What's the best (cheapest) way to get disk brakes on a 14 bolt?
I also need the e-brake to work too.

Weld on caliper brackets from your favorite racing supplier. Caddy, Tornado, Vette, newer truck, rear calipers from your favorite junk yard.

Originally posted by Outlaw99TJ
Weld on caliper brackets from your favorite racing supplier. Caddy, Tornado, Vette, newer truck, rear calipers from your favorite junk yard.

Who carries these? What setups have the ebrake built in?

Originally posted by vova


Who carries these? What setups have the ebrake built in?

why dont you ask Me first I can get you all the Stuff

Adam,

The expensive part is going to be the e-brake calipers.

Hey Lucky Pierre:flipoff2: You show up with 2 1980 Ford 3/4 ton 44 rotors and we are ready to go. I have the e-brake calipers, caliper supports, and the welder to put them on.

for you guys that have all the stuff to do this how much would you charge for it...I dont want an e-brake??? Thanks

I did my rear disk on my 70 for under $150 I used calipers from AutoZone and new pads. New rotors and 1/2 ton front caliper mounts off of a waggy front. Cut a slot in the caliper mount and welded it on.
Looks factory now. I will get Jesse's e-brake later on in life.

I got a set of bolt on brackets from Misfit on coloradok5.com
They were $65 shipped to my door. Rotors were $35 from autozone (3/4 ton chevy). For calipers you can use 78-79 Caddy Eldo calipers. Get them from a J/Y because you will need all the brackets.

Rockslut and I did the same set up except that he used a D70 and I used a Dually 14 bolt.

Here is a pic:
http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v0/8/5/3/31180503eOvEukFItF_ph

Rotors: 75 Chevy 3/4 ton
Calipers: 74 Waggy..although there are a huge numer that will work. This one doesn't have the e-brake provisions (The Atlas does;) )
Brackets: Were from a 1/2 ton but you can use brackets from AA MFG (http://www.aa-mfg.com)

Real simple

Originally posted by Scout Dude
Rockslut and I did the same set up except that he used a D70 and I used a Dually 14 bolt.

Here is a pic:
http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v0/8/5/3/31180503eOvEukFItF_ph

Rotors: 75 Chevy 3/4 ton
Calipers: 74 Waggy..although there are a huge numer that will work. This one doesn't have the e-brake provisions (The Atlas does;) )
Brackets: Were from a 1/2 ton but you can use brackets from AA MFG (http://www.aa-mfg.com)

Real simple

So is the PN from AA MFG AA-049-A...if so then they're only $6 I think I will go that way...hmmm

Originally posted by Scout Dude
Rockslut and I did the same set up except that he used a D70 and I used a Dually 14 bolt.

Here is a pic:
http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v0/8/5/3/31180503eOvEukFItF_ph

Rotors: 75 Chevy 3/4 ton
Calipers: 74 Waggy..although there are a huge numer that will work. This one doesn't have the e-brake provisions (The Atlas does;) )
Brackets: Were from a 1/2 ton but you can use brackets from AA MFG (http://www.aa-mfg.com)

Real simple

So you use all the bearings from the 3/4 ton rotors? What do you bolt the axle to, cause it bolts to the drum but when you swap it out whats it supposed to go into? Wish I would have known just had to reaplce all the hardware and rums onmy 14 bolt:mad: Would have been a good time to swap to disks.

You don't use the front end hub just the disk. When you take off the drums on the rear you then press the studs out and you are left with a rear drum and a rear hub. You then reuse the rear hub but you put the new front rotor onto that old hub using the wheel studs. The hub is the part that the axle bolts to and it also contains the bearings. Hopefully that was a clear explanation! Later

Thanks for clearing it up for me. I wassnt sure how it all fit togehter. Sounds pretty easy now.Except for getting the studs out.

With a press its easy. However I have heard that a BFH and a brass drift works to get em out as well. Haven't ever tried it myself though. Use at your own risk. Later

I used part# aa-049-a (http://www.aa-mfg.com/catalog/index.html) they were $14. pics (http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/scottsbent70/lst?.dir=/14+bolt&.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/scottsbent70/lst%3f.dir=/14%2bbolt%26.src=ph%26.view=t) :flipoff2: I know its not pretty.

I would just give shaker a call if you are looking for the easiest route www.shakerbuilt.com

Originally posted by bent70
I used part# aa-049-a (http://www.aa-mfg.com/catalog/index.html) they were $14. pics (http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/scottsbent70/lst?.dir=/14+bolt&.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/scottsbent70/lst%3f.dir=/14%2bbolt%26.src=ph%26.view=t) :flipoff2: I know its not pretty.

It looks like you aded to them to make them longer...did you??? And what calipers did you use...thanks

yea, they were a little short
I used 44 calipers of a 76' chevy

Bent 70,

What did you do tho sahve the 14 bolt? Did you just use a big ass grinder and smooth it out? How much did you take off and how did you modift the cover:question: Just curious cause I'm thinking about doing it to mine.

With a 4in. grinder and a shit load of spare time:D
Idon't no exactly how much I took off, but the lip is gone and flush with the rest of the housing plus a little extra. I haven't instaled the axle yet, but for the cover I took a 1/4in. extra off it past being flush with the housing to prevent peel back. I think it will work fine and for more assurence I plan on using a little extra rtv in that area.

How thick of a plate did you use for the bottom?
How much did you take off the ring gear?

Originally posted by clc900
How thick of a plate did you use for the bottom?
How much did you take off the ring gear?

From what he described he didn't shave it to the point of needing to use plate...he just took off the lip and then a little bit more...no need to shave a ring gear when youre only doing this:rolleyes:

yea what he said, but I did have to plate my rc-60 a little.:smokin:

hey,

what's the hole to hole distance on aa-049-a ?

The ***-C is listed a 7-1/16 center to center.

I think the only difference between the a, b, and c is the shape of the "weld on" area.

MJ:)

Shakers kit for the disc brake brackets is $100.00.

Here are a couple of sites:
http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/tsm/
http://www.my-gmc.com/rear.htm
http://www.my-gmc.com/Harrison%20Brakes/album1.html

HTH
Scott

Originally posted by The Rockslut
I did my rear disk on my 70 for under $150 I used calipers from AutoZone and new pads. New rotors and 1/2 ton front caliper mounts off of a waggy front. Cut a slot in the caliper mount and welded it on.
Looks factory now. I will get Jesse's e-brake later on in life.

I'm thinking about doing the disks on my 70 and was wondering if the 3/4 ton rotor has to be drilled out for the bigger 70 lugs? Any other tips I sould know about?

If you were useing ford 3/4 ton roters you would but I dont think you do with chevy 3/4. I think.:idea:

you can 76 78 cadi eldro brks form kragens allong with the rotors 3/4 ton chevyk series part#5014rgs rotors the calipars wont come with the e brake blackbirdscustomtrucks.com and the braketts can be gotten eny were else jkw offroads this so far has ben the cheppiest way i found 73 rotors x2 69x2 disc brake braket 50 and 45for e brake eny were was charge 415$hole set ijust dont rember the link it here somewere on pirate:flipoff2:

you :

I'm sure this would have been very helpful 252,288,000 seconds ago.:shaking: