: Lifts and what not.


PowerStrokin
05-17-2005, 08:17 AM
Ok, heres the deal. I have a 1995 F-250 extended cab long bed with the 7.3. I want to lift it, but i dont have 800 bux to drop on a rough country lift kit. So i am thinking about just using 3 inch blocks, but i want to know can blocks also be used in the front? And if not, what is the best way to lift the truck and keep the cost down.

Thanks in advance,
Josh

Apogee
05-17-2005, 08:45 AM
Do everybody a favor and don't put blocks in the front of your rig. It isn't safe, that's why no lift kit company offers such a lift. Due to the forces on your front axle caused by turning, suspension articulation, and traction you can spit blocks out and have a very ugly scenario. Most serious wheelers wouldn't even run angle shims to adjust pinion angle and/or castor, they'll cut and rotate the housing or knuckles instead.

Save your money and put together a real lift kit. Or better yet, keep your center of gravity uber-low and spend your money on big tires and wheels and then borrow a Sawzall and get to work. I would think you could fit 37-40's on that truck without too much difficulty and the thing will wheel awesome.

You might want to move this to the "Newbie" section...you're just asking for a flaming. Do a little searching, there's tons of good info on this forum just waiting to be read. There are a lot of cost effective tips to be had with regards to wheeling on the cheap...Just my two cents.

PowerStrokin
05-17-2005, 08:50 AM
I didn't think that blocks in the front was a good idea. I also do not want to chop up a perfectly good 1995 F-250, I just want want decent ground clearance. So what would i need to lift the front of the truck?

D60
05-17-2005, 09:20 AM
Dude, TTB travels in an arc. If you just lift at the spring, even w a block, you'll wind up with a ton of postive camber, \ /. You need to drop your beam pivots as well to bring the camber back into spec. It ain't terribly easy to do, terribly cheap to buy, or terribly easy to build drop brackets yourself.

This is not to say that it's a serious fab project, but it's just not as simple as lifting a solid axle. At least you won't need radius arm drops on that F250

PowerStrokin
05-17-2005, 09:54 AM
Ok so i can lift the rear with blocks but, what do i need to get for the front? and am i going to be able to do it for under 300 bux. I can install it all my self.

mudtoy67
05-17-2005, 10:04 AM
You might be able to put up to a 2" add-a-leaf up front and still be able to have your alignment in spec. I have seen a bunch of coil sprung trucks either with 2" leveling springs or a 2" coil bucket drop. To get the alignment back in to specs you have to get new alignment eccentrics for the ball joints that have a greater available angle...any alignment shop should be able to get these.

I know it's not 3" like you wanted, but that's about the best you can do without having to buy the TTB drop brackets.

PowerStrokin
05-17-2005, 10:10 AM
Yes that was my next step if i couldnt find away around this. Do you think i will be able to fit 35's? Also.. I had an idea of just puting F350 leafs, shocks and springs in... would that work?

mudtoy67
05-17-2005, 10:51 AM
Now that I think of it, my brother-in-law had a 96 F250 HD that fit 35s without any lift. There was a little rubbing on the front, but he also had a big cow catcher grill gaurd on it. You probably could fit 35s without, but just to make sure you might do the 2" add a leaf and get it aligned, and it should for sure clear then.

Try going to Discount Tire Co. (America's Tire Co.) or NTB, sometimes if they have the tire in stock they will try it on your truck to make sure it fits before you "buy it". I've done this a few times.

I think you could prob get a set of add a leafs cheaper than a pair of F350 springs, unless you already have them laying around.

KansasJoe
05-17-2005, 10:57 AM
The twin I is a pain but your cheapest bet is to just add a leaf....you can technically get about 2-1/2" as long as you have it aligned afterwards (depends on how much it has sagged over the years)....i'd go with an add a leaf for the rear too but if you want to go blocks make sure you get some steel ones with 7/16 hole in it (3/8 is ok but you'll have to drill it out)...lot of those fords have blocks already in them and if that's the case you don't want to double stack and defenitely go with the add a leaf...while you have those springs out you may as well replace the bushings while you're at it cause that IFS is brutal on those bushings....your shocks will fit on the front...fyi the f350 hd springs are 3485 lbs and f250's are 2575 lbs

PowerStrokin
05-17-2005, 11:33 AM
Thanks for the info guys i think i am gona do the add a leaf in the front and see about geting some 35s sized up.. if that dont work i guess ill be happy with 33s for now

94stepsideford
05-17-2005, 04:18 PM
I ran 35's on my 150 with only 2" of liftfor a few days. just a little sawzall action made them fit okay. I figure with a 5or 6" lift on it i could fit 38's

jwhoss76
05-19-2005, 04:00 PM
I've got 34 in LTBs on my 88 Bronco with no lift. If all you want is more ground clearance get a sawzall and cut the fenders. You can fit almost any size tire by cutting fenders, but they'll still rub on the radius arms.

82F100SWB
05-19-2005, 08:59 PM
35's should fit on your F250 without any lift if your springs are in good shape. a leveling kit would probably eliminate any rubbing that might occour up front, but, you shouldn't need any lift in the rear.