All the reasonably built home brewed link suspensions I've seen used rod ends(aka hiem joints).

Is there a reason to use a rod end instead of a jonny joint?

The two benefits I see of using a jonny joint instead of the rod end is being able to rebuild the jonny joint and "safety". By safety, I mean if the internals of a jonny joint fail, it is still held on by the outer casing while a rod end has no safety feature built into it like this:(

From what I have seen, a jonny joint costs as much as a quality rod end. OTOH, you can get big ass cheap rod ends for dirt cheap.

The only other thing I'm not sure about is the max angle of mis alignment operation of the jonny joint. I know a rod end can do approximately 15-20 degrees.

We're building a 4 link setup for a fullsize Bronco with Rockwell axles and 44" tires and using Johnny joints. I agree with you on both features, and yes they do cost as much as a quality heim joint. Wagoner machine also uses Johnny joints as opposed to heim joints on their suspensions. The only down side to doing it this way that I can see is that you lose the adjustability that you'd have with heim joints. I have a traction bar on my Jeep that I used heim joints on, and I'll be changing that some day because I've started to break them. Another guy in my club has the same issue, he's breaking the heim joints too. IMHO, use the Johnny joints.

Another point I forgot to mention is that the urethane in the Johnny joint will isolate noise and vibrations whereas a heim joint won't. It is also greaseable.

I've used JJ's on mine for a couple years now and love them, and the replacement/rebuild cost it worth it, cause eventually the all will wear out.

Originally posted by Lil'John

The only other thing I'm not sure about is the max angle of mis alignment operation of the jonny joint. I know a rod end can do approximately 15-20 degrees.

I have used "heim Joints" that had a "misalighnment angle" of 44 Degree's. I do think my next set of "traction/wrap bars" are gonna have the "Johnny Joints" in them...

I'm going johny joint on my rig, and have built them to be replacable.
I got a 1" grade 8 bolt
machine a curve into the head
and welded it to the JJ
not I have some adjustability, and if one goes south I can pull it and rebuild or replace depening on the damage.
I'll try and post pics if anyone is interested.

Thanks for the answers(whew... I was getting worried at 30 views and no answers :p)

Anyways, what is the max misalignment angle for a jonny joint?

fcfred, I'd love to see some pictures... might give me some more ideas :D

3/4" Hiem joints run from 5000 lb. to 40,000 lb load ratings...what can the jonny joints handle ?

I have Johnnie from Downey, they use a 5/8" bolt, and go to about 30 deg., The 9/16" JJ's from Currie go to like 32 degrees.

If you are gonna run bigger tires, over 40" I would say use the 5/8" JJ's. Heims will do better at preventing axle-wrap, though. If i were building control arms, i would probably use 1-1/4" heims with misalignment spacers for 3/4" bolts. They would go to like 40 degrees, and still be really strong.

Laters-

Originally posted by dirtrod
3/4" Hiem joints run from 5000 lb. to 40,000 lb load ratings...what can the jonny joints handle ?

I ran a few calcs on RE joints and I estimated them to be about 24,000-26,000. What you can do is find the surface area of the ball and the compression strength of the material that is used as the race. I think that will get you pretty close. Also, I would give my left nut to see one of these break. Yes, Camo my left NUT.

http://www.polyperformance.com/DSC00001.jpg:D

OK, rod ends I can find, but other than Currie, where can one find Johnny Joints at reasonable prices?

http://www.allprooffroad.com/assorted.html

:D

My plan is to get some high quality 1" bore 1.25 shank heims, and run machined down poly bushings that fit inside of them. They would serve two purposes. To act as high misalignment spacers, and dampen vibrations. I figure with the huge heims, that spead surface pressure over a large area, and soft bushings dampening much of the vibration before it reaches the heims, that the heims should last a very long time.

I give all the credit for this idea to Sam Silviera at sierrarockcrawlers.com as he is the first person that I have seen do this.



Sean

for adjustibility you can go all out and get some tera flex arms cut off the bushing end and weld in johnnies it costs a bunch but $$$$ isn't supposed to be an issue with true gear heads and anyone addicted to this site is a true gear head

Originally posted by Station
My plan is to get some high quality 1" bore 1.25 shank heims, and run machined down poly bushings that fit inside of them. They would serve two purposes. To act as high misalignment spacers, and dampen vibrations. I figure with the huge heims, that spead surface pressure over a large area, and soft bushings dampening much of the vibration before it reaches the heims, that the heims should last a very long time.

I give all the credit for this idea to Sam Silviera at sierrarockcrawlers.com as he is the first person that I have seen do this.



Sean

Sounds like it may be a good idea.

Originally posted by duane85runr/72fj40
for adjustibility you can go all out and get some tera flex arms cut off the bushing end and weld in johnnies it costs a bunch but $$$$ isn't supposed to be an issue with true gear heads and anyone addicted to this site is a true gear head

This doesnt sound like a very good idea to me. You are still going to have to take 1 end of the link either off of the axle or frame to adjust them. Could you imagine having to go though all of that when dialing in a front triangulated 4 link?:eek: And if you are able to cut and weld the ends, why not just make them yourself insead of from "Terrible-Flex"?


Sean

here's my custom
freddy joints

Originally posted by fcfred
here's my custom
freddy joints
are you planning on "acting" like the nut is a weld-in sleeve...or are you going to tap the arm? thanx

my arms are 2" x .25 wall square so the first nut will be plug welded inside. Then there will be a drilled cap welded on the end. and then the second nut will lock it in place. my plan was to only use this on the top arms and have the bottom arms welded directly to the Johny Joint, for added strength, but now I am not sure if I should do that since that arm will take more abuse and I may want to replace them eventually?! any input on that?

http://www.allprooffroad.com/pics/3515.jpg

hmmm has anyone thought of putting one of these through the frame for a shackle mount on a RS arangment??

Seems that is would allow for quite a bit of movement as the springs flex and twist, but still be quite secure and strong, as well longer lasting..


thoughts, comments??? Am I smoking crack..:smokin:

him, I like that idea
the only problem I see was that i needed a press just to put mine together, but I still thinki it's a great idea

that crack is helping!

How much press was required??

Like a c-clamp, or one of those 3:1 ball-joint tools....


Or the big 50-ton unit :D

I tried pressing them together with a C-clamp, and a big socket, no luck. I had to use a vise, and it was still a PITA. a press might be nice if you acces to one. It would be a good idea for springs, but getting the bushiongs in after welding would be difficult.