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Overlord
05-10-2005, 04:11 PM
I want a 220v MIG, but don’t have any 220 ckts in the house. Plus I live in base housing so I can’t just run a 220 ckt without permission. I’m going to ask if they’ll do it, but they might be reluctant, especially if I’m going to be using it for a welder. So, how are RW as a shop welder? Anyone using a Ready Welder as your primary shop welder?

madmarx
05-10-2005, 05:39 PM
Not exactly what you are asking, but I would get a 135 amp mig that runs on 110. They will weld 1/4 in a single pass. Then when you get a garage in the future with 220, sell te 135 and move up. A 110 welder is really handy to toss n the truck and take to a freinds if they need to have something welded...

69CJ
05-10-2005, 05:55 PM
call them and ask them about running a 220 drop for you - if they say no for a welder, ask them about running one for a compressor. Just a thought....

andrew
05-10-2005, 06:10 PM
Ask them for a dryer ?

Overlord
05-10-2005, 06:35 PM
The dryer in the house is gas.

Anyway, went to the housing office and filed the work order. Only thing is that I have to pay for all the install costs and it has to be by an electrician. I'm only going to be in the house for another 2 years. So, I don't really want to spend the money on the install.

So it's either a 120v welder, RW, or a premier type.

HaWiiLuVeR
05-10-2005, 06:53 PM
miller has a wire feed inverter that can run off 110 or 220. i forget the amps though.

maddog
05-10-2005, 08:21 PM
Get this one and be done with it. You can find it at:
http://a9.com/lincoln%20welder
http://www.welders-direct.com/home.htm
The SP-135 Plus combines a wire feeder and welder with features that allow anyone to make great welds! It is one of the few portable, MIG & flux-cored packages on the market to feature continuous voltage adjustment for tight procedure control.
With a convenient 115V input and 135 amps of welding power you can weld a multitude of applications from home and farm repair projects to body work in automotive shops. Also great for welding stainless steel and aluminum.
Everything you need to start welding is included in this package!
Advantage Lincoln
For welding steel, stainless steel and aluminum.
Package includes gun and cable, work clamp and cable, input power cord, guide tubes and drive rolls, gas solenoid valve, gas regulator, and spool of wire.
115V operation-no special wiring required.
Solid state output control for long life and repetitive welding applications.
Designed for .023"-.030" solid MIG wire and .035" flux-cored wire.
For welding 24 gauge through 5/16" mild steel plate.
Suitable for welding with .023"-.035" stainless steel and .035" aluminum.
Recommended Options
Aluminum Feeding Kit Includes: Drive Roll, Idle Roll, Guide Tubes, Non-metallic Cable Liner, and Contact Tips. /font>
Innershield Kit Includes: Contact Tip, Gasless Nozzle, Liner, and 10 lb. Spool of .035 Innershield® NR-211-MP wire.
Utility Cart. Processes
MIG
Flux-Cored

BrettM
05-10-2005, 08:33 PM
I have a RW as my primary welder, and although it works great (on 1/8" up steel) it is a pain doing the battery thing all the time. if it's for very occasional use I would say go for it! if you will use it quite frequently, I would consider getting a 110v wire feed welder like the one above and use that for all stuff from sheet-metal up to 3/16", and also get a RW for stuff 1/4" up to 3/4" and as a trail welder.

this is all assuming they won't give you 220v. if they'll let you at your expense, do it. how much was an electrician's quote?

beartj
05-10-2005, 08:33 PM
You can always sell the thing after you move, they don't depreciate all that much. Or just plan on getting a nice (heavy) 220v when you move and keep this one for thinner stuff/portability.

That Guy Tim
05-10-2005, 09:00 PM
Another option is the Miller Passport.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_passport/
I saw it at the AWS show in Dallas a couple of weeks ago, was skeptical at first but after getting a demo and loaner from a local dealer, I would say that it has just as much potential as a 230v machine in a very flexible package. It will run of both 115v or 230v.
Here is a really cool option with it, you can take a CO2 Mig setup that is truly portable. The CO2 is in the case. It uses the same CO2 bottles that paintball guns do. Refills are really easy and available just about anywere. It also works off of shop bottles. Two paintball canisters make for 25 minutes of contact time.
Here is the drawback, it is a little spendy. But it you want a little more capability than your standard 115v setup but can't quite swing a full blown rig. It is a viable option.

PAToyota
05-11-2005, 06:11 AM
I cannot imagine that paying an electrician for a 220V drop would be cost prohibitive. Did you get an estimate? Even for two years I'd be willing to spend some money on the drop.

That Guy Tim
05-11-2005, 06:54 AM
I cannot imagine that paying an electrician for a 220V drop would be cost prohibitive. Did you get an estimate? Even for two years I'd be willing to spend some money on the drop.

If Air Force base housing is anything like Navy housing, they have you over a barrel. They will do whatever it takes to make it as costly as they can to discuourage you from make changes to "their house".

Overlord
05-11-2005, 08:34 AM
I'm going to wait and see if the housing office will even approve of it before getting an estimate. They said that they have denied similar requests in the past.

That Guy Tim
05-11-2005, 09:06 AM
I'm going to wait and see if the housing office will even approve of it before getting an estimate. They said that they have denied similar requests in the past.
It would suprise me if they even approve your request. Did you tell them that you need it for a welder? Here on this base, if you get caught welding in housing, it is cause for eviction. Trust me I know that pain. Even though that is my JOB, they say it is too dangerous.
Good luck.

rusted
05-11-2005, 09:11 AM
Really, a 110v welder will do you for a truck. What are you going to weld that you NEED a 220v welder for? You can make multiple passes if you need to. If you're a good welder in some cases maybe that's better because you can manipulate heat signature and warping that way.

If you need to do something like weld gears or a housing, there are work arounds. #1 buy a locker. #2 the base has a shop doesn't it? I know Navy bases sometimes have an auto shop. Also maybe you could talk someone on base to do something?

Honestly, with all that trouble and paperwork, just get the 110. Lots of people are building kick ass rigs with 110v machines.

aloharover
05-11-2005, 09:12 AM
The dryer in the house is gas.


Sometimes there is still an outlet in the utility room for an electric dryer. They do this to accompany folks that have either or style of dryer.
If so then you can just get some wire and build an extension cord. Dryer plug on one end and welder on the other. I had to do this at one of the places we lived and have kept the cord ever since. Its great to not be limited on where the welder will go.
I think I used 60' of 4 guage 4 wire. I told the guy at lowes I wanted to build a 60' 30 amp extension cord and he told me what gauge I needed. I think the wire was around $1per so it was about 80-90$ with the recepticles.

Pete

PAToyota
05-11-2005, 10:59 AM
What are you going to weld that you NEED a 220v welder for?

Biggest advantage of 220V for me was duty cycle. Sure, my little 110V welder would weld what I needed to weld, but I was welding for a minute or two at full tilt and then standing around for eight or nine minutes to let it cool back down...

6869704x4
05-11-2005, 11:11 AM
When I lived there in the early 70s the stove was electric. We lived right close to Government Hill gate.
Unplug the ole ladys meatloaf and go to welding.

rusted
05-11-2005, 12:20 PM
I would love to have one of those DVIs, they are cool. Portable and you get a nearly 210 duty cycle on 220v.

I have a MM200 so I doubt I will ever run into duty cycle issues unless I start fabricating battleships. But still, with all that trouble, I'd be on a 110v unit, they do a great job.

FlexyTJ
05-11-2005, 12:35 PM
[QUOTE=That Guy Tim]Another option is the Miller Passport. [/QUOTE=That Guy Tim]


X2 on the Passport if you only have 120V but want 230V capability in the future.

I just recieved my new Hobart Ironman 210 today! Fresh off the semi :flipoff2: Now im blowing the rest of the day off work to play with it :evil: Got tired of the limitations of 120V real fast...

Pin Head
05-11-2005, 02:15 PM
Down and dirty 220V:

All houses have 220V. You just have to find it, because it will be on separate circuits with separate breakers. Look inside you breaker box to find the different circuits. Hopefully they will be labeled like "Kitchen" and "Bedroom". Run 2 extension cords from the two different circuits and use your volt meter to find the two plugs that give you 220V. Voila!

Disclaimer. This is not accepted practice according to any code I know and you will be limited to the amp capacity of the lowest circuit.

Overlord
05-11-2005, 02:46 PM
It would suprise me if they even approve your request. Did you tell them that you need it for a welder? Here on this base, if you get caught welding in housing, it is cause for eviction. Trust me I know that pain. Even though that is my JOB, they say it is too dangerous.
Good luck.

No, I told them I wanted 220 for an air compressor that I'm getting for father's day. :D

Overlord
05-11-2005, 02:51 PM
Sometimes there is still an outlet in the utility room for an electric dryer. They do this to accompany folks that have either or style of dryer.
If so then you can just get some wire and build an extension cord. Dryer plug on one end and welder on the other. I had to do this at one of the places we lived and have kept the cord ever since. Its great to not be limited on where the welder will go.
I think I used 60' of 4 guage 4 wire. I told the guy at lowes I wanted to build a 60' 30 amp extension cord and he told me what gauge I needed. I think the wire was around $1per so it was about 80-90$ with the recepticles.

Pete

Nope, only a 110v outlet.

Overlord
05-11-2005, 02:58 PM
Down and dirty 220V:

All houses have 220V. You just have to find it, because it will be on separate circuits with separate breakers. Look inside you breaker box to find the different circuits. Hopefully they will be labeled like "Kitchen" and "Bedroom". Run 2 extension cords from the two different circuits and use your volt meter to find the two plugs that give you 220V. Voila!

Disclaimer. This is not accepted practice according to any code I know and you will be limited to the amp capacity of the lowest circuit.

I don't want to burn my house down. If I can't get 220 the right way, than I'll just have to go with a 110/220 combo welder, just a 110 welder, a portable (RW or GoWeld), or an OBW like the premier stick setup.

On that note, anyone else using a RW as their primary welder?