dana 60 axle help??

[drewxj90]

I have a 96 dodge 2500 12V 5 speed that i use 99% for dd or towing and almost no offroad. I just wore out my second set of spicer joints in the front axle??? and would like to upgrade. This axle has a disconnect that halfway works and I want to install new model shafts to eliminate the disco. If this is possible, what and how is the proper way to do this. I dont really need strength as much as dependabilty.
Any info would be helpful
Thanks
drew

[T R A V I S]

You might wanna look into a 4x4posilock system, its a much more reliable way to activate the CAD on our trucks.

[Foolish]

I have a 96 dodge 2500 12V 5 speed that i use 99% for dd or towing and almost no offroad. I just wore out my second set of spicer joints in the front axle??? and would like to upgrade. This axle has a disconnect that halfway works and I want to install new model shafts to eliminate the disco. If this is possible, what and how is the proper way to do this. I dont really need strength as much as dependabilty.
Any info would be helpful
Thanks
drew
if you don't mind your driveshaft spinning full time go right ahead and install a once peice axleshaft on the passenger side. You will need to come up with a new axel seal for the p-side then.

[drewxj90]

Thanks for your help. What year model did the front axles start coming with out the central disconnect? (99) And does anyone no where to find these parts from a good junkyard or a supplier that deals with dodge?
Thanks
drew

[v10sport]

Mid 02 is when Dodge got rid of the cad.

[cheaprides]

i second that, posi lock would be the clean and cheap way to do it. and you also get 4low with it too.

as for foolish, you forgot that the cad doesnt have locking hubs just a direct drive. so not only would the drive shaft spin, you would have full time 4x4. reading his original question the whole problem is in the ujoints and there excessive wear. so full time is just going to make that problem much worse.

go with the posi-lock for a few hundred bucks you will be much happier in the end.

[HaWiiLuVeR]

i second that, posi lock would be the clean and cheap way to do it. and you also get 4low with it too.

as for foolish, you forgot that the cad doesnt have locking hubs just a direct drive. so not only would the drive shaft spin, you would have full time 4x4. reading his original question the whole problem is in the ujoints and there excessive wear. so full time is just going to make that problem much worse.

go with the posi-lock for a few hundred bucks you will be much happier in the end.

go read his question one more time. hes talking about the ujoints on the axle shafts. posi lok isnt gonna do crap for those. you would need locking hubs on the ends. do some homework before you start calling people out.

[cheaprides]

yeah i admit that was dumb on my part. (as it wouldnt be on anyone elses)

would ctms last longer?

how are they wearing? if you grease them and dont run in 4x4 all the time i dont see why it would do this.

and to foolish you never said anything about locking hubs so that would mean your spinning your ujoints (the ones that blow out on this guy) and the diff so really wouldn’t that be tones of unnecessary movement? and wouldn’t that lead to an early failure of the ujoint?

im sure you meant put locking hubs on later but you dint say it so it dint count

oh no you said the driveshaft would allways be spinning my bad you dint mean to also put locking hubs on so now i dont look like the only dumbass that messed up.

[HaWiiLuVeR]

you dint say it so it dint count.
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

what are you like 12?

[nudelles]

if he did the posilock it would make his front drive shaft spin because both spider gears are spinning, this wouldnt solve his problem with u joints, nor would it help with gas milage.

[drewxj90]

Thanks for everyones advice. I do realize the locking hubs would be the way to go but it is a little expensive for this truck? I think I am going to get new shafts from a new model truck and just let them spin. The front will spin and reduce gas mileage and wear the joints but I would ratrher keep replacing joints then spend 3 grand on locking hubs. Dynatrac is the only place I have checked for this setup. Anyone know where might be cheaper.
Drew

[Davethorik]

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

what are you like 12?

Yes.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=354177

[cheaprides]

your a dork your getting so upset about this its a joke

you hang out in the general chitchat section on here you are just another useless name on the internet to me

so say whatever keep going thats fantastic

do you even wheel, call me a noob thats great i am. im 17 sorry im not 45 and dont have 30 years of wheeling to brag about.

[Foolish]

Thanks for everyones advice. I do realize the locking hubs would be the way to go but it is a little expensive for this truck? I think I am going to get new shafts from a new model truck and just let them spin. The front will spin and reduce gas mileage and wear the joints but I would ratrher keep replacing joints then spend 3 grand on locking hubs. Dynatrac is the only place I have checked for this setup. Anyone know where might be cheaper.
Drew
Getting everything from the outer knuckles -> out from a 92-96 f350 Dana 60 axle and swapping them on your dodge (the bj's are the same #'s)

[CH46E]

I know you can get a 89 Ford Dana 60 with locking hubs but you would need to weld new brakets on the axle housing. It would be a lot cheaper than Dynatrac manual locking hub kits. Just an idea!

[Foolish]

I know you can get a 89 Ford Dana 60 with locking hubs but you would need to weld new brakets on the axle housing. It would be a lot cheaper than Dynatrac manual locking hub kits. Just an idea!
$2k is not cheap.

[Tommy_M]

Getting everything from the outer knuckles -> out from a 92-96 f350 Dana 60 axle and swapping them on your dodge (the bj's are the same #'s)


Is this true? This is the first I have heard of this? Has anbody done it? I have a D60 out of a 94 that has a CAD. I bought the posilok but want to convert it manual hubs, and the Dynatrac kit is to much cash????

[Foolish]

Is this true? This is the first I have heard of this? Has anbody done it? I have a D60 out of a 94 that has a CAD. I bought the posilok but want to convert it manual hubs, and the Dynatrac kit is to much cash????
Dynatrac wants around $2300 for their kit... you decide what is too much

The balljoints on the two axles are the same part #'s, I have heard of others doing it. When talking to "right gear axle" (who used to make a comparable kit to the Dynatrac for $500 less) they said its very similar to a ford axle, in fact they use ford parts to make their kit.

[Tommy_M]

Hmm... I may just have to try this, and take some pics. In my eyes $2300 bucks is steep, and that is just for the basic conversion.

Tommy

[steved]

if he did the posilock it would make his front drive shaft spin because both spider gears are spinning, this wouldnt solve his problem with u joints, nor would it help with gas milage.

Actually, everything spins in the front end and the driveshaft anyway from parasitic drag.

I do not think CTMs would be beneficial as they are really designed for overall strength, not longevity. I don't understand either how it is he is eating up axle joints...I had 200k on my original set in my 99, my dad has 202k on his in his 99 2500 CTD. Almost sounds like the CAD might not be disengaging so the joints are under "more" load than if the CA is disengaged??? :confused: Are you running 4wd on a lot of hard ground?? Makes no sense to me.

There was a guy over at PS.com that did the ford knuckle on dodge axle conversion...look him up, I believe he gos by ALAXCS or something like that.

steved

[drewxj90]

Thanks for all the help. I ordered yukon stock shafts to replace the old ones. Once I took some emasurements I found out that evidently the ears on the axle were spread apart and causing the joints to wear out much faster. Randys ring and pinion said that this was actually not that uncommon??