Okay guys,

I did the FLITE 210/220 install in the Black Rangie this weekend. All went well, for once. :D This truck is usually a nightmare to do anything on. The install was pretty straight forward.

- Remove viscous, [w/o Diff-lock 4x4 required tool. How did I do that?] :flipoff2:

- Drop 220's in behind radiator

- Take some measure for my 2x2 aluminum angle

- Remove the radiator [So I could properly secure it with a bracket at the bottom]

- Scramble to find something to let the coolant drip into :shaking:

- Cut my brackets to lenght and pre-drill the mounting holes

- Used some 1" self tappers to secure the brackets to the radiator and 220's

- Reinstall as one complete unit

- Put my junk back together and re-fill the coolant levels

- Jump the fans manually [Won't my relays until Monday.]

- Finished for now

I must say I am very impressed with several aspects of the fans. They don't seem to be overly lound and there is not as much drag on the engine without the viscous unit which is nice. I picked up a nice fuse block from West Marine [see link below] to re-wire not just the fans but everything else in this thing. I hope to get it done next week so I will post some more pictures when I am finished.

The Rangie was constantly running at .75 or above and now with the fans installed it stays around .50. Personally I think my radiator is shot [see below] but I am happy with this for now. I have done a search and I plan on looking into the performanceradiator.com route rather than a re-core unless of course by re-core you can achieve much better cooling by going a different route than OEM specs. Any one care to comment on this??? I think one of my problems might be that this is an 87 which had the 3.5 we have since installed a 3.9 and I am wondering if that could be contributing to the cooling issues. Should I look at going with a larger radiator from a 90+ RRC??? Or could a non-stock re-core help my problem? Currently mine doesn't have the internal extra coolers so if I went with a bigger unit could I just "not use" those functions of the other radiator?

Just FYI, Mike Hippert and Cgalpin over at D-90 gave me the idea and I want to say thanks! If anyone wants the wiring diagram just let me know.

Link to fuse block:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=91545

http://www.get-rhino.com/photogallery/flexalite220/IM002272.JPG

http://www.get-rhino.com/photogallery/flexalite220/IM002273.JPG

http://www.get-rhino.com/photogallery/flexalite220/IM002275.JPG

http://www.get-rhino.com/photogallery/flexalite220/IM002276.JPG

http://www.get-rhino.com/photogallery/flexalite220/IM002277.JPG

http://www.get-rhino.com/photogallery/flexalite220/IM002278.JPG

http://www.get-rhino.com/photogallery/flexalite220/IM002280.JPG

Jason:
You're getting closer to making up for some of your earlier posts. Looks pretty good.

As for radiators, depending upon your radiator contractor, it might be cheaper to go new. If you can't find one, give me a call, I have finally found a less expensive replacement radiator-sometimes competitive with recoring).

PT

Jason,
looks good. Those fans are a great fit on the core.

The two small fittings at the top of the right hand tank, are those tranny cooler?

If you go with an after market radiator, Griffons are very well made and have a good price from Summit. They have a pretty good variety of sizes. Not sure what your limitations are but I know a couple folks that are running aluminum radiators in their Series trucks and love them. Mine is 3 years old now and going strong.
Only problem is a trail fix on an aluminum radiator is a bit more difficult to perform then a copper core. The tubes crack if you try and crush and roll them. I have seen JB Weld work the best. Just cram it in the fins from both sides.
So consider an extruded aluminum, or metal "screen" in front of the radiator to protect it.

Uhm, why does your ruler have a big notch in it?

Pete

The two small fittings at the top of the right hand tank, are those tranny cooler?

One goes to the plenum deicer (or intake manifold if you've bypassed the plenum deicer).

The other one goes to the expansion tank.

The tranny and engine oil coolers are mounted on the end tanks and are threaded fittings.

Uhm, why does your ruler have a big notch in it?

Pete

Its not a notch its just poor lighting. It is actually a square. Look again.

I guess we cant all be *superstar* Michael Slade!
:flipoff2:

-Jeff

Pete, I finished up the fans I will post some more pics soon. I redid the mounting with grade 8 bolts and even buffed the aluminum angle so it looks all swirly. :) However, even with the new fans and re-rodding/cleaning the radiator it's still getting hot. ARGH!

I ordered the transcooler [$25.00 from Summit] as well so I will post some info on that install when it's done. I am hoping on being able to save this ZF with a new filter and fresh fluid. :shaking:

It seems as though the obsession with cooling has taken me over....

Its not a notch its just poor lighting. It is actually a square. Look again.


Jesus I need to get my eyes checked :shaking:

Is the Flexalite 210/220 the best choice if I am going to retain the stock radiator for this conversion? Any wisdom on this conversion?

I have a radiator in my truck that came from a 95RRC, that I had rebuilt with a 5 row core for around $300. The needle has never gone above half way since I've done that. Its probably possible to buy a new rad with similar specs for that price, but it sure won't be a direct fit.

been there done it (thanks to pt) for some help
and still have issues but they are not do to over heating more like I have "charging" issues and thus not getting the right reading on the gauge or some such I will find a solution to this and post the answer as soon as the boys give me minute to get something done
:shaking: