I came across a write up awhile back on adding a Ford type relay/solenoid in line with the Chevy solenoid that that will help with hot start problems that are common with the Chevy solenoid being mounted on the starter. But... I can't seem to find it now. Anyone have a link to a similar write up? Thanks for your help!

The way I've done it is to make a small metal plate with 2 holes to jump between the hot and trigger terminals on the starter, then wire it up like a Ford. Solved the hot-start problem on my Firechicken.

Pete

There is a write up on that here www.novaresource.com
Go to the site map page and its towards the bottom of the page in the tech info section.

Thanks for the replies. It is much appreciated.

I made my own aux start solenoid system copying the kit that Painless and Summit sells.
It a very simple mod, and works well. I got tired of pulling starters, replacing solenoids, and repairing solenoids, headers do a number on Chevy starters........
:skull:

I have my own way of using the Ford solenoid and in truth, it is better than the commonly done way.

You leave all of the wiring the same as factory, but then you take the solenoid trigger wire off (it's pink, turns hot when the key is turned to "start") and use that to close the Ford solenoid. Then you run at least 10 guage wire from the battery to the Ford solenoid and from the Ford solenoid output to the Chevy solenoid (where you removed the pink wire). The "Nova board" way works well and is a big improvement over stock for hot starts, but this way is just a little better because you starter current is going through only one set of solenoid contacts instead of 2. The whole idea is that the Chevy solenoid gets maximum current, instead of relying on the long pink wire that runs too far and is too skinny.

You also have the option, of course, to run heavier wire from the battery to the starter. You have to still use the Chevy solenoid, you can't bypass it. Other wise, the starter motor will begin to turn before the gear has engaged the flywheel.

I bought a cheap starter heat shield from JEGS and it seems to help a lot.
They also sell heat tape (not the proper name) that can wrap around the section of pipe running close to your starter that will help too, but I don't have it on mine.
-- Mike

Sorry for bringing back an old thread, but I used some search findings and it didn't fix my problem.

OK...so I wire up this aux solinoid. I have the ford(actually I'm using a Jeep solinoid) solinoid, and have the chevy solinoid(on the starter) powered with 2 gauge and a jumper from the S terminal on the starter. I have a line from a push button starter wired off the hot side(connected to battery), and the other side of my push button to the S terminal.

I have a kill switch inline from the I terminal to the coil.

2 things happening

1. When I wired it up as said, my engine will only start while I have my finger on the starter. After that it dies. I am not going through the typical column starter. Apparently the I terminal only powers with my finger on the start button. Is this what causes the problem? I guess I just don't understand the "I" terminal on a starter solinoid. So I corrected this by moving the coil wire to the Battery, so the coil will always get juice as long as my kill switch is on.

2. When I have the on/off switch in between the coil to "off", the starter will spin the flywheel all day long and the motor won't start obviously b/c there is no spark.

But when I put power to the coil, my starter will engage for a second, then pull away from the flywheel but still spin. Sometimes, it will jump back in(doesn't sound good), but most of the times it will spin enough for me to get it started.

This is a recent 350 swap into my Heep, and I'm not 100% certain on any wiring but this starter switch. I do not have my ground hooked up off my coil(labeled tach). I have a battery ground to my motor as well as a ground from my motor to the frame, as well as solid motor mounts to the frame, so I don't think engine grounding is a problem. I'm not sure on my alternater wiring, but I don't think this would affect my starter issue. I could always be wrong.

Sorry for the long post, but can any of you electrical gurus help me out? Thanks for any help in advance,
John:confused:

Anyone got any ideas?
John

Originally posted by Big Blue Jimmy
I have my own way of using the Ford solenoid and in truth, it is better than the commonly done way.

You leave all of the wiring the same as factory, but then you take the solenoid trigger wire off (it's pink, turns hot when the key is turned to "start") and use that to close the Ford solenoid. Then you run at least 10 guage wire from the battery to the Ford solenoid and from the Ford solenoid output to the Chevy solenoid (where you removed the pink wire). The "Nova board" way works well and is a big improvement over stock for hot starts, but this way is just a little better because you starter current is going through only one set of solenoid contacts instead of 2. The whole idea is that the Chevy solenoid gets maximum current, instead of relying on the long pink wire that runs too far and is too skinny.

You also have the option, of course, to run heavier wire from the battery to the starter. You have to still use the Chevy solenoid, you can't bypass it. Other wise, the starter motor will begin to turn before the gear has engaged the flywheel.

This is how newer (since 198?) Ford starters work.

Originally posted by UTJMAC1
1. When I wired it up as said, my engine will only start while I have my finger on the starter. After that it dies. I am not going through the typical column starter. Apparently the I terminal only powers with my finger on the start button. Is this what causes the problem? I guess I just don't understand the "I" terminal on a starter solinoid. So I corrected this by moving the coil wire to the Battery, so the coil will always get juice as long as my kill switch is on.

2. When I have the on/off switch in between the coil to "off", the starter will spin the flywheel all day long and the motor won't start obviously b/c there is no spark.

But when I put power to the coil, my starter will engage for a second, then pull away from the flywheel but still spin. Sometimes, it will jump back in(doesn't sound good), but most of the times it will spin enough for me to get it started.

Sorry for the long post, but can any of you electrical gurus help me out? Thanks for any help in advance,
John:confused:

The I stud off the solenoid only has power while the engine is being cranked (so the coil has power while cranking) after the starter is not being engaged the ignition swith (stock GM) goes to the run/on position and the coil then gets power from the ignition switch that way. So that does it for number 1. Number 2, I don't know.

I am having started/solenoid problems and happed across this post in my "search" for info.

Originally posted by UTJMAC1
Sorry for bringing back an old thread, but I used some search findings and it didn't fix my problem.

OK...so I wire up this aux solinoid. I have the ford(actually I'm using a Jeep solinoid) solinoid, and have the chevy solinoid(on the starter) powered with 2 gauge and a jumper from the S terminal on the starter. I have a line from a push button starter wired off the hot side(connected to battery), and the other side of my push button to the S terminal.



Do you still have the starter button hooked up the the chevy starter solenoid? Sounds like you're loosing power to the S terminal on the chevy starter solenoid.

i mounted my ford selonoid on the inner fender well under where the battery use to be. i took the purple ign. wire and hooked it up to terminal s ond the selonoid. i jumped the factory selonoid on the chevy starter. split the battery cable in half and hooked it up to each side of the selonoid. never had a problem after that.
here apic of how it was mounted. sorry for the dark pic. sorry if this was said or showed already,but i didnt read all the posts in this thread.

http://www.sy-ty.com/albums/gmc-syclone/selonoid.sized.jpg