Bosch VE fueling pin removal

[HandBuilt]

This should be the same as a VW or 300TDI so I figured I would ask here.

I am trying to remove the fueling pin, attached to the diapragm in the boost pressure compensator section of the pump. I am having trouble removing it. The interweb tech says pull up carefully on the diaphragm and it should come out. I have been pulling carefully and it's not coming. It slides but it just will not come out.

I removed the starwheel and had a look, can't see. I don't want to pull too hard.

Has anyone done this? Pendy? I want to have a look at the eccentric so I can get a reference, my engine has been tampered with and I want to know where the low side of the cam is so I can gradually turn up the fuel.

[dieselcruiserhead]

On mine it gets stuck if it is turned up too much so I have to "turn it down" (aka turn the whole diaphram counter clockwise until the tick mark faces the valve covers at 12 oclock) until the pin comes out... Coincidentally this is asbout where the "1/2 fully fueled" setting is. Good luck with it!

[HandBuilt]

On mine it gets stuck if it is turned up too much so I have to "turn it down" (aka turn the whole diaphram counter clockwise until the tick mark faces the valve covers at 12 oclock) until the pin comes out... Coincidentally this is asbout where the "1/2 fully fueled" setting is. Good luck with it!

Thanks Andre, I'll try it tonight.

[Bush65]

The parallel body of the pin is continued below the eccentric cone section to guide/support the pin. This makes a lip that catches on another pin unless you rotate the eccentric to the minimum fuel position.

[HandBuilt]

The parallel body of the pin is continued below the eccentric cone section to guide/support the pin. This makes a lip that catches on another pin unless you rotate the eccentric to the minimum fuel position.

Thanks guys, I got it out. It has been set at the minimum fueling position since new.

I can't wait to fire it up with the changes I have made...

[pendy]

Do not forget to double check injection timing before getting to carried away. Bombing over poor timing gives lackluster results.

JP

[HandBuilt]

Do not forget to double check injection timing before getting to carried away. Bombing over poor timing gives lackluster results.

JP


Unfortunately this is where I have a serious problem.

The timing pin used to block the engine at TDC has been destroyed by the PO. Not quite sure how. The handle end is broken off. I am not sure if the cam gear is toast due to is being engaged upon startup, or if the damage is due to some other cause. I am betting on some other type of damage, due to the fact that the handle end is gone. Flush with timing pin holder body.

I therefore have no reference for TDC. I had to remove the pump to change the pushrod cover gasket (which blew on my maiden voyage) and managed to get it all back in without affecting timing much, by marking the pump in relation to the timing casing. The gears were reinstalled in the proper manner.

A common bombing trick on the early 6BTs is to advance the timing quite a bit, increases cyl pressure, power, decreases fuel consumption. I have read some recommendations about advancing the timing as far as the pump can be cranked. That sounds scary to me.

I cranked the pump forward few degrees (maybe amounting to 1/16th of movement at either three studs securing the pump to the engine) and have not tried it yet. I do not have the dial indicator tool for setting the pump either.

I am thinking of trying to remove the remnants of the timing pin and order the pin. If the cam gear is not destroyed I should still have a reference and I will have a professional set the timing on it later. However for now I am keeping my fingers crossed that it is good enough. It was running well before, except for a lumpy idle.

[Dougal]

Unfortunately this is where I have a serious problem.

The timing pin used to block the engine at TDC has been destroyed by the PO. Not quite sure how. The handle end is broken off. I am not sure if the cam gear is toast due to is being engaged upon startup, or if the damage is due to some other cause. I am betting on some other type of damage, due to the fact that the handle end is gone. Flush with timing pin holder body.

I therefore have no reference for TDC. I had to remove the pump to change the pushrod cover gasket (which blew on my maiden voyage) and managed to get it all back in without affecting timing much, by marking the pump in relation to the timing casing. The gears were reinstalled in the proper manner.

A common bombing trick on the early 6BTs is to advance the timing quite a bit, increases cyl pressure, power, decreases fuel consumption. I have read some recommendations about advancing the timing as far as the pump can be cranked. That sounds scary to me.

I cranked the pump forward few degrees (maybe amounting to 1/16th of movement at either three studs securing the pump to the engine) and have not tried it yet. I do not have the dial indicator tool for setting the pump either.

I am thinking of trying to remove the remnants of the timing pin and order the pin. If the cam gear is not destroyed I should still have a reference and I will have a professional set the timing on it later. However for now I am keeping my fingers crossed that it is good enough. It was running well before, except for a lumpy idle.


What are the symptoms of too much advance in a diesel? I know that too far retarded makes it hard to start and generally sluggish.
Should you run more advance with more boost? Given the denser air would slow the combustion process a little.

[pendy]

Spill timing is the answer.

JP

[HandBuilt]

Spill timing is the answer.

JP

I bow to your superior knowledge.

Thanks Pendy.

[aloharover]

What are the symptoms of too much advance in a diesel? I know that too far retarded makes it hard to start and generally sluggish.
Should you run more advance with more boost? Given the denser air would slow the combustion process a little.

Too much advance will cause an increase in diesel rattle and may cause an increase in smoke at low speeds with no load.

Too retarded causes hard start, excessive white smoke on start up, excessive black smoke at hi speed with or with out a load. Its the excessive noise thats the bad thing, you can actually damage the pistons, or valves.

You need to increase both the amount of air coming in and out. Use a larger size exhaust, free flowing muffler, and keep the pipes as straight as possible.
Then you can turn up the fuel and boost and go a couple degrees advance on the pump timing.
I wouldn't even think about pumping up the boost or fuel unless you have an Exhaust Gas Temp gauge. EGTs are key with a diesel.

Pete

[dieselcruiserhead]

JL are you sure pin is destroyed? Understandable how it can happen. I discovered there are three settings for it. Out, then "in" then, "Really in". I think the all the way out setting is a safetly setting. Good luck with it! Never heard of someone having to wait so long to have their engine running, I think that was the first thing I did.... with the engine rattling around on the engine hoist. I was dancing around the room!!!! (didn't know if engine ran when I got it)