How do I see if it is really the temp sensor?

Says refer to Test 14 continuity procedure or something.

94 D90. I believe this to be the issue with the CEL.

Ron

PS anyone have one to sell me?

1: measure resistance at several different temperatures. There is a response chart somewhere on the 'net.

2: Cconfirm continuity between the connector and corresponding terminals at ECU.

3: Chances are it's fried. The coolant temp sensors seem to go bad-I suspect it is the direct contct with the coolant.

Would you like me to send you a used one to try? :grinpimp:

PT

edit: put the damned thing on a testbook, it should be immediately obvious if the sensor is bad. This is one of the few things the 14-CUx will tell you. :flipoff2:

please send me a used one.
I pmed you.

Testbook, that would require me asking one of the techs.

Heck, my "14" was an obviously broken connector at the coolant temp sensor
..... and PT was nice enough to have a replacement plastic bit for me :)

KAA

It appears outwardly to be in one piece and not broken. Connector looks good, clean etc., but the code is hard in that it comes on right away even after I unplug the battery to reset. It is also the only code that has stayed.

Truck will idle normally when cold but when hot will go to 2000 rpm.

Swapped ECUs no improvement.

All points to a bad sensor.

Hey Ron, here's the procedure

http://www.rangie.com/files/167_385.jpg

http://www.rangie.com/articles_topic.php?id=167&cat=6&subCat=26

Crap.

The new sensor did not fix it. I even swapped in a known good one from LWB #2 to be sure.

Now what? How exactly do I test continuity? I have read the instructions above but please spell it out before I let the smoke out.

Call me tomorrow, I'll try to walk you through it.

Peace,
PT

Crap.

The new sensor did not fix it. I even swapped in a known good one from LWB #2 to be sure.

Now what? How exactly do I test continuity? I have read the instructions above but please spell it out before I let the smoke out.

Thanks PT

Thanks to PT relaying wire color I figured it out. #1 injector connector and temp sensor connector were swapped. SPOT

Stupid Previous Owner Trick

Now to see if anything else makes the light come on after I start driving it.

EDIT:
It seems unhappy to be firing on all 8. Has thrown a 44 (Left O2) and 48 (stepper motor) now.

When it cools down I am pulling the #1 plug to take a look-see.

Ron:
Before fawkin' around too much with the IAC valve, set the base idle. The ECU is probably confused to have all eight running and it was probably compensating for the incorrect signal to the injector.

The O2 code might also be related.

Did these codes reappear immediately after clearing and restarting? Given the condition as received, the IAC valve might respond to mere cleaning.

Good luck-if you need me, I'll be in the shop again tomorrow (finishing work that should have been done today (that P38 is returning to Capistrano again tomorrow-maybe they like the Rover company here :flipoff2:). Sunday, I'll be prepping my truck and AFIRover's for Monday wheeling at Badlands (anybody wanna join us?)

Peace,
PT

Thanks PT,

I get a plate tomorrow. I think I am going to drive it on the interstate and around town for a few hours and see how it goes. It has been sitting for over a month with the ebay auction, 2 weeks for pick up and another bit to get the title and now plates.

I don't think it is ECU related as the ECU was disconnected a bunch and it is also new as of when I started fidigeting a week ago or so. I can swap back the original and see if 48 comes back.

The code 48 occurs after about 2-5minutes of idling. I dislike 48 as it is the code on LWB #2 which meant cam. Still have to get THAT done. The 44 appeared only after reving it after reconnecting the injector, that may be a non-issue, at least I can hope.

Not a huge deal now that the Code 14 is gone as it will pass inspection if it stays off for the minute or so for the emissions.

I swapped the #1 plug (broke wire in the process so I had to cut open the boot and then tape the boot shut again--order to magnecor on tues of course). It looked new, though it seemed to have fired at least a couple times. I cleaned the stepper and will do the same to the throttle body in the am (dark out now). No help, code came back. After I run out of ideas, at my old work I will have them check compression on #1. I have a 4.6 block here if need be . . . :flipoff2:

Oxygen sensor codes can be a myriad of actual issues. First off, it is fairly easy to measure the heater resistance and this will instantly rule if it is in fact a bad sensor.

My experiences have been that in all but the rarest of circumstances it is something other than the O2 sensor. For your sake, let's hope it's not something else. Oxygen sensors are relatively easy to replace and not expensive (in Land Rover parlance :flipoff2:)

PT