How much gap should there be between the lower knuckle and the lower arm of the "C". I can see the lower pin in mine.

I've just torn down the knuckles on my D60. This is my first D60 and I've never had to deal with kingpins before. No big deal so for the most part. However, I found that the top "cone" was about 3/16" or so off the "C". In other words, it was not screwed in all the way, and it was "finger tight"!!! Also, the seal had slid under the edge causing all manner of crud to build up. Upper seal is messy but still looks good (guy rebuilt it not long before I got it) so I cleaned it up for reuse. When I tried to tighten the "cone", I found out it had some buggered threads at the bottom of the threaded portion of the upper arm of the "C", so I straightened them out. Figure that's probably why it wasn’t run down all the way and the guy was just too lazy to fool with it. I cleaned up the mess, and screwed the cone all the way down using a home made tool built from a 7/8" nut. After putting it all back together, I noticed that the locating pin (or whatever it is called) on the bottom of the knuckle is visible about 1/8" between the knuckle and the "C". Now, this is my first D60 and I don't know anything about them but, this just does not seem right. Is that "cone" supposed to be adjusted or something to take up the space? That doesn't seem right either since the seal won't stay in place if the cone is not run down. Otherwise, is something damaged/worn out? What gives? The upper king pin bushing looks good and there is really no sign of wear that I can see. I hope I'm just being paranoid...

upper kingpin needs to be torqued to 500 to 600 ft.lbs.

Originally posted by Aggro
upper kingpin needs to be torqued to 500 to 600 ft.lbs.
Wow! :eek: I've probably got about 150-200 tops on it (pushed a 2.5' breaker bar till I was afraid I was going to break my home made 7/8 adapter). I don't think my home made tool is gonna stand for 500 plus. I guess I'll pick up a monster 7/8 hex head (allen) socket sometime when I'm out and pull it down again later to retorque. I'll have to borrow or rent a torque wrench that even goes that high. Thanks for the info, I've really got to find a book with specs on the GM D60...

Anyway, what about the gap at the bottom of the knuckle between it and the axle housing? Is that ok?

go to
www.gohumvee.com
he has a complete 60 manual on line
it takes forever to print out, but totally worth it
that guys is great
while you're at it you should vote for him in TTC

Excellent! Thank you. I knew I had seen one somewhere but couldn't remember where. I've got some reading to do. :)

Originally posted by fcfred
go to
www.gohumvee.com
he has a complete 60 manual on line
it takes forever to print out, but totally worth it
that guys is great
while you're at it you should vote for him in TTC

Yep hes got/had my vote........killer FJ40 on steroids..:eek: :eek: :beer:

Ug, Dana 60 GOOD :p

I know this is an old thread but it's hitting right at home with me now. So where do you get a 7/8s allen or whatever to remove the kingpin?:beer:

Mine were loose already and I just made one out of a bolt. Ran a nut down on it leaving a gap between it and the head. Then welded the gap solid. Of course, I don't have anything that will come close to setting that torque, and my rig is off-road only, so I just tightened the shit out of it and called it good. No problems so far...