hey guys i got a couple of questions
1. will hummer rims clear the stock steering arms on a dana 60,
aka can i run my stock tierod in the stock place, its a chevy 60 if it matters, i have full hydro so no draglink issues
2. will they clear a rear 14 bolt, fine
3. i dont care about runflats...so do u have to have them, to put tires on the rims and still have the beadlock feature?
thanks guys please help fast:smokin:

also does anybody run these with the 39.5 tsls on fullwidth axles if so what is ur width outside of tire to outside of tire???

ohh ya will they clear the front breaks?????:smokin:

I stuck a hummer rim on my front Chevy D60 and it didn't clear the brake caliper by a lot-1/4" of grinding at least. It *appeared* that the tierod would fit, and the stock arm was off at the time IIRC.

Squash

I'd love to help you, but I type slow.......

Answers to your questions:

1. will hummer rims clear the stock steering arms on a dana 60,
aka can i run my stock tierod in the stock place, its a chevy 60 if it matters, i have full hydro so no draglink issues

No it will not fit. You have to cut the tie rod end arms off the front of the knuckles or run a wheel spacer. High clearance steering arms are very handy to modify to be spaced in to clear the rims and attach your tie rod.

2. will they clear a rear 14 bolt, fine

Probably, but I have heard of some people having leaf spring clearance issues if they are on a full size truck.

3. i dont care about runflats...so do u have to have them, to put tires on the rims and still have the beadlock feature?
thanks guys please help fast

You should care about the run flats. The 16.5" tire bead design stinks and you cannot air down without seriously risking frequent, and might I add frustrating, down time on the trail while you reseat the bead on your tires. The run flats work well, use them.

4. also does anybody run these with the 39.5 tsls on fullwidth axles if so what is ur width outside of tire to outside of tire???

I have the 38.5x16x16.5" TSL's on my Hummer rims and Chevy Dana 60. I am 80.5" outer edges of tire to tire. The 39.5's are very close to the same width, so that would be a good ballpark.

Hope this helps,

Ed

Originally posted by BIGASSYJ
ohh ya will they clear the front breaks?????:smokin:

Mine required removing all the casting flash and ridges from the outer radius of the brake caliper. Everything else on the brakes fit just fine.

Ed

Hmmm.... What is the width of hummer rims, and what is the backspacing?

Would it be possible to weld in the safety bead to the inner bead, and a weld on beadlock kit for the outer bead?

8.25" wide and 7" backspacing.

Don't know why you would reinvent the mil-spec beadlock. It really works well on the split rim design. Some folks don't like the magnesium insert's run flat device, but rubber beadlock only devices are available.

Ed

Originally posted by DRM
Hmmm.... What is the width of hummer rims, and what is the backspacing?

Would it be possible to weld in the safety bead to the inner bead, and a weld on beadlock kit for the outer bead?

Hey, I'm wanting to do pretty much the same thing. Will the 8 bolt beadlock lock that bead well without the runflat? If it would, I would like to put it on the inside and weld rockstomper beadlocks on the other bead. Would this work? Or would the 8 bolt beadlock side unseat/leak frequently?

Originally posted by Aceguy


Hey, I'm wanting to do pretty much the same thing. Will the 8 bolt beadlock lock that bead well without the runflat? If it would, I would like to put it on the inside and weld rockstomper beadlocks on the other bead. Would this work? Or would the 8 bolt beadlock side unseat/leak frequently?

I think there's some confusion is how the hummer beadlock works.

Unlike a conventional beadlock, the hummer system is all inside the rim. A metal spacer just big enough to get squished between the inside beads on the tire by the two halves of the rim. Since the entire rim comes apart in two halves, that lets you put the beadlock into the tire and then bolt the rim onto it.

Now, could you disassemble the rim, deep six the beadlock/runflat and weld on the rockstomper beadlock? Sure, but you are stuck with the poor taper of the 16.5" rim desing on the inner bead still, and the brakes would have a REALLY hard time squeezing inside of a beadlock ring installed on the inner side of the hummer rim.

The system designed for the military really is quite good. I have had zero problems or issues with it's design.

Hope this helped,

Ed

So, if I'm understanding correctly, the 8 bolt beadlock doesn't actually clamp the bead of the tire by itself. It clamps against the runflat, which in turn puts pressure on the opposite side tire bead. So no runflat, no beadlock on either side. I understand that most people think that the military design is good, but how would it hold on to a 42" tsl at 4 psi in the hammers under a 3500 lb rig? Is it going to be able to hang onto those beads under EXTREME rockcrawling conditions? thanks for the help, btw. :D

Originally posted by Aceguy
So, if I'm understanding correctly, the 8 bolt beadlock doesn't actually clamp the bead of the tire by itself. It clamps against the runflat, which in turn puts pressure on the opposite side tire bead. So no runflat, no beadlock on either side. I understand that most people think that the military design is good, but how would it hold on to a 42" tsl at 4 psi in the hammers under a 3500 lb rig? Is it going to be able to hang onto those beads under EXTREME rockcrawling conditions? thanks for the help, btw. :D

You got it figured!

Now, as to durability.....

I am stuck here in TX and wheel the hardest stuff around, but is it the equal to the Hammers? Heck I dunno. For all I know, I am a complete street jeeper compared to all you fine people out west.

What I do have is the 16" wide 38.5's which are about the same width as the 42's, a 5500lb rig and i have run it as low as 4psi and had no problems. I think you would be ok too. Again, I can't say how tough the trails out there are by the pictures without actually walking/driving them. They look a little tougher than the run of the mill stuff I can get to, but not that much harder than a couple of the new trails we have built out here. From friends that have run both, supposedly we are in the neighborhood of Upper Proving grounds difficulty, and the hummer rims are not an issue. My driving skills however......well let's not go there. :)

Ed

good info, thanks man. I think I'm all straightened out. for now.:D

Can anyone explaine the difference between the two types of beadlocks (8 &12 bolt) and do the rubber run flats work as well as the magnesium ones and can you run any type of tire (bias ply or steel belted) with either runflat or (8 &12 bolt) basically what are the limitations and advantages of using a Hummer rim vs. a standard bead lock.
I've found more useful info in this thread than I have checking out the sites that sell Hummer rims and the Hummer clubs, in the time it took me to read these 7 or so posts I've learned as much as about 2 hours of surfing e-mailing and calling the guys selling them, I guess what I'm trying to say is thanx for this site and I LOVE YOU GUYS MAN.:cool:

that's another good question. rubber runflat or magnesium? what's the difference? 8 or 12 bolt? Do you find 8 bolts with either rubber or magnesium? or does one bolt pattern come with one type of runflat, and one with the other? damn, I thought I was all straightened out. :D

Now you are pushing my knowledge to the limit (funny how close that limit really is, isn't it?) but I will try to remember.

I thing there are 3 different designs on the hummer rims.

one 8 bolt and two 12 bolt designs.

The 8 bolt is for bias ply tires only, and I believe they all came with the magnesium run flat. (this is what I have and know)

The 12 bolts have both bias and radial tire models and have a variety of bead locks and runflats. The majority of them, if not all, are rubber, but a comparative pain to install versus the magnesium ones.

12 bolt rims are also good to a much higher PSI than the 8 bolt ones, but we really don't care about highway load carrying capacity and big PIS numbers on there rigs anyway, do we?

The 8 bolt is easier to find, and substantially cheaper, and some say less desireable due to the magnesium run flat. I really like the 8 bolt due to it's simplicity and ease of tear down and reassembly on the trail with a tire iron and a 9/16" box end. The rubber beadlocks require straps and coaxing to get installed.
Both seem to work very well.

Now as compared to a standard style beadlock? I think they are better all around. This is due to:

1. No bolts on the rim to bugger up
2. Both the inner and outer beads are locked on the rim
3. I can run full width axles and keep the track width down (read much cheaper due to no custom parts or machine work)
4. I could balance them if I wanted to mess with it.

Now as to running radial tires on them.....why would you run radials in the rocks?

Ed

oh, you're the freakin man. :cool: Great info. BTW, who said anything about radials?? :D I'll be running 42" tsl's. So you don't know of anyone having their tire killed by the magnesium runflat? I'm ready to sign up. I've been having a hell of a time finding a wheel for my rockwells. I plan to have daniel at 6x6 weld in custom rockwell inserts dead center in these wheels, which should give me about 4-3/8" backspacing, which is about max for the rockwell axle, from what I understand. I think this setup is going to work well. Thanks again.

Originally posted by Aceguy
oh, you're the freakin man. :cool: Great info. BTW, who said anything about radials?? :D I'll be running 42" tsl's. So you don't know of anyone having their tire killed by the magnesium runflat? I'm ready to sign up. I've been having a hell of a time finding a wheel for my rockwells. I plan to have daniel at 6x6 weld in custom rockwell inserts dead center in these wheels, which should give me about 4-3/8" backspacing, which is about max for the rockwell axle, from what I understand. I think this setup is going to work well. Thanks again.

Thanks for the compliment!

Tonto is the one that asked about radials. I don't like em myself. Not sure there are any large enough to be worth putting on these rims.

I have heard rumors of the Mag runflat ruining tires, but I think they are started by the same folks that say you can't run a spool on the street (yeah I do that too). I was concerned about that on mine, and started with really high pressure (12psi) the first time I went out and kept lowering it. I got down to about 4 or 5 and the tires did not like to be that low so I went back up. I never hit hard enough to notice, if I ever really hit at all. I have pulled apart all 4 rims and examined the inside of the tires, and can see no evidence of hitting the runflat, but I have to believe I have. No damage and I have never actually seen a tire die due to the runflats.

It sounds like you have an excellent plan in the works, got pics of the rig with the Rockwells under it?

Ed

Oh, I wish i had pictures. Daniel still has my axles. :D He was going to ship them at the beginning of this week until I started in with this wheel shit. Now he's doing these wheels for me, and then I'll be getting them. After that, it's into the garage to be married to the welder for awhile. I will have it ready to roll by memorial day if all goes well.

Front and Rear steering I assume? Regardless, good luck on being ready by Memorial Day. You should have a sweet welders tan by then! ;)

I have someone sort of interested in buying my Jeep. I hope it actually does sell. If so, I may be picking up a used sprint car frame and tossing a couple of Rockwells under it.

I just love those beefy parts.

Ed

BTW Wayne Hanson makes (and cheap too) new center sections you can weld in to get about a 4- 4.5" backspacing on the 8 bolt military wheels.

front/rear steering for sure comawn! I was thinking of just buying the inserts from daniel, and welding them in myself after playing around with the backspacing. That way it would be nobody's fault but my own if it isn't quite right. I'll have to ask him about that.

Yeah, who needs a tanning bed? I got a garage and a welder.

Great info on the hummer wheels, I have a set here but I am missing the inserts. Where can I get the inserts? aluminum, magnesiem, or the carbon fiber????
Has any on seen or do u have the trail ready 16.5 dead lock wheel?????
no one in my area has them yet? I was thinking about buying a set of them!!!!
thanks

here's a link to a page i made about my hummer wheels and beadlocks/runflats, lots of good pictures
http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton/hummerwheels.html

fly when i bought mine, one was the 12 bolt wheel with a bias ply tire and the magnesuim beadlock.......

Swwet page 3/4tonyj

Thanks for the time and effort

I wanna go this route and this thread helped clear some questions that I had.. thanks.:beer: rk

Thought I would add some info to the thread.

I have been working on my RC60 and clearancing my Hummer Rims. As with the Chevy Dana 60, you have to modify the stock steering arm to make the rims fit, and you cannot run the stock tierod. I only had to grind about 1/4" out of the front outter part of the arm to make the rim fit. They did clear the stock Ford dual piston calipers which amazed me.

HTH

I have a friend who picked up one of the rubber beadlock inserts from daniel, and is going to try it on his 8 bolt rim. The 8 bolts were designed for the magnesium runflats, but he's hoping that the rubber one will work on the rim too. When he finds out I'll let y'al know, hopefully it'll help clear up some of the confusion on these...

I'm in the Marines, and I work with the wheels all the time. The only time I have heard of the runflat ruining the tire is when it is actually used as a run flat. If you use it as a bead lock and keep some pressure in it, the tire will be fine.. We run HMMWV's with the bias tires at 3 lbs to make a nice and cushy ride. If you don't it rides like it has no suspension at all.

Originally posted by cruiserrg
Thought I would add some info to the thread.

I have been working on my RC60 and clearancing my Hummer Rims. As with the Chevy Dana 60, you have to modify the stock steering arm to make the rims fit, and you cannot run the stock tierod. I only had to grind about 1/4" out of the front outter part of the arm to make the rim fit. They did clear the stock Ford dual piston calipers which amazed me.

HTH

Any pics of your hummer rims mounted on your RC60?

Originally posted by mike
BTW Wayne Hanson makes (and cheap too) new center sections you can weld in to get about a 4- 4.5" backspacing on the 8 bolt military wheels.
Does Wayne Hanson do this for anybody or just friends, and if he does do the ctr.section backspacing mod. for anybody can you tell me how to get in touch with him.

Originally posted by Aceguy
oh, you're the freakin man. :cool: Great info. BTW, who said anything about radials?? :D
I asked about radials because I was told between the 8 bolt and 12 bolt rims and the different run flats one was for radials only and one was for non-radials. thats all.

Originally posted by tonto

Does Wayne Hanson do this for anybody or just friends, and if he does do the ctr.section backspacing mod. for anybody can you tell me how to get in touch with him.

Hanson Enterprise (831) 757-9779


Call him :)

3/4T YJ, where did you get the steel wheel spacers? I am looking for a set of 3/4" or 1" steel spacers for my rear '89 Grand Wagoneer D44 (6 on 5.5 bolt pattern) in my XJ. I would rather get steel that aluminum. Thanks, Jeff

Originally posted by Emmettology 101


Any pics of your hummer rims mounted on your RC60?

Not currently, I will work on it though. Just don't have a digital camera yet so it will take a bit to develop and scan.

RockTaxi or others who run them.....

With the 8 bolt wheels, are you able to drive on the street ok? I am not saying like a daily driver or anything, mainly to and from the trails. And when you air up, how many PSI are you filling to?

Actually, they drive normally for me. I have the tires at about 10 psi all the time, and it handles great up to about 70. Then the non-overdrive tranny and 6.17's make the motor scream too loud and I slow back down to about 50. I still should have the dang things balanced though.

Ed

One small problem with running a that deep of backspacing is the affect on the srub radius in tight turns. If you drive much on roads with alot of curves, an increase in tire wear should be expected. When I put mine into corners at moderate speed the outside tire makes noise.

Originally posted by Rock Taxi
Actually, they drive normally for me. I have the tires at about 10 psi all the time, and it handles great up to about 70
Ed


So is 10 psi about all they can take? I wouldn't want them rock-hard, but would they work say mid 20's psi?

Naw, the rims state 30 psi as the max, and I have had them that high (although that is way too high for a good contact patch).

Ed

I got another question for those of you with Hummer rims on already......Are any of you running leaf springs? If so, with as much back-spacing as the rims have, do your tires hit the leafs when while turning or is it not a problem?
thanks again.

well guys i run my 38.5 tsl at 30 psi ...and they wear perfectly at last alot longer i melted down so many sets at a lower psi.my jeep is adaily driver so i like high psi when i go wheeling i drop them down of course...so my question is do i want the 12 bolt ones?who has them with the inserts which ones do i want ,mags or rubber and do i have to grind down calipers on a ford 60 with high steer arms?this is a great post t
thanks:beer: