my radiator but had it recored to a 5 core. No complaints. Had custom tabs installed on the front as well for a pusher fan connection. (DO NOT run those plastic sawz thru the core!) The 16" Summit pusher combined with my 7-blade flex fan works fine....if I added a shroud, I'd probably never get over 180! (Barely does now, with the electric on...)

TONS of other things will effect your cooling as well.....headers, exhaust, firewall clearance, etc....

TT the local-yocal radiator shop....

Basically he told me to stay away from the Griffen because he claims that they are glued together at the factory instead of being welded. Any truth to this???

He showed me his alum rad he can order and get to me for 195.00, which did look impressive, but I am not sold on it yet. He said on the alum rad you can run a higher pressure cap, which lowers boilover/temp.

He basically said, not to run without a shroud either.

Any ideas or comments. Thanks

Originally posted by weigellj
TT the local-yocal radiator shop....

Basically he told me to stay away from the Griffen because he claims that they are glued together at the factory instead of being welded. Any truth to this???

He showed me his alum rad he can order and get to me for 195.00, which did look impressive, but I am not sold on it yet. He said on the alum rad you can run a higher pressure cap, which lowers boilover/temp.

He basically said, not to run without a shroud either.

Any ideas or comments. Thanks

Glued? I dont think so
:rolleyes: these are good radiators that never came back after we installed them at the shop! In fact on one bronco we had to switch port sides after a motor swap and had a rad shop weld on it. I think this would have messed up the "glue" but it did not. I think he is just trying to sell you one of his and for 195$ thats a pretty good deal.

Yeah its true, the griffin has glued tanks (epoxy actually) the problem is that the epoxy is not as strong as a welded radiator & not as effiecent. also griffin does not use the best, most efficeint cores avavilble. Howe radiators are much better & cost about $189. they are solid tig welded & reall efficient (they use the same core as Ford.. viseen or something like that). they only have a 2 row 1" core though. the radiator the guy is showing you is probably a howe. a 19X26 howe should cool your 400 pretty well.

The rad he showed me was for a mopar, 28x19".... It definatly did look impressive. Not 100% sure on the maker of the rad, I don't think it was howe.

This rad was all alum and didn't look like the lowest bidder made it. I see the 27x19" used, but i am not sure if it is going to fit ( I have the scout steering box and already had to do a little modifying to get the stock mount/rad back in). I will have to go and remeauser tonite and see what he can come up with.

I am going back tomorrow and I will see what he can come up with. I left him the 2f rad and the orginal mount. He seemed pretty confident, that even though it was the dreaded 400, one of his rad's could cool it. :) :)

Weigellj....I've been using a Summit radiator on my 383 Chevy with a blower for a couple years and it works great......it's a 4 row crossflow for Chevy's...p/n SUM-380325, the price just went up to $169.95, still, not a bad price for a crossflow, I added a 360 deg shroud and a flex fan off a Olds or Cad, a 7 blade and no fan clutch..............Frank

I read something a while back about someone having trouble with their alum. radiator not cooling enough. The radiator was huge and overkill but they were still running high temps. The guy ended up putting in a restrictor, GM makes it, in the hose going to the thermostat from the radiator. The water was not staying in the radiator long enough to cool it so the restrictor slowed down the movement a fixed the problem. I will try to find the article if anyone is interested. Matt

Be sure to run a shroud with a good fan.
I have a TBI 350 with the stock cruiser radiator (4 core), I run a custom shroud and the stock (tbi 350) clutch fan, no problems
even @ 115* @ 65mph. NO electric fan either!
My buddy has a 383 TBI with a similar setup, no problems.

What degree turdmostat is recommended when running with the stock cruiser rad?

Generally, how much did/does recoring stock to 5 core cost?

With the scout pwr steer, it looks like my max dimensions are going to be 19" high and 24" wide.

TT the Rad man again.

He is going to check out my old rad and have me try it the stock rad. I told him about the 383 and the 350 running with the stock and he figures to try it and see what happens, he also recommended a oil cooler, which I was planning on installing, which he figures will lower the temps as well.

With his books, he can get either a 25 3/4 wide or 21 3/4 wide rad alum rad to fit in the factory bracket, or he can recore mine or build me a new one from scratch. I am doubtfull with the scout steering box that anything wider than a 24" will not fit.

Basically a good guy to deal with, he figures if the stock one doesn't cut it, then worry about spending the cash to replace/recore the old one.

They make a "high density" core that I have also seen used with the stock tanks. I dont remember what the cost was, but it isn't
cheap, probably close to an alum rad?

My buddy with the 383, and my 350 have 195* stats.

The stock rad should be fine, got a buddy used the stock cruiser 4 core in front of a 455 olds, stock fan- 195 t-stat, no shroud, no problems

Cool, Thanks for the repies. I will try the stock one and see what happens and keep ya posted.

I run a 400 in mine with a stock 4core no problems with heat. I would do this over aluminum because of cost and ease of repair if you actually wheel this thing :beer: