Radius arm/coil setup on a Scout II

[Brandonw]

I'm thinking about using coils on the front of my Scout. It has a fullwidth 10 bolt front end. I was thinking about doin a radius arm setup with a pan hard bar as well. Heres my plan so far, Have the bottom link come from the frame and attach to the lower part of the axle and have the upper link come off the top and tie back into the lower about half way. Gonna heims on the top of the links so it can be adjusted and probaly johnny joints or bushings on the axle end. You guys think that 1 3/4 .120 wall tube would hold up for the links, or should I get a thicker wall? Gonna get some coils off a 80's bronco. Well what do you guys think about my idea, good, bad, crappy, pros cons:question: Let me know what you think. I need other peoples opinions .

[jdjanda]

.120 :rolleyes:

Better look for some .250 or .375 IMHO Have you seen my .120 rock slides, did not hold up well to the weight of the Scout. If you had a street rig where the was little chance you'd ever support the weight of the rig across one of the links then I'd say yes .120. In the rocks where you may lay the link across a rock, or come down on one .120 aint going to cut it.

Joe

[Brandonw]

Originally posted by jdjanda
.120 :rolleyes:

Better look for some .250 or .375 IMHO Have you seen my .120 rock slides, did not hold up well to the weight of the Scout.
Joe

Do you think that 1 3/4 od will be fine or should I look for something different size. I know where I can get 1 1/2 .250 wall DOM tube for a decent price, but would that be too small od. Also should the tubing be DOM :question:

[Scout Dude]

Yep..get something a lot thicker than .120...

Also, see if 460Scout has pics of his...he basically transplanted an entire 78 or 79 F250 into his Scout...motor, tranny, t-case, axles/ & suspension. Very clean set up IMO.

[Old Scout]

Originally posted by Scout Dude

460Scout .

Is that slappyshorts???? Silly's buddy?

[jdjanda]

Originally posted by Brandonw


Do you think that 1 3/4 od will be fine or should I look for something different size. I know where I can get 1 1/2 .250 wall DOM tube for a decent price, but would that be too small od. Also should the tubing be DOM :question:

You don't need DOM, but if you can get the 1 1/2 .250 at a good price then go for it. Might as well build it beefy.

Joe

[Cliffy [JD]]

Check out rockstomper rods, I bet they'd work well for a link set-up

I have a set of NEW-AS-CAN-BE used '79 bronco 4" coils, I also have a set of used '87-ish 2" bronco coils (they were supposed to be '79's also but the counter jerk screwed up and I took em anyway). They're skyjacker softrides.

I'd sell the 4"set for $90.00. I paid $150 for the set. There's less than 100 miles on them. They make for a pretty comfy ride in my blazer. PM me if your interested.

[Brandonw]

Originally posted by jdjanda


You don't need DOM, but if you can get the 1 1/2 .250 at a good price then go for it. Might as well build it beefy.

Joe

What else would be cheaper? I found 2 in. od .250 wall for around $10 a foot, was thinking about that. But with the 1.5 in. I could use Avalnche tube adapters to make it easier in me.

Cliffhanger, any idea how much lift those coils would give me?

[Scout Dude]

Originally posted by Old Scout


Is that slappyshorts???? Silly's buddy?

Yeah..did he change his screen name again?...or is he still 460 Scout (Awn Dubs)?

[Scout Dude]

Originally posted by jdjanda


You don't need DOM, but if you can get the 1 1/2 .250 at a good price then go for it. Might as well build it beefy.

Joe

I think that he might need DOM...maybe not for the strength, but because it is even-wall thickness inside.

[muskyman]

what are we talking about here 10 ft of tube?

I'd buy a length of exactly what I wanted to build radius arms

they see huge loads when you hit bumps while braking

they also get the whole weight of the vehicle when you smack rocks on down hills.

theres a reason ford used forged arms they should be really beef

[Cliffy [JD]]

Originally posted by Brandonw

Cliffhanger, any idea how much lift those coils would give me?

Kinda depends on how you mount them, since you'd have to make your own spring "towers/buckets" (or whatever you call them), it could be anywhere from 2" to 6" On my blazer it gave me 5" of lift because I mounted the springs about 3" off of my axle, and 12" foreward of it, but I mounted the spring towers so that the top was above the top of the frame.

Whatever you go with, I would defintely use 2" taller springs in the front that in the back to compensate for the weight of the engine:smokin:

[tsm1mt]

Originally posted by muskyman
what are we talking about here 10 ft of tube?

I'd buy a length of exactly what I wanted to build radius arms

they see huge loads when you hit bumps while braking

they also get the whole weight of the vehicle when you smack rocks on down hills.

theres a reason ford used forged arms they should be really beef

A friend builds custom radius arms for Fords.. I think he uses 2" Sch40 black pipe, then plates the two tubes together.

My friend Blair only folded one of the radius arms once.. tried to clear the triples, and smacked the top of the last one..

He also wiped out a stock radius arm first.. ;-)

[muskyman]

sounds like beefy triangulated piece

diameter is more important then wall thickness

I'd still run the numbers and buy what I want then make due.


i'v thought many times of pitching my front suspension

but I really believe that a real flexy ass end and less flexy front end works pretty well

my truck never dangles a front wheel so much that it gets under and behind rocks/obstruction.

thats when you start to break shit

just lock the arbs and let the flexy rear push you over

IMHO

[Brandonw]

Originally posted by Cliffhanger


Kinda depends on how you mount them, since you'd have to make your own spring "towers/buckets" (or whatever you call them), it could be anywhere from 2" to 6" On my blazer it gave me 5" of lift because I mounted the springs about 3" off of my axle, and 12" foreward of it, but I mounted the spring towers so that the top was above the top of the frame.

Whatever you go with, I would defintely use 2" taller springs in the front that in the back to compensate for the weight of the engine:smokin:

Got any pictures of how you mounted the coils? I wana get some ideas on what to do on the Scout. Was thinking about mounting them between the frame and axle so they dont interfere with my shocks andso I dont have to modify my shock hoop.:smokin:

[ScoutsHonor]

For about the past 3 months, and still currently, I've been toying with going coils in the front of the Rubber Ducky. The more and more I think about it, look at pictures, look at my Scout as it sits in the shop awaiting the $$$ to finish it... with the 1/4 elliptic in the back... it flexes like HELL... I mean its amazing... even with 44" Boggers. My front is sprungover with 4" lift springs... and it clears the 44s as well. I'm thinking about changing my frontend just a little bit, making it a little bit beefier and maybe some better shackles... and just leaving it leaf sprung. If it flexes just a little bit before it hits the stops, the rear end is still gonna be able to push it up and over anything.... between that... and the fact that its kept KISS simple in the front... thats 1 less thing to break.... and with my tires/motor/axle combo... its pretty easy to tear most stuff up... (my right foot doesn't help any)

If I woulda been smart about the whole thing... I woulda made up a hybrid leaf pack for the front and back.. and kept the whole thing leaf sprung... much like Abba did... just less stuff to break.

[Cliffy [JD]]

Originally posted by Brandonw


Got any pictures of how you mounted the coils? I wana get some ideas on what to do on the Scout. :smokin:

This is the only pic I have handy right now, and it only shows how I mounted the top of the coil. I'll keep looking.