While I realize this would better be placed at dipshitweb.com, indulge me: just picked up a '93 lwb for a daily driver, and it needs brakes. it's my first rover with ABS and while I've done more than a few brake jobs on non-abs rovers, I really don't feel like effing up the ABS system on this thing (and need to get it done and inspected ASAP). So, anything different about a brake job (just pads) on ABS vs. non-ABS? All my workshop manuals are for non-abs trucks. Plan was to open bleed screws, push pistons in, close bleed screws, pull old pads, insert new pads, bleed with power bleeder, call it a day.

Thx,

Tony

I always force the piston in with big channel locks, and leave the bleed screws alone.

-Jeff

power bleeder good ... a 2nd person to help is even better. give yourself a day - it takes us newbies awhile to do it right.

I've never bothered to open the bleed screws when changing the pads either. just make sure to fully bleed the system every year or two.

IF the pistons aren't rusted, swapping the pads is a 15 minute job. You'll spend more time lifting and removing wheels than doing the job. BUT if the pistons are rusted, you're fawked.

BUT if the pistons are rusted, you're fawked.

As they have been on the last two I've done :mad3:

Thanks for the responses, I'll knock it out tonight.

I always force the piston in with big channel locks, and leave the bleed screws alone.

-Jeff

Forgive my bad english.
Can you find a pic of a channel lock?
What is it.

This is one of the tasks where I still have not found a suitable tool to succeed.

Forgive my bad english.
Can you find a pic of a channel lock?
What is it.

This is one of the tasks where I still have not found a suitable tool to succeed.

P-O-L-Y-G-R-I-P

I know you use it already. :flipoff2:

http://www.911supplies.com/index.cfm?action=cat.productOptions&productID=71098&categoryid=2917

and use the old pad as a cushion between the piston and the pliers.

I've also used a big C clamp to push the piston in a little more square and get a better grip on the outside of the caliper.

/Hijack
OK Channel locks do not always succeed in moving rusted pistons.
Last brake job (swedish brick, but similar calipers to RRC rear)
two of these
http://www.jula.se/Butik/docs/imp_search.asp?OrderId=398156263&newsearch=skruvtving+skyddsbackar&max_pris=&orderby=produkt_grund,%20imprank&direction=asc
tightened one after the other till they bent were not enough.
New calipers are now installed.
I could have saved them if I could only bet the pistons to move.
But at $88 each I wouldn't bother...

Anyways, a suggestion for tools to make it a success every time is appreciated.

T

i was amazed at how much water was in the ABS system on my '91 when I first bought it. it's a good idea to switch it out - no telling what you have for fluid right now. if it hasn't been done for awhile, you'll want to flush the system through with at least 1 or 2 bottles of clean fluid until all the seal bits and dirt and crap are out of the system.

or you can just rely on the water, and wait for your brakes to fail after they start boiling. your choice :flipoff2:

Yah, I was planning on pushing new fluid through the entire system regardless. Though sitting at work I can't remember what it calls for -- DOT 5?

Dot 4

/Hijack
OK Channel locks do not always succeed in moving rusted pistons.
Last brake job (swedish brick, but similar calipers to RRC rear)
two of these
http://www.jula.se/Butik/docs/imp_search.asp?OrderId=398156263&newsearch=skruvtving+skyddsbackar&max_pris=&orderby=produkt_grund,%20imprank&direction=asc
tightened one after the other till they bent were not enough.
New calipers are now installed.
I could have saved them if I could only bet the pistons to move.
But at $88 each I wouldn't bother...

Anyways, a suggestion for tools to make it a success every time is appreciated.

T

http://www.donkihote.com/images15000000/13181708.jpg

But you need big ones like these...

-Jeff

Edit: Officially known as the bigAZZ
http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/2/product1.cfm?&SID=2&Product_ID=4