'97 DI, 117k miles, was a Michigan vehicle, lots of corrosion...

I did SOME(wait, let's be realistic here: I searched for a week through google and rover forums, so it's really MANY) searches, with no luck. Only thing I found in my search was a guy talking about a FJ axle rebuild he did, and said that the more swearing and cussing he did at the hub/disc most likely helped it to separate, or something to that effect. I'm gathering that I need to whack it good with something. Suggestions? Front driver side.

Oh. Flame suit on. I did post for help on another forum but they didn't respond recently there. I also have not registered at Dweb, and don't plan to. Not a fan.

Hmm. I may as well ask another question while I'm here. Needle bearings between outer halfshaft and stub axle ever go bad or cause problems? Wheel bearings look fine to me, so I guess I'm looking at a CV replacement? Clicking when turning, only when at or near full lock.

Thanks,

Jeff

I put mine in a vice and hammered on it. But, i'm sure you've already tried that.

ironically, if you had searched dweb,you would have found the answer you wanted. bolt the hub to one of the wheels, throw the sucka on the floor, stand on it, and pry on the disc.

You did take the bolts off, didn't you?

and yes, the spindle bearings do go bad.

Ahhh, I thought of bolting it to the tire...I'm gonna do that now. Whacking with hammer was tried.

I guess I could register there and not post, just to do some searches. heh Quite ironic, I agree.

Would the spindle bearings cause it to click like the wheel bearing or the CV do when going bad, only when turning? This is my first rover apart like this. How much play should there be in the cv? Seems the inner halfshaft flops around a bit.

Thanks again.

OK, hows about a solution that will separate the components without damage?

Go to your hardware store, buy a coupla coupling nuts (1/2" UNC works REAL well) and a coupla short bolts to fit the coupling nut. Tighten the nuts fully into both ends of the coupling nut, place between the pieces to separate, loosen the bolts such that they press against the inner surfaces of the hub and rotor and be careful the parts that come free don't fall on your foot.

Peace,
PT

Damage? Why remove the rotor, if you're not going to replace it anyway?

Damage? Why remove the rotor, if you're not going to replace it anyway?

Because it is usually the hub that gets damaged from the hammer method. I've seen it so bad that the hub seal wouldn't seal, requiring replacement of the hub. This was from a Midas job (we were in England...).

Hold the hub in one hand and a 5lbs sledge in the other and wack the shit out of the disc. Rotate as you go. It will come off.

Paul, as usual you are the god of Rovers :flipoff2:

The next time I have a problem I will demand that you drive to my house, trailer my Disco back to FW and deliver it fixed, later the same day. :D

Hold the hub in one hand and a 5lbs sledge in the other and wack the shit out of the disc. Rotate as you go. It will come off.
hard ass If i did that i would hit my finger and the rotor would fall on my foot. If you're hitting the hub instead of the axle when trying to get the rotor off of the hub then you got more serious issues then not being able to get the rotor off.

"i would hit my finger and the rotor would fall on my foot."

Your lack of coordination is not my problem.

:flipoff2:

Good advice, and thanks PT. I think I was given the wrong bearing kit, something from an older rangie or something...the drive member gasket had holes for six bolts, the d1 drive member doesn't have six bolts as you're all well aware. Bearings are the same, but the inner hub seal isn't, so renewal aborted, hub not removed from disc...(not sure if it is even necessary if not replacing the rotor?), vehicle put back together, knowledge gained. CV is the culprit apparently.

I will be doing a lot of research on CV's now... :eek:

Sounds like you were given Series drive flange gaskets.

If you're not replacing the rotor, there is no reason to separate the hub from rotor.

Good luck on the CVs, they're not really all that bad to replace, just make sure you keep the oil full. And don't use that one-shot shit.