The saga of Shopgrrl's Rangie continues in true Land Rover fashion.

Keep in mind that in the relatively short period of time we've owned this truck, it has gotten a newer engine, new rotors and calipers on the front, both rear shocks have broken and have been replaced with used from a parts truck (talk about CB!) and now, the rear diff is leaking like a sieve. I'm currently trying to figure out exactly where it's leaking.

As it is a personal vehicle, I'm trying to fix it as cheaply and quickly as possible (there will be no groceries, nor beer in the house until it's fixed-for God's sake!!!). I'm wondering if I can weld it shut without disassembling the diff. I can see many reasons for both stripping it down or just cleaning it up and welding the hole shut.

For some reason, the fuel tank seems to be in good shape so I'm not worried baout that problem, but the panel that holds it in place is very badly rusted and gonna need replacement before too long-good thing another parts truck is coming home as soon as Shopboy gets the trailer ready.

Lastly, I need to get this done pronto as Shopgrrl is really pissed at me for eating her Gyro that I found in the fridge this morning :laughing:

Anybody got any suggestions for me? Telling me to get her a Toyota is not an acceptable response!

PT

JB weld a metal patch over it. Seems similar to most of your CB style repair attempts. :flipoff2: :p

I have weld on diff guards. I just drained the fluid, welded 'em on and refilled.

JB weld a metal patch over it. Seems similar to most of your CB style repair attempts. :flipoff2: :p

I'm embarrassed to say I thought of that.

My fathers ex-rangie (1990) leaked when he bought it, fall of 2002.
We emptied the diff, cleaned meticulously and JB-welded it (not really JB-weld since we do not have it here, but metal reinforced epoxy two pack)

He sold it a few months ago to a fellow club member, who now has welded the hole, since it started leaking as soon as he got it, or perhaps already at father's.
So you will get approx two years from a JB-weld.

Tobias

Cant imagine where its leaking unless you hit it on something, but who cares. Weld it up. Clean all the oil, and check for drips. If it does not drip imediatly, set up welder, clean once more, and weld. Even if you drain it, you will still get a leak if its at the bottom of the diff, cause your never gonna get it all out.

I can see many reasons for both stripping it down or just cleaning it up and welding the hole shut.PT
yeah, i had to do that once... or twice.

go for it! :flipoff2:
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/evacuation/images/pass.jpg

now now hears a lesson in been a cb 101
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=187475&stc=1

Grind, weld, grind, weld, grind, weld, grind, weld,grind, weld. Repeat as necessary or until you realize it really would have been better to swap the rear-end!

PT

Paul, you should be able to swap the rear housing in about 4 hours, if you have a spare laying around.

4hrs, what are you taking a nap half way through? How bad could the hole possibly be. We filled a 1.5" dimameter hole on Ben tanners front diff with Right stuff, and coverd it with Duct tape untill it cured. He drove over 5000Miles untill we sewer capped it. If you dont beleive me, there should be a few witnesses here, as well as Bill burke.

Im telling you Right stuff is fawking bad ass.

I don't want to fucking talk about it. I'm about ready to start cutting one out of a parts truck-in fact if it wasn't for the horrible rust on all of the bolts, I'd have already done this.

Shoulda used the JB weld.

4hrs, what are you taking a nap half way through?
nope, just a few beers. The worst part is getting "at it."
let's see...
the truck on jack stands, axle jacked up, wheels off - 10 min
brake calipers, lines, and tee, off and hanging outta the way - 10 min
driveshaft off - 5 min
sway bar off - 10 min
shocks off - 5 min
trailing arms off - 10 min
upper A-arm off - 10 min

so, about an hour to get the axle out... about as much to put one in...
I can't remember how much did it take me to reassemble the complete axle (I've only done the front from pieces), but... looks like fair estimate to me. Also, those are dry SouthWest times - meaning every bolt and nut comes off as soon as trigger on air gun is squeezed.

nope, just a few beers. The worst part is getting "at it."
let's see...
the truck on jack stands, axle jacked up, wheels off -beer 10 min
brake calipers, lines, and tee, off and hanging outta the way -beer 10 min
driveshaft off -beer 5 min
take a piss -2 min
sway bar off -beer 10 min
shocks off -beer 5 min
'nother piss -2 min
trailing arms off -beer 10 min
upper A-arm off -beer 10 min
fall asleep -120 min
so, about an hour and another hour and another hour and 4 min to get the axle out... about as much to put one in...
I can't remember how much did it take me to reassemble the complete axle (I've only done the front from pieces), but... looks like fair estimate to me. Also, those are dry SouthWest times - meaning every bolt and nut comes off as soon as trigger on air gun is squeezed.
I fixed it and added more accurate times for you. Or at least it would work that way for me.
I used JB Weld on a seal housing on a dampener on a BMW and the seal never leaked 3 years later. JB Weld rocks.

OK, spent two freaking hours going back to square one. All the leaky welds are ground off, I'm now as deaf as Ike and have little to no feeling in my fingers from the grinder. Time to get back to it.

As far as removing this axle is concerned...

This truck is so rusty, it would take me longer just to break the A-arm bolts loose than it would take Peter to do the whole damned job!

my attention span is pretty short - so I stay clear of projects that I cannot finish in reasonable time (like, a few days). So my actual wrenching time must be between Roverhound's and Puffdragon's.