Figure ya'll will know this or at least be able to help out really well: does anyone know where to get or find flat tops that are i guess 3/4 ton aka still 5 on 5.5. I dont want to have to resort to getting all chevy 6 lug parts on the D44 HP because I will then need to change the 9" to 6 lug also. Anyone help me out? I preciate it a lot, sorta in a rush to get all the parts so. - Jared

Have you read through these pages yet? http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html
They're very helpful in IDing the right parts. Hope it helps some.

Figure ya'll will know this or at least be able to help out really well: does anyone know where to get or find flat tops that are i guess 3/4 ton aka still 5 on 5.5. I dont want to have to resort to getting all chevy 6 lug parts on the D44 HP because I will then need to change the 9" to 6 lug also. Anyone help me out? I preciate it a lot, sorta in a rush to get all the parts so. - Jared
I don't recommend running a Ford knuckle if you want a flat top and 5 on 5.5"

I don't recommend running a Ford knuckle if you want a flat top and 5 on 5.5"

why do you say that?

why do you say that?
F250 knuckle will not fit the 1/2 ton caliper.
SuperCab knuckle passenger side is not a true flat top.
1/2 ton regular should not be used for a flat top.
That's about it for Ford Straight axle Dana 44 ball joint knuckles.....

Edit: -> Did you follow my sig and read?

yes I have read that stuff on your page and it is great. If i use a 3/4 ton ford D44 knuckle, can I not buy 3/4 Chevy or Ford Calipers and be good to go?

yes I have read that stuff on your page and it is great. If i use a 3/4 ton ford D44 knuckle, can I not buy 3/4 Chevy or Ford Calipers and be good to go?
Keep the Knuckles, Spindels and type of brakes together.

Yes, you can use the 3/4 ton Ford knuckle with the 3/4 ton Ford caliper, but forget about 5 on 5.5".

The Chevy knuckle is an easier swap, but you need the correct spindles to run 5 on 5.5"

oh ok. i just dont understand how the 6 lug chevy knuckle works when i am wanting to go 5 on 5.5? what do you do about the lug holes in the knuckle itself? sorry to be so confused...

oh ok. i just dont understand how the 6 lug chevy knuckle works when i am wanting to go 5 on 5.5? what do you do about the lug holes in the knuckle itself? sorry to be so confused...
:shaking:
Go re-do your homework, and this time read it all.

i am currently doing this to my 44 let me offer some insite.

Chevy flat tops
chevy small bearing spindles
1/2 ton ford rotor and hub assembly (5x5.5)

i have a jeep wagoneer axle and a rear 9" so i needed to switch one and i did alot of research including Mr. N's website along with some other research on full size jeep forums. everyone i talked to said this was the way to go.

ohh ok. Well a guy offered me some flat tops from a 75 K10 D44. Would this be what I want to go with in that case? And how hard would it be to find the spindles? Thanks

ohh ok. Well a guy offered me some flat tops from a 75 K10 D44. Would this be what I want to go with in that case? And how hard would it be to find the spindles? Thanks
Not to piss you off, as this is a safty issue.

If you do not know by now, I don't recommend to do this swap. Get some else to do it for you. Pay a shop or something.

Ebay, this site in the classifieds or junkyards are good placed to source parts.

i'll answer your question first and be a prick later. Because the wheel bearings are the same on Ford or Chevy D44s, you can put a 5x5.5 lug pattern on the Chevy spindle. I think you think the knucke bolts are actually the lug bolts - this is not the case. Those hold the spindle and caliper brackets on. The rotor goes onto the spindle and as i said above and becuase the same bearings are used, it is that simple to change lug patterns - so you get a flat top knuckle and whatever bolt pattern you want.

Now to follow the PirateBB suit and tell you to search and read. Youll feel better knowing your own course of action and how to accomplish it (ie: finding parts and knowing what parts you need). there was a link posted in a previous post that tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about flat tops, changing bolt patterns, High Pinion Dana 44s and i probably more that im forgetting. Its got charts and part #s....i think i read over those charts a dozen times to get everything down and understand not only how to do it but why it works.

ok that helps a lot- it was the knuckle bolts that were confusing me, but no one ever mentioned much about it so. - thanks

Ok I have looked over your site once again and looked at the axle downstairs. So if I decide to go Chevy parts I would need Dana 44 flat top knuckles, spindle, caliper mount plate and outer axle shaft. ( by outer axle shaft do you mean the inner knuckle?) But if I go with a 3/4 ton 8 lug ford flat top I can use that without having to swap any parts? Also, what would be the cheapest way to go for those who have done it?

bu outer axle shaft he means stub shafts. there are 4 shafts that go in any axle (front axle) the inners, long and short side, and the stub/outer shafts - they connect to the inners via ujoints.

if you want to keep 5x5.5 pattern to match the 9" rear get all the chevy parts (spindle, knuckles, stub/outer shafts, caliper mounting brackets) then put on the ford hub and rotor to get 5x5.5.

if you go with the 3/4 ton (which only means 8 lug and bigger brakes) you can use all ford parts and i beleive there are 3/4 ton Ford flat tops that you can use (from an F250). but then your 9" out back wont share the same lug pattern.

ohh ok, so if i used the ford 3/4 flat tops then i would have to go 8 lug. is that correct? thanks a lot.

i'll answer your question first and be a prick later.
Through searching Pirate and then checking my site he has all the info he needs.
Some People just should not be making modifications to there 4x4, it that simple. If MudOnTheTireS10 can't do basic research, I'll tell him what I think. I can't see him being happy with his results, as he doesn't know what questions to ask.

Imply I'm a prick, guess I'd like to tell him the truth rather than baby step him thought the process. Then when it doesn' work he only has you to blame.

Hah, i dont care what attitude you use with me. I could care less lol. As long as I find out a few things I need to know than you can laugh and make faces at me for all i care. I know some people on here take offense to people acting like asses, but that would be a personal problem and I just dont have enough care in my body to fool with that. So prick away! (Just answer a few of my questions also if you have the time lol)

listen Mr. N - i was in no way implying that you were a prick - you gave him good advice in that if he doesnt understand what he is getting into he shouldnt be attemtping it.

that was more of a joke considering most people will only tell you to search and wont actually help a newbie out - although they are the new wheeling generation. Sometimes asking a question helps answer the question when reading doesnt quite solve the confusion.

he does need to do massive ammounts of research if this is something serious to him and he wants to understand the options in front of him.

i just find people are more willing to tell someone to search rather than give a few answers and lead someone down the right path. Otherwise he will build something unsafe or not do it at all.

I know a decent bit about all that I am doing, but I am working with several guys who have done this already but just arent sure about what I need to do as far as my axles and flat tops go. So I am simply trying to figure out what specific parts to go with so that I can get them on the axle and get the swap rolling, thats all. Thanks FrontCC for telling me to search...and answering my questions also. I know I can search on here all day long to gather parts and pieces of information, but I have better things to do- so the post is here for those guys who are kind enough to simply answer my specific question so i am not wasting my time. Also, you can trust everyone, so thats why I am asking several people about this, in order to get the right info and not just 1 guys "i heard about it" info.

I'm getting a little confused with all the part numbers on Mr. N's charts. I've got a 73 K5 Blazer scoped out that has flat top knuckles BUT the numbers cast into the area above the lower ball joints are not consistent with the charts. Are these numbers NOT the part numbers? Visually, they appear to be the correct FTKs, but that number is making me 2nd guess everything else. Anybody know? Maybe I've overlooked something in all this mess.
Thanks in advance!

I'm getting a little confused with all the part numbers on Mr. N's charts. I've got a 73 K5 Blazer scoped out that has flat top knuckles BUT the numbers cast into the area above the lower ball joints are not consistent with the charts. Are these numbers NOT the part numbers? Visually, they appear to be the correct FTKs, but that number is making me 2nd guess everything else. Anybody know? Maybe I've overlooked something in all this mess.
Thanks in advance!
If it'a from a Disk axle, it should work. Drum, no luck.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images/Dana44flatops/Dana44Flatops_Disk_vs_Drum.jpg

I'm getting a little confused with all the part numbers on Mr. N's charts. I've got a 73 K5 Blazer scoped out that has flat top knuckles BUT the numbers cast into the area above the lower ball joints are not consistent with the charts. Are these numbers NOT the part numbers? Visually, they appear to be the correct FTKs, but that number is making me 2nd guess everything else. Anybody know? Maybe I've overlooked something in all this mess.
Thanks in advance!

Depending on which chart you are referring to, likely not. The casting number on the chebbie knuckle, at least for my disc brake knuckles, was C36519 and 520 with an L and R. I really paid no attention otherwise. The pic Mr. N has identifying disc vs. drum cheb flat tops is very important however, don't be misled, disc. brake cheb flat tops are easy to spot after staring at the pic for awhile.

Thanks Mr.N and TheJuice. They are definitely disk brake knuckles (got them complete) and look identical to Mr. N's pic. The casting numbers they have are also the C36519 R and C36520 L, which is what was throwing me off. Guess they're good to go. :)
Thanks, I appreciate the clarification.

Thanks Mr.N and TheJuice. They are definitely disk brake knuckles (got them complete) and look identical to Mr. N's pic. The casting numbers they have are also the C36519 R and C36520 L, which is what was throwing me off. Guess they're good to go. :)
Thanks, I appreciate the clarification.

Yep, go visit partsmike.com for some reasonably priced quality high steer arms. Just got my stuff back, including a mill/drill/tap on the passenger knuckle. These are good knuckles though :)