Lookin to start choppin down and narrowing the front and rear of the blazer. Ive seen the pics of it done before, but im also lookin for a write up.
Anyone?

The fronts been done in so many ways, I dont really see a standard. I've also seen the rear done about three different ways also.

Do you want to keep the space between the rear fenders? There are two ways there. How about on the front? Do you want to skin and angle in the fender or notch and bend them in so you can keep the stock hinges? Keep the stock headlights? It all depends on what you are after I guess.

Here are a few of mine when I first did it. I kept the headlights, skinned the entire front for weight and angled in the rear inner fenders. 9.5" off of each corner. Its well worth the effort.

http://planet4x4.net/pics/over005.jpg

http://planet4x4.net/pics/over004.jpg

http://www.planet4x4.net/bb04/prit1.jpg

the only real space i need in the bed is for a fuel cell, but the space you got in the back of yours looks good and it looks like you cut alot off. As for the front i dont really care about keeping the stock lights, i got a set of lightforce lights i got for christmas that i havnt used yet, so i figuare i could just use those. The stock hindges dont have to stay, because i planned on choppin down a 4 inch, lift off outlaw cowl hood (would that be smart???)


where do i really need to make the strees cuts on the front to bring the fenders in?

im guessin the cut i need to make on the cab is on the bottom of the b post where it meets the rail huh?


you wouldnt to have a pic of your engine bay would you?

This is the only one that I have easy access to. I'll have to take some pics or something. This is with the driver side done and not the passenger side. Still have the longer bumper on it.

http://planet4x4.net/pics/narrow2.jpg

To get the front fender to go in. You have to skin it out and shop down on the end of the cowl area. This is so the fender does not "pivit" on the cowl and stick up at the door if that makes any sense. In fact, on the passenger side, the heater motor just clears the inside of the outer skin of the fender. Where the hood hing bolts to gets cut out, the end metal area on the cowl gets removed. I also ditched the top bolt on the fender as that had to go away. On the front, I kept the headlights so I cut out the bucket area from the radiator support and moved it in and remounted it leaving the fender bolt on area. The radiator support is now held in place with 1/2 rod stock up to the firwall. It works ok but I plan on remounting it when I can get to it as it shifts around some and rattles.

This was a "figure it out as you go" type of project. A few other people have done this over on CK5.com and they improved a bit on my efforts. My grill area now measures 52" wide.

Hope this helps some.

Oh the fiberglass hood is fine. I skinned mine out and pinned it and it works OK. Looks kinds like shit when you get close but on the trail it looks fine.

but your still using your "stock" sized radiator and radiator position eh?

as far as heater and stuff i took that out in favor of puttin the battery there. i figuared there was no right or wrong way to do it or a set of rules to gop by, i just wanted some general guidlines to point me in the right direction. Thanks.

i figuared there was no right or wrong way to do it or a set of rules to gop by

Yeah, pretty much.

The radiator on mine pulled back enough that I had to ditch the stock fan and put an electric in there. The hood pulled back enough that I pulled the cowl and threw it away. I also run a BB. A small block might work better on the fan setup.