...so I'm an idiot (obviously); I just now realized what may have been the big cooling issue last summer. The radiator was clogged up which precipitated all the festivities from last summer, but the truck still runs a little warm.

My crankshaft pulley is a smaller diameter than stock :shaking: I've got the stock pulley, but I chose to use the smaller one because it has a partial degree ring for setting ignition timing. I'm certain this pulley came off a TR7 (or 8?) as it was included with a bunch of Triumph EFI parts when I bought the rig a few years ago. Stoopid me :rolleyes:

So...with the small crank pulley, the water pump turns slower than normal, and so does the fan. And, since I'm running the 34" Swampers, crusing RPM is also slower; so, the cooling system is less effective and still has to cool an engine that is seeing a higher load at lower RPM.

Next task is installing the stock crank pulley and get new belts; eventually replace the fan with 1 or 2 electric pullers.

Maybe later in the summer I'll get around to replacing the cam and timing set...fun fun fun.

My crankshaft pulley is a smaller diameter than stock :shaking:

Doh!!! Are you sure you don't own a bunch of Series Land Rovers? You sure sound like the Series owners I know!!!

No Series Rovers...























...yet :D

Why not use an electric waterpump motor and electric fan and just not even worry about it?

Pete

Why not use an electric waterpump motor and electric fan and just not even worry about it?

Pete

Electric fan is already in the plans...but I don't know of an electric water pump drive that is suitable for daily and/or long-distance driving...all I've seen are either for drag race use or limited street use.

Electric fan is already in the plans...but I don't know of an electric water pump drive that is suitable for daily and/or long-distance driving...all I've seen are either for drag race use or limited street use.

Have to admit I am not to sure. I didn't know they were limited use.
I thought these were general all purpose.
http://store.summitracing.com/largeimage.asp?part=PRO-66235B

I guess I'm wrong...there seems to be some electric water pumps suitable for street use.

Check this out:

http://www.meziere.com/index.php?pgName=wp125

I don't think the Rover and Buick 215 pumps share the same pattern, but maybe I can find a Buick front cover :D

I noticed those electric pumps in a recent catalog and it got me thinking about it a bit...anyone have a clear understanding of how they work? Do they vary speed or stay constant? You obviously must have to add an electric fan.
For those that have an A/C compressor, I wonder if there might be some interferance(fittament issues) for the belts.

also, isn't the bolt pattern a little different on the pulley on the rover water pump...I seem to remember PT looking for a cheap bastard fan replacement and not finding much....but maybe that wasn't a bolt pattern issue.

also, isn't the bolt pattern a little different on the pulley on the rover water pump...I seem to remember PT looking for a cheap bastard fan replacement and not finding much....but maybe that wasn't a bolt pattern issue.

Bolt pattern may still be an issue, but not because of the fan bolt pattern...remember, the viscous clutch mounts on the threaded nose of the water pump and the fan mounts to that. The bolt-pattern we'd be dealing with is on the drive flange of the water pump.

That's right.

I've just bought a Davies Craig electric water pump from these guys:
www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/Catalogue/fans_files/image002.jpg

Can't tell you how good it is 'cos the truck's in bits :crybaby2: but I have read the manual (against my religion though that is :D). Talking to Merlin they said they've sold loads of them to racers and not had any returned so can't be that bad. They also said they tried one with a bucket of water and were "suprised" how much water it shifted (all over the workshop) :D

The DC ones are supposed to be good for 1000's of hours, so OK for a daily driver. My current water pump was a non-gen one which died in less than 5000 miles, so it was a no-brainer to splash a bit of cash on something that might actually work for a while and hadn't been tried (to my knowledge) on a LR.

They are driven from a controller (which is an extra £100) which varies the voltage to the pump from about 3v to the full 12v. When really cold it pulses on and off very slowly at about 3-5v or shuts down completely.

Aparrently you can run the thing straight to 12v and have it flat out all the time but I'm not sure that's the ideal thing really. I will be adding a switch on my dashboard to force it to go balls out for certain situations.

I'm hoping to control my EWP using the MegaSquirt ECU - after all, it knows engine RPM, temperature, load, and how hard you just mashed the loud pedal.

Us RV8 owners who don't need the Fast Idle solenoid output can hijack that and use the Ford idle solenoid PWM (Pulse Width Modulation - google it :flipoff2:) code to create the varied voltage for the pump.

It's very easy (if you know how) to add a bit of code to run the pump purely on a temperature basis, which will probably be my 1st version. From there, since the ECU knows the actual engine load I hope to modify it to respond to load as well as the slightly slower temperature sensor.