I am trying to remove the carrier from my 14 bolt axle to cut 2.5" off the bottom.
I have everything out but the carrier. I have no case spreader.

We tried using two pry bars and hammering on them and it is really tight in there (not rusted or anything, axle is only 6 months old). So what is the best way for me to get this out? Should I mark, and then turn the adjustment things on the sides to make it come out easy? Or just pry harder and use bad language?


Thanks,
Phil
I can't believe I am cutting up a brand new axle...
Did this make anyone else nervous? ;)

I had a stubborn 60 that finally popped out easily when I stuffed a rag in and spun the pinion. Id never needed to try that before, but it worked.

I guess I could try that - just have to bolt the pinion back in.

What do you guys think of the backing the adjuster sleeves off idea?

Thanks,

Phil

just and idea but maybe try and fill the pumkin with some ice and let it sit for a while. maybe you will get lucky and the carrier will shrink due to the coldness, then heat the housing a little if yah have to, prolly just a stupid idea but hey yah never know

Just back the adjusters off and lift it out by hand. :D

Reset the gears, but if you are shaving it you will have to do that anyway.

I just did mine yesterday. :beer:

The rag trick worked well on my dana 70 to get it to start comming out then we pryed it the rest of the way out.

It's not a dana- you're not going to just "pop it out" without backing off the adjusters. Back 'em out and remove the carrier.

Originally posted by clc900
Just back the adjusters off and lift it out by hand. :D

Reset the gears, but if you are shaving it you will have to do that anyway.

I just did mine yesterday. :beer:

Why would I have to re-set the gears? If I don't change the adjusters I don't have to re-set the gears do I?

Update: Now I am fawked :( I stuffed the rag in there and it lifted one side about 1/2" The other side would not lift withe crow bars, hammers and another creative method. I think with one side lifted it is binding. Also the rag is now stuck in there...


I think I have had enough for now. Later I will pull the pinion back out and try to remove the rag. Then I will try to beat the lifted side back down and maybe back off the adjusters.

Originally posted by Aggro
It's not a dana- you're not going to just "pop it out" without backing off the adjusters. Back 'em out and remove the carrier.

Ok, I will do that. Now if I scribe marks on them, and count the turns, then return it to the way it was, I shouldn't have to re-set the gears should I?

Thanks a lot guys.

Phil

One otherquestion, are they right hand thread? Both of them?

Thanks,
Phil

just turn both adjusters one turn out, the carrier will pop out then. mark em before you start to get back to the starting point.
you may have to play a bit to get it in right cause the housing may shift a tad when you weld on it

Originally posted by mytzlflick
just turn both adjusters one turn out, the carrier will pop out then. mark em before you start to get back to the starting point.
you may have to play a bit to get it in right cause the housing may shift a tad when you weld on it

Thanks I will do that. They are both standard right hand thread?

For the welding, I am having a local shop TIG weld it. How hot do you guys think the housing should be before welding? Do you heat the plate too?

I don't know how much cast to steel experience they have.

Thanks again,
Phil

Originally posted by 1TONTJ



Update: Now I am fawked :( I stuffed the rag in there and it lifted one side about 1/2" The other side would not lift withe crow bars, hammers and another creative method. I think with one side lifted it is binding. Also the rag is now stuck in there...


I think I have had enough for now. Later I will pull the pinion back out and try to remove the rag. Then I will try to beat the lifted side back down and maybe back off the adjusters.

Dont be scared. :( Just back the adjusters out and take the carrier out. It will save you a headache and busted up bloody knuckles. If you are not shaving the ring gear then mark the adjusters and put it all back together.

I was panning on shaving the ring gear a 1/2" or so (not much). Does that mean the gears must be re-set?

Thanks,
Phil

All the adjusters do is set backlash and a bit of preload on the bearings. Recheck the BL with a dial indicator to be on the safe side. Or a calibrated hand :D

Rick

On my brothers C14 we did EVERYTHING trying to pry it out... We even attached straps to the carrier and lifted the axle by the carrier with a cherry picker and nothing...

Frustrated we gave up. Took it to a shop with a case spreader and they backed the adjusting nuts off and pulled it out with one hand...we felt stupid.

Anyway, Get you a dail indicator, they range in price from hundreds to 50 bucks... well worth it either way if your gonna be foolin with axle stuff. As long as you dont take pinion apart on anything this and maybe a spring load tester deal is all ya need to remove thirds, instal lockers, weld spiders, etc...

Originally posted by TyTy

they range in price from hundreds to 50 bucks...


id like to know where to get a dial indicator for 50 bucks. even my tight-a$$ would prolly pay that for one...

Originally posted by 1TONTJ


Thanks I will do that. They are both standard right hand thread?

For the welding, I am having a local shop TIG weld it. How hot do you guys think the housing should be before welding? Do you heat the plate too?

I don't know how much cast to steel experience they have.

Thanks again,
Phil

how about none!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Originally posted by mudlite


how about none!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WTF are you talking about?

You are the KING of cryptic posts! :flipoff2:

Phil

I've done ~5 C14 Detroits, all I've ever done is mark the adjusters, count turns, then put it back the way it was. No problems.

Pete