Travelall d60. What to expect?

[Munchies]

Have the chance to get a 74 t'all with 392 and d60. Its the 5 lug version, anyone know the WMS measurements? And what spline count should I expect. How strong is this particular d60?

[Old Scout]

What to expect
It's called a D60-2. It all D44 stuff from the pumpkin out.

[Munchies]

It's called a D60-2. It all D44 stuff from the pumpkin out.

What are the aftermarket shafts like? Can I get regular d60 shafts for it? This could pose a problem in selecting a locker because I would have to get new shafts off the bat which I dont have $$ for. Or run the stock shafts but buy another locker when I upgrade shafts. Ugh!

[robselina]

30 spline D60 lockers work fine in them, they're just not particularly desirable since they're D44 strength (due to the semi-float 30 spine axles) and D60 clearance...worst of both worlds....

I'm running one but I always intended to slap some superior axle shafts in it....

[Munchies]

30 spline D60 lockers work fine in them, they're just not particularly desirable since they're D44 strength (due to the semi-float 30 spine axles) and D60 clearance...worst of both worlds....

I'm running one but I always intended to slap some superior axle shafts in it....

What I mean is, since its d44 strength and I plan on ~38's with a locker I am pretty sure itl snap. So I would have to get new shafts then, AND a new locker for the new shafts, I think anyhow. With new shafts can I make it a FF?

[ChiScouter]

What I mean is, since its d44 strength and I plan on ~38's with a locker I am pretty sure itl snap. So I would have to get new shafts then, AND a new locker for the new shafts, I think anyhow. With new shafts can I make it a FF?

If you spend enough you can make it FF, steer, float, or fly

[Munchies]

If you spend enough

Just what I hate hearing. Do the big D60 shafts work in this axle? I want to do this fast and cheap and I am going to part this t-all anyhow, and it'd be nice to finally get my d60.

Basically what will it take to 'make it REAL' d60 strength wise. If you had it lying around, had 38's and a locker, what would you do to it?

[ihojeff]

Upgrade to 35 spline shafts and matching locker. Still semifloat but plenty strong in my opinion.

[Rock Tractor]

Upgrade to 35 spline shafts and matching locker. Still semifloat but plenty strong in my opinion.
Yup.

[Munchies]

Upgrade to 35 spline shafts and matching locker. Still semifloat but plenty strong in my opinion.


Who carries shafts in stock for this particular d60? Ones that are damn tough?

Jeff any manifold update?

[ihojeff]

I can custom order you shafts. With shipping they usually cost under $400 for the pair. Can also hook you up with a locker. PM if interested.

Talked with Mike this evening. Supposedly the manifold molds are on schedule which means we'll see the first three prototypes end of the month. Let's just say I'm not holding my breath as shit like this usually takes longer than anticipated.

My all terrain welding carts are ready for pick up which means they should be ready to sell by the end of the month if anyone gives a shit.

Jeff

[Eagle-Mark]

Yeah yeah yeah welding carts!

Keep us informed on the intakes! :D

[Old Scout]

Upgrade to 35 spline shafts and matching locker. Still semifloat but plenty strong in my opinion.
But it will have whimpy ass wheel bearings with the small set 10 ends.

It's better to just build a SF60 with set 20 ends.

[Munchies]

But it will have whimpy ass wheel bearings with the small set 10 ends.

It's better to just build a SF60 with set 20 ends.

Am building a d44 now, and have a bunghole load of bearings I got for really cheap, so I have enough for the d60 now as well, so should I use the set10's or... Can I upgrade the bearings?

[Mechanos]

Am building a d44 now, and have a bunghole load of bearings I got for really cheap, so I have enough for the d60 now as well, so should I use the set10's or... Can I upgrade the bearings?
You can't upgrade the Set 10's to Set 20's in the housing as it sits. You would have to cut the ends off the housing, buy some big bearing (Set 20) ends, jig them up and weld them on. Then you could run the bigger shafts and the Set 20's.

[ihojeff]

As OS stated it is better going to Set20 bearings and ends. I have an alignment jig for doing this as well.

[RustoleumWhite]

Run it as it is.

Get a 30-spline locker for it and run it.


Later upgrade the shafts to 35-spline and get new 35-spline side gears for the locker. But in stock form it will proably last quite a while depending on how fast you get to wheeling with the "big" tires.


As for the bearing, yes, Set20 is better than Set10, but Set10 aren't that bad. Scoutillac ran Set10's and 35-spline shafts in a hybrid rear D60 (D44 end into a D60 housing, the old school way of doing it) for years... mater of fact I think he is still running the same rear axle in his new buggy. Never had a bearing failure and flogged the PISS out of that thing.


If you have it. Use it. If you want to build one with Set20's, then get a free junck-yard FF housing, wack then ends off and weld on aftermarket Set20 ends and order shafts. The try to break it.

Sell the D60-2 housing to someone else and recoope some of your $$.

[Munchies]

So there is now real advantage to it over my d44 now. Hmm. Oh well. Who wants a d60-2?!

[RustoleumWhite]

So there is now real advantage to it over my d44 now. Hmm. Oh well. Who wants a d60-2?!
Sure there is:

Its wider than a stock SII D44, but not quite full width.

You can add bigger parts to it with out building a new axle.

For $400 in shafts and a locker you can have a 35-spline, 1.5" 63" wide D60. Try BUILDING one any cheaper (SF or FF). About the only cheaper thing is a C&C 14b... I even if you started with a FFD60 you got for free you still need to bore the sprindles, and then is the width what you want.

So you have set-10 bearings... is that REALLY a big deal?? How many SII D44 bearings have you burned out?

[Munchies]

Sure there is:

Its wider than a stock SII D44, but not quite full width.

You can add bigger parts to it with out building a new axle.

For $400 in shafts and a locker you can have a 35-spline, 1.5" 63" wide D60. Try BUILDING one any cheaper (SF or FF). About the only cheaper thing is a C&C 14b... I even if you started with a FFD60 you got for free you still need to bore the sprindles, and then is the width what you want.

So you have set-10 bearings... is that REALLY a big deal?? How many SII D44 bearings have you burned out?

Good points. No burnt bearings. I dont like width. Narrower the better :)
So after I buy shafts it will be damn tough eh? I want to get an elocker, but i dont know if they ahve removable side plates so i can upgrade shafts later.

[RustoleumWhite]

So after I buy shafts it will be damn tough eh?

for the cost, it should be... you *do* still have thinner/weaker tubes, and you *do* still have set-10's, but for 99% of the recrational wheelers out there, that would probably be fine... again, for the limited money you would have invested in it.

I want to get an elocker, but i dont know if they ahve removable side plates so i can upgrade shafts later.

I'd assume that it did, but a simple phone call to yoru favorite supplier would probably answer that.



Heck, call Randy's Ring and Pinion, ask for "Gus", also known as T1H5 TA3 on this board... give him a reseach progect :D

He could also probably get you a pretty good deal on one.


Tell him "Mark" sent him your way...

[Old Scout]

So you have set-10 bearings... is that REALLY a big deal?? How many SII D44 bearings have you burned out?
Tons more meat in the bearing with a 1.31 shaft and not a 1.5" shaft running thru it!

[RustoleumWhite]

Tons more meat in the bearing with a 1.31 shaft and not a 1.5" shaft running thru it!
I won't argue that.



Just trying to let him see that if budget is important, he can save a few $$ by just running what he has. You can always build something bigger and better later.


Although I do also subscribe the "build it once" train of tought, but I also understand (and have too) build to my avaliable budget.

[Old Scout]

I won't argue that.



Just trying to let him see that if budget is important, he can save a few $$ by just running what he has. You can always build something bigger and better later.


Although I do also subscribe the "build it once" train of tought, but I also understand (and have too) build to my avaliable budget.
The new housing ends aren't exepensive or hard to come by:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSR%2D7750&N=310481+4294847526&autoview=sku

[RustoleumWhite]

The new housing ends aren't exepensive or hard to come by:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSR%2D7750&N=310481+4294847526&autoview=sku
Nope, but then you still have to have someone that knows what they are doing align and weld them one.


Not impossible, and not *that* expencive... it can be had for between a case of beer and $400....


Around here I see it about $200, with $100-$150 being a "buddy deal" for someone with experiance and the equpment (i.e. has done more than 1 or 2 and has the proper pucks and alignment bar)

So: $80 for the ends, $150 for the work, figure the housing for free.... $230 that *could* have been spent elswere if one wanted too.

Would have have a better rear makign it your self, yes. Could you sell the D60-2 for that $200 or so... probably... but with the D60-2 you can piece it together as you have the $$ (gears and a locker now, shafts and new side gears later). Plus he aleady has all the brakes on his current axle, if he built one he's have to figure out brakes as well (not hard, but more $$ right now).








and yes, I'm a little bored today :flipoff2:

[Munchies]

So there is now real advantage to it over my d44 now. Hmm. Oh well. Who wants a d60-2?!

Another ? for rustoleum. I cant run real d60 width(thickness) shafts, just 35 spline d44 size shafts? I think Ill break it like all the d44 carcass's lying round here.

[Munchies]

Nope, but then you still have to have someone that knows what they are doing align and weld them one.


Not impossible, and not *that* expencive... it can be had for between a case of beer and $400....


Around here I see it about $200, with $100-$150 being a "buddy deal" for someone with experiance and the equpment (i.e. has done more than 1 or 2 and has the proper pucks and alignment bar)

So: $80 for the ends, $150 for the work, figure the housing for free.... $230 that *could* have been spent elswere if one wanted too.

Would have have a better rear makign it your self, yes. Could you sell the D60-2 for that $200 or so... probably... but with the D60-2 you can piece it together as you have the $$ (gears and a locker now, shafts and new side gears later). Plus he aleady has all the brakes on his current axle, if he built one he's have to figure out brakes as well (not hard, but more $$ right now).








and yes, I'm a little bored today :flipoff2:

And it sounds like the elocker side gears can't be purchased seperatly, unless someone has found something else out. I think I will sell that shit, buy a crane d60 center section and just build a beef ass d60 instead of peacemealing this thing together to make it stronger.