Yes I did a search. No the stock one didn't work :D

CJ2A running 44's F+R with 1/2 ton 2 bolt GM style calipers all around. 79 CJ style PB booster and Master. Pedal is extremely low after lots of bleeding. Rig does stop but pedal goes to floor.

What is a good choice of MC for the application? Feels like I need to move more fuild here...

Any first hand input appreciated.

Rick
77 CJ7 - Modified
45 CJ2A - Modified

68 corvette MC. 1 1/8" bore 4 wheel disc stock MC is the same for power/manual brake setups. Just uses a different rod. And bolts up to CJ brackets.

Both Piazza and I are runnin em Rick ;)

hey rick ,well for starters pull out the relief valve in your master now it should be in line with one of the lines usually the rear ita spring youll see it and if that doesnt work get a corvette m/c older style they are like 12$ at the parts store.i sent you some cash my man....

Thanks guys.

Mike, are you and Piazza running PB boosters in the CJ's?

TJ7, what more can you tell me about the relief valve? Is it a residual pressure valve? I thought that would be a good thing to keep slight pressure on the pistons (prevent bleedback).

I think it is in the prop valve, not the master...

Got your PM, I'll skid the parts up :smokin:

Rick

Dude,
I'm running the Chev 1/2 Ton discs front/rear on my YJ and have had nothing but problems even when using the Vette master w/power booster. The biggest problem seems to be related to the pedal ratio. You need to make sure that it is about 6:1 for manual & 4:1 for power. The pedal ratio is determined by measuring the distance from the pedal pivot point to the pedal itself and then dividing that number by the distance from the pedal pivot point to where the brake rod attaches to the pedal arm. I've also had god luck with the Willwood adjustable proportioning valve plumbed into the rear line. For the 1/2 Ton calipers it would still be a good idea to find an MC with at least a 1.25 inch bore.

Thanks. I might get hosed on that throw ratio. This Jeep has NO bracket behind the booster. The rod pushes directly thru from pedal to the booster... (Booster is bolted straight to firewall). I guess I could move the rod down on the pedal if worse comes to worse...

I have the same calipers on my CJ7. I messed with everything and ended up with a Caddy MC+ Prop valve, 82-86 booster, redrilled bracket (tri county style) and a homebrew adjustable rod. That combo finally gave good pedal feel that doesn't go away. Ever.

Tough to duplicate on the 2A and trying to work with as much of what is there as possible.

I don't understand why disk needs more volume anyway. They sit tight against the rotors all the time. The system is fully charged with fluid. A small amount of MC throw should be all that is needed! Not the case...

Any recomendation on a big bore MC?

Great thread. Keep the info coming :D

Rick

Mike, are you and Piazza running PB boosters in the CJ's?



Nope, Im not and have no real interest to run a booster.

You need to make sure that it is about 6:1 for manual & 4:1 for power. The pedal ratio is determined by measuring the distance from the pedal pivot point to the pedal itself and then dividing that number by the distance from the pedal pivot point to where the brake rod attaches to the pedal arm.

Yep, this is always important. And like I said, runs a different rod :)

nice pics :smokin: my jeep will be sicker when i slap that shit in:eek:
anyways you know what i had a problem with my rear discs i was pulling my hair outta my head i had front cadys on my rear i took them out slaped in rear caddy and i had sick pedal pressure it had to do with the caliper being just as big in the bag so when i went to a smaller caliper i had tons more pressure building up.i spoke to the guys a TSM and ordered the conversion package for a 14 bolt since i have one now :D and they said to it doesnt matter which isnt true unless you wanna do all of that shit above make sure the lines are in tack try to keep as much connections down to a single line and try it from there.