TOTW: SBC engine swaps using EFI [Archive]

Jared Rude

03-01-2002, 12:35 PM

Not to monopolize this post or anything , but I also need a fuel pump that will deliver "greater than 35 gallons per hour" at "43-55 PSI" according to the documentation that came with my Ramjet 350.

I 've been looking at the Mallory Series 60FI and 110FI.

What I've read says the 60FI will deliver 70 PSI up to about 30 GPH dropping off to exactly 60 GPH by 36 GPH.

The 110FI will deliver about 96 PSI all the way up to about 85 GPH.

The 60 sounds marginal, and the 110 sounds like overkill... anybody have first or second hand experience with either of these pumps?

Will running the 110 pump cause problems with leakage or possibly overwhelm the vacuum-actuated bypass valve on my fuel rail?

http://www.mrgasket.com/pdf/FuelSystemsM.pdf

If the Mallory pump is rated at 36 gph @ 60 psi, then there is probably some safety factor built into it. It may not be as marginal as you think. I imagine either would work fine. How much power do you really plan on making? The pump runnnig at 36 gph should support roughly 300 hp, assuming 10% of the fuel is bypassed back to the tank. A full 60 gph will support around 500 hp, and 110 gph will support around 940 hp, both assuming 10% of the fuel is returned to the tank.

Do you HAVE to run 55 psi? If you don't plan on going with forced induction, you probably will never have fuel pressure that high. Most fuel injectors are rated at a 38-42 psi pressure differential. You wouldn't have to run more than 42 psi unless 1) you have forced induction, or 2) your injectors are too small, so raising the fuel pressure artifically enlarges thier capacity.

That being said, I've never actually used a Mallory pump. I've only used the Walbro electric pumps, the Airtek pumps which are marketed by Vortech and Nitrous Oxide Systems, and Weldon pumps.

The Walbro pumps are relatively inexpensive, and are basically factory type pumps found in the 5.0 Mustangs. You can get a 255 lph (88 gph) exernal pump for about $120 from most Mustang shops around the country. This will flow the full 255 lph at 42 psi, with very little flow capacity reduction at 55 psi. However, it's NOT good at low pressure, and sometimes takes a few seconds to prime when used by itself (no intank pump feeding it).

The Airtek (Vortech T-Rex, NOS External Pusher) pump flows about 188 lph, and has similar characteristics to the Walbro 255. Price is significantly higher than the Walbro pumps though.

I've never actually seen one of those two above pumps die. I've seen factory intank Mustang pumps die, but they lasted around 100k miles before giving up. I imagine duraility would be about the same with the two above pumps.

If you thought the Mallory 110FI was big, then a Weldon would be incredible overkill in your application.

The 110FI could *theoretically* overwhelm the bypass on the fuel rail, but honestly, I have never actually seen this happen with any pump in any fuel system in the past. Maybe it will, but most likely it won't. If it does, just reduce voltage to the pump, or enlarge the bypass.

yjtj

03-01-2002, 04:55 PM

i swapped a 5.7 tbi from a truck into my 91 yj. i used a centech wiring harness with the stock truck computer. i bolted the motor in with the aa yj bolt in saddle mount, used a becool radiator, and hedman yj conversion headers. for the fuel pump i used i bought from howell. all these components work great and i am fully satisfied with them. if yah have any ? about any of these ask away.

Charly

03-02-2002, 04:49 AM

yjtj,

how are those headers holding up? Do they use salt on your roads (in hell) at all?

Charly

yjtj

03-02-2002, 09:11 AM

i stored it this winter, so i couldnt tell yah

High5

03-02-2002, 06:15 PM

on my 99 vortec i am using a fuel pump for a 89 f150 with a 351w. this is a frame rail mounted pump and works well for me.

patooyee

03-02-2002, 08:36 PM

Wow, this couldn't have come at a better time. I am swapping a 350 into my Jeep AS WE SPEAK. I just opened the motor tonight, which I bought for $400 running with a TH350 attached. The guy I bought it from said it was a brand-new motor less than 1000 miles ago. I was hoping it was, but figured even if it wasn't $400 was good for a core TH350 and 350. (Even though I saw it running before he pulled it and it ran great.) It suppossedly was bored .030 with a 10.25 CR.

Anyway, after opening it up tonight, I found that EVERYTHING inside it is brand-new! There is no sludge build up on anything! My brother even asked if the inside was painted! So now begins the swap, which I am putting TPI on, also.

I guess my question for now is what electric fan to run? That, and what headers? I need TPI-style headers so that I can use the oxygen sensor in it. But they need to be shorty-style to fit in the Jeep and also cheap. :)

J. J.

PS: My dream engine is a 383 TPI stroker. If I put a 400 crank in now while I have the oil pan off, is that all I need to do to get it? Or would the cam be totally wrong? I'm only willing to go ahead with the 383 conversion id that is all I have to do. I have already put enough money into this thing as is!

MNBen

03-02-2002, 08:47 PM

Howell Engineering sells a fuel pump for this conversion. I'm using it in my 95 4.3L vortec swap that needs ~50 psi in order to run, and it keeps up fine. A friend of mine is also running it on his LT-1 swap with no problems. They sell it for around $120. It appears to be very similar to the Vortec pumps in Summit.

Just my 2cents.

Ben.

yjtj

03-02-2002, 09:35 PM

patooyee i had to run an electric fan between the radiator and grill cause i put the march pulleys on and had to use and long waterpump.

Charly

03-03-2002, 03:25 AM

patooyee,

The block has to be clearanced for the crank, so you can't just put one in. And I think all 400 cranks were two-piece sealed, so you'd at least need an adapter for the rear seal. thye do make aftermarket cranks with one-piece seal and the stroke of the 400, but once again, you'd need to clearance for it.

MarkF

03-03-2002, 06:12 AM

I'm putting in a TPI on my SB350 this summer (in my 86 CJ7). For you guys using external frame rail pumps, did you do anything different for the tank like a baffle or sump? What about a pre-low pressure pump?

I know on one of the Bronco places they had an external accumulater that a had a low pressure pump that would act as a sump/baffle. I'm curious if anyone has felt any of this to be necessary.

I have a factory 20+ gallon plastic tank in there now and I'm debating doing the 87-90 2.5 YJ sender w/ 90+ EFI pump hybrid swap into my tank or possibly even getting a 15g YJ tank with the build in baffle. Alternatively, I can just get 2 external frame rail pumps for the same money as the YJ sender/pump hybrid.

Mark F

yjtj

03-03-2002, 01:39 PM

Johncm

03-03-2002, 05:14 PM

Who runs the 4.3 and are you happy with it or do yo wish you did the 5.7.

MNBen

03-03-2002, 08:33 PM

Jakesteramalamajama

03-04-2002, 04:35 AM

Originally posted by Jared Rude

http://www.mrgasket.com/pdf/FuelSystemsM.pdf

If the Mallory pump is rated at ... voltage to the pump, or enlarge the bypass.

Thanks Jared,

This pump is for my RJ350 which is supposed to make 350 horsepower and the recommendations that I had in quotes were straight from the installation specs that came with the engine. I did a little light reading this weekend (the GM Service manual that came with the engine) and it cautions about having too much fuel pressure, so I'm probably going with the 60 FI (or an equivalently sized) pump. I'll look into those Walbro pumps.

Thanks again,
Jake Harsha
:beer:

Jakesteramalamajama

03-04-2002, 04:43 AM

Originally posted by yjtj
i swapped a 5.7 tbi from a truck into my 91 yj. i used a centech wiring harness with the stock truck computer. i bolted the motor in with the aa yj bolt in saddle mount, used a becool radiator, and hedman yj conversion headers. for the fuel pump i used i bought from howell. all these components work great and i am fully satisfied with them. if yah have any ? about any of these ask away.

yjtj,

Two questions:

1 Can you be any more specific about the AA saddle mount? How would you say they compare to the M.O.R.E. mounts?

2 How much did the pulleys set you back... I have the long water pump as well and I'll be going with a Flex-a-Lite or similar electric fan.

Thanks,
Jake

yjtj

03-04-2002, 05:03 AM

the sadle mount goes from frame rail to frame rail. it bolts in existing holes in the framerail just under the shock towers. then it also bolts to the shocktowers, and even worked with the more shockhoop extentions. i really like the saddle mount, i think its a better idea then just regular mounts that bolt or weld to the frame. the aa mount also lets you adjust the motor foward or back or in the standard position which is what i used. as for the pulleys they are expensive, the whole kit ran me $500, that included the 4 pulleys and the power steering pump and altenator brackets. its worth it in looks, most people cream there pants when they see my motor

yjtj

03-04-2002, 05:19 AM

ok now i have a question for the rest of you. did you converet your stock guages to work with the chevy motor or did you replace them with aftermarket. this is about the only thing i have left and i think im gonna tear the whole yj dash off and put a flat dash on and just put a water temp, oil pressure, voltometer, and tach on it and possibly a tranny temp guage. i dont figure i need the speedo or gas guage as i dont daily it and theres no way ill ever get a legal inspection sticker for it. im just wondering how hard and spensive it was to make the stock stuff work. i just hate the look of the stock dash

Jakesteramalamajama

03-04-2002, 05:44 AM

Originally posted by yjtj
ok now i have a question for the rest of you. did you converet your stock guages to work with the chevy motor or did you replace them with aftermarket. this is about the only thing i have left and i think im gonna tear the whole yj dash off and put a flat dash on and just put a water temp, oil pressure, voltometer, and tach on it and possibly a tranny temp guage. i dont figure i need the speedo or gas guage as i dont daily it and theres no way ill ever get a legal inspection sticker for it. im just wondering how hard and spensive it was to make the stock stuff work. i just hate the look of the stock dash

I was just going to replace the stock gauges in the existing dash with VDOs and be done with it. I was planning on fabbing some sort of panel to hold them in their original locations behind the stock plastic openings. It shouldn't be too much trouble.

I don't really mind the look of the stock dash and the thought of ripping it all out and starting all over again doesn't appleal to me--I'm already changing the entire drivetrain. That's enough work for now.

Jake

Jakesteramalamajama

03-04-2002, 05:46 AM

Originally posted by yjtj
the sadle mount goes from frame rail to frame rail. it bolts in existing holes in the framerail just under the shock towers. then it also bolts to the shocktowers, and even worked with the more shockhoop extentions. i really like the saddle mount, i think its a better idea then just regular mounts that bolt or weld to the frame. the aa mount also lets you adjust the motor foward or back or in the standard position which is what i used. as for the pulleys they are expensive, the whole kit ran me $500, that included the 4 pulleys and the power steering pump and altenator brackets. its worth it in looks, most people cream there pants when they see my motor

O.K. You convinced me. I'm ordering the AA Saddle mount. If it doesn't work it's all your fault. :flipoff2: ;)

You're right about one thing--those pulleys ROCK. If I had an extra $500 burning a hole in my pocket or cared that much about how my engine looked, I'd buy them in a second. :flipoff2: just kidding. They're sweet. ;)

[Meanwhile, back in the real world...] I was thinking of going to the junkyard and robbing some pulleys and brackets off an as-yet-undetermined junkyard donor vehicle. I was thinking mid-to-late 90s pickup... Hoping to use my existing power steering pump and alternator if I could. Anybody gone this route?

Jake Harsha

MarkF

03-04-2002, 10:56 AM

On my swap into my CJ7, I got an aftermarket tach, temp, fuel pressure & trans temp. I didn't have a stock tach anyways and the factory temp is now dormant. The other factory guages still work. Though now I forget which guage is right next to my stock voltmeter, that one is dormant too.

Mark F

mike

03-04-2002, 01:52 PM

yjtj

03-04-2002, 02:23 PM

yes they are. they are smaller so require less power from the motor to spin them plus they spin the power steering pump and altenater faster so theres more hydro pressure and more charge. i have heard people say dont run underdrive pulleys on a offroad rig but that makes no scence.

patooyee

03-04-2002, 06:07 PM

I've seen the AA sadle mount and was worried about one thing: Does it allow you to remove your oil pan completely without pulling the engine? If not, I hate the idea. If so, I'll make my own. :)

J. J.

yjtj

03-05-2002, 06:21 AM

not sure i have had no need to take it off, but i think it would come off

YJ4LIFE

03-05-2002, 12:08 PM

for the best TBI help board come here: http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/forumdisplay.php?forumid=17 Tons of info to search on. I'm a moderator there.

Charly

03-05-2002, 12:31 PM

I'll second that, great bunch of people, very helpful.

Originally posted by YJ4LIFE
for the best TBI help board come here: http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/forumdisplay.php?forumid=17 Tons of info to search on. I'm a moderator there.

TJTRUBL

03-05-2002, 06:51 PM

TPI 355 in my TJ. I am using the stock 6 cyl. radiator and a black majic electric fan and it stays at 180 deg. all day. I also used a stock 88 camero in-tank fuel pump and have had no problems running 45lbs. For exhaust I happened to have a set of ported ram horn manifolds laying around I drilled for the O2 sensor and they work pretty good too. Gauges I went with Auto meter (left over drag car parts) and am still looking for the correct fuel level gauge. Mine was originally made for a ford and doesnt work at all. Wire harness I went with Painless wireing, fit great and havnt had a problem. Motor mounts I went with AA and I would probably build my own next time. Live and learn.

Dave

MarkF

03-05-2002, 07:14 PM

What is everyone using for fuel lines? Flexible or steel?

Mark F

yjtj

03-05-2002, 11:45 PM

i used rubber fuel line

MarkF

03-06-2002, 10:00 AM

You used flexible the whole way around? What diameter is everyone recommending for supply and return?

tys

03-06-2002, 11:23 AM

i used my stock 91 gas tank and a external fuel pump from howell. the stock fuel pump puts out to much psi for throttle body but for tpi it should be just about right. i just disconnected the power to the stock one, but its still in the tank

For the TBI setups, you can use a gas tank and fuel pump from an 87-90 2.5L TBI YJ.:D :D This is what I'm using for the TBI swap into my CJ7. FYI, the 2.5L pump puts out 14-15PSI at 40GPH, while the TBI needs 9-13 PSI @ 35GPH. :eek: :eek: The TBI's have a built in regulator so the excess fuel will be returned to the tank via the return line.

I'm using AA weld in universal mounts so I have max flexibility. I'm going to be running an SM465/NP205. I'm also going to install a 2in body lift so that I can raise the engine/trans/tcase up as high as possible without compromising my driveshaft angles (too-much...I have to do driveshafts anyways, so I expect to have CV's in them). That NP205 hangs low ya know. :eek:

For a radiator I'll probably go with a HoweRacing universal, a 19x24 will fit in there nicely, along with a electric fan. I'll either get one from Howe as well, or visit the junk yard. :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

For fuel lines, I'll probably run high pressure rubber the whole length because it's an easy solution.

I also plan on Autometer gauges. Clean and proven solution.

Later,

-Chris

Charly

03-06-2002, 03:20 PM

I'm putting a 350 TBI into my 95 YJ (has 4 cyl. MPI).

I compared specs in Airtex's fuel pump book for the following in tank pumps.

89 350 TBI PN # E3902 35 gph @ WO, 12-17 psi shutoff

89 YJ 4cyl. TBI PN # E7001 40 GPH @ WO, 30-46 psi shutoff

95 YJ 4cyl. MPI PN # E8229 45 GPH @ WO, 80-100 psi shutoff

It appears that the physical dimensions are similar enough that I can install the stock pump for the 350 TBI (E3902) in my stock tank, in place of my stock pump (E8229). I will need the intake sock for the 350 pump.

The reason I will do this rather than use a tank with pump from an earlier TBI YJ is that my tank can hold 20 galllons, and the earlier YJs only hold 15. For the wheelin/distance/terrain here I need all the fuel I can get.

Charly

jp junkie

03-06-2002, 03:29 PM

Not to monopolize this post or anything , but I also need a fuel pump that will deliver "greater than 35 gallons per hour" at "43-55 PSI" according to the documentation that came with my Ramjet 350.

Airtex E2000 flows 30 - 40 GPH at WOT and can sustain 70 to 90 psi. You can find the same pump here in Cali at Auto Zone under the private label name Master E 2000 with a lifetime warranty for about 100 bucks. I also use a low pressure high volume pump infront of the E2000, keeps it happy. :smokin:

tys

03-06-2002, 03:48 PM

Charly,

That works for me!:D The only reason why I did not put in a 91+ tank is because I have a CJ, and they won't fit. :(

oh well...

happy wheelin...and keep us in tune with your progress.

-Chris

squarewheels

03-07-2002, 11:55 AM

I have a 4.3L in my CJ7. I am using an external (mid 80's Cadillac) fuel pump. I do not use a low-pressure pump to feed it and have never had any fuel delivery problems. I am using the stock GM engine wiring harness and fuse block assembly. I used Jeep and Chevy wiring diagrams for grafting the passenger compartment wires to the Chevy fuse block assembly.

I was very satisfied with the performance of the engine when I had stock gears, tires, and 4-speed manual. I now run an auto (Th700r4), 5.43 gears, and 35's -- road performance is OK, but a V8 would be real nice; trail performance is awesome.

Passing the smog inspection was fairly easy. It took me three tries. I did discover that the ref. does not play the role of Dr. Watson -- if it appeared that something was missing, I got dinged whether or not it was smog related. So, all my unused wires are either clearly marked for their intended purpose (ex: brake light warning switch) or tucked into the wiring loom.

I did purchase a AutoXRay scanner. A bit pricey, and is seldom used, but well worth the cost. I bought it after taking the Jeep to a local shop to diagnose a run-rich problem. After listening to him tell me how much it may cost for him to work on a custom vehicle I decided I was going to be the only one touching the electronics. The run-rich problem was caused by a bad temp. sensor. Easily, and quickly, diagnosed using the scanner.

jp junkie

03-08-2002, 10:42 AM

I have a 4.3L in my CJ7

Is it a throttle body?:confused:

squarewheels

03-08-2002, 11:25 AM

Throttle body, 160hp, out of a '90 S10.

Jolleyman

03-08-2002, 01:39 PM

Here is a list of fuel line fittings, adapters, and some
other handy parts for GM EFI conversions. This list is
primarily for Saginaw (metric O ring type) fittings. This is
updated to add part no's for Earl's fittings and Weatherhead
fittings.

fuel injection feed and return nut kit GM 1711798
thread sizes are 14mm X 1.5 and 16mm X 1.5

Connector, fuel feed, double female lines GM 15544805
connects two male 3/8" Saginaw ends
Connector, fuel return, double female lines GM 15550219
connects two male 5/16" Saginaw ends
Short sections of line, approx2", with metric/quick connect
ends
Pressure: GM#15694407 $10.55 list
15609225 short, straight $2.55
15609224 short, u shaped $3.25
15694408 $10.55

These fittings can easily be used with rubber line by using
the quick connect side as a barb. Be sure to use quality
clamps and hose rated for appropriate pressures.

Stainless steel braided hose, feed and return
15567762 approx. 30"long $72 list
This line is used on '88 and '89 pickups. Looks nice and
it's flexible, but spendy.

rubber hoses
22527471 fuel feed, 1 male X 1 female 3/8" ID
22528623 fuel return 1male X 1 male 5/16" ID
10114736 return hose female X female 5/16" ID
10114709 feed hose female X female 3/8" ID
These are hoses which connect between the tank and the
lines. There are many different versions available, and
they are all model specific.

O rings
22514722 fuel feed
22516256 fuel ret.

Fuel Filters
25055052 or GF 481 (AC) standard efi filter
25055003 or GF 478 (AC) 1983 Camaro with Crossfire (5.0 "S"
engine) barbed hose end on inlet and 3/8 inv. flare on
outlet
GF626 has same fittings as GF481, is stainless steel (not
polished), and costs less! Fits 1995 Chevy pickup.
__________________________________________________ __

Motorvac Fittings
MV0603400: fuel feed m16X1.5 to 3/8" inv. flare $16.50
MV0603304: fuel ret. metric14X1.5 to 5/16" inv. flare $15.04

Available through Snap On Dealer
Motorvac Tech Support (800) 841-8810
(I will use these, and have ordered one of each)
_________________________________________________
Accel Saginaw parts:

JUMPER LINES:
"The kit consists of three 12" long, 3/8" diameter steel
tubes and one 12"
long, 5/16" diameter steel tube with the Saginaw flare used
in stock GM fuel
injection systems. It allows direct connection to TPI fuel
rails and a high
pressure fuel filter." (one end has Saginaw fitting, other
end is unfinished)

Jumper Line Kit:74731
3/8" Jumper Line Only:74731-A
5/16" Jumper Line Only:74731-B

HOSE BARB FITTING:
3/8 Saginaw/Hose Barb Fitting (2 ea):74720-A
(for both sides of a high pressure fuel filter, e.g. AC
GF481)

FUEL LINE FITTINGS:
"High quality aluminum fittings provide perfect fit to adapt
GM fuel rails (Saginaw) or high pressure fuel filters with Saginaw flares to AN-type fittings."

Fuel Filter Fitting Kit: 3/8 Saginaw to 6AN (2 ea):74721
TPI Fuel Rail Fitting Kit: 3/8 Saginaw to 6AN (1 ea), 5/16
Saginaw to AN (1
ea): 74730

HIGH FLOW FUEL FILTER & PUMP FITTINGS:
"Anodized in a rich gold, these fittings allow the highest
flowrate of any
Saginaw fitting available. Complete with O-rings, these
fittings now accept
#8AN fuel line."

High Flow Fuel Filter Fitting: 74743-H
High Flow Fuel Pump Fitting: 74711-H
Fuel Filter with 3/8 Saginaw provisions: 74720 (like GF481)
__________________________________________________ __

Weatherhead Fittings

3/8" inverted flare to 14 X 1.5mm 1445
3/8" inverted flare to 16 X 1.5mm 1446
3/8" inverted flare to 18 X 1.5mm 1447

__________________________________________________ __
Earls (1-800-421-2712)

part no.
991954 14mm X 1.5 (return line)
991955 16mm X 1.5 (pressure line)
991956 18mm X 1.5 (power steering line)

These fittings adapt to a -6 AN line.
__________________________________________________ _

Fuel feed lines in stock applications are typically 3/8"dia.
and return lines are typically 5/16" dia.

Some EFI conversions use Saginaw type line ends cut from
stock lines and attached to standard steel line with compression fittings. These fittings have their roots in hydraulic applications,
and shops which make hydraulic hoses may be able to find
Saginaw ends to make custom lines. My personal preference is for the Earl's stuff but its not cheap. I was told by several trusted local sources that there was no aftermarket replacement for the metric Saginaw style fittings off a TBI so wanted to make sure everyone knew that there are in fact metric to AN adapters out there. Sorry for the long message.

Grendel

03-10-2002, 09:07 PM

Originally posted by Charly
yjtj,

how are those headers holding up? Do they use salt on your roads (in hell) at all?

Charly

got em in my YJ. Ran it two seasons in NH. Replacing them this month.

03-15-2002, 10:49 AM

Top

Grendel

03-15-2002, 11:04 AM

Anyone know if 5.7L Vortech FI manifold will fit a 6.0 Vortech block and heads?

yjtj

03-15-2002, 05:35 PM

like i said i had my jeep stored for the winter as i have no inner fenders and its not completed yet, i had mine coated though, im sure it makes a diff

YJ4LIFE

03-15-2002, 05:57 PM

Originally posted by Grendel
Anyone know if 5.7L Vortech FI manifold will fit a 6.0 Vortech block and heads?
what years are you talking about? The Gen1 (generation 1) small block chevy ran from 1955 to 1998 in North American produciton vehicles. The Gen3 (generation 3) GM small block came out in 1997 as the LS1 in the corvette. Trucks got the iron block Vortec versions in 1999. The 1996-1998 Vortec truck engines are 99.9% different from the new ones and nothing interchanges.

If you have any more questions that I might be able to answer my AOL IM is superGRtaz

Grendel

03-15-2002, 06:08 PM

Originally posted by YJ4LIFE

what years are you talking about? The Gen1 (generation 1) small block chevy ran from 1955 to 1998 in North American produciton vehicles. The Gen3 (generation 3) GM small block came out in 1997 as the LS1 in the corvette. Trucks got the iron block Vortec versions in 1999. The 1996-1998 Vortec truck engines are 99.9% different from the new ones and nothing interchanges.

Talking 99 Vortec 6.0L block and heads with 98 5.7 Vortec Intake manifold and MPFI.

Makes me wonder if it will fly. I can get the 6.0L for a song but it's been stripped of it FI.

I wonder if the 98 5.7 FI will fit my 79 Corvette 5.7?

YJ4LIFE

03-15-2002, 06:20 PM

Originally posted by Grendel
Talking 99 Vortec 6.0L block and heads with 98 5.7 Vortec Intake manifold and MPFI.

won't work. Totally different.

Originally posted by Grendel
Makes me wonder if it will fly. I can get the 6.0L for a song but it's been stripped of it FI.

email ValveGod@aol.com he can get you a Vortec truck intake.
email ISERCASTiK@aol.com too. He's my friend that parts out and rebuilds Camaros and Firebirds.

Originally posted by Grendel
I wonder if the 98 5.7 FI will fit my 79 Corvette 5.7?

You can get vortec heads for the vette for $420 in car magazines and GM parts websites like www.sdpc2000.com With those heads the 5.7L FI will go right on.

Grendel

03-15-2002, 07:26 PM

Originally posted by YJ4LIFE

You can get vortec heads for the vette for $420 in car magazines and GM parts websites like www.sdpc2000.com With those heads the 5.7L FI will go right on.

What about the VSS? I am running a TH350 and a D-300. How do I tell the MPFI how fast the truck is going?

Adam Ant

03-15-2002, 08:39 PM

Originally posted by Grendel

What about the VSS? I am running a TH350 and a D-300. How do I tell the MPFI how fast the truck is going?

Not VSS if you use the MPFI
Reluctor Ring in the transfer case 40,000 Pulse Mag type

Contact these guys ask for Zack or Greg they can help you out with the parts you need!

www.speedscenewiring.com

Adam,

Grendel

03-16-2002, 12:33 PM

Originally posted by Adam Ant

Not VSS if you use the MPFI
Reluctor Ring in the transfer case 40,000 Pulse Mag type

Contact these guys ask for Zack or Greg they can help you out with the parts you need!

www.speedscenewiring.com

Adam,

Cool, thanks. Getting the feelers out to see what I can find for a motor. I won the EFI now I have to get heads and a tranny.
Still wondering which way I should go.

Jeepman22

03-17-2002, 09:28 AM

I have a chance to grab a TBI 350 with the comp. Since this is my frist engine swap i have a lot of q's. Could i use the stock fuse block for my lights and everything eles, then just tie in the 350's TBI and computer? or will everyting have to be rewired? Also, How long did it take most of you to swap and how much? I know these are typical newbie questions, but what do you expect?

Thanks in advance
Mike:flipoff2: :mad2: :flipoff2:

JeeperJake

09-10-2002, 09:51 PM

btt for this guy - i would like to know too

- jake

Jakesteramalamajama

09-11-2002, 05:24 AM

Originally posted by JeeperJake
btt for this guy - i would like to know too

- jake

You do realize that he asked that question 6 months ago and he still has only 17 posts...?

Just checking.

nobody20

09-11-2002, 05:51 AM

http://azvjc.org/pics/2720.0261993737.jpg
My SBC [

nobody20

09-11-2002, 05:54 AM

Originally posted by nobody20
http://azvjc.org/pics/2720_0261993737.jpg
My SBC [

Just trying to drive up the #of posts.:emb4: :D

nobody20

09-11-2002, 06:01 AM

This site has some good information on TPI, LT-1/4, and LS-1 FI.

http://www.fuelinjection.com/

nobody20

09-11-2002, 06:18 AM

Originally posted by Jakesteramalamajama
Not to monopolize this post or anything :flipoff2: , but I also need a fuel pump that will deliver "greater than 35 gallons per hour" at "43-55 PSI" according to the documentation that came with my Ramjet 350.

I 've been looking at the Mallory Series 60FI and 110FI.

What I've read says the 60FI will deliver 70 PSI up to about 30 GPH dropping off to exactly 60 GPH by 36 GPH.

The 110FI will deliver about 96 PSI all the way up to about 85 GPH.

The 60 sounds marginal, and the 110 sounds like overkill... anybody have first or second hand experience with either of these pumps?

Will running the 110 pump cause problems with leakage or possibly overwhelm the vacuum-actuated bypass valve on my fuel rail?

Thanks!

Jake

This should take care of you. Use the in tank pump because it is cooled by the ambient gasoline and you'll have fewer problems. I run the Bosch pump below and have no problems. If it ever goes bad I'll switch to GM pump.

From page 28 of TPIS catalog. http://www.tpis.com/

Both 300-177 and 300-178 are capable of supplying fuel to 550 HP motors. 300-177 is designed for in-line mounting, although it can be mounted in the tank. 300-178 can only be used in the tank and has a built in filter. 300-179 is a factory replacement for all GM multipoint-equipped cars. This in-tank pump has more capacity than stock and is adequate for 400 HP.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

300-177 Use inline with motors up to 550 HP........$180.00

300-178 Use in-take with motors up to 550 HP........$180.00

300-179 GM Pump. Up to 400HP........$100.00

300-185 Bosch Pump. Up to 850HP........$360.00

nobody20

09-11-2002, 06:23 AM

Originally posted by MarkF
What is everyone using for fuel lines? Flexible or steel?

Mark F

I used Earl's braided.

nobody20

09-11-2002, 06:44 AM

Originally posted by patooyee
Wow, this couldn't have come at a better time. I am swapping a 350 into my Jeep AS WE SPEAK. I just opened the motor tonight, which I bought for $400 running with a TH350 attached. The guy I bought it from said it was a brand-new motor less than 1000 miles ago. I was hoping it was, but figured even if it wasn't $400 was good for a core TH350 and 350. (Even though I saw it running before he pulled it and it ran great.) It suppossedly was bored .030 with a 10.25 CR.

Anyway, after opening it up tonight, I found that EVERYTHING inside it is brand-new! There is no sludge build up on anything! My brother even asked if the inside was painted! So now begins the swap, which I am putting TPI on, also.

I guess my question for now is what electric fan to run? That, and what headers? I need TPI-style headers so that I can use the oxygen sensor in it. But they need to be shorty-style to fit in the Jeep and also cheap. :)

J. J.

PS: My dream engine is a 383 TPI stroker. If I put a 400 crank in now while I have the oil pan off, is that all I need to do to get it? Or would the cam be totally wrong? I'm only willing to go ahead with the 383 conversion id that is all I have to do. I have already put enough money into this thing as is!

If I were you I'd use a mechanical fan if at all possible. I've heard of lots of cooling problems on LT-1 swaps with electrical fans. I installed a mechanical fan on my LT-4 and have had absolutely no cooling problems. It can idle for hours and not get hot.

As far as I know there is no such thing as cheap TPI headers. Any cheap header will work, just weld and O2 bung in the collector. Hookers puts and O2 bung on a primary pipe - stupid idea. JBA & SLP LT-1 Camaro headers will work on a YJ but don't know about CJ frame. I would personally recommend the JBA due to their quality. TPIS also has headers that look pretty good but they are $$$.

Think about as set of Vortec heads if you can find them and Scoggin-Dickey is making a TPI manifold that fits the Vortec heads. Makes a really nice package.

You'll have to clearance the block for the rods with the 400 crank swap.

For anybody new to TPI swapping I would recommend the following book:
Chevrolet TPI & TBI Engine Swapping Manual available from:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com
I think either Jegs or Summit carries the book also, I just can't remember which one.

Jakesteramalamajama

09-11-2002, 10:35 AM

Originally posted by nobody20

This should take care of you. Use the in tank pump because it is cooled by the ambient gasoline and you'll have fewer problems. I run the Bosch pump below and have no problems. If it ever goes bad I'll switch to GM pump.

From page 28 of TPIS catalog. http://www.tpis.com/

Both 300-177 and 300-178 are capable of supplying fuel to 550 HP motors. 300-177 is designed for in-line mounting, although it can be mounted in the tank. 300-178 can only be used in the tank and has a built in filter. 300-179 is a factory replacement for all GM multipoint-equipped cars. This in-tank pump has more capacity than stock and is adequate for 400 HP.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

300-177 Use inline with motors up to 550 HP........$180.00

300-178 Use in-take with motors up to 550 HP........$180.00

300-179 GM Pump. Up to 400HP........$100.00

300-185 Bosch Pump. Up to 850HP........$360.00

Uh, thanks man, but I finished the swap about five months ago. :)

I went with the Mallory Series 60FI external and it works swimmingly. No problems.

Thanks for the effort anyway,
Jake

Jakesteramalamajama

09-11-2002, 10:37 AM

Originally posted by nobody20

If I were you I'd use a mechanical fan if at all possible. I've heard of lots of cooling problems on LT-1 swaps with electrical fans. I installed a mechanical fan on my LT-4 and have had absolutely no cooling problems. It can idle for hours and not get hot.

After pissing around with a Black magic fan for a few nights, I too ended up just bolting a 19-inch mechanical flex fan on there and she stays nice and cool. ;)

Jake

cj8scrambld

09-11-2002, 04:48 PM

YJTJ, to qoute you.
"yes they are. they are smaller so require less power from the motor to spin them plus they spin the power steering pump and altenater faster so theres more hydro pressure and more charge. i have heard people say dont run underdrive pulleys on a offroad rig but that makes no scence"

Wouldn't a smaller pulley be an overdrive pulley and spin the appliance faster? People say don't use the underdrive pullies (larger diameter) because they slow the accessories like water pump and alt. which may be fine to free up a couple horses. But underdrive pullies are not a fourwheelers best friend, overdrive would be. John

84scrambler

09-11-2002, 05:44 PM

I didnt catch this when it first came up but to add. On the first page someone said that the 96 vortec motor is better. From my research it isnt true. The 92 through 95 vortec motors have the highest rated horsepower v6's. (As long as you picked up the W vin one) There only draw back is the fuel dilevery system. There heads will out flow any TBI V6 or newer SMPI head. I love my motor and wouldnt go to a 350. They produce a little less power then a throttle body 350 but they also weight about 150lbs less and can spin up faster and have a slightly higher red line.

AGGIECJ-7

09-12-2002, 12:33 AM

Originally posted by nobody20

Just trying to drive up the #of posts.:emb4: :D

why do you need 3 optima batteries? and is that a vett motor?

Jakesteramalamajama

09-12-2002, 04:51 AM

Originally posted by AGGIECJ-7

why do you need 3 optima batteries? and is that a vett motor?

Isn't the front one in front an OBW?

nobody20

09-12-2002, 05:07 AM

Originally posted by AGGIECJ-7

why do you need 3 optima batteries? and is that a vett motor?

Only an Aggie would ask this.:)

No there are only two Optima batteries. The front red box is a Linc-Arc welder.

You might say its a Vette motor. It started life as an LT-4 and before it had even turned over it was taken apart and BUILT as a 383. I am a firm believer that high horseposer is great, excessive horsepower is optimal.

Here are the engine's specs.
LT-4 bored and stroked to 383, H.O.T. cam, Callies 4340 crank, Manley 4340 H-beam rods, Childs & Albert zero-gap rings, SRP 11:1 pistons, Crane 1.6 roller rockers, CNC ported, polished, and port matched, balanced, blueprinted, port matched and ported LT-4 exhaust manifolds. Custom fabricated setup for a crank driven fan from a Caprice. Dual 2.5" exhaust w/Random cats and DynoMax bullet race mufflers (tight fit w/the 4-link setup). Street and Performance wiring harness. MAP setup off earlier LT-1 with custom chip from the Turbo Shop.

Believe it or not this engine idles wonderfully when rock crawling. Its lots of fun getting on the stupid pedal.

'76 :) :D

AGGIECJ-7

09-12-2002, 10:24 AM

Originally posted by nobody20

Only an Aggie would ask this.:)

No there are only two Optima batteries. The front red box is a Linc-Arc welder.
'

have a few :beer: and then look at that picture again...it looked like an optima last night. i even told myself...nahh noone would need 3 of em...but thats what it looked like....oh well...:flipoff2:

Eagle-Mark

10-30-2004, 09:45 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by MarkF
What is everyone using for fuel lines? Flexible or steel?
Mark F

I used Earl's braided. There's a fuel injection rubber line that's easy to work with and rated at 300 psi at most parts stores.

For a nice no hassle wiring harness check:
http://www.affordable-fuel-injection.com/tbi-wiring-harness.htm
There's also a pirate discount in the vendor section! :D

AtomicBeesting

10-30-2004, 10:20 PM

I'm doing a 95 350TBi into an 85 CJ7.

What hoses are you guys using between the GM steering pump and the Jeep steering box?

GaryTJ

10-31-2004, 10:22 AM

I am running a 94 cpi 4.3 motor in my 97 TJ, except I converted it back to a TBI for simplicity. I love the motor and it works well for everything I do. Touch the key and it is running and it idles smooth and will crawl over anything without complaining. adapting it to the NV4500hd was not fun but doable, the only problem I ran into was to keep the stock guages and dash, because they all run through the factory computer. I had to take two complete computer systems and meld them together to make it work.

mounts and such, I made. Exhaust manifolds from a 92 s-10 work fine. I just welded an o2 sensor bung into the pipe a ft or so downstream. Power steering lines from the s-10 went right onto the steering box with no modifications. Advance adapters had the fittings for the clutch setup that goes to a toyota slave cyl on a custom mount.

I went to a transfer case mount from a 98 dodge turbo diesel after tearing apart the stock one real fast. Made an adapter to convert the stock A/C to a York and have been wheeling it for 3 years now with no problems at all.

hammer74

10-31-2004, 05:22 PM

95+LT1 with a Street & Performance harness mated to built 4L80E. factory GM mounts and getting computer reconfiged is a breeze. Use standard SBC headers for CJ and drill-install OS. P/P Heads with some other mods and pull 400 hp on pump gas. Very easy swap.

tvguy

12-14-2004, 08:29 PM

HEEPJEEP

12-15-2004, 06:11 AM

Any of you runing either LT1's or LT4's have a way to set up a saginaw steering pump on the motor? Can you use a factory water pump to replace the gear driven one or is it necessary to use the one that I heard JBconversions makes?

85GAJEEPCJ7

12-15-2004, 02:31 PM

"After pissing around with a Black magic fan for a few nights, I too ended up just bolting a 19-inch mechanical flex fan on there and she stays nice and cool. ;)"

Has anyone used a stock Chevrolet mechanical fan and clutch? I'm going to try to get my drivetrain installed over the Christmas holidays and I need to get my fan ordered so I can get the engine in and lined up.

I am using the stock fan and clutch that came on my motor. It is a 1995 TBI set up out of a G-20 Van. That with the Be-Cool Radiator and homemade aluminum shroud. It stays too cool. I cannot get it above 155 so I am changing out the thermostat for a 190* at the suggestion of some on the Pirate Board.

brcook_00

12-15-2004, 09:01 PM

Anyone have any experience swapping an SBC into an XJ/MJ? I'm getting the parts together to build a 383 for my MJ. I'm specifically concerned about cooling. Anyone have pointers on this and any other aspects of the swap?

mbryson

09-28-2005, 02:41 PM

I'm doing a 95 350TBi into an 85 CJ7.

What hoses are you guys using between the GM steering pump and the Jeep steering box?

Digging this thread up from the dead.....:D

Putting an '89 TBI 350 (and all accessories) into a '94 YJ. Using the YJ steering box.

I don't have a whole stock YJ pressure hose, but it looks like that'd work out pretty good. Anyone with a swap that used the YJ pressure hose to the GM steering pump?

DDawg16

09-28-2005, 04:18 PM

I cut the rubber portion of my original line (pressure side) off...I then cut off most of hte metal line on the pump side, leaving about a 4" section....went down to NAPA and had the guy there crimp on a new hose between the two metal ends. Almost as good as factory.

Hijumper

09-28-2005, 07:14 PM

mbryson

09-28-2005, 08:23 PM

I just got done with a 4.3L conversion. I used the OEM jeep P.S that was with my 2.5 4 banger. I compared it to the chevy pump, they were almost identical. Had to modify the bracket a little, no biggy - fit right in.

Cool! I'm going to buy one tomorrow (don't have it at my 'local' Autozone or Checker, so I have to go downtown to get a Jeep part--kinda don't blame them) at one of the 'warehouse' stores in downtown SLC and see how it works out.

Just for anyone's reference reading about power steering hose

The fitting ends for Chev AND Jeep Wrangler in the parts books are 16mm and 18mm. So it's just a matter of finding the right hose and bends and such.

JEEPSKEET

09-29-2005, 03:29 PM

I did my SBC swap back in 1990, Back then there was no "kits" the only thing I had was a AA motor mount kit and the AA trans case adap. It took me about 2 month to fab and round up misc parts. I look back and what a PITA it was. I went thru about 4 radiators and had to fab all the mounts untill NOVAC came out with the griffin thay offer now. that ended my cooling prob. I use a flex fan and a electric pusher fan. Tried to mount a flex-a-lite black magic, but I didn't have the room,Didn't want to move the motor back or the grill out any. Don't wast your time on a carb....... never could get one to run good enough. I now have the HOWELL TBI kit.
http://www.usjeeps.com/members/p155-1083977246.jpg

Howell kit
http://www.usjeeps.com/members/p155-1109008200.jpg

09-29-2005, 08:07 PM

I'm running a bcool with my 99 vortec 5.7 and I can't get it above 180. I've got a 4.3 fan on it which is slightly smaller than the 5.7 fan. The Street and Performance harness is a no brainer - connect 3 wires. They can work over the computer also. The grill can be cut out to push the radiator forward in a YJ for extra clearance. I'm running 4.0 XJ fuel pump and hard lines underneath. Chevy P/S lines work with a jeep box although I just converted to hydroboost (Vanco) and a 98 C30 P/S hydroboost pump and case fits on a 5.7 serp bracket. I kept the stock a/c compressor and use it to pump air.

yager

09-29-2005, 08:43 PM

Quick update on my tbi swap in.. I got a donor motor, ECU (8746) and harness from a 1990 camero and am swaping things over. Im took my time, redid the harness and added/removed wires as needed to fit my needs. Also added the IAT (intake air temp) sensor to the air cleaner, will retain all the stuff for the auto tranny, VSS, and shifter. Kept OEM relays for Fuel and my elec. fan. Crimped and soldered everything. Came out nice.

I'm curently working on the fuse block swap over. Wanted things to be neat, and have ample fuses for the ECM, injectors, Fuel pump etc...

mbryson

10-04-2005, 09:02 AM

Cool! I'm going to buy one tomorrow (don't have it at my 'local' Autozone or Checker, so I have to go downtown to get a Jeep part--kinda don't blame them) at one of the 'warehouse' stores in downtown SLC and see how it works out.

Just for anyone's reference reading about power steering hose

The fitting ends for Chev AND Jeep Wrangler in the parts books are 16mm and 18mm. So it's just a matter of finding the right hose and bends and such.

OK....I got the 4 cylinder YJ pressure hose from Autozone {# 71821} and put it on last night. It'll work, but I really don't like all the 'slack' in the hose (it should be about 6-8" shorter). Puts it in 'great peril' near the springs and no guarantee it wouldn't make it's way into the serpentine belt system either...........(like how I tied the 'Grail' reference in there?)......so I'm looking for a shorter one, today.

Fl-Krawler

10-04-2005, 10:35 AM

best advise is to buy a whole donar vehicle when you start looking for an engine. i bought a 86 camaro with a bad rod and fresh out of the tranny shop built 700r4. i used the brass radiator and motor mounts from 4wd hardware and while i'm not to happy with the radiator the motor mounts are awesome..i originally bought the AA cradle but it didnt offer any left to right adjustability and i needed the engine offset to the drivers side 1 " on my YJ b/c i'm running a D300 and needed tranny pan clearance. also u cant get the oil pan off with the AA cradle.i bought a complete wiring harness from howell and got a fuel pump, filter and new PROM chip for the factory computer. it was basically a plug and play affair with only 3 wires needing to be spliced in to power the harness. their harness also included the plug to control the 700r4 and a VSS for the D300. i used headman headers for a CJ7 and i ceramic coated them and other than the ball joint collectors leaking i am happy with them. the howell kit also included a bung to weld in for the O2 sensor and several new relays.i was running the stock camaro fan but the water pump pully kept hitting it so i switched to a derale(?) from autozone but it doesnt work near as good. i am adding A/C to the jeep this winter and when i do i plan to add an alum. radiator and flex-a-lite dual puller fans. i dont really have a problem now as long as i dont sit on a rock giving it hell for more than 20-30 min at a time. on my gauges i went with a custom dash from BTF with full auto meter gauges

mbryson

10-04-2005, 10:43 AM

......... i dont really have a problem now as long as i dont sit on a rock giving it hell for more than 20-30 min at a time. ............

For real? I'm kinda a try it 1-4 times guy and move on...........keep everybody on the trail moving and try not to be 'that guy'.

I cut the rubber portion of my original line (pressure side) off...I then cut off most of hte metal line on the pump side, leaving about a 4" section....went down to NAPA and had the guy there crimp on a new hose between the two metal ends. Almost as good as factory.

I was going to do that, but the stock V1500 hose kinda got 'smooshed' at some point before it got in the Jeep item. I've got a suggestion on a '94 S10 Blazer hose that a guy put a Chev 5300 in a YJ with.

wlsmoku

10-04-2005, 10:52 AM

on my 99 vortec i am using a fuel pump for a 89 f150 with a 351w. this is a frame rail mounted pump and works well for me.

x2 except my vortec is from a 2003

Fl-Krawler

10-04-2005, 10:56 AM

well where i mostly wheel(alpha pit in florida) all the obstacles arent on the trail they are off to the side.i do practice the 3 try and move on rule but at the alpha pit the limerock is usually slick and needs to be dried out with some good ole wheelspeed to get the traction needed for the climb. also alot of the obstacles are long and can take you 30 min or more to negotiate even with no real trouble trying to get through them...ok sorry for the hi-jack...now back on topic

Fl-Krawler

10-04-2005, 11:02 AM

pwr steering hoses on a 84 monte carlo will work perfectly with a cj or Yj steering box

bigdaddylee82

10-04-2005, 11:36 AM

Here are the engine's specs.
LT-4 bored and stroked to 383, H.O.T. cam, Callies 4340 crank, Manley 4340 H-beam rods, Childs & Albert zero-gap rings, SRP 11:1 pistons, Crane 1.6 roller rockers, CNC ported, polished, and port matched, balanced, blueprinted, port matched and ported LT-4 exhaust manifolds. Custom fabricated setup for a crank driven fan from a Suburban. Dual 2.5" exhaust w/Random cats and DynoMax bullet race mufflers (tight fit w/the 4-link setup). Street and Performance wiring harness. MAP setup off earlier LT-1 with custom chip from the Turbo Shop.

How did you get the mechanical fan to work on the LT-1/4 and do you have any pictures

nobody20

10-04-2005, 11:55 AM

How did you get the mechanical fan to work on the LT-1/4 and do you have any pictures

I am the JB Conversions prototype. Go here
http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/aer-flo/index.html

It works great. Pushes a bunch of air and with the BeCool radiator it doesn't get hot.

mbryson

10-06-2005, 08:48 PM

Final update on the power steering hose: I checked out the S10 pickup version which would work, but I found an almost PERFECT one. From an '87 XJ 4.0L. Autozone part # 71395. It's about 1/2-1" long but will probably be great to account for the motor rock. :D

tybeck

10-16-2005, 02:26 PM

I'm running the 4.3L. I have a 95 which is the odd engine. 96 and Later engines use the newer style injection. Mine has a single regulator and the spider injectors. At the time I did the swap there were no wiring harnesses, or computers available for the newer style that has 10 more hp, and a better set up. If I were to do it now I'd get a 96 or newer block. Don't get me wrong I'm extremely happy with my 4.3L, it has plenty of grunt even for 35-36" tires, I'm in less danger of grenading xfercases, tranny's, drive shafts ect. than if I went with the 350. I also moved the engine as far forward as I could and am running a black magic electic fan with absolutely no cooling problems. This gives me a decent sized rear drive shaft even with the 700r4. A 350 has more problems cooling, drive shaft lengths, and more torque to break shit. My vehicle also has a near perfect weight distribution front to back. It's all about what you want I guess. I'm perfectly happy with the 4.3L, I'd also be happy with the 5.7, or the 8.0L viper engine, Dan McKeag (a local guy here) swapped in his TJ a few years back.

Ben
I'm pretty new to the jeep world and i have 76' CJ5. I just bought a 2001 4.3 out of a totalled blazer. The motor comes with everything, the water pump, alt, comp, wireharness, and the guy is also goin to cut up the fuel tank so i can get the fuel pump and everything from it. Like i said i haven't the slightest idea what im doing with all of this, i'm pretty smart when it comes to these mechanical things, but i would appreciated any info you can give me on the swap, thanks.