Hey everyone, I just finished upgrading the axles/housing/brakes/etc in my Black Rangie to newer Disco 24 spline kit this weekend. What a PITA! Actually it wasn't that bad, the only real problem was with the front brakes and unfortunately I ended up keeping the dual-funky calipers [only until I find some other ones that work.] Any how, we took the truck out for a good long run today at the beach and it was getting VERY VERY hot. The gauge never gets past .75 but it just seems way tooo hot as it will burn your hands if you set them on the hood after a long drive. Yeah, speaking from personal experience.

- At first I thought it might be a faulty gauge or thermostat but after checking the gauge it proved to be ok. The thermostat under a heat temp gun wasn't showing anything too too off but we replaced it for good measure.

- Currently the truck does not have a shroud or the stock Rover fan. Some time ago the motor mounts broke and the old fan went through the shroud. In a bind I just replaced it with a metal one that fit the hole pattern to get me by and like most trail repairs it stayed. So, I am thinking this could be a culprit but how much does shroud cool things down?

- I have gone through and checked the cooling system and hit all the "hot" spots with a digital thermal gun at just warmed up, normal running and hard running and it all shows 2-4 degree + or - what it should be so I am content with that.

Originally with the old 10 spline crap the CV's were blown and we thought as a result of the extra strain it might be putting on things it was causing the heat problem. But now with all new running gear, ZF and a LT-230 the truck is still running very hot. Here's where it gets sticky, it might be a coincidence that there is still something binding in the LT-230 we just installed...

If your cruising above 35mph and you let off the gas there is a loud grinding/whining coming from sounds to be like the front output on the LT. If you overfill the box the noise gets quieter but is still there. I am thinking [correct me] that it's possible the front output bearing is shot on the LT-230. Any takers? If and when your slowing down and you keep on the throttle lightly [keeping a load on] the noise almost disappears.

Anyone have any suggestion? My next plan is to put it up on a lift and run it too pin point the noise but my only concern is that fixing that won’t fix the over-heating problem… :shaking:

, Mr. Red Dildo :flipoff2:

"Currently the truck does not have a shroud or the stock Rover fan. Some time ago the motor mounts broke and the old fan went through the shroud. In a bind I just replaced it with a metal one that fit the hole pattern to get me by and like most trail repairs it stayed. So, I am thinking this could be a culprit but how much does shroud cool things down?"

This would do it.

No shroud=overheat

Vehicle temp gauge says its not overheating and you confirmed this with a IR temp probe. Sounds to me like its not overheating. Not really sure what the question is.

As far as the LT230, was it used, rebuilt, or new?

That's what's weird Pete, we can't find anything to pinpoint that's overly hot but rather whole truck get's extremely hot. I know, at first I thought it was just too many Margueritas out of the back of the Rover today at the beach but like I said....

Leave it to me...as for the LT-230 is was a dealer-pull from a 02 Disco [has CDL.]

Did you put the IR Temp onto the LT-230? Compare different areas of the case.

Also check the entire surface of the radiator for cold spots.

Pete

Hey Pete, I would have buy my buddy took of with it! He is going to come by this week. I will post the results.

Right now I am trying to decide if I should get a stock shroud and put the stock fan back in or just go the Flexi-lite route.

Thanks, Jason

Right now I am trying to decide if I should get a stock shroud and put the stock fan back in or just go the Flexi-lite route.


Jason,
if you go the aftermarket route, take a look at this:
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D298&N=4294924500+4294839058+4294838842+400226+42948916 81&autoview=sku

Not sure the size of the radiator on the Rangy but this thing is 27.5x17.5 and pushes 4600 cfm.
I have mine set up as a pusher and it works great.

Hey Pete, my Flexalite 210's just arrived today! I hope to get them install this weekend. I will post pics when I am finished.

Thanks for the info though.

Maybe radiator flow? Poor fuel management causing cats to heat up? Gunk in front of the radiator reducing flow?

FWIW-I find EVERY Range Rover (Classic) to seem very warm under the hood. As for the LT-230, how many miles were on the donor? How could one put enough miles on a fairly bulletproof (in most non-pirate applications) to wear out the bearing?

Keep looking and report back your findings and we'll pick on you some more :flipoff2:

Paul,

Not sure on the flow exactly, what would be the CB way to test it? I have flushed the system and refilled according. The hoses feel good and tight when warm...other than that what can I check?

As for fuel management, is that some kind of joke? I thought all Land Rovers had poor fuel management. :flipoff2:

No gunk in the radiator, this rig has never really been off road. Also, the radiator was put in about 5k miles ago as a recore.

As for the noise, it didn't prove to be the t-box. :) Never let the number of Corona's exceed the amount of teeth on the ring gear when assembling a diff. :grinpimp: My buddy forgot to put the shim spacer in front of the pinion bearing when converting the diff from Roto-flex. It's a long story but I swapped the entire axle housings under it from a late model Disco and had to convert from the roto-junk to standard flange.

Needless to say the NDA bearings for the tbox will be arriving today! :ARGH: I still think the nuts holding the output flanges might be too tight, I need to check the repair manual and put a torque wrench on them.

What took you so long? :flipoff2:

Paul,

Not sure on the flow exactly, what would be the CB way to test it?
What took you so long? :flipoff2:

Fill the radiator with water while holding a hand over the outlet... Remove hand and use super-technical, incredibly exact, precise and accurate method of observing the plume to determine the flow rate :D . Believe it or not, my old radiator shop used this method! If it doesn't shoot out a few feet, it is clogged.

As for my tardiness, I just got back from eight days in the woods at Schramsylvania. The trails in the UP we're again, incredible. I got stuck (I no longer even pay attention to comments about the lack of merit of Mile-Marker winches! Mine recovered two vehicles with no problems) AND, I finally broke something wheeling! A rear shock-looks like Bilstein is gonna warranty it and replace it for me.

PT