Anyone done this? I'd like to pull the gears from my narrow trak and install them into a recently acquired widetrac. No chipped teeth or anything, and I bought an installation kit so I can put new bearings in it and have all the shims. Any pointers? I've read that the pattern isn't as crucial when installing used gears as it is when installing new gears.

Thanks,
Chris

Used gears are fine if they're in good shape. Don't know where you heard that the pattern isn't as crucial, but it's wrong. Pattern is everything, for new and used gears, but sometimes it's harder to get a good pattern with used gears...

Dave

ive heard that you should concentrate on teh pattern on the COAST side of the gears, instead of the drive side, since the drive side likely has wear.

ive been half assed doing the same thing in my amc20, used 4.56 gears, ive set them up , then taken the m back down to change carriers, plus I wasnt happy with the [pattern.
whenever Im bored I go out there, and adjust them some, eventually Ill finish.

Well tomorrow I am borrowing a dial indicator with a magnetic base. I have a install kit from WCD and its manual, but I also downloaded the manual from Randy's R&P for comparison. I hope to check things out over the weekend.

Unfortunately I did not take any measurements from the orig AMC20 I removed them from before I removed them (dumbass!!):rolleyes: :rolleyes: I think the booklets tell you what to look for when installing used R&P. What's more important or do they share importance, backlash or pattern, when installing used R&P's?

I hope it works cause I don't have the extra $200 for new R&P right now.

What do you guys do about the crush sleeve. I've heard it takes major FT-LB to crush that thing, and that if you aren't carefull you can go to far and fubar it all up. How do you 'not go to far' when using a kickass IR impact wrench???

:smokin:

-Chris

Only use the impact wrench to snug up the pinion nut, switch to a breaker bar for the rest. I used a breaker bar on the pinion nut and an 18" pipe wrench on the pinion yoke, then added 10' cheater pipes to each. Once the pinion has all the slack taken out of it, only tighten the pinion about 1/8th of a turn at a time, then check your pinion bearing preload... You don't want to over-crush the crush sleeve...

Your pattern is the most important, but backlash isn't far behind it. With backlash, you at least have some wiggle room (.006" to .012" or so usually)...

Take your time, good luck...

Dave

10 foot cheater pipe? Are you sure? The axle is out of the vehicle, how the heck can I hold the axle still ANd use a 10 foot cheater pipe? I'm doing this by myself!

Chris

They might be closer to about 6 feet long... I had both cheater pipes pointing up so that they were within arm's reach of each other. The one on the pinion will rotate freely so you can put it wherever you like, then set up the one on the pinion nut close enough to get ahold of it. Since you have so much leverage, it's very easy to hold one still and pull the other to you or push it away from you, whichever you prefer...

Dave